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AA Overhead console retrofitting

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Mike Whisky

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 336
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:09 pm Post subject: AA Overhead console retrofitting

Hi guys,



did anyone fit the AA overhead panel ofter the cabin top was on?

If yes please lat me know hoe much effort it was and what are the possible pitfalls.

Any idea what the additional weight is?



Thanks

Michael

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RV-10 builder (flying)
#511

bcondrey

Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 580

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 8:18 pm Post subject: AA Overhead console retrofitting

I did, not a big deal.  Would have been easier with the top off and

upside down though.  Biggest difference is how you apply pressure to the

OH console while the epoxy cures.  If the top isn't installed yet you

can just weight it down.  Otherwise you wind up cutting 1x2s or similar

to fit between the floor/seat pans and the edges of the OH console.  You

could probably also drill a series of holes and use clecos.



Bob #40105



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AirMike

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:15 pm Post subject: Overhead console retrofitting

I am not putting in an overhead console, but I did install the two rear windows and the ceiling upholstery before permanently installing the cabin top. If the cabin top is not installed yet do it now.



I cannot imagine the extra effort and contortions doing it upside down.

It was soooooo much easier to fit the windows off the fuse.

_________________
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.

ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 7:09 am Post subject: AA Overhead console retrofitting

Mike,



Any issues with the windows flexing or stressing from the top flexing when installing the top after putting them in while the top is off?



Rick S.

40185

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raddatz

Joined: 08 Feb 2008
Posts: 20
Location: alabama

Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:44 pm Post subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting

Michael,

I have installed two AA overheads that where after the fact deals, Cut off the front of it where it dips and also cut off the entire back lip which is to long anyway and when your all done with the install you will use the Vans wing root seal or on the 10 its the same seal that goes under the Hor. stab. Now where the drop down is from going from the front cabin to back cut out a big relief so we can pull the back overhead up to the cabin.  once you have a fit, drill through the overhead and into the first layer of cabin tub right up front just off the rollbar with a #40 drillbit and cleco it up there then go to the back cabin right after the hump and drill and put cleco's about every 8 inches right to the back bulkhead remember to only drill through the first layer, believe me you will know when that happens. Also you will not need any cleco's after the front two in the front cabin because you will be using spring clamps down along the door frame. Now If everything looks good take a marker and trace the outline of your overhead on the cabin  take out the overhead and sand everything so the epoxy will bind thats why you put the mark on the overhead so you would know where to sand. Now get in you truck and run to the local tractor supply and buy a large horse syringe of coarse with no needle and go buy some epoxy and cab-o-sil mix up a batch and make it thick put it in the syringe and spread it around the overhead now cleco and clamp it up also remember to spread some drop clothes in the plane for drips. any problems call me at 256-443-1915 Steve Raddatz

raddatz

Joined: 08 Feb 2008
Posts: 20
Location: alabama

Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:50 pm Post subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting

I forgot when everything dries you can glass in the relief you cut between the front and back cabin and you can finish the edge how you want, we use a single layer of 2 inch glass tape and Z glass the blend after.

Mike Whisky

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 336
Location: Switzerland

Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 1:26 am Post subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting

Great Thanks Steve for the explanation.



Michael

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RV-10 builder (flying)
#511

Lew Gallagher

Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC

Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 6:39 am Post subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting

About overhead consoles:  I went to the junk yard and picked up the overhead out of a late model Chevy Blazer last weekend (it comes out with three screws) -- complete with wiring harness, front and rear left/right spots, three compartments, dome light, AND apparently a compass and temp display ... for $25.  For that, I'll make it work!



Later, - Lew

_________________
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !

Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 7:23 am Post subject: AA Overhead console retrofitting

How much does it weigh, Lew?



Jack Phillips

Still waiting for my SB Wing Kit

#40610

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Lew Gallagher

Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 4:26 pm Post subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting

OK Jack, I took my digital postage scales over and weighed the Blazer console -- 4 lbs. 4 oz.  That's as is, probably could be stripped down some.  I'll attach a couple of pictures.



Here's a comment I think is worth sharing from Paul:



"Hi Lew,

    We have the overhead console you describe and I was very excited by the prospects of outside air temp display but my bubble was burst. It seems you also need the vehicle ECU to handle the input from the RTD probe and the output to the overhead display. I learned a lot about it by searching the web. I still really like the console, though. I swapped out the resistive filament bulbs with LED's and have the current draw down to less than .1 amps.

Paul Hahn

#40203"

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_________________
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !

Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 4:47 am Post subject: AA Overhead console retrofitting

Thanks, Lew.  I'm interested in the console, but am making every effort

to keep the weight down to enhance performance and fuel economy.  My

RV-4 is an old one, and very light with an empty weight of less than 920

lbs.  Even with only 150 hp, I can run off and leave most 180 hp RV-4's

because they weigh so much more.  That has convinced me of the

importance of not adding any weight that it not absolutely essential to

flight safety. 



As Bill Stout (designer of the Ford Trimotor) said when asked the secret

of good aircraft design, "Simplicate, and add Lightness".



Jack Phillips

#40610

Trying to keep it light

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