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ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest
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 Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:06 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
 |
|
He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through spar
and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But when I
overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain about a
1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any of you
experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
Thanks,
Art
701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
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bradfnp(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:59 am Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
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Art,
If the gap is symmetrical to the centerline of flight (eg; the aircraft) and
it is securely riveted to both sides of the ribs, I would say that you
shouldn't sweat it. I cant imagine that it will affect the flight
characteristics that mush to have the rudder 1.5mm longer than specs. The
only thing I can think of is yo might have to adjust the position of the
saddle much much much later in your build.
Brad Cohen
XL/TD
| Quote: | From: Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
To: Zenith Matornics list <zenith-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Rudder Nose Skin
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:05:25 -0800 (PST)
He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled
the holes through spar
and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of
the skin. But when I
overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both
nose ribs contain about a
1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in
flanges. Have any of you
experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
Thanks,
Art
701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
|
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 6:43 am Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
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Art,
One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
cleco check the result.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Art Olechowski wrote:
| Quote: |
He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through spar
and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But when I
overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain about a
1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any of you
experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
Thanks,
Art
701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
|
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ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:52 am Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
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Larry,
Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft of the
spar?
Art
--- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
Art,
One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
cleco check the result.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Art Olechowski wrote:
>
>
> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through
spar
> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But
when I
> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain
about a
> 1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any of
you
> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Art
> 701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
>
>
>
>
|
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:55 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
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Art,
If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
punched shim would hold the material
where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
for uneven surfaces.
Larry
do not archive
Art Olechowski wrote:
| Quote: |
Larry,
Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft of the
spar?
Art
--- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
>
>
> Art,
> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
> cleco check the result.
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> Art Olechowski wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through
>>
> spar
>
>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But
>>
> when I
>
>> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain
>>
> about a
>
>> 1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any of
>>
> you
>
>> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Art
>> 701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
|
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cndmovn(at)gmail.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 3:32 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
Art:
I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
Art,
If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
punched shim would hold the material
where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
for uneven surfaces.
Larry
do not archive
Art Olechowski wrote:
>
>
> Larry,
> Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft of the
> spar?
>
> Art
> --- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> Art,
>> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
>> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
>> cleco check the result.
>>
>> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>> Art Olechowski wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through
>>>
>> spar
>>
>>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But
>>>
>> when I
>>
>>> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain
>>>
>> about a
>>
>>> 1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any of
>>>
>> you
>>
>>> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Art
>>> 701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
|
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
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ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:16 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
I think my post was not clear enough. The gap I've experienced is in between the tip of the upper
and lower nose ribs and the LE of the skin. If you look cross sectionally down the leading edge
of the nose skin light can be seen between the apex of both rib tips and the nose skin. I'm not
seeing a how shim can work in this senario since the tip of the rib flange is tapered at the nose
and no rivets exist in that area to fasten the shim too?
--- Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
Art:
I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
>
>
> Art,
> If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
> getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
> you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
> punched shim would hold the material
> where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
> for uneven surfaces.
>
> Larry
> do not archive
>
>
> Art Olechowski wrote:
> >
> >
> > Larry,
> > Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft of
the
> > spar?
> >
> > Art
> > --- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Art,
> >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> >> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
> >> cleco check the result.
> >>
> >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> >>
> >> Art Olechowski wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through
> >>>
> >> spar
> >>
> >>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But
> >>>
> >> when I
> >>
> >>> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain
> >>>
> >> about a
> >>
> >>> 1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any
of
> >>>
> >> you
> >>
> >>> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Art
> >>> 701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
|
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cndmovn(at)gmail.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:01 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
I don't think that is an issue at all. No amount of wind force is
going to make that skin move.
I would just leave it.
On Nov 20, 2007 8:15 PM, Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
I think my post was not clear enough. The gap I've experienced is in between the tip of the upper
and lower nose ribs and the LE of the skin. If you look cross sectionally down the leading edge
of the nose skin light can be seen between the apex of both rib tips and the nose skin. I'm not
seeing a how shim can work in this senario since the tip of the rib flange is tapered at the nose
and no rivets exist in that area to fasten the shim too?
--- Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Art:
>
> I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
> the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
> the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
> rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
> between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
> better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
> kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
>
> Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
>
> On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Art,
> > If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
> > getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
> > you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
> > punched shim would hold the material
> > where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
> > for uneven surfaces.
> >
> > Larry
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > Art Olechowski wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Larry,
> > > Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft of
> the
> > > spar?
> > >
> > > Art
> > > --- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Art,
> > >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> > >> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
> > >> cleco check the result.
