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flywrights(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:13 pm Post subject: Door fit

All,

  

 I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"

  

 Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.

  

 Thoughts and pointers?

  

  

 Rob Wright

 #392

 starting on door hinges

       Be a better friend, newshound, and  [quote][b]

ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:50 pm Post subject: Door fit

YMMV - but ". . . should I  naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to  make everything smooth and ready for paint?" is where I ended up.   Especially after the door seals were installed.

  

 cheers,

 Ron

 187 finishing



 [quote]         From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com    [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert    Wright

Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:41 PM

To:    rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Door    fit

   

      All,

    

   I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering,    "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush    while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation    to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming,    or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy    and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"

    

   Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters    of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready    for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.

    

   Thoughts and pointers?

    

    

   Rob Wright

   #392

   starting on door hinges

      Be a better friend, newshound, and  	  Quote: 	
		  



p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

ics.com

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[b]

Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:11 pm Post subject: Door fit

Rob, My experience was certainly Not ' cut/glue/hang/  it was more 

like... cut/glue/hang/fill/sand/hang/fill/sand/hang/fill/sand.......... 

you get the picture.  



http://deemsrv10.com/cabinwindowslogindex.html



   I'm NO master of fiberglass / epoxy, the good news is you really 

don't have to be, other than it being messy and sticky, there's not too 

much you can do w/ fiberglass that can't be corrected if you goof up. In 

the end  (I haven't installed door seals yet ....?) I'm happy with the 

fit of the doors to the cabin cover. But it took a LOT of additional 

work. A lot of it depends on you own taste and preferences, Van's 

fiberglass parts are not made with the same precision as the CNC metal 

parts. I'm sure that they all possess the required strength to do their 

respective functions. The additional work is really a mater of cosmetics 

and your personal preferences.

Deems Davis # 406

'Its all done....Its just not put together'

http://deemsrv10.com/



Robert Wright wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   All,

  

 I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am 

 wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping 

 everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight 

 bulge on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should everything 

 look perfect as a result of trimming, or should I naturally be 

 expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to make 

 everything smooth and ready for paint?"

  

 Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like 

 masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're 

 ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.

  

 Thoughts and pointers?

 *



 *

acs(at)acspropeller.com.a
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:03 pm Post subject: Door fit

Rob, I was very careful as well but in the end you could fit a small animal between the door and the canopy.  

I ended up fibreglassing my doors shut and then creating and molding the canopy to the door with a gentle transition.   

Finally I re-cut the original opening back through. Wasted a lot of time on this and agonized over it way too much and in the end it was simple enough to fix.  

I also removed the small animal so it didn’t suffocate because the doors were now airtight.  

John 40315 Cowls.    

   

        

  

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Wright

 Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:11 PM

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Door fit  

  

       

All,  

    

   

    

I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"  

    

   

    

Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.  

    

   

    

Thoughts and pointers?  

    

   

    

   

    

Rob Wright  

    

#392  

    

starting on door hinges  

  

  

       

  

Be a better friend, newshound, and    	  Quote: 	
		              - The RV10-List Email Forum ---> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 	
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9

       [quote][b]

dc71(at)netspace.net.au
Guest

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:47 am Post subject: Door fit

Now we all come out of hiding...

The gap between my first set of doors & the canopy was more than the allowable small animal.



Have recently taken delivery of a new set of door shells. The local FG aeroplane guru will be supervising the second set over Easter - has already suggested many changes to the procedure in the Van's manual, such as clecoing the shells all the way around the perimeter; heat gun to remove any bending stress before joining; and totally ignoring the preformed dimples.



As a side note, the new pink layups are better surface quality than the old green ones. 



Will post more info (&pics) when doors done.



Indran

#228 - soon to be a four door RV10

On 13/03/2008, at 3:55 PM, John Dunne wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Rob, I was very careful as well but in the end you could fit a small animal between the door and the canopy.

I ended up fibreglassing my doors shut and then creating and molding the canopy to the door with a gentle transition.

Finally I re-cut the original opening back through. Wasted a lot of time on this and agonized over it way too much and in the end it was simple enough to fix.

I also removed the small animal so it didn’t suffocate because the doors were now airtight.

John 40315 Cowls.

 

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Robert Wright

Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:11 PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Door fit



 

All,



 



I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"



 



Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.



 



Thoughts and pointers?



