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Mike Whisky
Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 336
Location: Switzerland
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 Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:21 am Post subject: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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Hello,
did you guys cut the CB-1001a front baffle in order to fit the prop governor through the cut out hole?
Michael
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RV-10 builder (flying)
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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| Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:57 am Post subject: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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Yes, a little. You don't want to remove too much, though, because you
don't want to lose your cooling air through that hole.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 10, 2008, at 3:21 AM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872
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| Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:44 am Post subject: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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Yep, try to trim in the shape of the governor, so that the ramp
kind of form fits to the governor's needs. Leave enough clearance
though to guarantee the lever and bolt won't hang up.
Then, once you have the slot there and it's wide enough, glass in the
ramp ends so the air can't flow up through that area and under
the ramps. You should be able to seal that area pretty well,
even with the clearance hole. The sealing of the air ramps is
a big key to getting things done right.
Tim
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
| Quote: |
Hello,
did you guys cut the CB-1001a front baffle in order to fit the prop governor through the cut out hole?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
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davelammers(at)mchsi.com
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| Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:19 am Post subject: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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Michael,
You bet--seems that there is no other way.
Dave Lammers
finishing
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
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Mike Whisky
Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 336
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:31 pm Post subject: Re: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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Great, thank you guys!
Did I mention this before...I love this forum.
Michael
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RV-10 builder (flying)
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:37 am Post subject: Re: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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Hey Tim,
Our finishing kit is supposed to be shipped on Mon. and when we're actually at that stage I'm sure I'll understand your comments about sealing in the ramps better. In the meantime, I went back and surfed through your site to see if I could find a picture. The only one I found so far is just after you fitted the cowl and trimmed around the governor. Any chance you have close ups of the sealing?
Also, I ran across a reference to your adding toner to the fiberglass on the windshield to aluminum bond. I'll try to retrace to that stage to see what that's about, or maybe that's in the finish kit too.
I'll also search your site for "bondo" ... I have many years experience with cars -- (first plane!) is there a reason why folks don't just use a thin skim coat of bondo over these fiberglass joints to smooth them up? It's so easy, there must be SOMETHING wrong with it!
Later, - Lew
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non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed ! |
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872
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| Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:06 am Post subject: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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Hi Lew,
Towards the bottom of this page are some photos:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20061022/index.html
Yeah, they're ugly. I was long past the point of not enjoying
epoxy at that time, but it did end up sealing well. In short,
when you put the curved ramps on the cowl, you now have a tunnel
for air to go from the high pressure top side, out to the low
pressure part of the cowl outside of the baffling, without
ever traveling through the cylinders. You can lose a major amount
of air before it even gets near the cylinders. So, just sealing
it up good fixes that problem.
The toner thing is pretty straightforward. Just a way to darken
the epoxy. Some people paint the windshield, which might be great
too. You just need to make sure you have just the right
line and stick to it if you do that, so that it's nice and straight
and your topcoat of paint covers the same area. I'm not sure how
much better or worse the adhesion of the topcoat would be to
paint on plexi as opposed to glassing black-tinted epoxy right
to the windshield. I'm happy though. Just broke open an old
copier/printer cartridge and poured some into the epoxy. I tried
fabric dyes for red/green on another project, and that didn't
work well....too grainy.
As for Bondo, my guess is that it's because plain bondo is perhaps
less fine and more prone to pinholes than some of the other
glazes available, and maybe not being such a premium product it may
be more prone to chipping or shrinkage. I'm sure though that in
the right places it isn't a big deal. But, I think you'll have
a hard time beating the use of epoxy with fairing filler if you
want strength over those joints, and you can even glass in a strip
of light glass over the joint to prevent cracks too. I didn't
do that and I don't have cracking, but everyone's mileage may
vary.
Tim
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Lew Gallagher wrote:
| Quote: |
<lewgall(at)charter.net>
Hey Tim,
Our finishing kit is supposed to be shipped on Mon. and when we're
actually at that stage I'm sure I'll understand your comments about
sealing in the ramps better. In the meantime, I went back and surfed
through your site to see if I could find a picture. The only one I
found so far is just after you fitted the cowl and trimmed around the
governor. Any chance you have close ups of the sealing?
Also, I ran across a reference to your adding toner to the fiberglass
on the windshield to aluminum bond. I'll try to retrace to that
stage to see what that's about, or maybe that's in the finish kit
too.
I'll also search your site for "bondo" ... I have many years
experience with cars -- (first plane!) is there a reason why folks
don't just use a thin skim coat of bondo over these fiberglass joints
to smooth them up? It's so easy, there must be SOMETHING wrong with
it!
Later, - Lew
-------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing
kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157613#157613
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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:07 am Post subject: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
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I'll also search your site for "bondo" ... I have many years experience with
cars -- (first plane!) is there a reason why folks don't just use a thin
skim coat of bondo over these fiberglass joints to smooth them up? It's so
easy, there must be SOMETHING wrong with it!
weight! using microballoons and epoxy weighs less.
Pascal
---
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