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jeff(at)rmmm.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:10 am Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Hi Guys,
I just was about to go flying this morning to test a few changes I've
made as my bird has not been cooling in this heat well. As I did the
run-up the right mag didn't drop any RPM's but the right did as it
should. My temps started climbing again so I went right back to the
hanger. The engine didn't want to shut down so I had to starve it of
fuel. I pulled off the cowl right away and as I examined the mag
connections one of the wires just snapped off only about an inch from
the mag's side of the connection. The wire was very brittle and I'm
kind of surprised it's not of better quality. Has this happened to
anyone else and has anyone been able to fix it without ordering a new
mag itself?
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 85 hours and still having cooling issues.
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garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 9:36 am Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Jeff, I've had the "mag" wires break at least 5 times in the 7 years / 500 hours I've been flying my 914. There is alot of vibration on the ignition modules which I suppose causes the breaks. Although, the wire insulation and the wires themselves seem to be of inferior quality. I've spliced them together so many times, I'm down to a 1/4 inch stub exiting the ignition module. The next break and I'll be out of luck and will have to purchase a new module. Last time I checked they cost about $700 each. Ouch! I have no suggestions on how to keep "junk" from breaking. Good luck.........it happens to all 914's.
Garry Stout
[quote] ---
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budyerly(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 9:43 am Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Jeff,
If the mag wire was not supported well at the crimp connector, due to the crimping process and or soldering, and the continuous flexing of the wire, it will fail due to fatique. If it failed between the connector and the mag box, that is a new one to me. The ones I see are from the mag wires installed by the owner going to the mag connector. Those are cheap and easy connections to replace. The older engines and new engines have different style connectors so be sure to get the right one.
If in fact it is a broken factory installed wire, send out pictures to your Rotax dealer and request a product deficiency report. They have pdf files on line and in the owners manual. If you can info everyone I would appreciate that, as this should be corrected via an AD.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
customflightcreations.com
---
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rehn(at)rockisland.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:09 am Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Hi Jeff
This happens due to all the vibrations and the wires fatiguing and finally break. The best solution is to tie wrap as much as you can to limit the wires from moving around. I think the newer wiring system is superior and addressed this problem. I’ve had pretty good luck by keeping the wires tight and inspect often to insure things are staying tight. Good luck.
Jerry
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF ROBERTS
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 8:09 AM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Broken Mag wire
Hi Guys,
I just was about to go flying this morning to test a few changes I've made as my bird has not been cooling in this heat well. As I did the run-up the right mag didn't drop any RPM's but the right did as it should. My temps started climbing again so I went right back to the hanger. The engine didn't want to shut down so I had to starve it of fuel. I pulled off the cowl right away and as I examined the mag connections one of the wires just snapped off only about an inch from the mag's side of the connection. The wire was very brittle and I'm kind of surprised it's not of better quality. Has this happened to anyone else and has anyone been able to fix it without ordering a new mag itself?
<?fontfamily><?param Helvetica>Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 85 hours and still having cooling issues.
<?/fontfamily>
<?pre><?b><?font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier =============== Features Subscriptions page, Photoshare, and href="http://www.matronics.com/navigator?europa-list">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<?/a> the Web href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com<?/a> ===========
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topglock(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:31 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Jeff,
Fix the wire with solder, if you can, then tie them down at several places. Any reinforcement that you can add to the bundle will help...
Jeff - Baby Blue
308 hours
Garry wrote: [quote] Jeff, I've had the "mag" wires break at least 5 times in the 7 years / 500 hours I've been flying my 914. There is alot of vibration on the ignition modules which I suppose causes the breaks. Although, the wire insulation and the wires themselves seem to be of inferior quality. I've spliced them together so many times, I'm down to a 1/4 inch stub exiting the ignition module. The next break and I'll be out of luck and will have to purchase a new module. Last time I checked they cost about $700 each. Ouch! I have no suggestions on how to keep "junk" from breaking. Good luck.........it happens to all 914's.