> > >>
> > >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> > >>
> > >> Art Olechowski wrote:
> > >>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through
> > >>>
> > >> spar
> > >>
> > >>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But
> > >>>
> > >> when I
> > >>
> > >>> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain
> > >>>
> > >> about a
> > >>
> > >>> 1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any
> of
> > >>>
> > >> you
> > >>
> > >>> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks,
> > >>> Art
> > >>> 701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Paul Riedlinger
> cndmovn(at)gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
|
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
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GLJSOJ1
Joined: 18 Aug 2007
Posts: 82
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:48 am Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
HI ART
JUST A QUESTION, DID YOU DRILL THE NOSE SKIN WITHOUT THE REAR SKIN IN PLACE. IF SO, THAT MIGHT HAVE CAUSED THE PROBLEM. IF I UNDERSTAND IT CORRECTLY, YOU MIGHT HAVE TO HAVE A SHIM BETWEENT HE RIB AND SKIN ALL THE WAY AROUND THE RIB. I DIDN'T HAVE THIS PROBLEM WITH MINE.
GLENN
| Quote: | Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 22:59:59 -0500
From: cndmovn(at)gmail.com
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder Nose Skin
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Riedlinger" <cndmovn(at)gmail.com>
I don't think that is an issue at all. No amount of wind force is
going to make that skin move.
I would just leave it.
On Nov 20, 2007 8:15 PM, Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
> I think my post was not clear enough. The gap I've experienced is in between the tip of the upper
> and lower nose ribs and the LE of the skin. If you look cross sectionally down the leading edge
> of the nose skin light can be seen between the apex of both rib tips and the nose skin. I'm not
> seeing a how shim can work in this senario since the tip of the rib flange is tapered at the nose
> and no rivets exist in that area to fasten the shim too?
>
> --- Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Riedlinger" <cndmovn(at)gmail.com>
>
> >
> > Art:
> >
> > I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
> > the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
> > the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
> > rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
> > between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
> > better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
> > kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
> >
> > Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
> >
> > On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
> > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
> > >
> > > Art,
> > > If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
> > > getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
> > > you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
> > > punched shim would hold the material
> > > where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
> > > for uneven surfaces.
> > >
> > > Larry
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > > Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net>
> > > >
> > > > Larry,
> > > > Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft of
> > the
> > > > spar?
> > > >
> > > > Art
> > > > --- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
> > > >>
> > > >> Art,
> > > >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> > > >> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
> > > >> cleco check the result.
> > > >>
> > > >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> > > >>
> > > >> Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes through
> > > >>>
> > > >> spar
> > > >>
> > > >>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But
> > > >>>
> > > >> when I
> > > >>
> > > >>> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs contain
> > > >>>
> > > >> about a
> > > >>
> > > >>> 1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any
> > of
> > > >>>
> > > >> you
> > > >>
> > > >>> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks,
> > > >>> Art
> > > >>> 701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
> > --
> > Paul Riedlinger
> > cndmovn(at)gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
>=======================
|
&g========================
You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i’m Initiative now. Join in! [quote][b]
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_________________
601XL N676L FLYING PHASE I
CHESAPEAKE VA |
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ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:38 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
Glenn,
No I did not, the rear skin overlapped the nose skin when I did the drilling. But I now know what
the culprit was, the top rib had an upward ramp at the tip which I discovered while filing the
nose skin flush to the top rib web. To correct this, I detached the rivets from the top rib and
enhanced the forward flutes to flatten the top rib. After doing so successfully the tip fell
further down angle of the LE of the nose skin thus creating the gap. The lower nose rib just
needs to be pulled in tighter and re-clecoed and it appears it will be good to go. I'm not happy
with the kit part but I'm also to blame for not thoroughly inspecting the part prior to drilling.
So my choices are A)leave it as is B)buy a replacement part from Zen(not likely), or
C)scratchbuild a new one with the others. Most likely I will do option 'C' just cause I want it
done right.
do not archive
Art
--- GLENN JOHNSON <gljno10(at)HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
| Quote: |
HI ART
JUST A QUESTION, DID YOU DRILL THE NOSE SKIN WITHOUT THE REAR SKIN IN PLACE. IF SO, THAT MIGHT
HAVE CAUSED THE PROBLEM. IF I UNDERSTAND IT CORRECTLY, YOU MIGHT HAVE TO HAVE A SHIM BETWEENT
HE RIB AND SKIN ALL THE WAY AROUND THE RIB. I DIDN'T HAVE THIS PROBLEM WITH MINE.
