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cutting and drilling Lexan

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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:49 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Kolb builder guys, 



  I began cutting the Lexan for my doors on the MkIII and managed to crack one.  I wasn't trying to cut the exact fit, just sort of close, so I could handle the piece easier.  But, a crack snapped a huge corner off and now the rest is too small to use, so I have to get another piece.  Crud!!  And seeing as how I screwed up one of the pieces, I thought I'd ask for some help from anyone who figures they've got Lexan fabrication down to a science!



  Yes, I have read up on some pointers from the internet, like scoring with a sheetrock knife, and ONLY using a special drillbit made for drilling into plastic, but is there any additonal tips and tricks you guys know?



  Like, is water needed for cooling to drill a hole, or is the bit all you need?



  Any useful pointers would be much appreciated.



                  Thanks,    Mike Welch.......   windowless in SW Utah

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Richard Pike

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee

Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:53 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Are you sure it's Lexan? Sounds like Plexiglas or acrylic. Lexan you can 

beat on it or bend the fool out of it and it ignores you.



Richard Pike

MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)



Mike Welch wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Kolb builder guys, 



   I began cutting the Lexan for my doors on the MkIII and managed to crack one.  I wasn't trying to cut the exact fit, just sort of close, so I could handle the piece easier.  But, a crack snapped a huge corner off and now the rest is too small to use, so I have to get another piece.  Crud!!  And seeing as how I screwed up one of the pieces, I thought I'd ask for some help from anyone who figures they've got Lexan fabrication down to a science!



   Yes, I have read up on some pointers from the internet, like scoring with a sheetrock knife, and ONLY using a special drillbit made for drilling into plastic, but is there any additonal tips and tricks you guys know?



   Like, is water needed for cooling to drill a hole, or is the bit all you need?



   Any useful pointers would be much appreciated.



                   Thanks,    Mike Welch.......   windowless in SW Utah

 _________________________________________________________________

 Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.

 http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0

Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing.

mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:09 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Actually, you're right.  The first piece I just screwed up today was plexiglass.  But, years ago, when I installed the Lexan windshield on my MkIII, I evidently didn't do it correctly then, either.  I ended up getting tons of cracks off the mounting holes I drilled.

  So, after admitting I've not taken the fabrication correctly and seriously enough, I want to only proceed the right way.

  So, what have you got for me?   Tips, pointers, criticisms?  Hmm?         Mike W.

 	  Quote: 	
		   Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 00:53:33 -0500

 From: richard(at)bcchapel.org

 To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

 Are you sure it's Lexan? Sounds like Plexiglas or acrylic. Lexan you can

 beat on it or bend the fool out of it and it ignores you.

 Richard Pike

 MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)

 Mike Welch wrote:

> 

> Kolb builder guys,

>

> I began cutting the Lexan for my doors on the MkIII and managed to crack one. I wasn't trying to cut the exact fit, just sort of close, so I could handle the piece easier. But, a crack snapped a huge corner off and now the rest is too small to use, so I have to get another piece. Crud!! And seeing as how I screwed up one of the pieces, I thought I'd ask for some help from anyone who figures they've got Lexan fabrication down to a science!

>

> Yes, I have read up on some pointers from the internet, like scoring with a sheetrock knife, and ONLY using a special drillbit made for drilling into plastic, but is there any additonal tips and tricks you guys know?

>

> Like, is water needed for cooling to drill a hole, or is the bit all you need?

>

> Any useful pointers would be much appreciated.

>

> Thanks, Mike Welch....... windowless in SW Utah

> _________________________________________________________________

> Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.

> http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

_________________________________________________________________

You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i’m Initiative now.

jindoguy(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:27 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Mike, I use the same grind for Lexan that I use for very soft metals.

I touch the cutting edge of the drill flute so that the cutting face

is parallel to the center axis of the drill. This flat face only has

to be .02 to .03 wide. It makes the drill shave off the material as it

cuts and it doesn't get sucked through as the drill exits the sheet.

Hope that makes sense. I have a sketch somewhere. I'll try to find it

in the morning while I'm having my coffee transfusion.

I know some on this list recommend aviation shears or big scissors and

that works great if you have really good arthritis drugs. My hands

cramp up too badly for me to use them for anything more than short

cuts. I like carbide grit saw blades, either round of jig saw style

work fine.