 



 



Rob Wright



#392



starting on door hinges

 



Be a better friend, newshound, and

 	  Quote: 	
		              - The RV10-List Email Forum -               - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ---> http://forums.matronics.com             - List Contribution Web Site -                              -Matt Dralle, List Admin. 	
0 	  Quote: 	
		   	
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2

	


 [quote][b]

roadmaps

Joined: 08 Nov 2007
Posts: 49

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:57 am Post subject: Door fit

Rob,

  

 I spent countless hours  getting the doors to fit well - and them countless more after the seals were  installed. I even had the doors painted first, final installed seals and then  filled/sanded the canopy before painting. As my partner is working on a second  plane we are thinking of using a square rabbit in the canopy for the door edge  to fit into instead of the 45 degree angle. This would avoid the thin door edge.  Anyone else done this?

  

  John Testement

jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)

40321

 Richmond, VA

Painting

  



 

 // All,

   

 I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering,  "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush while  the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation to the  canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming, or should  I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to  make everything smooth and ready for paint?"

  

 Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of  the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for  the paint booth after a coat of primer on.

  

 Thoughts and pointers?

  

 

 



 

  Checked by AVG.

 3/12/2008 1:27 PM

     [quote][b]

Nick Leonard

Joined: 18 Jun 2007
Posts: 35
Location: Sacramento, CA

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:29 am Post subject: Re: Door fit

Fitting the doors...certainly one of my favorite parts of the construction process.  After countless hours of trying to get a decent fit just to get them to close (no seals yet), while the whole time my hangar mate (who's building an RV-8A) keeps coming over and saying that they are good enough, just move on.  "Go look at a Cirrus and see the quality that they do" was his encouragement to stop "wasting" my time.  So I did and it was an eye opener.  I was absolutely amazed at not just the size of the gap, especially along the front and top edges, but the inconsistency of the gap.  It was embarrassing to think that someone paid almost 1/2 million dollars for that kind of workmanship.



So I know that I will have a lot more work to do when I add the seals and it will end up ten time better than the Cirrus.  It doesn't have to be a paper thickness sized gap to be functional and attractive.



Now, on to putting in the windows...I really am missing squeezing rivets!

_________________
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Flying

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:57 am Post subject: Re: Door fit

John,



I did what you are considering, and really like the results. I did not like the fragility of a 45 degree edge on the doors, and found the inconsistent rolled edge on the canopy impossible to trim to. So I squared off the door edges using the double layer of masking tape method to trim the door edges about 1/16 inch inside the canopy edge. When fitting the doors I focused on getting the bottom edge of each door properly aligned with the fuselage skin, as this was an area I did not want to use flox or micro. There were spots where the door side edges stood proud of the canopy edge, but that was OK because I knew that some of the window edges were going to be proud of the canopy also. Once the windows were installed, the canopy surface was built up with a flox/micro mix to match the window and door surface and a new canopy edge was created to match the squared off door edge. The result is a solid door edge and a nice, consistant matching edge for the canopy door opening.



Jim Berry

40482

N15JB(reserved)

orchidman

Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
Location: Oklahoma City - KRCE

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:21 am Post subject: Re: Door fit

 	  jim berry wrote: 	
		  John,

The result is a solid door edge and a nice, consistant matching edge for the canopy door opening. 	


Jim, any chance in seeing some pictures?

_________________
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:40 pm Post subject: Re: Door fit

Gary,



Sorry, I did not take any pics.



Jim Berry

40482

toaster73(at)embarqmail.c
Guest

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:04 pm Post subject: Door fit

Robert,

 Someone wrote before that "the fit is right when  you are tired of sanding and re-filling and sanding" perhaps that was Deems.   I made a couple of mods to the process for initial fit. 

 1) I glued (with super glue) two strips of trimmed  door glass to the outside of the door, fore and aft where the two  protruding alignment tabs are.  I match drilled through the tabs into the  glued on piece. THen I cut the tabs off.  That allowed the door to  begin its journey into flush fit with the canopy. As I took the door on and off  it would go pretty much right back to where it was every time. See  photo.

 2) After I got the fit pretty darn good I mixed a  thick epoxy/flox and spread it over the door and cabin top at the joint until I  had a nice surface together. I did this just in a couple of areas that were  troublesome. This mixture would not flow at all and this was with hinges on but  no door seal. I then lifted the door open slightly so it wouldn't all glue  together.  Yes, it did pull a little ridge of the mix up but not much if  done careful.

 After it dried I just knocked of the ridge with the  sanding block and I have a razor like fit.  This is with a 45 degree style  door.  I also coated the 45 degree portion of the door with pure epoxy to  give it durability.

 I'll revisit the fit with the door seals on, those  just arrived . I am trying the ones from Aviation Tech  Products.

