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Paul Valovich
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 75
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Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:21 am Post subject: -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
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Tried this on VAF but got no response.
I hope to hang the engine this weekend, so want to punch as many firewall holes as I can before mounting. All was going well IAW Vans Firewall Forward instructions til I got to the engine control cables, where I was referenced to Drawing 21. There, I observed a serious caution about making precise measurements using coat hanger wire forward, and "Typical" locations for the holes. Anyone have words regarding their experience? Is this one of those "TLAR" (That Looks About Right) measurements, or do I have to get it to a gnat's a**? If the latter, what is that?
I have an Aerosport IO-360 horizantal induction engine and a Vans delux RV-8 throttle quandrant.
Paul Valovich
N192NM LuJaRo
Ridgecrest, CA
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klwerner(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:18 am Post subject: -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
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Paul,
You'll know a gnat when one bite's you! But let me assure you that a gnat is so small that the proverbial gnat's a** equals into a very precise measurement for your RV building experience...
Konrad,
do not archive
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hooverra(at)verizon.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 12:42 pm Post subject: -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
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Paul,
I cannot speak to the 8A specifically but my experience with this
issue on the 7A may be helpful.
1. I connected a number of items prior to routing the controls. Mistake!!
If I had it to do over I would have hung the engine, located the cable
penetrations and then removed the Engine along with the mount to drill
and finish the holes. (A sawhorse under the tail and some sand bags will
lift the nose so that the mount can be removed engine and all.) Try that
on a 7 or 8!!
2. Vans instructions are generic and probably do not include the
specific combination of parts you will be using. Sensors, Gascolator,
Relays, Ignition, back-up battery, parking brake valve, grounds .... All
of these items will need a home, some will need firewall mods that are
easier done while the firewall is flat on the bench. Of course that is
only possible with very precise planning!!
3. I probably would have saved some bloodshed and aggravation if I had
planned better and then removed the engine and mount to allow finishing
the firewall mods.
4. As for the precise location of penetrations I carefully located and
drilled for the throttle cable (may have been mixture) only to find that
it was too high on the interior. I ended up modifying the heater outlet
box. So measure twice (or more and cut once).
5. I did leave the top skin off until almost all of the plumbing and
wiring was complete, I was therefore able to get to both sides of the
firewall with some stretching.
We are all building production prototypes. The production model always
goes much faster. If you can find someone using the same goodies as you
are then their information may be more precise.
Good luck!
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A (working on wheel pants)
hooverra at verizon dot net
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n616tb(at)btsapps.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:00 pm Post subject: -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
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I would have to agree with this analysis. I installed my engine (-6) before
any holes were located on the firewall. For the most part this was easy
enough. The control cables on the other hand were a real bummer. I
intended to install little eyeball fittings that clamped on the control
cable. This was terribly difficult with the engine in place and I abandoned
the idea. Most everything else is easy enough to drill or mount.
However be really cautious about where the exhaust system, and other parts
are located if they are not installed on the engine when you decide on
routing of the cables. For me the ones that were important to get in the
right spot were the prop control and the throttle. Some of the others have
more room to curve a little if not lined up just right.
Just my thoughts from my experience.
Tim
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