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Jabiru Alternator Wiring

 
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noelk



Joined: 05 Oct 2007
Posts: 10
Location: Canberra, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 4:38 am    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

I am at the stage of planning the wiring for a Jabiru 3300 installation. It is one of the late model engines using the single phase alternator with a Kubota RP201-53710 regulator. The aircraft will be used for night VFR operations, so we want to be able to isolate the alternator and run on battery power only in the event of alternator problems.

I am only just starting to come to grips with the pecularities of PM alternators. After having been given a reference to this site and the Aeroelectric Connection by a friend, I have spent the last few days scanning the list and reading the book. This has clarified a number of things, but I still have a few questions which, based on what I have seen here so far, I am sure someone will be able to answer.

I have seen a number of references to problems with load dumping if the alternator is disconnected from the battery. Is this a problem with PM alternators or only wound field ones?

The simple Jabiru schematic in Figure Z-20 would appear to use the same regulator looking at the pin-outs and wire colours, and would seem to meet our requirement. Is the electrolytic capacitor at the output of the regulatorfor noise filtering, or is it related to the load dumping problem?

I have also seen a couple of schematics on builders web sites with slightly different approaches. One used the alternator switch to both disconnect the regulator sense line from the main bus and control a relay connecting the regulator output line to the main bus, but no capacitor. The other had a relay only in the regulator output line. The sense line was left connected to the main bus, and would therefore have still been at +12V ( at least until the battery discharged) if the alternator switch was opened. Once again, no capacitor. What are the advantages or problems associated with these approaches?

Regards

Noel Karppinen
[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 5:45 am    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Hello Noel

I believe there are no load dump issues with PM alternators. The
capacitor is for noise I think mostly for running without a battery in
the circuit. My architecture never does that and since the capacitor
didn't make any difference for me I eliminated it. I have a relay
between the alternator and the regulator for control and overvolt
cutoff. It does not take a robust contactor there as it is AC current
and that relay also lets me kill power to a misbehaving regulator. The
B+ output of the regulator has a CB (a fuse would be fine) to protect
against excess battery current going into a misbehaving regulator. My
control switch does control the relay and provide power to the
regulator. Some regulators draw a bit of current when not in use but
regardless I want to shut off that wire on a misbehaving regulator. If
you've detected a theme here - yes the regulator tends to be the most
failure prone component so mine is on the cool side of the firewall
where it gets warm to the touch but not hot.
Ken

Noel Karppinen wrote:

Quote:
I am at the stage of planning the wiring for a Jabiru 3300
installation. It is one of the late model engines using the single
phase alternator with a Kubota RP201-53710 regulator. The aircraft
will be used for night VFR operations, so we want to be able to
isolate the alternator and run on battery power only in the event of
alternator problems.

I am only just starting to come to grips with the pecularities of PM
alternators. After having been given a reference to this site and the
Aeroelectric Connection by a friend, I have spent the last few days
scanning the list and reading the book. This has clarified a number
of things, but I still have a few questions which, based on what I
have seen here so far, I am sure someone will be able to answer.

I have seen a number of references to problems with load dumping if
the alternator is disconnected from the battery. Is this a problem
with PM alternators or only wound field ones?

The simple Jabiru schematic in Figure Z-20 would appear to use the
same regulator looking at the pin-outs and wire colours, and would
seem to meet our requirement. Is the electrolytic capacitor at the
output of the regulatorfor noise filtering, or is it related to the
load dumping problem?

I have also seen a couple of schematics on builders web sites with
slightly different approaches. One used the alternator switch to both
disconnect the regulator sense line from the main bus and control a
relay connecting the regulator output line to the main bus, but no
capacitor. The other had a relay only in the regulator output line.
The sense line was left connected to the main bus, and would therefore
have still been at +12V ( at least until the battery discharged) if
the alternator switch was opened. Once again, no capacitor. What are
the advantages or problems associated with these approaches?

Regards

Noel Karppinen


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Peter H



Joined: 20 Mar 2007
Posts: 197

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 1:22 pm    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Ken,
Can you advise details of the AC relay and its connections? (Sometimes a 20A
fuse is used there)
Thanks
Peter H

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:59 pm    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Peter
I'm using a 40 amp rated automotive relay with push on connections.
About a 1" cube. Think they are sometimes called a VF4 by Tyco. $3. or
maybe $4. from places like digi-key.
Ken

Peter Harris wrote:

[quote]

Ken,
Can you advise details of the AC relay and its connections? (Sometimes a 20A
fuse is used there)
Thanks
Peter H

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Peter H



Joined: 20 Mar 2007
Posts: 197

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 7:13 pm    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Thanks ken
What are the connections?
Peter
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noelk



Joined: 05 Oct 2007
Posts: 10
Location: Canberra, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:05 am    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Quote:
Hi KenYou said:>I have a relay
Quote:
between the alternator and the regulator for control and overvolt
cutoff. It does not take a robust contactor there as it is AC current
and that relay also lets me kill power to a misbehaving regulator. The
B+ output of the regulator has a CB (a fuse would be fine) to protect
against excess battery current going into a misbehaving regulator.

