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jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:57 am Post subject: Use of heat gun |
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I have a hinge mounted on the aileron about 1/16 from where I want it. I need to move it. The rivets drilled out easily but the manual had me use flox in addition to the rivets. In other words, the hinge is solidly floxed to the aileron. I know you can use a heat gun to remove it but I am reluctant to put too much heat to it. First, is a hair dryer adequate or do I need to purchase a heat gun? Second, what is the danger of damaging the aileron if the hinge is heated? It should be fairly easy to heat the hinge to a higher temprature than the underlling fiberglass, is there someting I need to do to protect the epoxy in the area of the hinge from the heat from the gun?
Any thoughts from those who have been through it would be appreciated.
Jim Puglise A-283, FL
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josok-e(at)ukolo.fi Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:36 pm Post subject: Use of heat gun |
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Hi Jim,
Use a soldering iron, the heat will go where it matters and nowhere else.
Kind Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:45 pm Post subject: Use of heat gun |
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Hello Jim
Removing hinges:
"Any thoughts from those who have been through it would be appreciated."
I recently needed to remove hinges from my rudder. I too had concerns
about heat damage. I never got to heating, I supported and 1 good whack on
a piece of maple that was laying on the hinge removed it just fine. I had
my hinges sanded right through plating, the flox for most part remained on
aluminium!
I wanted to move the rudder to the starboard a bit, so added 2 BID and
0625" G-10 spacers under hinges. I replaced the side of the hinge with
rivet holes, refilled the rivet holes on the rudder and drilled new holes
through all. Worked great.
I used Redux/Flox to rebond hinges, and Redux/floxed the rivet heads then
put a very thin layer (lightweight model airplane cloth) of
Redux/fiberglass/peelply to cover the heads to prepare for filling.
A neat trick I wish I incorporated in whole aeroplane is to make sure to
mount half hinges on the movable control surface. This way you can pinch
hinge pin and force wear in the half of hinge that has nutplates on them
that is much easier to replace than going through what you are going
through on a finished part.
Ron Parigoris
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budyerly(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:09 pm Post subject: Use of heat gun |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Jim,
I don't know how a 1/16 error would require all this work, unless it is recessed too far and binding, but here is an instruction I gave one of my clients recently:
At my shop, we have had to remove a number of misplace hinges. Use a soldering gun (Weller is good) of about 40 watts, the heat gun will damage too large of an area for my liking. Clean up the flox and epoxy buildup on the ends of the hinge so you can just see the buried side without getting into the glass fiber. Heat the metal hinge only, and pry it up carefully. I use a flat Exacto knife to use as a pry bar and begin heating on one end of the hinge. I watch to ensure the glass is not changing color from excess heat and do not use so much force to distort the glass. Keep the other side of the glass surface cool by using a wet paper towel. Once the hinge starts to move, you can just pull on the hinge or grab it with pliers. I never reuse the hinge. Then do a fiberglass repair of the area. Your best efforts have weakened the glass anyway so just suck it up and do it. That means sanding it down on both sides and rebuilding the area with 8 oz. glass and flox. Peel ply and inspect. Then start over on the hinge placement.
It sounds like a tedious project and it is. I am anal about ensuring the repairs are structurally strong, hence the lack of desire to just heat the pee out of it and yank it off, reposition and flox mentality, although it has been done many times.
I hope this helps.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight.
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