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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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 Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:46 am Post subject: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
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Dave and all-
By sheer coincidence I'm rigging the aileron cables in the c-section of
my HDS at the moment. If my lightening holes were 30mm forward, the cables
would just contact rib at the rear of the hole. Don't know if the HDS
clearance is proportional to the XL.
Two things that have me scratching my head as I progress-
One, I'm using a hybrid combination of kit parts and ACS turnbuckles.
The only kit parts are the .040 plates and AN hardware connecting the cables
to the bellcranks. I just hand tightened the castle nuts and installed the
cotter pins. I figured the plates should be able to move freely so you
didn't have any binding. Should I have torqued the nuts?
Two, it really bothers me that the torque tube can move fore and aft. I
can move it aft and get the rear of the tube to contact the cattycorner
cross brace and jam. The stop collar on the front of the tube is laid out
per the plans, but comes no where near the front bearing where it could
prevent this fore and aft movement. I suppose the control cables, once
tensioned, will prevent movement. Thoughts?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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| Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:44 am Post subject: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
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Bill,
Obviously, you don't have your elevator cables in yet and their tension
will put the torque tube rearward until
the bearing 6V4-9 is engaged up front. If you've got contact at some
rear point on the torque tube, I'd recommend
you make the bearing just a little thicker to prevent that or raise the
diagonal channel a bit at the rear.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Bill Naumuk wrote:
[quote]
Dave and all-
By sheer coincidence I'm rigging the aileron cables in the
c-section of my HDS at the moment. If my lightening holes were 30mm
forward, the cables would just contact rib at the rear of the hole.
Don't know if the HDS clearance is proportional to the XL.
Two things that have me scratching my head as I progress-
One, I'm using a hybrid combination of kit parts and ACS
turnbuckles. The only kit parts are the .040 plates and AN hardware
connecting the cables to the bellcranks. I just hand tightened the
castle nuts and installed the cotter pins. I figured the plates should
be able to move freely so you didn't have any binding. Should I have
torqued the nuts?
Two, it really bothers me that the torque tube can move fore and
aft. I can move it aft and get the rear of the tube to contact the
cattycorner cross brace and jam. The stop collar on the front of the
tube is laid out per the plans, but comes no where near the front
bearing where it could prevent this fore and aft movement. I suppose
the control cables, once tensioned, will prevent movement. Thoughts?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
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David X
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 154
Location: Princeton, NJ, USA
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| Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:55 am Post subject: Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
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May not be related to your case, but when I took the top skin off of my 601XL wing, the aileron controls rubbed. They didn't rub when the skin was on. This makes it obvious that the skins are part of the support structure for the controls.
I clamped a long metal bar to the top middle of each rib and measured carefully to ensure proper position for each rib. The aileron controls didn't bind. They were tight, but there was enough clearance that it didn't worry me.
Don't know if this is applicable to your case.
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_________________
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE |
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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| Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 8:42 am Post subject: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
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Larry-
I just finished verifying the location and print dimensions of all the
components and everything's dead on.
There's another course of action. Move the stop collar back until it's
functional, contacting the front bearing and preventing the torque tube from
moving unduly aft. I'd have to raise the rear of the cattycorner brace too
far up for my liking to gain clearance. Seems like the easiest and most
mechanically sound fix.
Swaged my first Nico press using the $15 ACS tool. Took two tries. I'm
miking .340-.345 after the swage. I'm assuming .355 is a max and there's
nothing wrong with under??
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
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vozzen
Joined: 25 Aug 2006
Posts: 12
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| Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:26 am Post subject: Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
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I just finished the aileron cables on XL kit, thought I'd pass on some related suggestions:
Mount the wing first -- before drilling the aileron cable fairlead holes in the fuse sideskins. I found a VERY tight clearance (for the balance cable) between the edge of the rib lightening hole and the seat back. After marking the position of the wing on the fuse side, I transferred the position of the fwd lightening hole on the same skin, using spar and wing bottom as references. Apparently, ZAC has noted the problem, and modified the plans to add a flat nylon piece, flush against the seat back, to keep the cable from rubbing.
Likewise, I suggest waiting to drill the flap control tube hole until the wing is mounted. It's been said before.
Bill, the HDS cables are run different from the XL, but like Larry said, the elevator cables hold the torque tube back.
>AN hardware connecting the cables to the bellcranks. I just hand >tightened the castle nuts and installed the cotter pins. I figured the >plates should be able to move freely so you didn't have any binding. >Should I have torqued the nuts?
I'd say no, the cable shackles should be free to pivot.
>miking .340-.345 after the swage
same numbers I used.
I struggled with the cheap (bolt style) nico-crimper too long. I finished up with a borrowed "real" crimper, found it took about 1/10th the time. Live and learn....
tio Rico, XL/3300, Kansas City Slugworks West
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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| Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:47 pm Post subject: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
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Vozzen and all-
Still struggling with the cattycorner brace. Flamers can put out your
torches, my posts are just thinking out loud hoping I'll flush out a
solution. Haven't done anything drastic. One of Jeff Small's pictures shows
a possible solution. Still waiting to hear from him. All other HD/HDS
people, feel free to chime in.
I managed to get the aileron cables on and swaged with the ACS tool.
Quite a juggling act. Probably not as pretty as if I used one of the "Real"
tools, but it took 15 minutes at the bench grinder and a couple of dozen
smacks with a cold chisel to try and save the thimble from a bad swage. If
that was a bad swage, the good ones aren't coming apart! Needless to say,
the thimble was toast.
Two steps forward, one foot still in the air waiting to come down.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
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N601RT
Joined: 25 Feb 2006
Posts: 31
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:52 pm Post subject: Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
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Bill and others,
The purpose of the cattycorner brace is there to support the fairlead material that the torque tube and cables run through. I struggled with mounting the brace for a while. My solution was to use a short section of material with the same cross section as the cattycorner brace, flipped over, riveted inside the brace to add strength, which allowed cutting a notch in the brace. See attached photo.
The photo is taken from on top of my ELT which is mounted behind the right seat. (A corner of the ELT is visible.) The seat backs are out, but the right side bottom cushion is in place. The photo was taken while I was installing the pitch servo for my Trutrak Digiflight II. Also visible is the gray speckled Zolatone paint I used for the interior finish of my plane.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped, 692hrs, 814 landings
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