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Eric_Kallio
Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 149
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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 Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 1:36 pm Post subject: Screw removal |
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Well it was only a matter of time. I had a little assistance in installing the mounting screws for the fuel tank while I was off working on my thesis for grad school. 3 screws are stripped. Grit on the scrwedriver and my Proto screw removers have all failed to remove the screws. Any other methods out there that have worked for you? Got to get the wings out of the shop so I have room for the Fuse next week. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
40518 Finishing SB wings
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 2:00 pm Post subject: Screw removal |
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Try Sears Screw Remover. They have one with a tapered square bit.
You drill a hole, as indicated on the removal bit and it almost makes
a square opening on the head of the screw. You then use a pipe
thread handle to with the removal bit to remove the screw.
Sorry that I cannot give part numbers but I know that Sears has them.
Do Not archive.
On May 17, 2007, at 5:36 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote:
| Quote: |
Well it was only a matter of time. I had a little assistance in
installing the mounting screws for the fuel tank while I was off
working on my thesis for grad school. 3 screws are stripped. Grit
on the scrwedriver and my Proto screw removers have all failed to
remove the screws. Any other methods out there that have worked for
you? Got to get the wings out of the shop so I have room for the
Fuse next week. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
40518 Finishing SB wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113451#113451
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Vern(at)teclabsinc.com
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 6:34 am Post subject: Screw removal |
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There is also another tool out there called an "Easy Out" (or that is
what I've always heard them called.) Same idea as what Rob suggested but
instead of being square they have a very course reversed thread. Most
industrial hardware stores carry them.
It may also be helpful to put a few drops of penetrating oil on the
screw's threads. Just clean it off before inserting a new screw.
Vern Smith (#324)
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 7:29 am Post subject: Screw removal |
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I have had good success with Easy Outs (or whatever they are called, from
Sears). They look like a deburring bign backwards and chuck up in a drill.
I put them in a cordless DeWalt and turn it in reverse very slowly and they
take a bite and back the screw right out. YMMV, but they work great for me.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
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Eric_Kallio
Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 149
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 1:50 pm Post subject: Re: Screw removal |
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I used easy outs from work. and they didn't work either. Including myself 3 A&Ps have looked at them and they aren't coming out without a fight. The problem is the metal is so soft that the heads just hollow out. I may end up having to drill the whole thing out, removing the tank completely, replace the nutplates, and then re-install the tanks. 30 some years of combined maintenance exerience and no one here has seen screws this tough to remove. Guess I will have to keep trying until something works. Thanks for your help.
Eric
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Randy(at)abros.com
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 2:05 pm Post subject: Screw removal |
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Eric, have you tried Left hand drill bits. They work great. You use a
smaller size than you think you need. As you drill it is grabbing and
trying to unscrew the bad screw. If it doesn't get it go to the next
size larger. I buy them at a local bolt house. Randy 40006
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AV8ORJWC
Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 3:10 pm Post subject: Screw removal |
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At work we removed scores of errant fasteners. We use two sizes of
Snap-On easy-outs which have a lifetime warrantee and wear out at the
rate of about 50 fasteners. It is the hardened (CRES) fasteners, not
the soft ones which give us problems. We use a solution of Clover
Lapping Compound (medium grit) applied with a common plastic squeeze
bottle to correct what is either corroded threads (Use LPS-3 on
installation to correct) or the damned idiot before us that used a drill
with the torque set too tight and stripped the head on insertion.
My record is 2300 fasteners in one shift with only 3 bad ones. One
required redrilling and re-installation of a new nut plate in the fuel
cell. When in doubt change it out cause the next time your effort will
exceed the cost of the replacement fastener.
John #600
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bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 5:20 pm Post subject: Screw removal |
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After doing several annuals on my RV-6, here is my solution to phillips screws. First is to buy a new, very good bit for my power screwdriver. I take all the brass screws, and there are hundreds of them removed at each annual, and place them in one big plastic bag. The occasional one that goes completely bad while removing, I use a easy-out. Occasionally the head is drilled off and then I either replace the nut plate or remove the screw from the backside.
The bag goes home, and then at TV time, I sort the screws into trash and ones that look absolutely untouched. I never reuse one that even has a shine. End up replacing about 30-50% of the screws at every annual, but the lack of stress the next time is well worth it. When reassembly damages a screw, take it out then and scrap it.
Bruce Patton
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Bill Schlatterer
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 195
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| Posted: Sat May 19, 2007 5:33 pm Post subject: Screw removal |
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Eric, I'm not sure if these will work for you but I bought a set at the Las
Vegas SEMA car show and they will take out about any kind of normal soft
screw. They are pretty amazing. One end drills the head out, and the
opposite is a reverse thread fit that just backs it out. Pretty neat.
http://www.aldn.com/grabit/
Hope this helps.
Bill S
7a Ark
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