 The alignment tabs supe glued on are easy to pop  right off and then sand away the residue. Don't need much glue either just a  couple drops.

 -Chris

 #40072

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acs(at)acspropeller.com.a
Guest

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:41 pm Post subject: Door fit

Hi Indran, good to see you’re still plugging away.  

I suppose I should clarify what I meant by “small animal” in case someone gets the idea it’s O.K to have a gap the size of a beaver.  

My gap was more like 4 to 5mm at the worst spot.  

For what it’s worth, the fit was good prior to the window installation.  

John 40315  

         

  

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran Chelvanayagam

 Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 10:44 PM

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Door fit  

  

   

Now we all come out of hiding...    

   

    

The gap between my first set of doors & the canopy was more than the allowable small animal.  

    

   

    

Have recently taken delivery of a new set of door shells. The local FG aeroplane guru will be supervising the second set over Easter - has already suggested many changes to the procedure in the Van's manual, such as clecoing the shells all the way around the perimeter; heat gun to remove any bending stress before joining; and totally ignoring the preformed dimples.  

    

   

    

As a side note, the new pink layups are better surface quality than the old green ones.   

    

   

    

Will post more info (&pics) when doors done.  

    

   

    

Indran  

    

#228 - soon to be a four door RV10  

    

   

    

       

On 13/03/2008, at 3:55 PM, John Dunne wrote:  

  

 <![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]> <![endif]>          

Rob, I was very careful as well but in the end you could fit a small animal between the door and the canopy.  

    

I ended up fibreglassing my doors shut and then creating and molding the canopy to the door with a gentle transition.  

    

Finally I re-cut the original opening back through. Wasted a lot of time on this and agonized over it way too much and in the end it was simple enough to fix.  

    

I also removed the small animal so it didn’t suffocate because the doors were now airtight.  

    

John 40315 Cowls.  

      

   

  

        

    

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Robert Wright

 Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:11 PM

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

 Subject: Door fit  

  

    

   

        

All,  

  

      

   

  

      

I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"  

  

      

   

  

      

Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.  

  

      

   

  

      

Thoughts and pointers?  

  

      

   

  

      

   

  

      

Rob Wright  

  

      

#392  

  

      

starting on door hinges  

  

  

    

   

      

    

Be a better friend, newshound, and  

   	  Quote: 	
		              - The RV10-List Email Forum - 	


  

  

  

  

        [quote][b]

rvreynolds(at)macs.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:22 am Post subject: Door fit

John,

We put a 1/8 square rabbit in the canopy door frame. it made the door very easy to fit. Make it deep enough for the thickest part of the door. Be careful when trimming the canopy frame in way of the aluminum fuselage frame.



Please note!



After trimming the door to the factory scribe lines, take equal amounts off the forward and aft edges. The temptation is after getting one edge to fit, removing the remainder from the other edge. DON'T, because it makes the inside "jam" unequal. (Ask me how I know)



Also, the top of the canopy door frame really does not need the rabbit, The top edge of the door WILL require a bevel to open properly!



Richard Reynolds

On Mar 13, 2008, at 8:54 AM, John Testement wrote:

[quote]  Rob,

  

 I spent countless hours getting the doors to fit well - and them countless more after the seals were installed. I even had the doors painted first, final installed seals and then filled/sanded the canopy before painting. As my partner is working on a second plane we are thinking of using a square rabbit in the canopy for the door edge to fit into instead of the 45 degree angle. This would avoid the thin door edge. Anyone else done this?

  

  John Testement

jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)

40321

 Richmond, VA

Painting

  



 

 // All,

   

 I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"

  

 Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.

  

 Thoughts and pointers?

  

 

 



 

 Checked by AVG.

 3/12/2008 1:27 PM

 

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[b]

roadmaps

Joined: 08 Nov 2007
Posts: 49

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:58 am Post subject: Door fit

Richard,

  

 I really like this idea -  how did you make the rabbit? Router? How did you guide it around the  frame?

  

  John Testement

jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)

40321

 Richmond, VA

Painting

 do not archive

   From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com  [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard  Reynolds

Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 7:19 AM

To:  rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Door  fit

 

John, 

 We put a 1/8 square rabbit in the canopy door frame. it made the door very  easy to fit. Make it deep enough for the thickest part of the door. Be careful  when trimming the canopy frame in way of the aluminum fuselage frame.

 

 Please note!