Rick



On Nov 17, 2007 11:48 PM, Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Kolb builder guys,



   I began cutting the Lexan for my doors on the MkIII and managed to crack one.  I wasn't trying to cut the exact fit, just sort of close, so I could handle the piece easier.  But, a crack snapped a huge corner off and now the rest is too small to use, so I have to get another piece.  Crud!!  And seeing as how I screwed up one of the pieces, I thought I'd ask for some help from anyone who figures they've got Lexan fabrication down to a science!



   Yes, I have read up on some pointers from the internet, like scoring with a sheetrock knife, and ONLY using a special drillbit made for drilling into plastic, but is there any additonal tips and tricks you guys know?



   Like, is water needed for cooling to drill a hole, or is the bit all you need?



   Any useful pointers would be much appreciated.



                   Thanks,    Mike Welch.......   windowless in SW Utah

 _________________________________________________________________

 Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.

 http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:39 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

I'm so gun-shy now, about wrecking more pieces, I wonder if I should just buy the factory drill bit.  I guess if you have a drawing of the correct shape of the cutting tip, then I ought to try and make one, and do lots of practicing.  I know Richard said true Lexan is pretty durable, but even still, there is a right way and wrong way, and I'd prefer to just stay with the right way, at this point.

Thanks, I'll look forward to the picture in the morning,   Mike

 	  Quote: 	
		   Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 00:27:20 -0600

 From: jindoguy(at)gmail.com

 To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

 Mike, I use the same grind for Lexan that I use for very soft metals.

 I touch the cutting edge of the drill flute so that the cutting face

 is parallel to the center axis of the drill. This flat face only has

 to be .02 to .03 wide. It makes the drill shave off the material as it

 cuts and it doesn't get sucked through as the drill exits the sheet.

 Hope that makes sense. I have a sketch somewhere. I'll try to find it

 in the morning while I'm having my coffee transfusion.

 I know some on this list recommend aviation shears or big scissors and

 that works great if you have really good arthritis drugs. My hands

 cramp up too badly for me to use them for anything more than short

 cuts. I like carbide grit saw blades, either round of jig saw style

 work fine.

 Rick

 On Nov 17, 2007 11:48 PM, Mike Welch  wrote:

> 

> Kolb builder guys,

>

> I began cutting the Lexan for my doors on the MkIII and managed to crack one. I wasn't trying to cut the exact fit, just sort of close, so I could handle the piece easier. But, a crack snapped a huge corner off and now the rest is too small to use, so I have to get another piece. Crud!! And seeing as how I screwed up one of the pieces, I thought I'd ask for some help from anyone who figures they've got Lexan fabrication down to a science!

>

> Yes, I have read up on some pointers from the internet, like scoring with a sheetrock knife, and ONLY using a special drillbit made for drilling into plastic, but is there any additonal tips and tricks you guys know?

>

> Like, is water needed for cooling to drill a hole, or is the bit all you need?

>

> Any useful pointers would be much appreciated.

>

> Thanks, Mike Welch....... windowless in SW Utah

> _________________________________________________________________

> Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.

> http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

>

_________________________________________________________________

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http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007

mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:50 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

I should mention I NOW have true Lexan to put on the doors, not acrylic.  I did not think Lexan was available in my area, but I found it (when I went to the store to replace the broken piece), and will use the proper product in the doors.

   I have the windshield from Travis, but I thought I'd try and get the door "glass" locally.  At that time, all I could find was plexiglass, and thought that it would be okay for the doors.  Not!!

  

   Anyway, I have the right stuff now.     Mike

  

 PS.  I'm headed to Missouri around Christmas to look around and see the sights.  Heard lots of good things about the area.

  

 Do Not Archive

Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in!  [quote][b]

rowedenny(at)windstream.n
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:58 am Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Mike,



The stepped Unibits work great on Lexan and leave no burr.

I cut all the curved lexan for my Mk-3 with a Dremel tool and cutting disks, 

than sanded the edges smooth with sandpaper.

Any straight cuts can be done on a sheet metal shear, deburr- deburr-deburr.

Don't peal the protective paper off till you have to.



Deny Rowe

russ(at)rkiphoto.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 4:58 am Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Mike

In working with Lexan, remember you canNOT polish out scratches  

successfully. Avoid them instead.

