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Engine Choices

 
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apilot2(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:23 pm    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to snuff, much less the airframe.
Thoughts?
Comments?
[quote][b]


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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:40 pm    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

This has been on my mind a bit lately as well. If anybody has any ideas
on this I'm all ears. Would there be enough cooling airflow with the
aircraft tethered on the ground, uncowled?

Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/

Kelly McMullen wrote:
Quote:
Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before
flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new
airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that
isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing
out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want
to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to
snuff, much less the airframe.
Thoughts?
Comments?
*
*


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speckter(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:25 am    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the best way IMHO. Don’t forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.

Gary
40274


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Engine Choices


Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to snuff, much less the airframe.
Thoughts?
Comments?
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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:48 am    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult
would it be to fabricate?

Deems

gary wrote:
Quote:

Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine
that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to
cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent
the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the
airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can
thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to
sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the
best way IMHO. Don’t forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or
other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.

Gary

40274

------------------------------------------------------------------------

*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
McMullen
*Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Engine Choices

Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before
flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new
airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that
isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing
out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want
to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to
snuff, much less the airframe.
Thoughts?
Comments?

*

*


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speckter(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:52 am    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

I do not have any pix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has
straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes
from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has
reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels.

Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the
engine shop and measure.

Gary
40274

--


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RV10 4JF



Joined: 30 Nov 2007
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Hi all,

I've been lurking here for some time. I am hoping to order a tail kit at Sun n Fun 08.

When I overhauled my TSIO-520 I made a hood so I could do an on aircraft engine run-in, check engine parameters and setup the FI pressures. Setting up the pressures is an involved process and time consuming.

I made a hood so the engine got proper air flow past the cylinder. In my case, I made it out of plywood and metal flashing from Home Depot. I then set it on my engine baffles and tied it to the engine. It worked pretty well. I followed an article I found on the subject of ground running an engine.

I will take a picture tomorrow and see if I can post it.

JF


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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 7:39 am    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

When you guys get one constructed and go to test it you should have a cam corder running just in case something unexpected happens, like the whole thing flies away, hits the windscreen, tumbles over the top of the plane, damages the tail cone and then takes out the vertical stabilizer and then lands on the horizontal stab.

At least with the film you could send it in to America's funniest home videos and win the prize and pay for a new plane.

JOhn G. 409 Just thinking out load

[quote] From: speckter(at)comcast.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Engine Choices
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 09:09:24 -0500

--> RV10-List message posted by: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>

I do not have any pix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has
straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes
from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has
reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels.

Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the
engine shop and measure.

Gary
40274

--


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carlosh(at)sec-engr.com
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:44 am    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Here's a site with a picture. Second to the last pic at bottom of page.
No affiliation...just a picture.

http://www.epi-eng.com/EPI_SrvcTOC.htm

Carlos in AZ
Do not archive

gary wrote:
[quote]

I do not have any pix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has
straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes
from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has
reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels.

Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the
engine shop and measure.

Gary
40274

--


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GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:54 pm    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

I sent a note to Delta Hawk recently...and got this reply from Rip...fyi for you all...I asked for an update since it's been a few years since I cruised their site and noticed that they had updated it recently...was wondering if they were any closer to building and shipping...seem it's the maybe answer...but I really hope they do deliver in 2008 to someone...

Patrick

Our current work on the DeltaHawk engine is focused on final testing of production level parts and the endurance testing of the engine as a unit. That testing has uncovered a couple of issues that were not evident in some of the previous R&D components.

As part of moving towards production, we changed our casting supplier from an R&D level source to a production level source. Testing has uncovered some unsatisfactory issues with some parts, and modifications have been made to both design and process to resolve the problems. We believe we are close to resolution, although the issue will not be closed until all testing is complete.

The result of these issues is a slip to our schedule, with the exact amount of slippage not known until final testing is complete. We will communicate an update to our plan at that time. We still believe we will be shipping engines in the first half of 2008.

Thank you for your interest in DeltaHawk engines. If you have further questions, please let me know.

Sincerely,
Rip Edmundson
DeltaHawk Engines, Inc.
Racine, Wisconsin USA
rip(at)deltahawkengines.com

Check out AOL Money & Finance's list of the hottest products and top money wasters of 2007.
[quote][b]


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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:55 pm    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Sounds great for the self-overhauler.

The easy way is for the person just buying an engine to have
it run by the place that built it for them. Aerosport ran
mine as part of their procedures, so when I got it, the timing
was perfect, the fuel flow and pressures were perfect, and
all was well. They even document it at intervals and
provide you with the paperwork.

But, if you're a DIY guy on the rebuilding, you did just
great.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV10 4JF wrote:
Quote:


Hi all,

I've been lurking here for some time. I am hoping to order a tail kit
at Sun n Fun 08.

When I overhauled my TSIO-520 I made a hood so I could do an on
aircraft engine run-in, check engine parameters and setup the FI
pressures. Setting up the pressures is an involved process and time
consuming.

I made a hood so the engine got proper air flow past the cylinder. In
my case, I made it out of plywood and metal flashing from Home Depot.
I then set it on my engine baffles and tied it to the engine. It
worked pretty well. I followed an article I found on the subject of
ground running an engine.

I will take a picture tomorrow and see if I can post it.

JF




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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149634#149634







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ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 2:09 pm    Post subject: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Thanks for that laugh John, I had a visual of that as I read your post.
Rick Sked
40185 do not archive
---


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RV10 4JF



Joined: 30 Nov 2007
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Choices Reply with quote

Attached are a couple of pictures of my homemade engine hood. Plywood sides, 1x and 2x structural wood for the frame and metal flashing. Construction adhesive was used on all mating surfaces, roofing nails for the metal, duck tape and high temp RTV to seal the joints. Simple but effective. It must be securely attached to the engine. I set it on my engine baffles and did my engine run in prior to the engine break in. The article I followed recommends at least ½ distance from spinner to tip of prop.

BTW, for my overhaul I have a 3 ring binder where I listed all part and serial numbers for all components FWF. I also documented my engine measurements, run in and break in info. The binder comes in handy if I ever have to research something for a Service Letter, Service Bulletin or AD. He who buys my plane will also get more than just a log book.

JF


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