Garry Stout
Quote: | ----- Original Message -----
From: JEFF ROBERTS (jeff(at)rmmm.net)
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 11:08 AM
Subject: Broken Mag wire
Hi Guys,
I just was about to go flying this morning to test a few changes I've made as my bird has not been cooling in this heat well. As I did the run-up the right mag didn't drop any RPM's but the right did as it should. My temps started climbing again so I went right back to the hanger. The engine didn't want to shut down so I had to starve it of fuel. I pulled off the cowl right away and as I examined the mag connections one of the wires just snapped off only about an inch from the mag's side of the connection. The wire was very brittle and I'm kind of surprised it's not of better quality. Has this happened to anyone else and has anyone been able to fix it without ordering a new mag itself?
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 85 hours and still having cooling issues.
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rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:40 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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"I have no suggestions on how to keep "junk" from breaking. Good
luck.........it happens to all 914's."
I have not yet viabrated the ignition modules on my 914 to see if I can
break the wires, but I am hoping the viabration dampening that Rotax
incorporated (I think is retrofittable to older engines) helps.
Ron P.
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jeff(at)rmmm.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:17 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Thanks Bud and all else!
I have fixed the wire by soldering on a 6 inch or so pig tail of high
quality aircraft wire then crimped them to the Mag wires going to the
switch. I did away with the rotax connectors and per all your advices
tie wrapped them securely so there are no lose wires. All works well.
On my cooling issues it's just a mater of too high of pressure in the
lower cowl not letting the upper air from the top intakes down through.
Until now the lower NACA was just shooting air into the lower cowl with
no direction causing the this high pressure. John Hurst told me some
time ago the demonstrator was set up this way and it was fine. This
overheating never showed until this hot Tennessee heat wave hit. Again
I believe I'll have it solved. I have glassed in the lower NACA to
receive a 2 inch scat tube. This I will run to the upper part of the
cowl. I hope it eliminates the high, lower cowl pressure and increases
the top air pressure to force more air cooling down through the
cylinders. I should have it all fixed in time for next weekend's
fly-in at Rough River.
I am looking forward to seeing old friends and some new ones. It's
amazing how many people we all have become friends with over this forum
and this is a chance to finally put faces to them.
If there are any Europa flyers or builders that have not committed to
coming this weekend to Rough River KY. I would encourage you to do so.
Weather permitting of course.
Best Regards,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 90 hours and climbing.
On Aug 22, 2007, at 12:41 PM, ALAN YERLY wrote:
[quote] Jeff,
If the mag wire was not supported well at the crimp connector, due to
the crimping process and or soldering, and the continuous flexing of
the wire, it will fail due to fatique. If it failed between the
connector and the mag box, that is a new one to me. The ones I see
are from the mag wires installed by the owner going to the mag
connector. Those are cheap and easy connections to replace. The
older engines and new engines have different style connectors so be
sure to get the right one.
If in fact it is a broken factory installed wire, send out pictures to
your Rotax dealer and request a product deficiency report. They have
pdf files on line and in the owners manual. If you can info everyone
I would appreciate that, as this should be corrected via an AD.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
customflightcreations.com
---
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sidsel.svein(at)oslo.onli Guest
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Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 11:03 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Jeff,
I hope the fix you describe will solve the cooling issue.
When I did the firewall-forward work, Andy Draper (at that time eith EA2004)
recommended that I closed the lower NACA - it should never have been there
for the 912/912S installations, he said, only for the 914's turbo. As I
recall our conversation, his point was that all this additional air coming
in at a place where it does not do any good for 912/912S, competes with the
cooling air coming in through the cowl front openings in getting out again.
In other words, the more places you let air in, the less air actually comes
in through each inlet when the outlet area is not increased. The NACA
therefore effectively reduces the air flow through the cowl front, which is
the air flow intended to cool the cylinders.
Your fix should therefore improve things, I believe.
Quote: | From what I can read between the lines, you don't have the Rotax glassfibre
cooling shroud over the cylinders and its (third) opening in the cowl front?
|
As air in = air out, I trust you have already ensured that you have maximum
possible outlet area aft/below, without reducing the air flow through the
coolers?
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Jeff wrote:
Quote: | On my cooling issues it's just a mater of too high of pressure in the
lower cowl not letting the upper air from the top intakes down through.
