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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 2:56 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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The subject was written to warn the people that get bored from reading
"Mark and Brian" discussions. Now you can't say you were not warned!
If you went this far, .. Be advised that this is a discussion on
Alternators and Generators. More of the same. Interesting to few but
the very dedicated electronic types.
Ok Brian... I'm going to take some pot shots here, and the YAK readers
will take it in the shorts from boredom I am sure!
Double >>'s from me.
Single >'s from Brian.
No >'s, this reply.
Quote: | > P.s. Another little tidbit between Alternators and Generators.
>
> 1. If your batteries ever go totally dead in the air or on the
> ground... I mean zero or really LOW battery voltage.... And the
> alternator is not already on-line... It will never turn on.
|
Quote: | Not entirely true. Self-exciting alternators will.
Even a regular alternator will come on line if you can get all the
loads off the bus first.
|
True. Now name a light civil aircraft with a self-exciting alternator
installed. The small B&C PMG "Alternator" will in fact do that. It
also has no field input winding as you know. It uses permanent magnets.
Yes, the "Alternators" on the EA-6B Prowler have a PMG winding as well
that is then used to excite the main field. These are indeed
self-exciting and it is agreed that such models exist. These are 3
phase 30 KVA models by the way. And yes, I have 38 years experience
working with self exciting alternators, (HANDS ON Brian) but I have yet
to see one on a Cessna. If the readers of this list want to discuss the
power generating systems on a 747, then heck yes! However, sorry... not
on the YAK LIST and not on the Chevy in your garage either.
As far as a "regular" alternator coming on line with all loads
removed..... I'd like to see it done please. I went out to my 68 Camaro
and tried it. It did not work. I went out to a Cessna 180 (1974 model)
and it did not work. Then a 182, then a Piper 140, then a YAK-52TW. No
cheese. I suspect that what you are suggesting is connecting a wire
jumper directly from the output to the field. Impossible to do
in-flight, and not a bright thing to do on the ground. If I am wrong
here, please correct me. Never-the-less, I tried exactly that and it
failed to work.
So yes, again with respect, your point in theory is entirely valid.
However, I do not consider it to be Germaine unless you can point to
exactly which make and model of aircraft, or even automobile that you
actually made it work on.
Quote: | > It needs a little juice to get it going so to speak.
|
Quote: | That is true. OTOH the reason that the generator comes on-line without
the battery is the residual
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Quote: | magnetism in the field.
|
I concur, and a generator does not come from the factory that way. It
has to be "FLASHED" in order to start working the very first time.
Agreed, some manufactures' did that for you back in the day. Depending
on how long it "sat" it sometimes still needed it upon installation.
Quote: | The alternator has the same thing.
|
Define what you mean by the "same thing". An alternator NEVER needs to
be "flashed" coming out of the box. It does NOT rely on self-induced
magnetism, and it is not a design FEATURE.... Except.... On very special
models usually found on commercial or military aircraft designed for the
express purpose of running WITHOUT any kind of battery at all.
Quote: | You can see this by disconnecting the 'B' lead, putting a voltmeter on
it, and spinning up the alternator.
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Quote: | You will get some output. It should be enough to excite the field to
bootstrap the alternator to full
|
Quote: | output as long as nothing else is using that output. As I said, that is
how a self-exciting alternator
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Quote: | gets going. And most internally-regulated alternators are self
exciting.
|
Interesting theory. How much does that meter load the output do you
think? Yes, I am sure you can get some voltage on a meter. In my recent
experience, not enough current to get the field excited though. It did
not work on any test I ran. As you pointed out, there are a lot of "1
wire" alternators out there. I have one on my 68 Camaro... A 100 amp
alternator. It does NOT self-excite. Period.
Quote: | But there is another issue. Neither a generator system nor an
alternator system should
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Quote: | be operated without a battery in the circuit.
|
I assume we have now jumped back to common general aviation aircraft,
because only a very few modern tactical military aircraft have ANY kind
of battery even installed! Granted some do have APU's. However, take
the whole A-6 product line for example. No battery except for
activating a spin assist circuit, and their alternators run the whole
aircraft without a problem....no batteries needed.
This is an example of "reverse nit-picking" and I admit it. Point is,
some systems were designed to be operated with a battery and some
without. Some alternators can self excite, most can not. Discussions
then need to stay targeted on one thing at a time.
ANYWAY....Yes, I agree.... On models designed to run with a battery it
is true that it is inadvisable to run the system without one. Unless
maybe your life is at stake. Say, IFR at night. Or, as a young Marine
trying to get back to the base after his battery had been stolen out of
his car and no money to buy a new one, and too honest to swipe someone
else's. A 12 volt lantern battery WILL excite a car alternator enough
to get it going. Been there, done that, have the tea-shirt. Drove 500
miles back to the base exactly that way.
Quote: | The battery is needed to stabilize the voltage. Without it you have
nothing to absorb the
|
Quote: | excess output when you load-dump. Neither an alternator nor a generator
can change its
|
Quote: | output suddenly. It takes time for the magnetism in the field to ramp
up or ramp down
|
Quote: | with a field current change. (Current lags voltage in an inductor if
you want to get technical.)
|
Yes... I am familiar with AC theory Brian... And yes I remember ELI the
ICE man. But... You kind of make it sound like without the battery,
everything will self-destruct.
Quote: | That means that, without a battery, turn off the landing light and
watch the alternator or
|
Quote: | generator create an over voltage event.
|
Better yet, leave it on and watch it tend to smooth out voltage
excursions.
That said, I went out to my YAK-50 last night and disconnected the
battery. I then started it. I then ran up the engine to about 50 % and
called the tower and flew it around the pattern with no battery
connected. Nothing burnt out. Everything worked fine. It was not much
of a risk really. On a flight a few years ago I blew the battery fuse
in flight. Well... Actually the fuse holder fell apart... But same
thing. I never even knew it until I idled the engine down and
everything in the cockpit went dead.
This morning I went out to my old piece of junk Renault Alliance. I
started the car. I then rev'ed the engine up to 2000 RPM and
disconnected the battery. It took two people to pull this stunt off. I
then drove it around the block. Nothing bad happened. Of course I did
not have a $10,000 Avionics Stack fired up either.
