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912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck

 
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Dave Bigelow



Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Kamuela, Hawaii

PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:09 pm    Post subject: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

HKS recently put out a factory bulletin regarding fuel and engine oil. In a nutshell, they say not to use fuel with more than 5% ethanol, and lower than 91 octane. Aviation gas is OK.

They say to only use synthetic automotive oil.

The 4 stroke Rotax and HKS engines share many similarities. In my case, I can get 89 octane gas with no ethanol. I blend that 3:1 with 100/130 octane avgas to end up with gas that is above 91 octane. It is known that leaded gas and synthetic oil are not a good combination, but it appears that HKS owners are locked in to using synthetic automotive oil.

John, you probably have more 912 time than anyone alive. I know you use avgas during your cross-country trips, mainly because that is all you can get at many airports. How have you dealt with the lead/synthetic oil problem?


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Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:14 am    Post subject: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

How have you dealt with the lead/synthetic oil problem?
Quote:

--------
Dave Bigelow


Hi Dave B:

Generally, we use a synthetic blend on long flights with a steady diet of
100LL, and shorten the oil change cycle to 25 to 50 hours, or whenever it is
convenient to change oil. John W and I have used Valvoline Durablend
Semi-Synthetic with good results.

With my newest 912ULS I started out with Shell Rotella Full Synthetic, and
have used a 50/50 blend of Rotella Syn and Rotella Organic oil when flying
cross country.

I think I am going to go Shell Rotella Full Synthetic full time this next
year and try to keep tabs on how much lead is left in the bottom of the oil
tank at each oil change. The primary reason for running semi-sythetic is
synthetic does not suspend lead well, and organic oil does a better job of
suspending lead so you can dump it overboard at each oil change.

Lead is heavy and will find little nooks and crannies in the engine and oil
tank to settle and harden. I am told it is a good lube for valve seats, but
will harden and clog oil passages, plus cause accelerated wear on cams
lobes, lifters, rocker arms, ect.

Rotella Full Syn is cheaper than the other synthetics and readily available
at Walmart, which makes it easily obtainable during long cross country
flights. I can also pick up my Fram TG3614 oil filter while shopping
Walmart.

john h
mkIII


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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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Dave Bigelow



Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Kamuela, Hawaii

PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback, John.

Do you change the filter each time when doing the 25-50 hour cycle, or wait until the recommended interval?


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Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
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slyck(at)frontiernet.net
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:42 pm    Post subject: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

that 20-50 durablend is getting hard to find. I use it in a mix with
another weight in my suzuki.
BB
On 29, Feb 2008, at 11:01 AM, John Hauck wrote:

Quote:


How have you dealt with the lead/synthetic oil problem?
>
> --------
> Dave Bigelow
Hi Dave B:

Generally, we use a synthetic blend on long flights with a steady
diet of 100LL, and shorten the oil change cycle to 25 to 50 hours,
or whenever it is convenient to change oil. John W and I have used
Valvoline Durablend Semi-Synthetic with good results.

With my newest 912ULS I started out with Shell Rotella Full
Synthetic, and have used a 50/50 blend of Rotella Syn and Rotella
Organic oil when flying cross country.

I think I am going to go Shell Rotella Full Synthetic full time
this next year and try to keep tabs on how much lead is left in the
bottom of the oil tank at each oil change. The primary reason for
running semi-sythetic is synthetic does not suspend lead well, and
organic oil does a better job of suspending lead so you can dump it
overboard at each oil change.

Lead is heavy and will find little nooks and crannies in the engine
and oil tank to settle and harden. I am told it is a good lube for
valve seats, but will harden and clog oil passages, plus cause
accelerated wear on cams lobes, lifters, rocker arms, ect.

Rotella Full Syn is cheaper than the other synthetics and readily
available at Walmart, which makes it easily obtainable during long
cross country flights. I can also pick up my Fram TG3614 oil
filter while shopping Walmart.

john h
mkIII



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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:54 pm    Post subject: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

> Do you change the filter each time when doing the 25-50 hour cycle, or
wait until the recommended interval?
Quote:

--------
Dave Bigelow


David B:

Change the oil filter each time I dump the oil tank. Hopefully, this will
also help reduce lead in the system.

john h
mkIII


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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 8:07 pm    Post subject: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

> that 20-50 durablend is getting hard to find.

Quote:
BB


Bob B:

Walmart doesn't carry it, but Auto Zone does, as well as other popular auto
parts stores..

john h
mkIII


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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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John Bickham



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 170
Location: St. Francisville, LA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:06 am    Post subject: Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

John Hauck wrote:
How have you dealt with the lead/synthetic oil problem?
Quote:

--------
Dave Bigelow


I think I am going to go Shell Rotella Full Synthetic full time this next
year and try to keep tabs on how much lead is left in the bottom of the oil
tank at each oil change. The primary reason for running semi-sythetic is
synthetic does not suspend lead well, and organic oil does a better job of
suspending lead so you can dump it overboard at each oil change.

Lead is heavy and will find little nooks and crannies in the engine and oil
tank to settle and harden. I am told it is a good lube for valve seats, but
will harden and clog oil passages, plus cause accelerated wear on cams
lobes, lifters, rocker arms, ect.

john h
mkIII

John H.

Just a little info you may want to consider on your decision to go full synthetic.

I was able to see the gearbox inspection on John W's 912S when we left TNK Homecoming and stopped in at Ronnie's on the way home. It was interesting to see the lead deposits left on the clutch rings when it was dismantled.

I think you two a the best test benches for the 912 as far as number of hours flown per year. Similar flying conditions. John W may burn more Avagas than you, not sure.

Give John W a call and get his opinion. Just a suggestion.


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Thanks too much,

John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA

I know many pilots and a few true aviators. There is a distinct difference that I have the greatest respect for.
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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:39 am    Post subject: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

John W may burn more Avagas than you, not sure.
>
Quote:
John Bickham


Hi John B:

Thanks for the info.

Lead is a problem we are going to have to contend with if we cross country
and burn 100LL.

I'll have to change oil more often, and may have to go to 50/50 mix or
Rotella Dino and Full Syn. If you can't find it bottled by Shell, then
blend it yourself. That is what they do. Nothing magic.

john h
mkIII


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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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lucien



Joined: 03 Jun 2007
Posts: 721
Location: santa fe, NM

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: 912 Engine Oil - to John Hauck Reply with quote

Just for what it's worth (and John H and W's opinions will trump what I say here if different due to their far longer experience):

I've always gone by the manufacturer's requirements in terms of weight and service grade in the various motors I've owned over the years.

This means, first, any specific recommendations followed by the general recommendation on API service grade. I.e. Rotax has a list of specific oils they like you to use so I try to find one of those first. Then, if none of those are available, I look for a substitute and make sure it meets or exceeds the API service grage and weight requirement.
Then synthetic or semi depending on the leaded issue....

I.e. I currently use the valvoline 10w-40 and note that the API service grade is now up to SL/SM on that oil. Rotax says at least SF or SG so the SL/SM oil far exceeds the minimum required API grade for the motor.

Nice thing about the API grading system is their newer grades always include all the lubrication requirements of the previous grades, so you know using a later grade will still meet (and in fact exceed) the lube abilities of the earlier grade.

I've been running semi-synthetic all the time since that way I can put 100LL in on an occassional basis and not have to worry about it. I change the oil/filter when the dipstick starts looking gnarly regardless of hours or at 50 hours whichever comes first.

Works for me so far,

LS


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LS
Titan II SS
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