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joe(at)kfiz.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:16 am Post subject: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 |
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Here is a link to the AT-6 which landed on a highway outside of Oshkosh with
an engine failure.
http://ugv.abcnews.go.com/Player.aspx?id=541864
Joe in Oshkosh
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ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne Guest
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Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 4:43 pm Post subject: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 |
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[quote][b]
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 2704 Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:08 pm Post subject: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 |
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You are right about the size of the square pegs. !/4 inch will be for small
wrenches and a little device called a torque meter. Great for torque that
can be attained with a screwdriver size handle.
Next is the 3/8" that is you 20 - 200+ in.lb... The 1/2 will generally be
10 - 200+ft.lb..
There are a few different types of torque wrenches. The one that you have
seen in your local car dealership is the click type. You adjust the torque
required by turning in out a spring inside the handle. At the appropriate
torque you will hear a click designating the torque has been met. The down
side of this wrench is it really should be calibrated every so often (
annually ) and it cannot be used for friction torque where you add the
torque required just to turn the fibre lock nut on a bolt. The click style
wrench is handy because it does have a ratchet drive. Remember to always
release the tension on the spring before storing your wrench.
The next is the digital torque wrench. This wrench has a load cell built
into the handle. You tell it how much torque you want to apply and it will
vibrate or beep at you when the torque is met. Calibration is electronic
and can be checked annually but by and large should be accurate to less than
1% error. I'm not sure if it can meter the drag for friction torque.
The last is the beam wrench. This is a larger wrench which has a pointer
attached to the drive end. Torque is measured by the flex in the handle of
the wrench. It is easy to use this wrench for friction torque and it almost
never will require calibration ( don't drive over it with the pickup!!) You
may find versions of the beam wrench with dial readings etc. generally they
have no moving parts and are there fore cheaper.
Best advice is to get the 1/4 in. torque meter to measure friction torque.
Get the 3/8 wrench either beam or click style to do about 99% of the work on
your plane. And borrow a 1/2" torque wrench when ever you really need it.
Torque wrenches should never be used to remove nuts or bolts only to tighten
them. Click style should be calibrated and have the tension slacked off for
storage. When torquing a nut/bolt with the click style wrench as soon as
the click is heard the fastener is torqued. Clicking two or three times
doesn't help.
Noel
Quote: |
Time: 07:10:27 PM PST US
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlossa52(at)gmail.com>
Subject: torque wrench
Hello, all
I am ready to acquire a torque wrench. (Actually, it'll have
to be two -
read on.)
I took a look on the net and found a wide range of prices
(from around $30
to many hundreds).
Then I searched the Z-list archives and found several tips.
This one, in
response to a query from Bill Morelli is on top of my list:
*I have two torque wrenches. One 20 to 200 Inch/Lbs. The
other is 10 to 150
Foot/Lbs.
Bought them from JC Whitney $22 for one and $24 (US) for the other.
Leo Gates*
These wrenches are still in the approximate price range, even
though the
posting dates to July 31, 1998!
http://www.jcwhitney.com
QUESTION: the specs mention 1/4" and 1/2" drive (and some
others 3/8"). Is
that the size of the square "peg" where the socket inserts?
Thanks in advance
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
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