Quote: | Now we have said WAY more about alternators and generators than anyone
else wanted to hear.
|
Probably so.
Mark Bitterlich
P.s. Here is my opinion, and I have tried it. If you are flying around
and suspect you have a bad battery, DO NOT TURN OFF THE ALTERNATOR to
check your battery voltage, it very well might not come back on with
zero, or even near zero battery voltage. It is also entirely possible
that the aircraft will be subject to inductive voltage kicks from
operating that alternator without a battery (as Brian pointed out).
These might even be high enough to cause equipment damage under the
right conditions. As the pilot in command, you'll have to make the
decision which possibility is worse for you. However, my testing
confirms that if you turn off the alternator with a dead battery,
turning it back on will accomplish nothing unless you are lucky enough
to have just a little something left in the battery to excite the
alternator allowing it to get back on line.
Next, regardless of alternator OR generator, if either is on-line and
you have a bad battery, the power you DO generate will power the landing
gear motor, will run all your lights, and HOPEFULLY will not damage your
avionics. Given the tests I just ran in my aircraft, I would not
hesitate to do it. And yes, the tower reported bad hum in my
transmissions. However my little Apollo 360 GPS hung in there without a
hick-up.
P.p.s. And Brian, I am not saying you are WRONG in any way. I am
saying that it is easy to switch back and forth between discussing
apples and oranges during any kind of electronic discourse of this
nature. Apples remain apples and oranges remain orange. However, when
you put them in the same bowl, we need to be careful not to act like
they are the same fruit. My 2 cents anyway.
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wlannon(at)persona.ca Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:50 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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Well, I for one do not get bored reading "Mark and Brian" discussions. You
both know much more than I do on this subject and I have been restoring and
maintaining Warbird types for at least 40 years.
Probably because I'm too old to know any better I have nothing but positive
things to say about the Bendix Eclipse generator, carbon pile regulator and
control units used in these aircraft.
There are questions I would like to put to you but since these are specific
to the above systems I would bore everyone else so will pass.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers;
Walt
---
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brian-1927(at)lloyd.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:14 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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Quote: | > Not entirely true. Self-exciting alternators will.
> Even a regular alternator will come on line if you can get all the
> loads off the bus first.
True. Now name a light civil aircraft with a self-exciting
alternator
installed.
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Well, my CJ "Betty" did. Still does I am pretty sure. It is why you
have to get the RPM up to about 2000 before the alternator comes on-
line. After that it is fine even at idle until you shut it down.
Quote: | As far as a "regular" alternator coming on line with all loads
removed..... I'd like to see it done please.
|
If you have an internally-regulated alternator with the internal VR
powered from a diode trio from the stator, your alternator will self-
excite. Every IR alternator so wired I have tried did self-excite. I
have done this with GM Delco, Ford Autolite, and Motorola.
Quote: | I went out to my 68 Camaro
and tried it. It did not work. I went out to a Cessna 180 (1974
model)
and it did not work. Then a 182, then a Piper 140, then a YAK-52TW. No
cheese. I suspect that what you are suggesting is connecting a wire
jumper directly from the output to the field.
|
No.
Quote: | I concur, and a generator does not come from the factory that way. It
has to be "FLASHED" in order to start working the very first time.
Agreed, some manufactures' did that for you back in the day.
Depending
on how long it "sat" it sometimes still needed it upon installation.
|
Yes.
Quote: | > The alternator has the same thing.
Define what you mean by the "same thing". An alternator NEVER needs
to
be "flashed" coming out of the box. It does NOT rely on self-induced
magnetism, and it is not a design FEATURE.... Except.... On very
special
models usually found on commercial or military aircraft designed for
the
express purpose of running WITHOUT any kind of battery at all.
|
As with all steel armature pole pieces, if you apply a magnetic field
for a long period of time it will become at least partially magnetized
permanently. The residual magnetism in the armature will induce
voltage in the stator. That voltage may be (probably is) less than
battery voltage so you would never see enough output to charge the
battery. But it is enough to turn on the internal VR which will then
shunt the small available current into the field. This will increase
the output which then increases the current in the field. This
positive feedback process continues until the unit is fully on-line.
So I find your negative results very surprising. Every internally-
regulated alternator I have used that is self-powered through the
diode trio connected to the stator (independent of the normal diode
bridge that feeds output to the B lead) has been self-exciting in the
manner I have described.
Quote: | > gets going. And most internally-regulated alternators are self
exciting.
Interesting theory.
|
'Taint theory.
Quote: | How much does that meter load the output do you
think?
|
Nothing to speak of. If you you are looking at the B-lead you are
getting two diode drops, not 1. That makes things worse. The diode
trio works with a single diode drop hence you have almost an extra
volt available from the feeble output of the stator from the residual
magnetism in the rotor.
Quote: | Yes, I am sure you can get some voltage on a meter. In my recent
experience, not enough current to get the field excited though.
|
Tap the diode trio.
Quote: | It did
not work on any test I ran. As you pointed out, there are a lot of "1
wire" alternators out there. I have one on my 68 Camaro... A 100 amp
alternator. It does NOT self-excite. Period.
|
I am surprised. You have just told me about the first one that did not
self-excite that I have heard of. Remember, a "1-wire" alternator has
to self excite or it must get some power from the battery. Actually
most alternators get a tiny current from teh battery through the idiot-
light circuit. The 100mA or so needed to light that lamp is more than
enough to turn on the internal VR and the field even at idle. But if
you disconnect the idiot light circuit the alternator has to self-
excite. It will.
Quote: | > But there is another issue. Neither a generator system nor an
alternator system should
> be operated without a battery in the circuit.
I assume we have now jumped back to common general aviation aircraft,
because only a very few modern tactical military aircraft have ANY
kind
of battery even installed!
|
Yes, I am talking about GA aircraft. Hell, I am talking about most
aircraft. And no, I am not talking about current military aircraft
with electrical systems designed not to need a battery. This whole
discussion started with alternators and generators on Yak/CJ aircraft
and that is where I thought we were. It is certainly possible to
construct an alternator controller and output clamping system that
will prevent a load-dump incident but the standard alternator (or
generator) that is used in a run-of-the-mill automobile or GA aircraft
doesn't have that.
