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Coax stripping

 
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John Ackerman



Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 130
Location: Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:02 pm    Post subject: Coax stripping Reply with quote

Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping?

I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic
system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. There
are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 feet and
all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are routed more or
less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly could be a
disaster, or at least quite expensive.

My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for depth
of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts RG-400 like a
charm with very little adjustment or learning required. However...
First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That
corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs.
Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is
0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The
cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is
0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length. Could
it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly critical,
because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units that specify
the lengths that they cut, or any that allow adjustment of the
exposed insulator length, although some, including mine, seem to be
adjustable for length of exposed braid?
Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no
spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to be
clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this common? Am I
missing something about fitting the conductor into the pin? Also, the
spec for the exposed center conductor length is 0.100" (PE4044) or
0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin will accept at least
0.180". Hmmm...
Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated.
John Ackerman 40458
trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid.


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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:53 pm    Post subject: Coax stripping Reply with quote

The best advice I can think of is to buy a couple of sacrificial
connectors and crimp some scrap and see what you think. I used some
TNC connectors by Cambridge, I think, and for me, the stripper worked
great and everything went together pretty much with just the right
lengths. The connectors and pins were made for RG-400, and every
strand fit in the pin just fine. Perhaps the connectors you're
using aren't perfect, but I'm not sure at all. But, doing some
tests might be a good idea.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Ackerman wrote:
Quote:


Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping?

I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic system
that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. There are 4
antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 feet and all four
need to be matched in length. Two of them are routed more or less
irreversibly, so one error in final assembly could be a disaster, or at
least quite expensive.

My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for depth of
cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts RG-400 like a charm
with very little adjustment or learning required. However...
First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That corresponds
nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs. Pasternack Enterprises
model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is 0.300" and PE4044 straight
male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation
exposed. The Pasternack spec is 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to
adjust that length. Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is
not terribly critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any
units that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow
adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some, including
mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid?
Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no spec
on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to be clipped
to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this common? Am I missing
something about fitting the conductor into the pin? Also, the spec for
the exposed center conductor length is 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125
(PE4450), but it appears that the pin will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm...
Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated.
John Ackerman 40458
trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid.






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ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:27 pm    Post subject: Coax stripping Reply with quote

John,

Your in the ballpark, there should be just a smidge...(a thousandths or two) showing between the pin bottom flange and the top of the nylon inner insulator. If it is too short the pin will not engage the inner portion of the connector, you will almost hear and feel it click into place as you slide it into the connector. As Tim says sacrafice a piece of coax and a connector and see. Most BNC/TNC connectors come with a detailed measurement of inner conductor, inner insulator and outer insulator measurments. On my stripper, I measured each blade and adjusted them to the given measurements. Mine has a hex screw for each to adjust. It has worked like a charm since the inital setup.

Rick S.

---


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John Ackerman



Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 130
Location: Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:38 am    Post subject: Coax stripping Reply with quote

Hi Rick!
Thanks for the post.
Where do you find a stripper that adjust for length (as opposed to
depth) of cut? I'd have to move the blade 1/16". That's a lot!
I've made test connectors with some spare stuff BNCs that _look_ OK
to my unpractised eye, but the dimensions might (probably would) be
different and the right angle TNCs are not cheap.
I'm gonna pursue this with the connector vendor.
Best
John

On Jan 24, 2008, at 10:22 PM, Rick Sked wrote:

[quote]

John,

Your in the ballpark, there should be just a smidge...(a
thousandths or two) showing between the pin bottom flange and the
top of the nylon inner insulator. If it is too short the pin will
not engage the inner portion of the connector, you will almost hear
and feel it click into place as you slide it into the connector. As
Tim says sacrafice a piece of coax and a connector and see. Most
BNC/TNC connectors come with a detailed measurement of inner
conductor, inner insulator and outer insulator measurments. On my
stripper, I measured each blade and adjusted them to the given
measurements. Mine has a hex screw for each to adjust. It has
worked like a charm since the inital setup.

Rick S.

---


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John Ackerman



Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 130
Location: Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 10:02 am    Post subject: Coax stripping Reply with quote

Outcome:

I worked with Pasternack, and found that the stripped lengths that
my stripper (and most others, I'd wager) gives are well off optimum,
but OK. They will give a reliable connection, but are not what the
data sheets specify. It seems you have to have worked with this stuff
to know what you can get away with.

The center conductor insertion issue is strictly a matter of
developing good technique. It is very easy to bend or displace one or
more strands of the center conductor of RG400. That makes it very
hard to slide the pin over it, so considerable care is required not
to damage the bundle of strands . Although bent stands can be combed
back, and the bundle can be made round by twisting slightly (it tends
to flatten if {when?} you clip it to length), these remedies are hard
to do and often don't work.

Thanks to Rick and Tim for their quick and accurate replies.

John Ackerman 40458
trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid.
On Jan 24, 2008, at 8:17 PM, John Ackerman wrote:

Quote:


Oops - 2 antennae, four cables (two per antenna)
> Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping?
>
> I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic
> system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length.
> There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16
> feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are
> routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly
> could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive.
>
> My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for
> depth of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts
> RG-400 like a charm with very little adjustment or learning
> required. However...
> First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That
> corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs.
> Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is
> 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The
> cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is
> 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length.
> Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly
> critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units
> that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow
> adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some,
> including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid?
> Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no
> spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to
> be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this
> common? Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into
> the pin? Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is
> 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin
> will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm...
> Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated.
> John Ackerman 40458
>


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:46 pm    Post subject: Coax stripping Reply with quote

John,

Sorry for not getting back BACK to you. My strippers are the same ones Dan Checkoway posted on his site, here's the link http://www.rvproject.com/20041005.html

The blade depth is adjustable by hex head screw, the blades can be relocated to different slots depending on the strip you want. Mine came preset for RG-400 and has worked flawlessly from day one. Just for giggles I went out and checked the measurement's and they were right there for what the package on the BNC/TNC connectors called for.These were fairly expensive connectors in comparison to others I had priced, like $12 each for Ampehnol.

Hung the prop today....now the neighbors think it's an airboat instead of a sail boat Smile

Rick S.
40185
---


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