On Nov 18, 2007, at 1:38 AM, Mike Welch wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 I'm so gun-shy now, about wrecking more pieces, I wonder if I  

 should just buy the factory drill bit.  I guess if you have a  

 drawing of the correct shape of the cutting tip, then I ought to  

 try and make one, and do lots of practicing.  I know Richard said  

 true Lexan is pretty durable, but even still, there is a right way  

 and wrong way, and I'd prefer to just stay with the right way, at  

 this point.



 Thanks, I'll look forward to the picture in the morning,   Mike

> Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 00:27:20 -0600

> From: jindoguy(at)gmail.com

> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com

> Subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

>

> 

>

> Mike, I use the same grind for Lexan that I use for very soft metals.

> I touch the cutting edge of the drill flute so that the cutting face

> is parallel to the center axis of the drill. This flat face only has

> to be .02 to .03 wide. It makes the drill shave off the material  

> as it

> cuts and it doesn't get sucked through as the drill exits the sheet.

> Hope that makes sense. I have a sketch somewhere. I'll try to find it

> in the morning while I'm having my coffee transfusion.

> I know some on this list recommend aviation shears or big scissors  

> and

> that works great if you have really good arthritis drugs. My hands

> cramp up too badly for me to use them for anything more than short

> cuts. I like carbide grit saw blades, either round of jig saw style

> work fine.

>

> Rick

>

> On Nov 17, 2007 11:48 PM, Mike Welch  wrote:

>> 

>>

>>

>> Kolb builder guys,

>>

>> I began cutting the Lexan for my doors on the MkIII and managed  

>> to crack one. I wasn't trying to cut the exact fit, just sort of  

>> close, so I could handle the piece easier. But, a crack snapped a  

>> huge corner off and now the rest is too small to use, so I have  

>> to get another piece. Crud!! And seeing as how I screwed up one  

>> of the pieces, I thought I'd ask for some help from anyone who  

>> figures they've got Lexan fabrication down to a science!

>>

>> Yes, I have read up on some pointers from the internet, like  

>> scoring with a sheetrock knife, and ONLY using a special drillbit  

>> made for drilling into plastic, but is there any additonal tips  

>> and tricks you guys know?

>>

>> Like, is water needed for cooling to drill a hole, or is the bit  

>> all you need?

>>

>> Any useful pointers would be much appreciated.

>>

>> Thanks, Mike Welch....... windowless in SW Utah

>> _________________________________________________________________

>> Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.

>> http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html? 

>> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>

>



 _________________________________________________________________

 Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista® + Windows  

 Live™.

 http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx? 

 ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007

Richard Pike

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:07 am Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Make your screw or rivet holes slightly oversize. The attachment points 

ought to go through flat, don't put it in a bind by making it bend where 

the attachment goes through. If you use rivets, only use aluminum ones. 

Leave it a little room to expand and contract. And never allow Stits 

reducer, acetone, MEK or superglue to get close to it. Cutting Lexan, I 

lay a width of duct tape where I want to cut so the saber saw won't mar 

it, use a metal cutting blade and go for it. Dress the edges with the 

bench grinder, and then sandpaper, once again protecting the area 

adjacent to the edge with tape. Blow the chips away with air if the 

surface is uncovered, they will scratch the surface, and don't pull the 

covering material off until the last second.

I don't have any good methods for Plexiglas or acrylic, if it isn't 

Lexan, I don't want to fool with it, I leave that to the really careful 

people.

Richard Pike

MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)

Mike Welch wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

   Actually, you're right.  The first piece I just screwed up today was plexiglass.  But, years ago, when I installed the Lexan windshield on my MkIII, I evidently didn't do it correctly then, either.  I ended up getting tons of cracks off the mounting holes I drilled.

   So, after admitting I've not taken the fabrication correctly and seriously enough, I want to only proceed the right way.

   So, what have you got for me?   Tips, pointers, criticisms?  Hmm?         Mike W.

> Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 00:53:33 -0500

> From: richard(at)bcchapel.org

> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com

> Subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

>

> 

>

> Are you sure it's Lexan? Sounds like Plexiglas or acrylic. Lexan you can

> beat on it or bend the fool out of it and it ignores you.

>

> Richard Pike

> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)

>

> Mike Welch wrote:

>     

>> 

>>

>>

>> Kolb builder guys,

>>

>> I began cutting the Lexan for my doors on the MkIII and managed to crack one. I wasn't trying to cut the exact fit, just sort of close, so I could handle the piece easier. But, a crack snapped a huge corner off and now the rest is too small to use, so I have to get another piece. Crud!! And seeing as how I screwed up one of the pieces, I thought I'd ask for some help from anyone who figures they've got Lexan fabrication down to a science!

