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jgswartout(at)earthlink.n Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:47 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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Does anyone have a nice, elegant method for mounting on a flat surface the in-line automotive-type fuse-holder sold by B&C? It has no built-in mounting tab or any such thing.
Thanks.
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rshannon
Joined: 05 Sep 2007 Posts: 62
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:47 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 4:43 PM, John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net (jgswartout(at)earthlink.net)> wrote:
Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net (jgswartout(at)earthlink.net)>
Does anyone have a nice, elegant method for mounting on a flat surface the in-line automotive-type fuse-holder sold by B&C? It has no built-in mounting tab or any such thing.
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If you're referring to B&C's "HFB" inline yellow fuse holder, an MS21919-WDG11 "Adel" clamp works well -- nice and snug --on the one end where there's space for it.
Ron
[quote][b]
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rshannon
Joined: 05 Sep 2007 Posts: 62
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:58 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 5:43 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon(at)cruzcom.com (rshannon(at)cruzcom.com)> wrote:
Quote: | On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 4:43 PM, John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net (jgswartout(at)earthlink.net)> wrote:
Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net (jgswartout(at)earthlink.net)>
Does anyone have a nice, elegant method for mounting on a flat surface the in-line automotive-type fuse-holder sold by B&C? It has no built-in mounting tab or any such thing.
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If you're referring to B&C's "HFB" inline yellow fuse holder, an MS21919-WDG11 "Adel" clamp works well -- nice and snug --on the one end where there's space for it.
Ron
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You're probably referring instead to the black blade-style fuse holder (IFH-2) though. You can put a black cable "zip" tie around the base (circle parallel to the wire) attached to a stick-on nylon zip tie holder. The holder will keep it off the surface a bit which aids access to the fuse. Not super "elegant", but it works.
Ron
[quote][b]
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jim jewell
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 82 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 5:10 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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John,
The Buss fuse holders that I used had recessed holes suitable for number 8
machine screws. The local hardware store aircraft section supplied screws of
correct length.
Jim in Kelowna
---
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longg(at)pjm.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:47 am Post subject: Mechanical question |
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The simple and elegant solution is to use a dab of epoxy. I will stick
to anything. Position the holder such that you can get the top off to
service the fuse. If you want to buy something take a look at click-bond
products. They have a fastener for everything you could ever want to tie
down in your airplane. Warning - they are not exactly cheap.
--
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jgswartout(at)earthlink.n Guest
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Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:45 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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I'll take a look at the Click Bond website. I see you have to register (Grrrrrrr!!!!) to look at their products. Thanks for the tip. I have a hunch I'll wish I'd known about them about 3,000 hours of airplane-building ago.
John
--
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rshannon
Joined: 05 Sep 2007 Posts: 62
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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 7:43 am Post subject: Mechanical question |
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FWIW - I'm a big Click Bond fan, and have used several of their products extensively in my project. The retail source in the US is http://theflightshop.com, and you don't have to register before looking. Very helpful and knowledgeable folks there. Email me off list if I can help in any way.
Ron
Murphy Rebel
http://n254mr.com
On Fri, Apr 25, 2008 at 10:39 PM, John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net (jgswartout(at)earthlink.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net (jgswartout(at)earthlink.net)>
I'll take a look at the Click Bond website. I see you have to register (Grrrrrrr!!!!) to look at their products. Thanks for the tip. I have a hunch I'll wish I'd known about them about 3,000 hours of airplane-building ago.
John
[b]
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Speedy11(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 6:30 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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Besides the aggravation of having to register to view their products, I find their products not suitable for aviation. I have used their nutplates and ty wrap anchors and found both to be unsuitable for use in my airplane. Their adhesive does not adhere well. For example, of the nutplates I installed (about 40), half came loose. Perhaps I didn't do a good job of applying the adhesive, but I doubt I would have screwed up 20 of them. The reasons I don't like using Click-Bond nutplates is because:
1. Nutplates are typically used in locations that are otherwise difficult to access. When the nutplate comes unglued (it's a matter of time) you cannot remove the screw to replace it because the nutplate spins with the screw. The nutplates are shorter than normal riveted nutplates and thus they can spin in a small space. If the nutplate location is not accessable, you have to cut through panels to get to it.
2. If (when) a nutplate comes loose and frees itself from the screw (or falls off while removing a screw), it can become FOD inside the airplane to get jammed in (you name it) controls, cables, etc.
Ask me how I've learned these things.
Personally, I threw away my $100 worth of Click-Bond products. I didn't give them to anyone because I didn't want anyone else to suffer the same aggravations and fears I did. I use only normal nutplates or screws with nuts.
Perhaps others have had better results with Click-Bond, but I am not satisfied with them and cannot recommend them.
Stan Sutterfield
Do not archive
Quote: | I'll take a look at the Click Bond website. I see you have to register (Grrrrrrr!!!!)
to look at their products. Thanks for the tip. I have a hunch I'll wish
I'd known about them about 3,000 hours of airplane-building ago. |
Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos.