Quote: | Granted some do have APU's. However, take
the whole A-6 product line for example. No battery except for
activating a spin assist circuit, and their alternators run the whole
aircraft without a problem....no batteries needed.
This is an example of "reverse nit-picking" and I admit it.
|
Keine sheiss, meine Herr. I was talking about electrical systems in
the aircraft we own, not necessarily the ones some of us are paid to
fly into harm's way.
Quote: | Point is,
some systems were designed to be operated with a battery and some
without. Some alternators can self excite, most can not. Discussions
then need to stay targeted on one thing at a time.
ANYWAY....Yes, I agree.... On models designed to run with a battery it
is true that it is inadvisable to run the system without one. Unless
maybe your life is at stake. Say, IFR at night. Or, as a young
Marine
trying to get back to the base after his battery had been stolen out
of
his car and no money to buy a new one, and too honest to swipe someone
else's. A 12 volt lantern battery WILL excite a car alternator enough
to get it going. Been there, done that, have the tea-shirt. Drove 500
miles back to the base exactly that way.
|
Sure, you can do it. If your loads remain relatively constant
everything will work out fine without a battery. Even a honkin' big
capacitor will do the trick. But if you take the battery out of the
circuit, leave the alternator on, bring up the load with lights, pitot
heat, butt-warmer, etc., and then turn off some large load, the output
of the alternator will go a lot higher than you want for a short
period of time. This is called a load-dump incident and you need
something to absorb the extra output.
But even some spam-can electrical systems can run without a battery. I
believe some of the Beechcraft are designed to run from their
alternators without the battery on-line. It all depends on how you
design the system.
But as a rule of thumb, running your electrical system in your car or
GA aircraft (or CJ or Yak) without the battery on-line, you are asking
for problems. Maybe not this time or the next but if you keep doing
it, it will bite you in the butt some day.
Quote: |
> The battery is needed to stabilize the voltage. Without it you have
nothing to absorb the
> excess output when you load-dump. Neither an alternator nor a
> generator
can change its
> output suddenly. It takes time for the magnetism in the field to ramp
up or ramp down
> with a field current change. (Current lags voltage in an inductor if
you want to get technical.)
Yes... I am familiar with AC theory Brian... And yes I remember ELI
the
ICE man. But... You kind of make it sound like without the battery,
everything will self-destruct.
|
No, I am saying that without the battery to provide a load for the
momentary overvoltage situation caused by load-dump, you will get a
big spike, the energy content of which is a function of the inductance
of the field.
Most solid-state regulators for alternators and generators use a
series pass transistor which switches on and off to pulse-width
modulate the field current. (I will be happy to draw you a schematic
but you can imagine a comparitor driving the base of the switch
transistor, turning the transistor on when the voltage is below the
setpoint and off when it is above.) The problem is that when the
transistor switches off, the back EMF from the field is high enough to
damage the switch transistor. So they put in a clamp diode to protect
the transistor. The problem here is that the clamp diode allows the
back EMF a low-impedance path to ground keeping current flowing in the
field. This slows down the collapse of the field. This tends to hold
the output of the alternator high for some number of milliseconds
longer than you expect.
So imagine the situation now. You have a lot of loads on. The
alternator is working its little butt off. The field current is pretty
high. Suddenly you turn off the load. The bus voltage starts to rise.
The VR shuts off the field but the collapsing B-field from the
armature induces a big back-EMF. The clamp diode shunts the current
from the back-EMF to ground which holds up the B-field. The output of
the alternator continues to rise even tho' the VR has done the right
thing and it is no longer sourcing field current. This goes on until
the B-field collapses. This may take 10's or 100's of milliseconds. At
that point the output of the alternator drops. If the battery is
there, it absorbs the extra energy and the voltage on the bus moves
only a little. If there is no device to absorb that extra energy, e.g.
battery, capacitor, transorb, clamping zener, dedicated clamp circuit,
etc., you will see a big spike. If there is enough energy in that
spike it can damage the power supplies in your avionics.
Load dump is real.
Quote: | > That means that, without a battery, turn off the landing light and
watch the alternator or
> generator create an over voltage event.
Better yet, leave it on and watch it tend to smooth out voltage
excursions.
That said, I went out to my YAK-50 last night and disconnected the
battery. I then started it. I then ran up the engine to about 50 %
and
called the tower and flew it around the pattern with no battery
connected. Nothing burnt out. Everything worked fine.
|
Doesn't your Yak-50 use a B&C PM alternator? They work differently and
they will not exhibit load-dump effect. You need an alternator or
generator with a field circuit. Also, the larger the alternator, the
more profound the effect. You might see load-dump effect with a small
field-circuit alternator but you will find that the energy in the
spike is not enough to be a problem.
Hell, I would expect a PM alternator (dynamo) to run just fine without
a battery.
But lets say you are still running the stock generator. I would not
expect a load-dump event in your Yak-50. You aren't switching big
loads off. You don't have anything like a landing-gear motor. Repeat
your experiment, this time with the landing light and pitot-heat on.
Turn them both off at the same time. I betcha you get a GOOD spike.
Quote: | It was not much
of a risk really. On a flight a few years ago I blew the battery fuse
in flight. Well... Actually the fuse holder fell apart... But same
thing. I never even knew it until I idled the engine down and
everything in the cockpit went dead.
This morning I went out to my old piece of junk Renault Alliance. I
started the car. I then rev'ed the engine up to 2000 RPM and
disconnected the battery. It took two people to pull this stunt
off. I
then drove it around the block. Nothing bad happened. Of course I
did
not have a $10,000 Avionics Stack fired up either.
|
And you probably did not create a load-dump. That is where the problem
arises. Do that again and remove a big load, e.g. turn off the
headlights. Put a 'scope on the bus. It will make a believer out of you.
Mark, I like you. You are one of the few people in this world I have
discussions like this with. But in this case, for better or for worse,
I am right about this. Go look up "load dump". Oh, and I stand by the
self-exciting alternator too.