GLENN> Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 22:59:59 -0500> From: cndmovn(at)gmail.com> To:
zenith-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: Rudder Nose Skin> > --> Zenith-List message
posted by: "Paul Riedlinger" <cndmovn(at)gmail.com>> > I don't think that is an issue at all. No
amount of wind force is> going to make that skin move.> > I would just leave it.> > On Nov 20,
2007 8:15 PM, Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:> > --> Zenith-List message posted
by: Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net>> >> > I think my post was not clear enough. The gap
I've experienced is in between the tip of the upper> > and lower nose ribs and the LE of the
skin. If you look cross sectionally down the leading edge> > of the nose skin light can be seen
between the apex of both rib tips and the nose skin. I'm not> > seeing a how shim can work in
this senario since the tip of the rib flange is tapered at the nose> > and no rivets exist in
that area to fasten the shim too?> >> > --- Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> wrote:> >> > >
> > I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for> > > the wing walk
were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped> > > the wing over, the ribs were
recessed by about 3/32" so that when> > > rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a
small shim> > > between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look> > > better.
Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing> > > kit as the top rear skins were
drilled wrong as well.> > >> > > Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!> > >> > > On Nov
20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:> > > > --> Zenith-List message
posted by: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>> > > >> > > > Art,> > > > If you have an
inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without> > > > getting a dimple, a shim can be
made the thickness> > > > you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin> >
> > punched shim would hold the material> > > > where you want without that dented look that
some pulled rivets cause> > > > for uneven surfaces.> > > >> > > > Larry> > > > do not archive>
> > >> > > >> > > > Art Olechowski wrote:> > > > >
Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net>> > > > >> > > > > Larry,> > > > > Can you elaborate some,
the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft of> > > the> > > > > spar?> > >
> >> > > > > Art> > > > > --- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:> > > > >> > > > >> >
> > >>
> >> Art,> > > > >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.> > > > >>
Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and> > > > >> cleco check the
result.> > > > >>> > > > >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com> > > > >>> > > > >>
Art Olechowski wrote:> > > > >>> > > > >>>
<ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net>> > > > >>>> > > > >>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the
rudder. When I drilled the holes through> > > > >>>> > > > >> spar> > > > >>> > > > >>> and nose
skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin. But> > > > >>>> > >
> >> when I> > > > >>> > > > >>> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in
place both nose ribs contain> > > > >>>> > > > >> about a> > > > >>> > > > >>> 1.5mm gap in
between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have any> > > of> > > > >>>>
> > > >> you> > > > >>> > > > >>> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or
recommendations?> > > > >>>> > > > >>>> > > > >>> Thanks,> > > > >>> Art> > > > >>> 701 Scratch
builder .0005% Complete> > > > >>>> > > > >>>> > > > >>>> > > > >>>> > > > >>>> > > > >>> > > >
>>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >>
> >> > >> >> > > --> > > Paul Riedlinger> > > cndmovn(at)gmail.com> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> > > > -- > Paul Riedlinger> cndmov======> > >
_________________________________________________________________
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ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:56 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
Paul,
I think I'll build me a new one and back drill through the existing skin holes to make it right.
I agree probably does not matter either way.
do not archive
Art
--- Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
I don't think that is an issue at all. No amount of wind force is
going to make that skin move.
I would just leave it.
On Nov 20, 2007 8:15 PM, Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> I think my post was not clear enough. The gap I've experienced is in between the tip of the
upper
> and lower nose ribs and the LE of the skin. If you look cross sectionally down the leading
edge
> of the nose skin light can be seen between the apex of both rib tips and the nose skin. I'm
not
> seeing a how shim can work in this senario since the tip of the rib flange is tapered at the
nose
> and no rivets exist in that area to fasten the shim too?
>
> --- Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
> > Art:
> >
> > I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
> > the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
> > the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
> > rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
> > between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
> > better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
> > kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
> >
> > Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
> >
> > On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Art,
> > > If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
> > > getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
> > > you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
> > > punched shim would hold the material
> > > where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
> > > for uneven surfaces.
> > >
> > > Larry
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > > Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Larry,
> > > > Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft
of
> > the
> > > > spar?
> > > >
> > > > Art
> > > > --- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Art,
> > > >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> > > >> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
> > > >> cleco check the result.
> > > >>
> > > >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> > > >>
> > > >> Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes
through
> > > >>>
> > > >> spar
> > > >>
> > > >>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the skin.
But
> > > >>>
> > > >> when I
> > > >>
> > > >>> overlapped the nose skin on top the rear skin and clecoed in place both nose ribs
contain
> > > >>>
> > > >> about a
> > > >>
> > > >>> 1.5mm gap in between the skin. Both ribs have all the holes drilled in flanges. Have
any
> > of
> > > >>>
> > > >> you
> > > >>
> > > >>> experienced this and if so whats are the resolutions or recommendations?