Thanks for the infornmation. I had wondered about the possibility of isolating the regulator from the alternator, but I have not seen any previous references to this being done. Could you confirm that I have understood this correctly. i.e that you do not have any relay between the regulator output and the main bus, just the circuit breaker.


Noel Karppinen
[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:03 am    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Noel Karppinen wrote:

Quote:
Hi Ken

You said:

>I have a relay
> between the alternator and the regulator for control and overvolt
>cutoff. It does not take a robust contactor there as it is AC current
>and that relay also lets me kill power to a misbehaving regulator. The
>B+ output of the regulator has a CB (a fuse would be fine) to protect
>against excess battery current going into a misbehaving regulator.

Thanks for the infornmation. I had wondered about the possibility of
isolating the regulator from the alternator, but I have not seen any
previous references to this being done. Could you confirm that I have
understood this correctly. i.e that you do not have any relay between
the regulator output and the main bus, just the circuit breaker.

Noel Karppinen

Yes that is correct Noel. Actually I thought the current Z figure had
also been changed to show that now. I run an electrically dependant
engine so neither the alternator or the battery bus go through another
battery contactor or relay. Another reason to do this might be that I
have also found that the John Deere regulator fails instantly if run
with a totally dead battery -which is about the same as not having a
battery connected. (My little AGM batteries simply won't accept any
significant current initially if they are totally dead) Maybe the big
capacitor would protect against that but I have doubts.

Peter the little VF4 relays just use our common PIDG push on
connections. You can mount the relay in a socket if you wish but that
is not necessary. I think B&C also sell a slightly different suitable
relay in a plastic case that does not use a socket.

Ken


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Peter H



Joined: 20 Mar 2007
Posts: 197

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:07 pm    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Thanks Ken.
Peter

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 4:56 am    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

At 09:00 AM 10/9/2007 -0400, you wrote:

Quote:


Noel Karppinen wrote:

>Hi Ken
>
>You said:
>
>>I have a relay between the alternator and the regulator for control and
>>overvolt cutoff. It does not take a robust contactor there as it is AC
>>current and that relay also lets me kill power to a misbehaving
>>regulator. The B+ output of the regulator has a CB (a fuse would be
>>fine) to protect against excess battery current going into a misbehaving
>>regulator.
>
>Thanks for the infornmation. I had wondered about the possibility of
>isolating the regulator from the alternator, but I have not seen any
>previous references to this being done. Could you confirm that I have
>understood this correctly. i.e that you do not have any relay between the
>regulator output and the main bus, just the circuit breaker.
>
>Noel Karppinen

Yes that is correct Noel. Actually I thought the current Z figure had
also been changed to show that now. I run an electrically dependant
engine so neither the alternator or the battery bus go through another
battery contactor or relay. Another reason to do this might be that I
have also found that the John Deere regulator fails instantly if run with
a totally dead battery -which is about the same as not having a battery
connected. (My little AGM batteries simply won't accept any significant
current initially if they are totally dead) Maybe the big capacitor would
protect against that but I have doubts.

Peter the little VF4 relays just use our common PIDG push on
connections. You can mount the relay in a socket if you wish but that is
not necessary. I think B&C also sell a slightly different suitable relay
in a plastic case that does not use a socket.

Ken
--
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Bob . . .

----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------


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DaveG601XL



Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 351
Location: Cincinnati, Oh

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

Bob,

If you meant to say something in your 10/09 posting, nothing got printed out that I can see. I am also expecting to use a Jabiru engine with the PM alternator and am interested in your input to this thread.

Thanks,


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:23 am    Post subject: Jabiru Alternator Wiring Reply with quote

At 09:00 AM 10/9/2007 -0400, you wrote:

Quote:


Noel Karppinen wrote:

>Hi Ken
>
>You said:
>
>>I have a relay between the alternator and the regulator for control and
>>overvolt cutoff. It does not take a robust contactor there as it is AC
>>current and that relay also lets me kill power to a misbehaving
>>regulator. The B+ output of the regulator has a CB (a fuse would be
>>fine) to protect against excess battery current going into a misbehaving
>>regulator.
>
>Thanks for the infornmation. I had wondered about the possibility of
>isolating the regulator from the alternator, but I have not seen any
>previous references to this being done. Could you confirm that I have
>understood this correctly. i.e that you do not have any relay between the
>regulator output and the main bus, just the circuit breaker.
>
>Noel Karppinen

Yes that is correct Noel. Actually I thought the current Z figure had
also been changed to show that now. I run an electrically dependant
engine so neither the alternator or the battery bus go through another
battery contactor or relay. Another reason to do this might be that I
have also found that the John Deere regulator fails instantly if run with
a totally dead battery -which is about the same as not having a battery
connected. (My little AGM batteries simply won't accept any significant
current initially if they are totally dead) Maybe the big capacitor would
protect against that but I have doubts.

Peter the little VF4 relays just use our common PIDG push on
connections. You can mount the relay in a socket if you wish but that is
not necessary. I think B&C also sell a slightly different suitable relay
in a plastic case that does not use a socket.

Ken

I need to update the Jabiru drawings to reflect the

philosophy illustrated in Z-16 for Rotax. You can
make the translation yourself. The same relay is used,
it's simply moved from the DC output leg of the
regulator/rectifier to the AC interface between
alternator and regulator/rectifier.
Bob . . .

----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------


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