Quote: | P.s. Here is my opinion, and I have tried it. If you are flying
around
and suspect you have a bad battery, DO NOT TURN OFF THE ALTERNATOR to
check your battery voltage, it very well might not come back on with
zero, or even near zero battery voltage. It is also entirely possible
that the aircraft will be subject to inductive voltage kicks from
operating that alternator without a battery (as Brian pointed out).
These might even be high enough to cause equipment damage under the
right conditions. As the pilot in command, you'll have to make the
decision which possibility is worse for you. However, my testing
confirms that if you turn off the alternator with a dead battery,
turning it back on will accomplish nothing unless you are lucky enough
to have just a little something left in the battery to excite the
alternator allowing it to get back on line.
|
For externally-regulated alternators, this is 100% true. This means
almost all aircraft.
Quote: | Next, regardless of alternator OR generator, if either is on-line and
you have a bad battery, the power you DO generate will power the
landing
gear motor, will run all your lights, and HOPEFULLY will not damage
your
avionics.
|
Ah, landing gear. When the gear is finally down and the gear motor
shuts off, look for one mutha' big-ass load-dump event. The dump it
takes may be in your $20,000 glass PFD.
Quote: | Given the tests I just ran in my aircraft, I would not
hesitate to do it. And yes, the tower reported bad hum in my
transmissions. However my little Apollo 360 GPS hung in there
without a
hick-up.
P.p.s. And Brian, I am not saying you are WRONG in any way.
|
Ah, good. Because I *am* right.
Quote: | I am
saying that it is easy to switch back and forth between discussing
apples and oranges during any kind of electronic discourse of this
nature. Apples remain apples and oranges remain orange. However,
when
you put them in the same bowl, we need to be careful not to act like
they are the same fruit. My 2 cents anyway.
|
<sigh> And here I thought *I* was the most anal-retentive, pedantic
asshole on this list!
(Love ya' Mark.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
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l39parts(at)hotmail.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:59 am Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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and now, Mark, all you need to do is go through and rebut Brian's points, point by point, then Brian will get mad and leave the list for a year. It's deja vu all over again.
Quote: | Subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion!
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 17:50:44 -0500
From: mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>
The subject was written to warn the people that get bored from reading
"Mark and Brian" discussions. Now you can't say you were not warned!
If you went this far, .. Be advised that this is a discussion on
Alternators and Generators. More of the same. Interesting to few but
the very dedicated electronic types.
Ok Brian... I'm going to take some pot shots here, and the YAK readers
will take it in the shorts from boredom I am sure!
Double >>'s from me.
Single >'s from Brian.
No >'s, this reply.
>> P.s. Another little tidbit between Alternators and Generators.
>>
>> 1. If your batteries ever go totally dead in the air or on the
>> ground... I mean zero or really LOW battery voltage.... And the
>> alternator is not already on-line... It will never turn on.
>Not entirely true. Self-exciting alternators will.
>Even a regular alternator will come on line if you can get all the
>loads off the bus first.
True. Now name a light civil aircraft with a self-exciting alternator
installed. The small B&C PMG "Alternator" will in fact do that. It
also has no field input winding as you know. It uses permanent magnets.
Yes, the "Alternators" on the EA-6B Prowler have a PMG winding as well
that is then used to excite the main field. These are indeed
self-exciting and it is agreed that such models exist. These are 3
phase 30 KVA models by the way. And yes, I have 38 years experience
working with self exciting alternators, (HANDS ON Brian) but I have yet
to see one on a Cessna. If the readers of this list want to discuss the
power generating systems on a 747, then heck yes! However, sorry... not
on the YAK LIST and not on the Chevy in your garage either.
As far as a "regular" alternator coming on line with all loads
removed..... I'd like to see it done please. I went out to my 68 Camaro
and tried it. It did not work. I went out to a Cessna 180 (1974 model)
and it did not work. Then a 182, then a Piper 140, then a YAK-52TW. No
cheese. I suspect that what you are suggesting is connecting a wire
jumper directly from the output to the field. Impossible to do
in-flight, and not a bright thing to do on the ground. If I am wrong
here, please correct me. Never-the-less, I tried exactly that and it
failed to work.
So yes, again with respect, your point in theory is entirely valid.
However, I do not consider it to be Germaine unless you can point to
exactly which make and model of aircraft, or even automobile that you
actually made it work on.
>> It needs a little juice to get it going so to speak.
>That is true. OTOH the reason that the generator comes on-line without
the battery is the residual
>magnetism in the field.
I concur, and a generator does not come from the factory that way. It
has to be "FLASHED" in order to start working the very first time.
Agreed, some manufactures' did that for you back in the day. Depending
on how long it "sat" it sometimes still needed it upon installation.
>The alternator has the same thing.
Define what you mean by the "same thing". An alternator NEVER needs to
be "flashed" coming out of the box. It does NOT rely on self-induced
magnetism, and it is not a design FEATURE.... Except.... On very special
models usually found on commercial or military aircraft designed for the
express purpose of running WITHOUT any kind of battery at all.
>You can see this by disconnecting the 'B' lead, putting a voltmeter on
it, and spinning up the alternator.
>You will get some output. It should be enough to excite the field to
bootstrap the alternator to full
>output as long as nothing else is using that output. As I said, that is
how a self-exciting alternator
>gets going. And most internally-regulated alternators are self
exciting.
Interesting theory. How much does that meter load the output do you
think? Yes, I am sure you can get some voltage on a meter. In my recent
experience, not enough current to get the field excited though. It did
not work on any test I ran. As you pointed out, there are a lot of "1
wire" alternators out there. I have one on my 68 Camaro... A 100 amp
alternator. It does NOT self-excite. Period.
>But there is another issue. Neither a generator system nor an
alternator system should
>be operated without a battery in the circuit.
I assume we have now jumped back to common general aviation aircraft,
because only a very few modern tactical military aircraft have ANY kind
of battery even installed! Granted some do have APU's. However, take
the whole A-6 product line for example. No battery except for
activating a spin assist circuit, and their alternators run the whole
aircraft without a problem....no batteries needed.
This is an example of "reverse nit-picking" and I admit it. Point is,
some systems were designed to be operated with a battery and some
without. Some alternators can self excite, most can not. Discussions
then need to stay targeted on one thing at a time.
