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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:56 am Post subject: Perhaps a better fitting door when latched. |
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In my previous post, I described the point of my build where I was questioning what to do with the plastic door blocks that are screwed to the fuse, the ones that the pins go through, as mine where flush with the fuse sides. Even though these acted as a door pin stops which would prevent the pins from chipping the paint in the event the pins were not completely retracted, when the door is being closed, I opted to trim them back instead of pocketing out the door edge. Now they act as door stops and are trimmed back from the fuse edge, the thickness of the door material.
After the door was able to go back into its position that I had spend so many hours fitting, I engaged the pins to full position and noted that both door did not fit the same way as when the pins were not engaged. After much analysing...here is my idea as to why.
I spend so much effort and time making sure that that I marked where the pins hit the canopy opening, I was very careful to make sure I dilled my holes for the pins correctly, straight and true. I even went as far as to drill each hole with a small bit and incrementally step up bit sizes and I did it from the front as well as from the back. I used a straght edge as a guide to remain parallel to the side and in a fore/aft dimension.
The problem is that the cabin sill, fiberglass canopy top and the metal fuselage member are almost 1/4 inch thick and one needs to drill that pin hole so that it is perfectly parallel, in all dimensions to the door pin, because if the hole isn't true, the back half of the hole will cause the door to ride up on that pin and cause the door to fit differently when the pins are engaged.
Another way to do this or to fix it is to do the following:
Drill the holes as suggested in the manual, if the problem does occur, remove the plastic guiding blocks, the ones that remain attached to the cabin side, then enlarge the hole slighly with a dremel sanding drum on the offending side of the hole( the side of the hole which engages too much) and re-check that the pins go into the hole without any interference while the door is jigged and clamped in its perfect position.
Fabricate out of 1" X 2.5" X 1/8" aluminum a new hole. Drill to 7/16". Have the door closed in its' perfectly positioned place and close the pins to their maximum extension and place the new plate over the pin and glue it onto the metal channel which makes up the fuselage side. (NOTE: I ALSO FABRICATED NEW FORWARD PINS TO A LITTLE LONGER, ABOUT 3/16" LONGER AND CUT THE BEVEL LESS STEEP, SO INSTEAD OF 60 DEGREES, I DID 50 DEGREES OF BEVEL,( this severs to have the entire pin tube held by the hole. Because the bevel is facing up and out, the unbevelled portion of the tube was just barely all the way through the aluminum fuse member.) Note#2 there seems to be enough distance between the pin while they are in their maximum open position and the plastic guide block on the fuse side to allow the pins to be made longer.
Back to the new plate. Once glue is set, re drill the AN3 screw holes that are used to attach the plastic guide block and place longer screws to go all the thru the plastic block, thru the fiberglass, through the metal fuse side and through the new plate. One will most likely need to make new plastic guide blocks because the position of the hole is in a slightly different positon in relation to the screw holes. The enlarged hole in the fiberglass can be fixed by resin and cotton flox and the pin vasolined and placed in the closed position while curing. This should be done while the new plastic blocks are in place to minimize sanding.
If this is done, all of this should be done, first by carefully checking which pin hole is the offending one or whether it is both, by trying all combinations of one plastic blocks on the other off, etc.
Side Note: Remember, there should be four holes placed in the door handle gear pocket sides to allow the full 135 degrees of handle movement. The mechanism needs to be centerred, and the toothed arms need to be at their maximum closed positon against the blind rivet when the handle is in its' closed positon. The pins need to extend all the way into the metal fuse member. With all this done, I see no way how one could not realize the door is ajar and the pins are absolutely long enough that they cannot pull out.
John Gonzalez
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AirMike
Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada
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| Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 6:50 am Post subject: Perhaps a better fitting door when latched. |
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Why are you not using the Rivethead door pins? Way better
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See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold. |
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 10:10 am Post subject: Perhaps a better fitting door when latched. |
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Same reason I am not using dual Cheltons, aftermarket, custom made cabin top and fifteen thousand dollar, custom painted carbon prop and six bottom infinity grips. To each there own. After all, it is a consumer driven society
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