Until now the lower NACA was just shooting air into the lower cowl with no
direction causing the this high pressure. John Hurst told me some time ago
the demonstrator was set up this way and it was fine. This overheating
never showed until this hot Tennessee heat wave hit. Again I believe I'll
have it solved. I have glassed in the lower NACA to receive a 2 inch scat
tube. This I will run to the upper part of the cowl. I hope it eliminates
the high, lower cowl pressure and increases the top air pressure to force
more air cooling down through the cylinders. I should have it all fixed
in time for next weekend's fly-in at Rough River.
|
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:51 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Jeff
The thing to remember above all else is that ALL the cooling air should
go throught the radiators or the cylinder fins. Mainly the radiators.
(Not much heat comes through the cylinder walls, its all generated in
the head and the top of the pistons. So it heats the oil and the coolant.)
You should seal all the gaps round the radiators.
If you compare the area between the fins with the size of the gaps
around the rads, then consider the dragginess of the finning its not
surprising too much air leaks past and does no cooling at all.
Have a look at the cooling air inlet on this Long EZ, this efficiently
cools a 160 hp Lycosaurus and only needs about 8 square inches a side to
cool all four cylinders. The key is pressure recovery and good sealing.
High pressure to force the air through the fins and nowhere else.
The other pik is the first Europa fly in at rough river, October 06!
Wonderful weekend, except the Kentucky beer isn't much good, neither is
Kentucky wine. Kentucky bourbon is OK but they aren't aloud to sell it
to you!}}
Graham
Sidsel & Svein Johnsen wrote:
>
<sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I hope the fix you describe will solve the cooling issue.
>
> When I did the firewall-forward work, Andy Draper (at that time eith
EA2004) recommended that I closed the lower NACA - it should never have
been there for the 912/912S installations, he said, only for the 914's
turbo. As I recall our conversation, his point was that all this
additional air coming in at a place where it does not do any good for
912/912S, competes with the cooling air coming in through the cowl front
openings in getting out again. As air in = air out, I trust you have
already ensured that you have maximum possible outlet area aft/below,
without reducing the air flow through the coolers?
>
> Regards,
> Svein
> LN-SKJ
>
> Jeff wrote:
>
>> On my cooling issues it's just a mater of too high of pressure in
the lower cowl not letting the upper air from the top intakes down through.
Sidsel & Svein Johnsen wrote:
Quote: |
<sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Jeff,
I hope the fix you describe will solve the cooling issue.
When I did the firewall-forward work, Andy Draper (at that time eith
EA2004) recommended that I closed the lower NACA - it should never have
been there for the 912/912S installations, he said, only for the 914's
turbo. As I recall our conversation, his point was that all this
additional air coming in at a place where it does not do any good for
912/912S, competes with the cooling air coming in through the cowl front
openings in getting out again. In other words, the more places you let
air in, the less air actually comes in through each inlet when the
outlet area is not increased. The NACA therefore effectively reduces
the air flow through the cowl front, which is the air flow intended to
cool the cylinders.
Your fix should therefore improve things, I believe.
> From what I can read between the lines, you don't have the Rotax
> glassfibre
cooling shroud over the cylinders and its (third) opening in the cowl
front?
As air in = air out, I trust you have already ensured that you have
maximum possible outlet area aft/below, without reducing the air flow
through the coolers?
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Jeff wrote:
> On my cooling issues it's just a mater of too high of pressure in the
> lower cowl not letting the upper air from the top intakes down
> through. Until now the lower NACA was just shooting air into the lower
> cowl with no direction causing the this high pressure. John Hurst told
> me some time ago the demonstrator was set up this way and it was fine.
> This overheating never showed until this hot Tennessee heat wave hit.
> Again I believe I'll have it solved. I have glassed in the lower NACA
> to receive a 2 inch scat tube. This I will run to the upper part of
> the cowl. I hope it eliminates the high, lower cowl pressure and
> increases the top air pressure to force more air cooling down through
> the cylinders. I should have it all fixed in time for next weekend's
> fly-in at Rough River.
|
--
Graham Singleton
Tel: +441629820187
Mob: +447739582005
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jeff(at)rmmm.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 4:45 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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On Aug 27, 2007, at 6:48 PM, Graham Singleton wrote:
Quote: |
Wonderful weekend, except the Kentucky beer isn't much good, neither is
Kentucky wine. Kentucky bourbon is OK but they aren't aloud to sell it
to you!}}
Gram,
|
You are right, the Kentucky anything cannot compete with the Tennessee
whisky. Anytime you want to make the treck over I'll be glad to
introduce you to the best drink on the planet... a good ol Lynchburg
lemonade.