ANYWAY....Yes, I agree.... On models designed to run with a battery it
is true that it is inadvisable to run the system without one. Unless
maybe your life is at stake. Say, IFR at night. Or, as a young Marine
trying to get back to the base after his battery had been stolen out of
his car and no money to buy a new one, and too honest to swipe someone
else's. A 12 volt lantern battery WILL excite a car alternator enough
to get it going. Been there, done that, have the tea-shirt. Drove 500
miles back to the base exactly that way.
>The battery is needed to stabilize the voltage. Without it you have
nothing to absorb the
>excess output when you load-dump. Neither an alternator nor a generator
can change its
>output suddenly. It takes time for the magnetism in the field to ramp
up or ramp down
>with a field current change. (Current lags voltage in an inductor if
you want to get technical.)
Yes... I am familiar with AC theory Brian... And yes I remember ELI the
ICE man. But... You kind of make it sound like without the battery,
everything will self-destruct.
>That means that, without a battery, turn off the landing light and
watch the alternator or
>generator create an over voltage event.
Better yet, leave it on and watch it tend to smooth out voltage
excursions.
That said, I went out to my YAK-50 last night and disconnected the
battery. I then started it. I then ran up the engine to about 50 % and
called the tower and flew it around the pattern with no battery
connected. Nothing burnt out. Everything worked fine. It was not much
of a risk really. On a flight a few years ago I blew the battery fuse
in flight. Well... Actually the fuse holder fell apart... But same
thing. I never even knew it until I idled the engine down and
everything in the cockpit went dead.
This morning I went out to my old piece of junk Renault Alliance. I
started the car. I then rev'ed the engine up to 2000 RPM and
disconnected the battery. It took two people to pull this stunt off. I
then drove it around the block. Nothing bad happened. Of course I did
not have a $10,000 Avionics Stack fired up either.
>Now we have said WAY more about alternators and generators than anyone
else wanted to hear.
Probably so.
Mark Bitterlich
P.s. Here is my opinion, and I have tried it. If you are flying around
and suspect you have a bad battery, DO NOT TURN OFF THE ALTERNATOR to
check your battery voltage, it very well might not come back on with
zero, or even near zero battery voltage. It is also entirely possible
that the aircraft will be subject to inductive voltage kicks from
operating that alternator without a battery (as Brian pointed out).
These might even be high enough to cause equipment damage under the
right conditions. As the pilot in command, you'll have to make the
decision which possibility is worse for you. However, my testing
confirms that if you turn off the alternator with a dead battery,
turning it back on will accomplish nothing unless you are lucky enough
to have just a little something left in the battery to excite the
alternator allowing it to get back on line.
Next, regardless of alternator OR generator, if either is on-line and
you have a bad battery, the power you DO generate will power the landing
gear motor, will run all your lights, and HOPEFULLY will not damage your
avionics. Given the tests I just ran in my aircraft, I would not
hesitate to do it. And yes, the tower reported bad hum in my
transmissions. However my little Apollo 360 GPS hung in there without a
hick-up.
P.p.s. And Brian, I am not saying you are WRONG in any way. I am
saying that it is easy to switch back and forth between discussing
apples and oranges during any kind of electronic discourse of this
nature. Apples remain apples and oranges remain orange. However, when
you put them in the same bowl, we need to be careful not to act like
they are the same fruit. My 2 ce========================&g==
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brian-1927(at)lloyd.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:55 am Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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On Feb 21, 2008, at 12:56 AM, Ron Davis wrote:
Quote: | and now, Mark, all you need to do is go through and rebut Brian's
points, point by point, then Brian will get mad and leave the list
for a year. It's deja vu all over again.
|
Hey, thanks for the vote of confidence Ron. I am sure you and I will
be best-buds over brewskis in nothing flat.
Mark can do what he wants and rebut what he wants. It doesn't change
the facts. What I wrote is correct and documented by others. You can
look it up. Heck, you can even test it and prove it to yourself so it
doesn't matter who you want to believe.
As for getting mad and leaving, mostly I reach a point where I get
tired of the mailing lists I am on. The same discussions go on, mostly
between the same people (including me). The noobs ask the same
questions and get the same answers. My attempt to remedy that
situation was met with outright hostility. So I decided to go do
something else. By now I know the email addresses of the people I need
to ask if I need real information about the Yak or CJ so I don't need
the list.
For me the list is just a social thing and occasionally I can help
someone like Craig who wanted to know something about his generator.
Mark provided great specific detail in earlier messages and I provided
background that I hoped would bring the forest back into view. It
feels good to be able to help someone. But if it gets to the point
where the feeling is too negative, well, I have better things to do
with my life. I have people who want to learn to fly, people who want
to learn to fly better, and I have little people who want to learn
about science and engineering. That is a whole lot more rewarding than
arguing with someone who hasn't done their homework.
(BTW, I am not referring to Mark in this. I know Mark has done his
homework and I actually enjoy this sort of mental sparring. I know I
have to have it sooo right that Mark can't trip me up on anything.
Does that help you understand me a little better Ron? And please
understand, I do not harbor any hard feelings. If and when we meet,
the first beer *is* on me.
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brianl AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 2:44 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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I am sure I speak for Brian as well when I say that questions are always
welcomed. I can't promise an answer, but I would bet between the two of
us we could come close. If they will bore everyone else, please direct
them to either: mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil or
markbitterlich(at)embarqmail.com
Mark
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 2:58 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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Actually it was not me that drove Brian away last time. It was people
who made ridiculous replies to his very sound logic and hard truths.
That said the only person I am going to correct in this message is you,
thank you very much and have a nice day and all that stuff.
As an aside, there is a very basic truth between Brian and myself. I
respect this gentleman's knowledge and I have never heard him espouse a
single viewpoint that did not make sense and was not based on excellent
logic and theory. Every single time I have expressed a different point
of view than Brian, and we have these detailed discussions, I have
walked away with a different or broadened perspective on the matter.
Not once EVER has he made me angry. I feel that he has some respect for
my ability in this field as well. It is clear to both of us that what
each has learned has been accomplished with a lot of sweat and hard
work, to say nothing about experience. It is both our profession and
our hobby. I could go on, but the real truth is that neither Brian nor
myself will ever walk away mad at each other from a simple difference in
view on a particular facet or aspect of electronics. EVERY time that I
find myself not in agreement with Brian, the FIRST thing that comes to
my mind is: "What does he know that I do not?" The second thing is:
"Be careful in case you are getting ready to make a fool out of yourself
here".
