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fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 7:33 pm Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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Bob,
When using the B&C SSF-1 wigwag flasher with two 100watt Halogen bulbs, can
I add a keep warm circuit in parallel with the flasher? If so would this
just consist of a nominal resistor (say 1K ohm) and some light gauge wire
(say 22 awg)?
If not, can you suggest a better alternative?
Thanks
Bevan
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:04 pm Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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At 08:30 PM 10/30/2007 -0700, you wrote:
Quote: |
Bob,
When using the B&C SSF-1 wigwag flasher with two 100watt Halogen bulbs, can
I add a keep warm circuit in parallel with the flasher? If so would this
just consist of a nominal resistor (say 1K ohm) and some light gauge wire
(say 22 awg)?
If not, can you suggest a better alternative?
Thanks
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Keepwarm is not necessary/useful for halogen lamps.
They take so long to cool down that after the first
turn-on, the inrush for successive flashes of the
wigwag is insignificantly higher than normal
operating current.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
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fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:45 am Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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Bob,
OK, very good to know and easy to implement. Thank you very much.
Bevan
RV7A wiring
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Tony Cann
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 3 Location: Fair Oaks, CA
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Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:33 pm Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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Is there any harm in wig-wagging halogen lamps (for the safety aspect)? Does it shorten lamp life? If not, is the SSF-1 the correct circuit?
Thanks
Tony
[quote][b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 4:41 am Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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At 09:31 PM 10/31/2007 -0700, you wrote:
Quote: | Is there any harm in wig-wagging halogen lamps (for the safety
aspect)? Does it shorten lamp life? If not, is the SSF-1 the correct circuit?
Thanks
Tony
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Temperature cycling by flashing any incandescent lamp
shortens service life . . . but then, using a drill
bit to drill holes also dulls the cutting edges;
drilling steel as opposed to wood makes for fewer
nice holes.
The halogen lamps are MUCH more robust than their
ancestors, hence a lot more tolerant of vibration
and operating cycles. I think it likely that
most owner/operators of halogen fitted aircraft
will operate the same bulbs for the lifetime of
the airplane.
If using the Wig-Wag system by any supplier is
a demonstrable reduction of in-flight risks, then
I'll suggest concerns for service life become
insignificant. Any Wig-Wag system including the
SSF-1 flasher from B&C is worthy of consideration.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
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echristley(at)nc.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 5:52 am Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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Tony Cann wrote:
Quote: |
Is there any harm in wig-wagging halogen lamps (for the safety
aspect)? Does it shorten lamp life? If not, is the SSF-1 the correct
circuit?
Thanks
Tony
Actually, there can be, depending on how it's done.
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The halogen works by getting a tungsten filament to glow. Part of the
filament turns to a gas within the bulb, and will settle on the inside
of the glass when the bulb is powered off. The next time the bulb is
turned on, the filament gets hot enough to burn the layer of deposit off
the glass (turning it back into a gas). If you continuously turn it on
without letting it warm to operating temperature, the deposit layer gets
thicker and thicker. The bulb will get darker and darker, and the fix
is simply to let the bulb come up to operating temps. The burn off
process can take a while if the bulb has been abused in this way.
OTOH, there's not point in doing this to a halogen bulb. The filament
in a normal bulb is a very fine wire, that breaks easily and vibrates
like mad. The filament in a halogen is a chunk of tungsten. You're
more likely to break the glass bulb than the filament.
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rv-9a-online(at)telus.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:52 am Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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I found that the flash rate of the SSF-1 was a bit too fast for my lamps to
come up to full brightness. It's a simple mod to replace the internal
electrolytic capacitor with one of higher value (I think I doubled the value
of mine). My issue may have been exacerbated by the inrush current limiters
(ntc thermistors) that I have in series with the lighting circuits.
Vern Little
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 9:26 am Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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At 09:50 AM 11/1/2007 -0700, you wrote:
Quote: |
<rv-9a-online(at)telus.net>
I found that the flash rate of the SSF-1 was a bit too fast for my lamps to
come up to full brightness. It's a simple mod to replace the internal
electrolytic capacitor with one of higher value (I think I doubled the value
of mine). My issue may have been exacerbated by the inrush current limiters
(ntc thermistors) that I have in series with the lighting circuits.
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Good data point Vern. I'd heard that before
but without specifics as to what the builder
did about it. I think he pitched the SSF-1 flasher
and substituted something else.
I don't think inrush limiters would affect timing
on this device . . . but it's certain that the
inrush limiters have more to do with mitigating
initial turn-on glitches to the bus than for
extending bulb life.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
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klehman(at)albedo.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:11 am Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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My 35 watt halogens are still happily wagging at 140 hours which is one
cent per hour bulb cost even if they both quit on the next flight. I
haven't checked them for tungsten deposit darkening recently but I do
know a very particular person who replaces automotive halogen headlights
every year or two because of darkening. I've never found it to be much
of an issue, even on a car that uses a resistor to reduce the current in
the daytime, but measurements might tell a better story. FWIW my opinion
is that thermistor inrush current limiters reduce maximum brightness
enough that I avoid them with halogens since these bulbs have much
extended lives anyway compared to the old 320 hour automotive sealed
beams. I won't purchase extended life household incandescents either
(except for locations with difficult access) as they increase the total
cost per lumen significantly due to less efficiency.
Ken
Ernest Christley wrote:
Quote: |
<echristley(at)nc.rr.com>
Tony Cann wrote:
>
> Is there any harm in wig-wagging halogen lamps (for the safety
> aspect)? Does it shorten lamp life? If not, is the SSF-1 the
> correct circuit?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Tony
>
Actually, there can be, depending on how it's done.
The halogen works by getting a tungsten filament to glow. Part of the
filament turns to a gas within the bulb, and will settle on the inside
of the glass when the bulb is powered off. The next time the bulb is
turned on, the filament gets hot enough to burn the layer of deposit
off the glass (turning it back into a gas). If you continuously turn
it on without letting it warm to operating temperature, the deposit
layer gets thicker and thicker. The bulb will get darker and darker,
and the fix is simply to let the bulb come up to operating temps. The
burn off process can take a while if the bulb has been abused in this
way.
OTOH, there's not point in doing this to a halogen bulb. The filament
in a normal bulb is a very fine wire, that breaks easily and vibrates
like mad. The filament in a halogen is a chunk of tungsten. You're
more likely to break the glass bulb than the filament.
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rv-9a-online(at)telus.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:48 am Post subject: Wig Wag and keep warm |
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Thanks Bob.
I put the inrush limiters in circuit as a switch saver as opposed to a lamp
saver. I've had two Carling switch failures in the first 100 hours-- one
Master Switch and the other in my Strobe circuit. The Master had loose
rivets that hold the fast-on tabs, while the Strobe switch (which also had a
loose rivet) overheated and cooked one terminal. Switch resistance had
increased significantly, and I believe the Strobe PSU draws more current at
lower voltages, leading to a thermal runaway in the switch.
Since then, I've inspected all of my switches for loose rivets and put the
inrush current limiters on the landing/taxi lights. I did return one of the
switches to the vendor but never heard back with a failure analysis.
The inrush limiters don't have much effect on maximum lamp brightness, but
slowing the wig-wag flasher down sure did.
Vern
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