>>

>> Yes, I have read up on some pointers from the internet, like scoring with a sheetrock knife, and ONLY using a special drillbit made for drilling into plastic, but is there any additonal tips and tricks you guys know?

>>

>> Like, is water needed for cooling to drill a hole, or is the bit all you need?

>>

>> Any useful pointers would be much appreciated.

>>

>> Thanks, Mike Welch....... windowless in SW Utah

>> _________________________________________________________________

>> Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.

>> http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>       

>     

 _________________________________________________________________

 You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i’m Initiative now.

_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0

Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing.

Jim Baker

Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 181
Location: Sayre, PA

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:01 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

X-SpamReason %%SpamReason%%: 



 	  Quote: 	
		   I'm so gun-shy now, about wrecking more pieces,


	


Don't be.....



http://www.rplastics.com/plasticdrill.html



Really easy to do. I generally drill large enough to insert a brass 

grommet in a rubber grommet in the Lexan and let the Lexan float.



Jim Baker

580.788.2779

Elmore City, OK

mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:19 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Thanks for the tips, guys.  I think I'm on the right path now.  Especially since I am now working on Genuine Lexan.  The drill bit drawing Rick G. sent really helped, too.



I have practically mounted one complete door window.  Completely drilled, and now I have to do the final perimeter cut.  Thanks again.  I didn't realize the vast difference between Lexan and Plexiglass.  Oops.



Anyway, we back in bidniss.     Mike Welch

Do Not Archive

 	  Quote: 	
		   From: jlbaker(at)msbit.net

 To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com

 Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 13:58:54 -0600

 Subject: RE: cutting and drilling Lexan



 



 X-SpamReason %%SpamReason%%:



> I'm so gun-shy now, about wrecking more pieces,



 Don't be.....



 http://www.rplastics.com/plasticdrill.html



 Really easy to do. I generally drill large enough to insert a brass

 grommet in a rubber grommet in the Lexan and let the Lexan float.



 Jim Baker

 580.788.2779

 Elmore City, OK




	


_________________________________________________________________

You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i’m Initiative now.

slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:09 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Like Richard Pike says, tape the surface for protection.  Wide  

masking will do.

Mark with a black felt tip.  Cut with a good orbital saber saw.

Finish rougher areas or that need contouring with a belt sander, in  

line with the edge,

not across.  Finer touch up with a mill file.



Holes slightly oversize.  -Large aluminum fabric rivets worked well  

for me on the doors.

For the windshield I used stainless 10-32s into nutserts so I can pop  

it off if I want.

(My windshield posts are steel)



I also used GE MR2 scratch resistant sheet.  Still looks like new.  - 

expensive

but one sheet has provided my windshield, wing root fences, and doors.

Pleasant surprise for an old cheapskate.

BB

purplemoon99(at)bellsouth
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:18 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

If you are using Lexan and not Plexiglass you have nothing to be gun shy 

about lex. is easy to work with and plex. is a crap shoot... 

Joe N101HD

---

jb92563

Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 314
Location: Southern California

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:28 pm Post subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

Lexan is used on the canopy for a very good reason and you will be glad you installed Lexan instead of plexi the first time something hits your window or someone leans up on it for some reason.



Lexan has superb impact resistance.



Plexi will crack unless an expert installed it and even then maybe!



I tried a plexi canopy and had it cracked before I even layed a saw blade on it.....tricky stuff to work with unless you really know what you are doing.

_________________
Ray

Kolb UltraStar (Cuyuna UL-202)
Moni MotorGlider
Schreder HP-11 Glider
Grob 109 Motorglider

Do Not Archive

mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:54 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Ray, 



  As I said, I have LEXAN for the "windshield".  Got it from Travis.  But, large size sheets of Lexan are non-existant here in St. George.  I have to order it, and the shipping costs MORE than the piece does.

  Ol' Dopey me, I figured I could get by with stupid Plexiglass, just for the doors.  Nope.  Ainta gonna happen, no how!  I took the one remaining good sheet of Plexiglass back to Ace Hardware, and went to Home Depot, just to see what they had. HEY!!  They have genuine 3 foot X 6 foot pieces of Lexan.  The real stuff.