Mark Bitterlich
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 3:59 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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Quote: | If you have an internally-regulated alternator with the internal
VR powered from a diode trio from the stator, your alternator will
self- excite. Every IR alternator so wired I have tried did
self-excite.
|
Quote: | I have done this with GM Delco, Ford Autolite, and Motorola.
|
I must be doing something wrong. I went out to my Camaro... And I have
no idea who made it... Other than the fact that is the single wire type.
I started the engine and revved the engine up and then pulled the + wire
off the battery. The Alternator stayed on and powered the car. I then
lowered engine RPM to idle and the engine died. What am I doing wrong
that you obviously are doing right?
Quote: | As with all steel armature pole pieces, if you apply a magnetic field
for a long period of time it will become at least partially magnetized
permanently. The residual magnetism in the armature will induce voltage
|
Quote: | in the stator. That voltage may be (probably is) less than battery
voltage
|
Quote: | so you would never see enough output to charge the battery. But it is
enough
|
Quote: | to turn on the internal VR which will then shunt the small available
current
|
Quote: | into the field. This will increase the output which then increases the
current
|
Quote: | in the field. This positive feedback process continues until the unit
is fully
|
I understand the concept, agree with your reasons why. I could not make
it work.
What really bothers me is that I tried it a lot, so I clearly am doing
something different than you are, and I would like to know what. My
conclusion at this point is that since you say it works for you, and I
can not get it to work for me, than I must be doing something different
from you and obviously wrong. My only conclusion is that I have somehow
left a load on the alternator to the point where it can not achieve your
stated end stage. On the airplanes, I started the engine and removed
the + wire off the battery as well. I then again pulled the throttle to
idle and lost all electrical. I THOUGHT I had all electrical turned off
in the aircraft under test, but I must have been in error?
Quote: | So I find your negative results very surprising. Every internally-
regulated alternator I have used that is self-powered through the
diode trio connected to the stator (independent of the normal diode
bridge that feeds output to the B lead) has been self-exciting in
the manner I have described.
|
I believe you. I have not seen it happen. I am perplexed. If I am
wrong, that's ok. However I would like to know why.
Ok... I know that Brian. I thought I was sure of my facts. Now you
have me questioning them. Ok... I am going to get an alternator and
belt drive it with an electric motor and run tests on what I can get out
of the blasted thing. It may have to wait until I get back from Iraq.
I have all my interest right now targeted on building a multiple LNB
rack for an FTA dish.
Quote: | Tap the diode trio.
|
I did NOT do that!
Alright... On my Camaro, I will disconnect the Alternator single wire
and leave it hanging. I will start the motor and rev it up and see if I
can get any output. I will leave the wire dangling with ZERO load. I
did not do that last time and possibly that is why I can not duplicate
what you clearly have seen happen yourself.
-----------------------------------------------
Quote: | Sure, you can do it. If your loads remain relatively constant
everything will work out fine without a battery. Even a honkin'
big capacitor will do the trick. But if you take the battery out
of the circuit, leave the alternator on, bring up the load with
lights, pitot heat, butt-warmer, etc., and then turn off some
large load, the output of the alternator will go a lot higher
than you want for a short period of time. This is called a
load-dump incident and you need something to absorb the extra
output.
|
Quote: | But even some spam-can electrical systems can run without a battery.
I believe some of the Beechcraft are designed to run from their
alternators without the battery on-line. It all depends on how
you design the system.
|
Quote: | But as a rule of thumb, running your electrical system in your
car or GA aircraft (or CJ or Yak) without the battery on-line,
you are asking for problems. Maybe not this time or the next but
if you keep doing it, it will bite you in the butt some day.
---------------------------------------------------
|
We're on the same page here 100%.
Quote: | I am saying that without the battery to provide a load for the
momentary overvoltage situation caused by load-dump, you will
get a big spike, the energy content of which is a function of
the inductance of the field.
|
No argument here either. It is the same reason (in general) that diodes
are placed across the coils on relays.
I left out your article on regulator theory. I've always heard it being
explained as an "overshoot" caused by an immediate load reduction. I
think your explanation is better than most that I've read, and I did not
intend to infer that load dump was anything but real or that it could
not damage avionics.
Load dump is real, however the damage to Avionics can be greatly reduced
or eliminated with some simple care.
Quote: | Doesn't your Yak-50 use a B&C PM alternator?
|
No... All stock. Big ole heavy 3 KW 28 volt gen gen.
Quote: | They work differently and they will not exhibit load-dump effect.
|
Understood. Their "field" is pretty much a constant as I see it.
Quote: | You need an alternator or generator with a field circuit.
Also, the larger the alternator, the more profound the effect.
You might see load-dump effect with a small field-circuit
alternator but you will find that the energy in the spike
is not enough to be a problem.
Hell, I would expect a PM alternator (dynamo) to run just fine without
a battery.
|
Concur.
Quote: | But lets say you are still running the stock generator. I would not
expect a load-dump event in your Yak-50. You aren't switching big
loads off. You don't have anything like a landing-gear motor.
Repeat your experiment, this time with the landing light and pitot-heat
on.
|
Quote: | Turn them both off at the same time. I betcha you get a GOOD spike.
|
I intentionally avoided doing exactly that of course. My intent was not
to say you were wrong, simply to say that it could be done if one was
even remotely careful. Sadly, I do not have a landing light. Fact is
the electrical load on a 50 is so trivial it is rather ridiculous to
have that monster generator in there in the first place.
Quote: | And you probably did not create a load-dump.
That is where the problem arises. Do that again
and remove a big load, e.g. turn off the headlights.
Put a 'scope on the bus. It will make a believer out of you.
|
I did not mean in any way to trivialize the possible damage from voltage
spikes achieved by turning off highly inductive loads in an aircraft
with the battery disconnected. What I meant to get across was that
using the knowledge given by knowledge of the theory, that one could
indeed operate with a dead battery and get away with it with little to
no damage using care.
