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Flap Wiring

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Jaybannist(at)cs.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 3:55 pm Post subject: Flap Wiring

I am wiring the flap motor for my XL and encountered a problem.  The two limit switches have six connect points.  Two are the "COM" points in top.  No problem.  The "NO" & "NC" connectors are on the ends of the limit switches, two facing up and two facing down.  All these connecting points have VERY tiny screws and lockwashers.  The schematic in the drawings calls for connections to the "NC" points, which (naturally) are facing down.  One would have to use a tiny, right angle screwdriver to work the screws because the actuator rod and screw would be in the way of a straight screwdriver; and a mirror to see what you are doing.  Looked virtually impossible to me. I asked Roger at ZAC how to do this and his solution was to remove the whole flap actuator to wire it!  HUH?



Since the "NO" contacts are facing up, I decided to redo the schematic to use those instead of the "NC" contacts.  If anyone is interested, I can send my revised schematic.



Hint: Wire the flap limit switches before the side skin is riveted in place. Or use the revised schematic.



Jay in Dallas

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dredmoody(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:49 pm Post subject: Flap Wiring

Or use a Ultra Fine Point Sharpie to mark their  positions on the suuport rod, loosen the set screws on the switches,  rotate them on the rod to allow better access to the screws, do  the connections, then reposition the switches on the rod. Much easier than  working upside down or blindly by feel.

  

 Dred

 [quote]   ---

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craig(at)craigandjean.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 5:00 pm Post subject: Flap Wiring

Actually for each block you can leave the block in place  and just unscrew the two screws holding the microswitch from it. That way  you don't loose the adjustment. But you will probably have to adjust the limits  anyway when you test the whole setup.

  

 -- Craig

[quote] [b]

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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 6:08 pm Post subject: Flap Wiring

Hi Jay,



I just dealt with that whole issue a couple of weeks ago, so it is 

reasonably fresh in my mind.



First, let me say the way I connected the wires was to crimp some 

small "o" terminals onto the wires and then completely remove the 

little screws and replace them with the "o" captured.



Second, I don't know if you can get the same function of the circuit 

using the Normally Open connections on these switches instead of the 

Normally Closed positions.  The idea is to disconnect the motor 

circuit when the limit is reached so the motor will stop before 

putting too much stress on the flap linkage and nearby parts.  This 

works by using the Normally Closed position on the switch so it 

becomes an Open circuit when the limit is reached.  I am curious how 

you can get the same function using the Normally Open contacts.



Now for the good part -- You need to adjust the position of the limit 

switches to get the proper movement of your flaps.  There is a little 

set screw holding the switch in place on the grooved bar.   You can 

also loosen the set screws and completely remove the switches.  This 

makes connecting the wiring harness a lot easier.  Then you can 

replace the switches and adjust their final position before 

tightening the set screws again.



When my assembly arrived there was some kind of goup on the set 

screws.  I don't know what this was or if it is really necessary.  I 

would be delighted to hear from anyone if this is necessary and what 

kind of stuff to use.  I presume it is some kind of Locktite or paint 

or something else to prevent the screw from moving.



Good luck,



Paul

XL fuselage

At 03:54 PM 3/14/2007, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  



I am wiring the flap motor for my XL and encountered a problem.  The 

two limit switches have six connect points.  Two are the "COM" 

points in top.  No problem.  The "NO" & "NC" connectors are on the 

ends of the limit switches, two facing up and two facing down.  All 

these connecting points have VERY tiny screws and lockwashers.  The 

schematic in the drawings calls for connections to the "NC" points, 

which (naturally) are facing down.  One would have to use a tiny, 

right angle screwdriver to work the screws because the actuator rod 

and screw would be in the way of a straight screwdriver; and a 

mirror to see what you are doing.  Looked virtually impossible to 

me. I asked Roger at ZAC how to do this and his solution was to 

remove the whole flap actuator to wire it!  HUH?



Since the "NO" contacts are facing up, I decided to redo the 

schematic to use those instead of the "NC" contacts.  If anyone is 

interested, I can send my revised schematic.



Hint: Wire the flap limit switches before the side skin is riveted 

in place. Or use the revised schematic.



Jay in Dallas

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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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