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks,
> > > >>> Art
> > > >>> 701 Scratch builder .0005% Complete
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
> > --
> > Paul Riedlinger
> > cndmovn(at)gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
|
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ter_turn(at)yahoo.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 8:10 am Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
Art, the easiest thing might be a couple of -90 degree bent strips about 1/2 inch
wide & taped to each rib tip where needed. Move the strips (shims) around until satisfactory then clamp & drill the top half through the top of the rib and put one A4 rivet through the shims on top of each rib. Clear as mud?
Terry
Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: Art Olechowski
Paul,
I think I'll build me a new one and back drill through the existing skin holes to make it right.
I agree probably does not matter either way.
do not archive
Art
--- Paul Riedlinger wrote:
[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Riedlinger"
I don't think that is an issue at all. No amount of wind force is
going to make that skin move.
I would just leave it.
On Nov 20, 2007 8:15 PM, Art Olechowski wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Art Olechowski
>
> I think my post was not clear enough. The gap I've experienced is in between the tip of the
upper
> and lower nose ribs and the LE of the skin. If you look cross sectionally down the leading
edge
> of the nose skin light can be seen between the apex of both rib tips and the nose skin. I'm
not
> seeing a how shim can work in this senario since the tip of the rib flange is tapered at the
nose
> and no rivets exist in that area to fasten the shim too?
>
> --- Paul Riedlinger wrote:
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Paul Riedlinger"
>
> >
> > Art:
> >
> > I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
> > the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
> > the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
> > rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
> > between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
> > better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
> > kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
> >
> > Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
> >
> > On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland wrote:
> > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland
> > >
> > > Art,
> > > If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
> > > getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
> > > you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
> > > punched shim would hold the material
> > > where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
> > > for uneven surfaces.
> > >
> > > Larry
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > > Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Art Olechowski
> > > >
> > > > Larry,
> > > > Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes aft
of
> > the
> > > > spar?
> > > >
> > > > Art
> > > > --- LarryMcFarland wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> --> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland
> > > >>
> > > >> Art,
> > > >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> > > >> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
> > > >> cleco check the result.
> > > >>
> > > >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> > > >>
> > > >> Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> --> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. [quote][b]
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ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.ne
Guest
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:32 pm Post subject: Rudder Nose Skin |
|
|
Terry,
Good idea thanks for your input I believe Larry M. was refering to the same type of mod.
Not sure if I'll mod or just build a new rib and shift it forward slightly to close the gap.
Art
--- Terry Turnquist <ter_turn(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
| Quote: | Art, the easiest thing might be a couple of -90 degree bent strips about 1/2 inch
wide & taped to each rib tip where needed. Move the strips (shims) around until satisfactory
then clamp & drill the top half through the top of the rib and put one A4 rivet through the
shims on top of each rib. Clear as mud?
Terry
Art Olechowski <ifly4fun2(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Olechowski
Paul,
I think I'll build me a new one and back drill through the existing skin holes to make it right.
I agree probably does not matter either way.
do not archive
Art
--- Paul Riedlinger wrote:
>
>
> I don't think that is an issue at all. No amount of wind force is
> going to make that skin move.
>
> I would just leave it.
>
> On Nov 20, 2007 8:15 PM, Art Olechowski wrote:
> >
> >
> > I think my post was not clear enough. The gap I've experienced is in between the tip of the
> upper
> > and lower nose ribs and the LE of the skin. If you look cross sectionally down the leading
> edge
> > of the nose skin light can be seen between the apex of both rib tips and the nose skin. I'm
> not
> > seeing a how shim can work in this senario since the tip of the rib flange is tapered at the
> nose
> > and no rivets exist in that area to fasten the shim too?
> >
> > --- Paul Riedlinger wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > Art:
> > >
> > > I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
> > > the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
> > > the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
> > > rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
> > > between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
> > > better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
> > > kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
> > >
> > > Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
> > >
> > > On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Art,
> > > > If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
> > > > getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
> > > > you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
> > > > punched shim would hold the material
> > > > where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
> > > > for uneven surfaces.
> > > >
> > > > Larry
> > > > do not archive
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Larry,
> > > > > Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the rib flange holes
aft
> of
> > > the
> > > > > spar?
> > > > >
> > > > > Art
> > > > > --- LarryMcFarland wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Art,
> > > > >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> > > > >> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful and
> > > > >> cleco check the result.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I drilled the holes
> through
> > > > >>>
> > > > >> spar
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with inside of the
skin.
---------------------------------
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