Quote: | Mark, I like you. You are one of the few people in
this world I have discussions like this with. But in
this case, for better or for worse, I am right about
this. Go look up "load dump".
|
Well, I like you too! Better yet, I trust your judgment. I never
meant to argue with you about load dumping. I portrayed my point of
view poorly if you left with that impression and I am sorry. Your
points are all valid and I do not disagree with any of them. I do admit
that I got the wrong impression from what you were saying too. All
small points really.
Quote: | Oh, and I stand by the self-exciting alternator too.
|
Yeah yeah... Well you have me doubting myself on that one as well.
Bothers the living hell out of me that I might have done something
wrong. I will figure that out.... I did run the tests... Nothing
worked. So, I must be doing something wrong if you are doing the same
darn thing and it DOES work. When my tests failed, my conclusion was
not that your theory was wrong, only that there must not be enough
current available from the residual magnetism to get it all going. I'll
do it again. I can see where I might be able to get the car example to
work. I can not see what I did wrong that caused the aircraft not to
work.
Quote: | For externally-regulated alternators, this is 100% true. This means
almost all aircraft.
|
WAIT! Are you saying I was right about the aircraft? So in reality the
only test that runs counter to your example is the car alternator on my
Camaro? Really?
Quote: | Ah, landing gear. When the gear is finally down and the gear
motor shuts off, look for one mutha' big-ass load-dump event.
The dump it takes may be in your $20,000 glass PFD.
|
Yep. I agree that would be the biggest spike you would be likely to
achieve. Good point.
Quote: | > P.p.s. And Brian, I am not saying you are WRONG in any way.
|
Quote: | Ah, good. Because I *am* right.
|
Yep, you USUALLY are. HA!
Quote: | <sigh> And here I thought *I* was the most anal-retentive, pedantic
asshole on this list!
|
I guess you were wrong about that!
Which brings to mind the quote: "I once thought I made a mistake, but I
was in error"
Next question: Are you currently doing ANYTHING with your ham ticket?
Other than encouraging others I mean. I also wonder how many of the
list readers here are licensed hams?
Mark
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brian-1927(at)lloyd.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 7:12 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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|
On Feb 21, 2008, at 3:56 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
Quote: | > If you have an internally-regulated alternator with the internal
> VR powered from a diode trio from the stator, your alternator will
> self- excite. Every IR alternator so wired I have tried did
self-excite.
> I have done this with GM Delco, Ford Autolite, and Motorola.
I must be doing something wrong. I went out to my Camaro... And I
have
no idea who made it... Other than the fact that is the single wire
type.
I started the engine and revved the engine up and then pulled the +
wire
off the battery. The Alternator stayed on and powered the car. I
then
lowered engine RPM to idle and the engine died. What am I doing wrong
that you obviously are doing right?
|
No idea. It could be a bad diode trio that won't produce enough output
to keep the internal VR alive without the idiot-light or the on/off
line from the ignition switch. Check your diode trio.
Quote: | > in the stator. That voltage may be (probably is) less than battery
voltage
> so you would never see enough output to charge the battery. But it is
enough
> to turn on the internal VR which will then shunt the small available
current
> into the field. This will increase the output which then increases
> the
current
> in the field. This positive feedback process continues until the unit
is fully
> on-line.
I understand the concept, agree with your reasons why. I could not
make
it work.
|
Hey, stuff happens. If you feel motivated, pull the back case off and
test the main diode bridge (6 diodes) and the diode trio.
Quote: | What really bothers me is that I tried it a lot, so I clearly am doing
something different than you are, and I would like to know what. My
conclusion at this point is that since you say it works for you, and I
can not get it to work for me, than I must be doing something
different
from you and obviously wrong.
|
Some alternators do get the power for their internal regulators from
an external supply. You may just have a bad one or two. You would be
amazed at just how many alternators are running around out there with
burned out diodes and other problems.
Quote: | My only conclusion is that I have somehow
left a load on the alternator to the point where it can not achieve
your
stated end stage. On the airplanes, I started the engine and removed
the + wire off the battery as well. I then again pulled the
throttle to
idle and lost all electrical. I THOUGHT I had all electrical turned
off
in the aircraft under test, but I must have been in error?
|
Well, the generator will drop off-line at low RPM. An alternator
should produce enough output to keep itself alive. OTOH, if it is
marginal its output might drop low enough that it stops working too.
It all depends.
Quote: | > So I find your negative results very surprising. Every internally-
> regulated alternator I have used that is self-powered through the
> diode trio connected to the stator (independent of the normal diode
> bridge that feeds output to the B lead) has been self-exciting in
> the manner I have described.
I believe you. I have not seen it happen. I am perplexed. If I am
wrong, that's ok. However I would like to know why.
|
So would I. I am guessing it is something about that particular
alternator.
Quote: | > 'Taint theory.
Ok... I know that Brian. I thought I was sure of my facts. Now you
have me questioning them. Ok... I am going to get an alternator and
belt drive it with an electric motor and run tests on what I can get
out
of the blasted thing. It may have to wait until I get back from Iraq.
I have all my interest right now targeted on building a multiple LNB
rack for an FTA dish.
|
Huh. I am pretty good at getting VSATs up and running. That's one of
the things I was doing in Nigeria when I was there. Need help? I could
stand to make a few bucks.
Quote: | > Tap the diode trio.
I did NOT do that!
Alright... On my Camaro, I will disconnect the Alternator single wire
and leave it hanging. I will start the motor and rev it up and see
if I
can get any output. I will leave the wire dangling with ZERO load. I
did not do that last time and possibly that is why I can not duplicate
what you clearly have seen happen yourself.
|
Could be. I am thinking your alternator may not be completely healthy.
Quote: | We're on the same page here 100%.
> I am saying that without the battery to provide a load for the
> momentary overvoltage situation caused by load-dump, you will
> get a big spike, the energy content of which is a function of
> the inductance of the field.
No argument here either. It is the same reason (in general) that
diodes
are placed across the coils on relays.
|
Well, not quite. It *IS* overshoot. It comes not from the VR response
time but rather the time it takes for the field to collapse. B-field
in the rotor stores energy. That energy sustains the field current for
some time after the VR turns it off. And it is worse with a clamping
diode.