  Once I got the correct stuff home, I used all those good tips everyone was throwing at me, and now, one door is complete.  I'll install the Lexan on the other door tomorrow.



  Thanks for the concern.  There won't be a piece of Plexiglass on my plane.   By the way, in case anyone doesn't know, you CAN NOT clean Lexan with acetone.  Trust me on this one.

        

        Mike Welch

 	  Quote: 	
		   Subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

 From: jb92563(at)yahoo.com

 Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 13:28:17 -0800

 To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com



 



 Lexan is used on the canopy for a very good reason and you will be glad you installed Lexan instead of plexi the first time something hits your window or someone leans up on it for some reason.



 Lexan has superb impact resistance.



 Plexi will crack unless an expert installed it and even then maybe!



 I tried a plexi canopy and had it cracked before I even layed a saw blade on it.....tricky stuff to work with unless you really know what you are doing.



 --------

 Ray

 Riverside County, CA



 Do Not Archive





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147548#147548






	


_________________________________________________________________

Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista® + Windows Live™.

http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007

mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:54 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Ray, 



  As I said, I have LEXAN for the "windshield".  Got it from Travis.  But, large size sheets of Lexan are non-existant here in St. George.  I have to order it, and the shipping costs MORE than the piece does.

  Ol' Dopey me, I figured I could get by with stupid Plexiglass, just for the doors.  Nope.  Ainta gonna happen, no how!  I took the one remaining good sheet of Plexiglass back to Ace Hardware, and went to Home Depot, just to see what they had. HEY!!  They have genuine 3 foot X 6 foot pieces of Lexan.  The real stuff.

  Once I got the correct stuff home, I used all those good tips everyone was throwing at me, and now, one door is complete.  I'll install the Lexan on the other door tomorrow.



  Thanks for the concern.  There won't be a piece of Plexiglass on my plane.   By the way, in case anyone doesn't know, you CAN NOT clean Lexan with acetone.  Trust me on this one.

        

        Mike Welch

 	  Quote: 	
		   Subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

 From: jb92563(at)yahoo.com

 Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 13:28:17 -0800

 To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com



 



 Lexan is used on the canopy for a very good reason and you will be glad you installed Lexan instead of plexi the first time something hits your window or someone leans up on it for some reason.



 Lexan has superb impact resistance.



 Plexi will crack unless an expert installed it and even then maybe!



 I tried a plexi canopy and had it cracked before I even layed a saw blade on it.....tricky stuff to work with unless you really know what you are doing.



 --------

 Ray

 Riverside County, CA



 Do Not Archive





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147548#147548






	


_________________________________________________________________

Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.

http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:54 pm Post subject: cutting and drilling Lexan

Ray, 



  As I said, I have LEXAN for the "windshield".  Got it from Travis.  But, large size sheets of Lexan are non-existant here in St. George.  I have to order it, and the shipping costs MORE than the piece does.

  Ol' Dopey me, I figured I could get by with stupid Plexiglass, just for the doors.  Nope.  Ainta gonna happen, no how!  I took the one remaining good sheet of Plexiglass back to Ace Hardware, and went to Home Depot, just to see what they had. HEY!!  They have genuine 3 foot X 6 foot pieces of Lexan.  The real stuff.

  Once I got the correct stuff home, I used all those good tips everyone was throwing at me, and now, one door is complete.  I'll install the Lexan on the other door tomorrow.



  Thanks for the concern.  There won't be a piece of Plexiglass on my plane.   By the way, in case anyone doesn't know, you CAN NOT clean Lexan with acetone.  Trust me on this one.

        

        Mike Welch

 	  Quote: 	
		   Subject: Re: cutting and drilling Lexan

 From: jb92563(at)yahoo.com

 Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 13:28:17 -0800

 To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com



 



 Lexan is used on the canopy for a very good reason and you will be glad you installed Lexan instead of plexi the first time something hits your window or someone leans up on it for some reason.



 Lexan has superb impact resistance.



 Plexi will crack unless an expert installed it and even then maybe!



 I tried a plexi canopy and had it cracked before I even layed a saw blade on it.....tricky stuff to work with unless you really know what you are doing.



 --------

 Ray

 Riverside County, CA



 Do Not Archive





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147548#147548






	


_________________________________________________________________

Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.Download today it's FREE!

http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_112007

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