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zenithlist(at)yahoo.com
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 Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:36 pm Post subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3 |
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Just when I thought things are going well with my 601XL building project, I managed to cut the tube frame B3 (6B21-2) too short.  I could pay someone to weld the cut off parts and try again or forming a new tube frame to get a small taste of scratch builders do. How would one go about forming the tube frame with basic hand tools?
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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| Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:38 pm Post subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3 |
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It isn’t hard to bend one – even a kit builder like me did it. Much easier than trying to weld the spoiled part. Take a look at Larry McFarland’s site. Click on “Fuselage” in the list on the left and scroll down about halfway in the photos.
www.macsmachine.com
Make a form block based on the dimensions in the plans. The you will also need a smaller radius block (maybe 6 inches of radius) due to the spring-back of the tubing. Keep the tube extra long so you have something to grab – maybe an extra foot on each end. To keep the tube from collapsing I filled mine with sand held in by two rubber corks held on by duct tape. Do the initial bend around the form from the plans. Then use it as a template and use the smaller radius block to tighten the radius. Put a mark on the center of the tubing and at the center of the tube to keep them aligned. Work from the center out in both directions. At the tightest parts of the bend I had to make a third form block with a radius of about 3-4 inches. If you bend too far you can unbend using the same kind of blocks and C clamps. Work slowly and in small increments. After I had everything set up and was practiced I did a bow in under two hours.
If you want I can send you photos of how I did mine. I used Larry’s approach but didn’t have any castors.
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Smith
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:34 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3
Just when I thought things are going well with my 601XL building project, I managed to cut the tube frame B3 (6B21-2) too short. I could pay someone to weld the cut off parts and try again or forming a new tube frame to get a small taste of scratch builders do. How would one go about forming the tube frame with basic hand tools?
Be a better friend, newshound, and | Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List |
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zenithlist(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:30 pm Post subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3 |
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Yes, send me any additional photos/instructions you have. Is 3/4" thick plywood sufficient material to make forming block?
Thanks
Craig Payne <craig(at)craigandjean.com> wrote:
[quote] v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} It isn’t hard to bend one – even a kit builder like me did it. Much easier than trying to weld the spoiled part. Take a look at Larry McFarland’s site. Click on “Fuselage” in the list on the left and scroll down about halfway in the photos.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
www.macsmachine.com
Make a form block based on the dimensions in the plans. The you will also need a smaller radius block (maybe 6 inches of radius) due to the spring-back of the tubing. Keep the tube extra long so you have something to grab – maybe an extra foot on each end. To keep the tube from collapsing I filled mine with sand held in by two rubber corks held on by duct tape. Do the initial bend around the form from the plans. Then use it as a template and use the smaller radius block to tighten the radius. Put a mark on the center of the tubing and at the center of the tube to keep them aligned. Work from the center out in both directions. At the tightest parts of the bend I had to make a third form block with a radius of about 3-4 inches. If you bend too far you can unbend using the same kind of blocks and C clamps. Work slowly and in small increments. After I had everything set up and was practiced I did a bow in under two hours.
If you want I can send you photos of how I did mine. I used Larry’s approach but didn’t have any castors.
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Smith
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:34 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3
Just when I thought things are going well with my 601XL building project, I managed to cut the tube frame B3 (6B21-2) too short. I could pay someone to weld the cut off parts and try again or forming a new tube frame to get a small taste of scratch builders do. How would one go about forming the tube frame with basic hand tools?
Be a better friend, newshound, and
[quote] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List[b]
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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| Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:12 pm Post subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3 |
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I suppose plywood would work but I used 5/8th inch particle board. Something harder for the smaller radius form blocks might be better as the edges started to mash down towards the end of the operation. I worry about the edge of the plywood delaminating and splintering. It actually doesn’t have to be the thickness of the tube because (it being a tube) it only contacts the form along a line. I spaced my forms off of the table with some scrap 1/4 inch particle board. But you do want the top of the big form to be even with (or above) the top of the tube so you can add on a top plate larger than the form to make a channel that holds the tube down when you make the initial bend.
Here is a quote from an old message I sent:
“You can do the initial bend on the form by just grabbing the ends and pulling. This may take two people as the tube is so long. But due to spring-back you will have to use a tighter radius form to bring it to final shape. So after the first bend the form is just your template. I started with a 10 inch radius but had to finish the ends with a 5-6 inch radius. You might be able to skip the sand if your forms support the circular cross-section of the tube but why make the potentially expensive experiment? I just filled mine with sand, plugged both ends with some rubber stoppers from Home Depot held on with duct tape.
For me the process that worked best was to mark off sections on the tube with matching marks on the form and work on sections proceeding from the center of the tube toward the ends. That way you aren't trying to adjust bends all over. If you overbend you *can* correct. Just don't do it too often in a given section as you will start work-hardening the tube. After a few bends I was able to get a feel for the spring-back.”
Also search the archives on “bend tube”. I received a lot of advice around November of 2006. Everyone has their own variation on the general technique.
I’ll send the pictures direct.
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Smith
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 11:26 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3
Yes, send me any additional photos/instructions you have. Is 3/4" thick plywood sufficient material to make forming block?
Thanks
Craig Payne <craig(at)craigandjean.com> wrote:
[quote]
It isn’t hard to bend one – even a kit builder like me did it. Much easier than trying to weld the spoiled part. Take a look at Larry McFarland’s site. Click on “Fuselage” in the list on the left and scroll down about halfway in the photos.
www.macsmachine.com
Make a form block based on the dimensions in the plans. The you will also need a smaller radius block (maybe 6 inches of radius) due to the spring-back of the tubing. Keep the tube extra long so you have something to grab – maybe an extra foot on each end. To keep the tube from collapsing I filled mine with sand held in by two rubber corks held on by duct tape. Do the initial bend around the form from the plans. Then use it as a template and use the smaller radius block to tighten the radius. Put a mark on the center of the tubing and at the center of the tube to keep them aligned. Work from the center out in both directions. At the tightest parts of the bend I had to make a third form block with a radius of about 3-4 inches. If you bend too far you can unbend using the same kind of blocks and C clamps. Work slowly and in small increments. After I had everything set up and was practiced I did a bow in under two hours.
If you want I can send you photos of how I did mine. I used Larry’s approach but didn’t have any castors.
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Smith
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:34 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3
Just when I thought things are going well with my 601XL building project, I managed to cut the tube frame B3 (6B21-2) too short. I could pay someone to weld the cut off parts and try again or forming a new tube frame to get a small taste of scratch builders do. How would one go about forming the tube frame with basic hand tools?
Be a better friend, newshound, and | Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List |
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[b]
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japhillipsga(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:55 am Post subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3 |
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John, save the time and effort and order a new one from ZAC. Getting done and flying is the main goal. I messed up a few parts myself and ZAC got them to me in a couple days each time. We have all been there. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
N505WP 601XL-3300 126 hrs
RV-8a Finishing Kit
do not archive
--
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zenithlist(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:21 pm Post subject: Forming Turtle Neck Tube Frame B3 |
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I called ZAC and they wanted $53 for the formed tube and unknown "oversized" shipping cost. I'll give a shot at forming one first and hopefully learn additional skills in the process.
japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote: [quote] John, save the time and effort and order a new one from ZAC. Getting done and flying is the main goal. I messed up a few parts myself and ZAC got them to me in a couple days each time. We have all been there. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
N505WP 601XL-3300 126 hrs
RV-8a Finishing Kit
do not archive
--
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