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jhines
Joined: 14 Mar 2007
Posts: 20
Location: Bella Vista, Arkansas
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 Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 8:55 am Post subject: Rib forms |
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Does anyone out there want to sell their old rib forms? I'm having a moment of lazyness I guess but I just thought I would ask.
John
www.johnsplane.com
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jhines
Joined: 14 Mar 2007
Posts: 20
Location: Bella Vista, Arkansas
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| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 1:24 pm Post subject: Re: Rib forms |
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Oops. I forgot to mention that I am building a 601XL.
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_________________
John Hines |
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wjones(at)brazoriainet.co
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| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:19 pm Post subject: Rib forms |
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Hi John ,most of the forms are made from 3/4" mdf .This is a very heavy
material and shipping would be expensive unless someone is within driving
distance .The cost is $20.00+ for a 4' X8' sheet .I am sure that some other
601XL builder would send you the full size profile .Then all that is
required is to spray glue the paper onto the MDF and cut around the profile.
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 5:01 pm Post subject: Rib forms |
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Printable CAD outlines for the rib templates can be found here:
http://www.ch601.org/builder%20resources.htm
-- Craig
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jkbrumpt(at)sa.chariot.ne
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:45 am Post subject: Rib forms |
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Can any one verify that the cad outlines for the ribs found on
ch601.org/builder are accurate
John
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zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 3:10 am Post subject: Rib forms |
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John, the only guarantee is that you print one off and measure it with a
steel ruler. This ensures that they print right and you are satisfied
with the accuracy. In addition, over time plans change, the 601XL has
been refined over the years; it has been harmonized with the 601XL LSA
model. This has created some inaccuracies with the cutting layouts.
Nevertheless, they are still useful in reducing errors and helping
others out.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
--
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 6:08 am Post subject: Re: Rib forms |
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| jkbrumpt(at)sa.chariot.ne wrote: | Can any one verify that the cad outlines for the ribs found on
ch601.org/builder are accurate
John
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I measured all of mine directly on the MDF just for this reason. Yes, it's time consuming, but considering you have to make a backer (which will really just be the form for the other wing) it's not too bad. Just lay it out on one, cut it, then use the centering holes and bolt it to a blank MDF and trace the other. Once they're cut out bolt them together and put them in the vise and smooth out the highspots with a file, be sure to keep the file flat on the angled edge. Then router the edges. Also, when you router, try to find a slightly larger bearing for the router bit. The other option I guess is affix some sort of laminate on the angled cut to push the router out 1mm. The fact that you're routering a 10 degree angle will actually cut the form down in size about 1mm all around (making it 2mm undersized). You want the bearing to be slightly larger so that it effectively follows the profile of a 90 degree angle rather than an 80 degree profile. When the standard bearing finally bottoms out on the 80 degree angle it's actually cutting off a little more than what you layed it out for. MDF is great stuff to work with though for forms. Strong and yet easy to cut and router for a 1/8" radius, and no need to add an aluminum reinforcing plate, it's plenty strong and a lot more accurate than plywood. I suspect the real reason the aluminum is added to the plywood is because no matter how careful you are cutting the plywood, it'll always have a ragged edge, not so much for the strength. The MDF has no ragged edge and when the form and the backer are clamped in the vise it's plenty strong. Use the center holes for clamping bolts as well as put it in the vise and more clamps all around. Maybe even sandwich the whole thing in the vise with a couple 2x4s lengthwise for extra support. Works great. Figure 2 hours to make a pair of forms and another hour and a half making the rib. 2 weekends and you're done. Use a Dremel tool with a small drum sander to make the flute recesses in the form. Once you have the blank clamped in the vise, put a small crimp at each flute recesses (you'll only be able to put a small one, don't crack the metal) tap the flange over 30 degrees with a rubber mallet, crimp more, tap another 30 degrees, crimp more and tap it flat. Once you're flat, get a piece of oak about 1/2" by and inch, round it on the grinder to have a reasonable flute profile and then place it in the flutes and tap those guys and little more, then back to the rubber mallet for another tap down flat, then the flutes again, then a final tap down flat with the rubber mallet. When it comes out of the form it shoud be pretty damn flat with hardly any banana shape. Lay the rib down on the table with the flat side down and push the high spots down and watch which flutes move the most, then crimp them a bit. It should lay perfectly flat once you've tweaked them. If a flute needs to be opened a bit for some reason, use the hand seemer to coax it open a bit, shouldn't take much.
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lnk(at)iowatelecom.net
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:01 am Post subject: Rib forms |
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I downloaded the AutoCAD versions and overlaid them on mine done in another
CAD system using the 4/04 edition and found them essentially exact. That
was a real confidence builder in my own work.
Larry Kilburg
601 XL, Eastern Iowa
[quote] --
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