Quote: | I left out your article on regulator theory. I've always heard it
being
explained as an "overshoot" caused by an immediate load reduction.
|
It is but it comes from the field not reducing instantly, not from the
VR.
Quote: | I
think your explanation is better than most that I've read, and I did
not
intend to infer that load dump was anything but real or that it could
not damage avionics.
Load dump is real, however the damage to Avionics can be greatly
reduced
or eliminated with some simple care.
|
I agree.
Quote: |
> Doesn't your Yak-50 use a B&C PM alternator?
No... All stock. Big ole heavy 3 KW 28 volt gen gen.
> They work differently and they will not exhibit load-dump effect.
Understood. Their "field" is pretty much a constant as I see it.
|
Exactly.
Quote: | > Turn them both off at the same time. I betcha you get a GOOD spike.
I intentionally avoided doing exactly that of course. My intent was
not
to say you were wrong, simply to say that it could be done if one was
even remotely careful. Sadly, I do not have a landing light. Fact is
the electrical load on a 50 is so trivial it is rather ridiculous to
have that monster generator in there in the first place.
|
And with no significant loads you will never see load dump. I bet you
could run that all day without a battery and never have a problem.
Quote: | > And you probably did not create a load-dump.
> That is where the problem arises. Do that again
> and remove a big load, e.g. turn off the headlights.
> Put a 'scope on the bus. It will make a believer out of you.
I did not mean in any way to trivialize the possible damage from
voltage
spikes achieved by turning off highly inductive loads in an aircraft
with the battery disconnected. What I meant to get across was that
using the knowledge given by knowledge of the theory, that one could
indeed operate with a dead battery and get away with it with little to
no damage using care.
|
I agree with that. See, we are just a pair of agreeable chaps. Time
for a group hug!
Quote: | > Mark, I like you. You are one of the few people in
> this world I have discussions like this with. But in
> this case, for better or for worse, I am right about
> this. Go look up "load dump".
Well, I like you too! Better yet, I trust your judgment. I
never
meant to argue with you about load dumping. I portrayed my point of
view poorly if you left with that impression and I am sorry. Your
points are all valid and I do not disagree with any of them. I do
admit
that I got the wrong impression from what you were saying too. All
small points really.
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As I have gotten older I find that I tend to not be completely clear
in my writing. I need to fix that.
Quote: | > Oh, and I stand by the self-exciting alternator too.
Yeah yeah... Well you have me doubting myself on that one as well.
Bothers the living hell out of me that I might have done something
wrong. I will figure that out.... I did run the tests... Nothing
worked.
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I believe you. What's different? We need to figure that out, probably
off list.
Quote: | So, I must be doing something wrong if you are doing the same
darn thing and it DOES work. When my tests failed, my conclusion was
not that your theory was wrong, only that there must not be enough
current available from the residual magnetism to get it all going.
|
And that could be. Not all internally-regulated alternators are self-
exciting. Yours might not be.
Quote: | I'll
do it again. I can see where I might be able to get the car example
to
work. I can not see what I did wrong that caused the aircraft not to
work.
|
If you want to play with it, open up the back and add a wire to the
power input to the VR. Now you can see what is happening inside your
particular alternator.
Quote: | > For externally-regulated alternators, this is 100% true. This means
almost all aircraft.
WAIT! Are you saying I was right about the aircraft?
|
Spam cans, yeah.
Quote: | So in reality the
only test that runs counter to your example is the car alternator on
my
Camaro? Really?
|
Well, I spend a lot of time in the experimental aircraft area. Most
use internally regulated automotive alternators and all that I have
said is true. I have never seen a production aircraft that flies under
a normal-category AC use an internally-regulated alternator until
recently. You can now get internally-regulated alternators from Plane
Power that are STC'd for many aircraft. I think they need an external
power source for the VR and field tho'. They probably won't self-excite.
Quote: | > Ah, landing gear. When the gear is finally down and the gear
> motor shuts off, look for one mutha' big-ass load-dump event.
> The dump it takes may be in your $20,000 glass PFD.
Yep. I agree that would be the biggest spike you would be likely to
achieve. Good point.
>> P.p.s. And Brian, I am not saying you are WRONG in any way.
> Ah, good. Because I *am* right.
Yep, you USUALLY are. HA!
> <sigh> And here I thought *I* was the most anal-retentive, pedantic
asshole on this list!
I guess you were wrong about that!
|
Yeah, I guess I was. (hee hee)
Quote: | Which brings to mind the quote: "I once thought I made a mistake,
but I
was in error"
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Oh hell, I am wrong all the time. I just don't let anybody know.
Quote: | Next question: Are you currently doing ANYTHING with your ham ticket?
Other than encouraging others I mean. I also wonder how many of the
list readers here are licensed hams?
|
I am on the air but mostly using it to teach the kids about
electricity and electronics. When I operate it is mostly PSK31. I am
planning to play with MFSK. I am also building a couple of little I/Q
transceivers using Tayloe mixers with all the modulation and
demodulation being done in software. Other than that, not much.
And I think we have gone as far as we reasonably can with this topic
on the Yak list. Let's continue privately.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
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dave(at)davelaird.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:20 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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Brian and Mark,
While I can appreciate someone who can assemble, or even spell, a
VSAT antenna, do either of you guys have
experience with a retro-encabulator?
Please see the following video for fodder:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=PtuqjFf7-N4
Most of what he says in the video reminds me of the language in some
of your posts!
Enjoy,
Dave Laird
N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
Dallas (ADS)
p.s. Brian I put a B&C alternator into Betty a couple of years
back....so she doesn't have your self excited Delco Truck Alternator
anymore!
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brian-1927(at)lloyd.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:06 pm Post subject: WARNING, DO NOT READ! It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
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On Feb 21, 2008, at 8:18 PM, Dave Laird wrote:
Quote: |
Brian and Mark,
While I can appreciate someone who can assemble, or even spell, a
VSAT antenna, do either of you guys have
experience with a retro-encabulator?
Please see the following video for fodder:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=PtuqjFf7-N4
Most of what he says in the video reminds me of the language in some
of your posts!
|
Jeez! The only difference is I use real words. Trust me, that makes it
MUCH harder for someone to twig to my BS.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
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