 

 After trimming the door to the factory scribe lines, take equal amounts off  the forward and aft edges. The temptation is after getting one edge to fit,  removing the remainder from the other edge. DON'T, because it makes the inside  "jam" unequal. (Ask me how I know)

 

 Also, the top of the canopy door frame really does not need the rabbit, The  top edge of the door WILL require a bevel to open properly!

 

 Richard Reynolds

 

 

  On Mar 13, 2008, at 8:54 AM, John Testement wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		     Rob,

    

   I spent countless hours    getting the doors to fit well - and them countless more after the seals were    installed. I even had the doors painted first, final installed seals and then    filled/sanded the canopy before painting. As my partner is working on a second    plane we are thinking of using a square rabbit in the canopy for the door edge    to fit into instead of the 45 degree angle. This would avoid the thin door    edge. Anyone else done this?

    

      John Testement

jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)

40321

   Richmond, VA

Painting

    



   

 // All,

       

   I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering,    "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush    while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in relation    to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of trimming,    or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy    and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"

    

   Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters    of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready    for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.

    

   Thoughts and pointers?

    

   

 

Checked by AVG.

3/12/2008 1:27    PM

   

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     [quote][b]

davelammers(at)mchsi.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:41 am Post subject: Door fit

John,

 Did you do the window install with the door on, or off, the fuselage?

 If off, do you think that the post install fit issue could have been reduced if the install were made with the door on the fuselage?

 Thanks,

 Dave Lammers

 finishing

 

 John Dunne wrote: [quote]                     v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}  <![endif]-->         <![endif]-->        Clean   DocumentEmail         false   false   false   MicrosoftInternetExplorer4   <![endif]-->     <![endif]-->  st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }  <![endif]-->          /* Style Definitions */   table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:""; 	mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0cm; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:10.0pt; 	font-family:"Times New Roman"; 	mso-ansi-language:#0400; 	mso-fareast-language:#0400; 	mso-bidi-language:#0400;}  <![endif]-->         

Hi Indran, good to see you’re still plugging away.   

I suppose I should clarify what I meant by “small animal” in case someone gets the idea it’s O.K to have a gap the size of a beaver.   

My gap was more like 4 to 5mm at the worst spot.   

For what it’s worth, the fit was good prior to the window installation.   

John 40315   

    	  Quote: 	
		  

	
 [b]

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:38 am Post subject: Re: Door fit

I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but in the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge square so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge, the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you have the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the packing tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge, and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.



Jim Berry

40482

N15JB(reserved)

ricksked(at)embarqmail.co
Guest

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 9:25 am Post subject: Door fit

The gap the size of a BEAVER???   .......maybe you should have said Polecat..

---

KiloPapa

Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 142
Location: Pearblossom, CA

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:55 am Post subject: Door fit

General door fitting questions:



Are you installing the door seals prior to painting?  If so,

why?

Is it necessary to have the seal installed during the door

fitting process?  If so, why?



Thanks,



Kevin

40494

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Kevin
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KiloPapa

Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 142
Location: Pearblossom, CA

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 11:07 am Post subject: Door fit

Chris,



Is the seal from ATP hollow?  Will you be mounting it

temporarily at this fitting check, assuming pre-paint?  Is

the choice of door seal necessary to know at the time of

door fitting?



Thanks,



Kevin

40494

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



----- Original Message Follows -----

From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>

To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: Re: Door fit

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 22:01:35 -0400



....and this was with hinges on but no door seal. 



....I'll revisit the fit with the door seals on, those just

arrived . I am trying the ones from Aviation Tech Products.



-Chris

 	  Quote: 	
		  #40072

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Kevin
40494

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acs(at)acspropeller.com.a
Guest

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:15 pm Post subject: Door fit

Dave, I did the window install on the fuse. It was  a very hot day if I recall (36C around 100F) and the weld-on went off very  quickly...too quickly for my liking but my figuring on a hot day was the plexi  was more pliable and less likely to suffer any cracks. I must admit, I came back  a few days later and removed the doors and it wasn't until I re-installed them  some weeks later that I actually noticed the problem.

 It had me a little perplexed as I'd think it  unlikely the bowing would have been caused by the window install and curing  process. My initial thoughts were that I didn't have the doors back in their  exact position when re-installed but in the end I figured a few people were  suffering a similar result albeit no-one was really openly discussing it and the  finer finish work was my responsibility in any case. Like I previously stated I  wasted far to much time on this and it only annoyed me because all the metal  work up until that point was precise and a pleasure to work on. Once I got over  the "take it from the box and fit it" mentality I started to enjoy the  flexibility of the glass work and the ease with which you can fix  mistakes.

 John 40315

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