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Series 7 heater questions??

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darinh

Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah

Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 10:01 pm Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

I have two questions related to the cabin heater install in my Series 7. 



First:



I am installing the cabin heating kit on my Series 7 and it required me to cut/drill 2 - 1 inch holes in the SS firewall.  I have a metal flywheel cutter that works great on aluminum and mild steel but stainless is a beast to drill or cut as it stress hardens with heat.  Is using the flywheel the best way to approach this?  I am going to try it tomorrow but don't want to flub up my firewall.  I'm sure many have done this so I thought I would as before I go forward with it.



Second:



The radiator (Earl's supplied with the heater kit) has two fittings for the water that have an o-ring seal.  The Kitfox manual says to use a good quality thread sealer, while the Earl's installation instructions for the radiator say to simply apply a good quality oil to the o-rings and snug the fittings with a wrench.  Do I need to use the thread sealant and if so, can I use teflon tape?  Seems like that would do the trick and actually be overkill given the o-ring designed seal.  Any thoughts?



Thanks guys,

_________________
Darin Hawkes
Series 7
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah

wingsdown(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 1:18 am Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

I used a drill first, go slow speed with pressure add lube if you like

with cutting oil. Then use the appropriate hole  knock out punch. Much

cleaner. SS is difficult to cut. One inch will probably be OK if your

careful and have a good quality hole saw with metal cutting type teeth.

Don’t go fast or you will burn up the teeth and or bit. What make a nice

clean hole if you don’t want or have the hole punch is a step drill. You

can find them in and sizes. Good luck. OH be careful of what's on the

other side of the firewall. Sounds simple I know.



Rick 



--

john(at)leptron.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 5:25 am Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

Darin,

I am still unpacking and setting up my shop at home, but, I thing I can find

my 1 inch punch. It is a clamshell thing and all you need is a 1/4" (I

think) hole then a wrench to tighten the clamshell. I am headed to Heber

city in the am; I could drop by or meet you. 

Do not use the Teflon tape, bad use on an airplane. Teflon in a tube from

loctite can be found at a parts store, if you feel the need. (Napa)the o

rings will do the job just fine.



John Oakley

89 kitfox 4 speedster

750 hours now

Ogden ut



--

lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 5:53 am Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

Darin,



I think the manal was referring to the taper pipe fittings that were on the 

earlier Earl's coolers.  If yours has O-rings, I would go with the Earl's 

instructions.  Regarding the firewall hole.  With what is in my shop, I 

would try the fly cutter at the slowest speed possible.  The punch would be 

the best - no heat.  I have had poor results with hole saws as they are very 

rarely round and have always given me a hole somewhat larger than the 

desired dimension.



Lowell Fitt

Cameron Park, CA

Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp

1998 870 hrs.



---

7suds(at)Chartermi.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:04 am Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

 	  Quote: 	
		   I have two questions related to the cabin heater install in my Series 7.


	


Darin,

Sounds like you have received some good advise already, knock out punches 

work great just make sure they are sharp and close clearance for use on 

stainless, another option is to drill a smaller hole than needed, again make 

sure you have a sharp bit, use oil and turn the bit slow with lots of 

pressure, I also like to back up drilling light stainless with a block of 

wood, and then use a dremel tool with a stone to finish out to your desired 

size. However you make the hole you will want to debur any sharp edges and 

also use a rubber grommet or sleeve in the hole to protect the fluid hoses.



Lloyd C

Upper Mich.

Mod 5 912ul

Maybe next Summer

Vic Baker

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 71
Location: Carson City, Nevada

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:58 am Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

Darin,

I just recently installed the heater in my 7.  I have the firewall and

engine mounted and did not want to remove to drill the two holes.  First I

tried the step drill.  It was not possible to get a clean hole and prevent

hole drift.  I stopped before making a big mess.  I then used a 1.25"

knockout punch to finish.  Finally I installed 1.25" OD, .875" ID rubber

grommets.  The heater's fittings fit tightly within these.  Be sure to make

careful measurements - the fittings and grommets just clear the structural

tubing of the fuse.  If you need a couple of grommets, send me your address,

I'll send them to you (I had to buy an entire bag of the silly things!).

Oh, I'll send a couple of photo's (digital via email) if you'd like.



Vic



Vic Baker

Carson City, Nv

K-7 912S Warp 80%

---

_________________
Vic Baker
Series 7
Carson City, Nevada

Guy Buchanan

Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Posts: 1204
Location: Ramona, CA

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 7:42 am Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

At 11:01 PM 6/2/2007, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I am installing the cabin heating kit on my Series 7 and it required 

me to cut/drill 2 - 1 inch holes in the SS firewall.


	


I have a very thin hardened stainless firewall. It's very hard to 

drill. For free-standing holes, (those drilled without benefit of a 

backing plate, ) I start with a very small drill, on the order of 

1/16" and drill a pilot hole. I then enlarge that to about 3/8" with 

a step drill. I then go larger with a Dremel and burr. I have found 

that no matter how sharp my drills, they cause the hole to divot. (No 

backing plate.) And no matter how sharp my step drills, they drill an 

out-of-round hole. (Again, no backing plate.) So I use the burr to 

enlarge to a marked line. It's not perfect, but the best I could get 

without a backing plate.



I never considered using a punch, as I though the stainless was way 

too hard. It sounds like I should have tried that first. I would also 

contact Murle Williams on this question. He's a perfectionist and has 

probably figured the best way to drill large holes in free-standing stainless.

Guy Buchanan

San Diego, CA

K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.

_________________
Guy Buchanan
Deceased K-IV 1200
A glider pilot too.

darinh

Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:38 am Post subject: Re: Series 7 heater questions??

Thanks guys for the info.  I will probably take John up on the punch as he lives nearby.  I will let you all know how it turns out.

_________________
Darin Hawkes
Series 7
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah

john(at)leptron.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 7:24 pm Post subject: Series 7 heater questions??

Vic,

I think an attachment picture would be proper on the list for everyone. This

is a building list.

John Oakley



--

darinh

Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 7:42 pm Post subject: Re: Series 7 heater questions??

I have made the holes, one turned out ok the other turned out perfect.  Here is what I did.  



1st hole:  Pilot drilled to 1/4" starting with a #40 and working up in steps spinning the drill very slowly with lots of pressure.  Then I used the flywheel cutter...ended up sharpening the cutter 3 or 4 times before I got the hole.  Then finished up with the dremel.  I wouldn't try this method again.



2nd hole:  Drilled the same pilot hole as before but then used my Unibit and it cut the stainless very easily.  I used a 2x4 as a backing plate and drilled slowly.  The hole is very nice and clean with not warping of the stainless.  This is the recommended way if you don't have a laser or punch handy.

_________________
Darin Hawkes
Series 7
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah

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