Thanks,
Jeff R.
A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 90 hours and climbing slowly.
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terrys(at)cisco.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:20 am Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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There is one more thing that needs cooling air, the muffler, there is a
lot of heat dumped into the cowl at the muffler. Cooling air needs to
be directed past the cylinders and then around the muffler to keep from
melting things under the cowl.
Regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
--
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte Guest
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:13 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Terry
you are right. I didn't make my point clearly enough. The important
thing is to achieve a good pressure difference between the upstream and
downstream sides of the radiators. Cooling the muffler is also important
but has to be treated as a separate issue. It's not practical to get a
single stream of air to do all three efficiently under all conditions.
Graham
Terry Seaver (terrys) wrote:
Quote: |
There is one more thing that needs cooling air, the muffler, there is a
lot of heat dumped into the cowl at the muffler. Cooling air needs to
be directed past the cylinders and then around the muffler to keep from
melting things under the cowl.
Regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
Jeff
The thing to remember above all else is that ALL the cooling air should
go throught the radiators or the cylinder fins. Mainly the radiators.
(Not much heat comes through the cylinder walls, its all generated in
the head and the top of the pistons. So it heats the oil and the
coolant.) You should seal all the gaps round the radiators.
Graham
|
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte Guest
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:50 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Jeff
and if you treck over here I'll introduce you to good old Staffordshire
beer. (just about equal to Slovakian beer, the real Budweiser! )
Graham
JEFF ROBERTS wrote:
Quote: |
On Aug 27, 2007, at 6:48 PM, Graham Singleton wrote:
>
> Wonderful weekend, except the Kentucky beer isn't much good, neither is
> Kentucky wine. Kentucky bourbon is OK but they aren't aloud to sell it
> to you!}}
|
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hurstkr(at)redzone.com.au Guest
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 3:39 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Quote: | and if you treck over here I'll introduce you to good old
Staffordshire
|
beer. (just about equal to Slovakian beer, the real Budweiser! )
Graham
It's got nothing on our XXXX (pronounced Fourex) Graham, XXXX will make
a sparrow fight an Emu ! !
Cheers
Kingsley
Do not archive
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 10:38 am Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Kingsley ole mate
that's a matter of a pinion or two! btw four ex- what?
Graham
Kingsley Hurst wrote:
Quote: | Staffordshire
beer. (just about equal to Slovakian beer, the real Budweiser! )
Graham
It's got nothing on our XXXX (pronounced Fourex) Graham, XXXX will make
a sparrow fight an Emu ! !
Cheers
Kingsley
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hurstkr(at)redzone.com.au Guest
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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 4:29 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Quote: | Kingsley ole mate
that's a matter of a pinion or two! btw four ex- what?
|
Bitter ale mate, bitter ale.
I'll introduce it to you when you come over next time.
Cheers
K
Do not archive
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karelvranken(at)hotmail.c Guest
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Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:43 pm Post subject: Broken Mag wire |
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Jeff,
Your are wright. During the Italian tour I not only could give a face to a
well known name; thanks to the forum, but it also was an occasion to have a
lot of fun.
To say it as once was said: never I flew so much with so many and never we
were eating so much with so few. Drinking as I tought was a habit, but the
heavenly nectars we sipped were numinous and numerous. This is for me the
occasion to thank David Joyce for his excellent organisation, his unique
feeling for good restaurants and his exceptionel nose for the best wines in
the world. Last but not least, the sympathy and friendship that I (nearly
deaf grandfather) received from the other strangers; David Corbett,
Allisdair Milne, Jeanne and Richard Iddon, and our all Checz Ottokar were
adorable. At the same time the message will say to those friends that I came
home in good weather conditions and in good health.
Best regards,
Karel Vranken # 447 Mono F-PKRL now already 93 hours.
---
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