[quote][b]
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rshannon
Joined: 05 Sep 2007 Posts: 62
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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:15 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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I have installed at least 200 Click Bond fasteners, including nutplates from #6 to -4's, studs, zip tie anchors, etc. Only one didn't cure properly, because I used old adhesive (way beyond marked expiration) which I kind of knew going on didn't seem right. It was easy to replace. I have taken screws in and out of many of these many times. They're rock solid.
With easy proper prep, I've never had a problem. I don't understand how you could possibly have had such bad luck, but am sorry to hear it.
Ron
On Sat, Apr 26, 2008 at 7:25 PM, <Speedy11(at)aol.com (Speedy11(at)aol.com)> wrote:
[quote] Besides the aggravation of having to register to view their products, I find their products not suitable for aviation. I have used their nutplates and ty wrap anchors and found both to be unsuitable for use in my airplane. Their adhesive does not adhere well. For example, of the nutplates I installed (about 40), half came loose. Perhaps I didn't do a good job of applying the adhesive, but I doubt I would have screwed up 20 of them. The reasons I don't like using Click-Bond nutplates is because:
1. Nutplates are typically used in locations that are otherwise difficult to access. When the nutplate comes unglued (it's a matter of time) you cannot remove the screw to replace it because the nutplate spins with the screw. The nutplates are shorter than normal riveted nutplates and thus they can spin in a small space. If the nutplate location is not accessable, you have to cut through panels to get to it.
2. If (when) a nutplate comes loose and frees itself from the screw (or falls off while removing a screw), it can become FOD inside the airplane to get jammed in (you name it) controls, cables, etc.
Ask me how I've learned these things.
Personally, I threw away my $100 worth of Click-Bond products. I didn't give them to anyone because I didn't want anyone else to suffer the same aggravations and fears I did. I use only normal nutplates or screws with nuts.
Perhaps others have had better results with Click-Bond, but I am not satisfied with them and cannot recommend them.
Stan Sutterfield
Do not archive
[b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:11 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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At 10:25 PM 4/26/2008 -0400, you wrote:
Quote: | Besides the aggravation of having to register to view their products, I
find their products not suitable for aviation. I have used their
nutplates and ty wrap anchors and found both to be unsuitable for use in
my airplane. Their adhesive does not adhere well. For example, of the
nutplates I installed (about 40), half came loose. Perhaps I didn't do a
good job of applying the adhesive, but I doubt I would have screwed up 20
of them. The reasons I don't like using Click-Bond nutplates is because:
1. Nutplates are typically used in locations that are otherwise difficult
to access. When the nutplate comes unglued (it's a matter of time) you
cannot remove the screw to replace it because the nutplate spins with the
screw. The nutplates are shorter than normal riveted nutplates and thus
they can spin in a small space. If the nutplate location is not
accessable, you have to cut through panels to get to it.
2. If (when) a nutplate comes loose and frees itself from the screw (or
falls off while removing a screw), it can become FOD inside the airplane
to get jammed in (you name it) controls, cables, etc.
Ask me how I've learned these things.
Personally, I threw away my $100 worth of Click-Bond products. I didn't
give them to anyone because I didn't want anyone else to suffer the same
aggravations and fears I did. I use only normal nutplates or screws with nuts.
Perhaps others have had better results with Click-Bond, but I am not
satisfied with them and cannot recommend them.\
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It would be useful to know how the system is failing you.
They're used all over the airplanes at Hawker-Beech.
I've never installed any personally but many folks I work
around have used them.
I will note that the only airplanes/places I specifically
recall their use is on the composite surfaces of structure
and fuselage. It may be that the recommended adhesive for
aluminum surfaces is different. I wish you hadn't pitched
the surplus, it would have been an interesting experiment
to see what was happening.
Bob . . .
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tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:35 am Post subject: Mechanical question |
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I add my data point on them. Not to be contrary, but I have never had one come off and indeed when I have misplaced one I found it very difficult to remove. I wonder Stan, what kind of surface you were adhering to? Boeing, Lockheed and Airbus use them, can’t be all that bad.
Tim Andres
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 7:26 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Mechanical question
Besides the aggravation of having to register to view their products, I find their products not suitable for aviation. I have used their nutplates and ty wrap anchors and found both to be unsuitable for use in my airplane. Their adhesive does not adhere well. For example, of the nutplates I installed (about 40), half came loose. Perhaps I didn't do a good job of applying the adhesive, but I doubt I would have screwed up 20 of them. The reasons I don't like using Click-Bond nutplates is because:
1. Nutplates are typically used in locations that are otherwise difficult to access. When the nutplate comes unglued (it's a matter of time) you cannot remove the screw to replace it because the nutplate spins with the screw. The nutplates are shorter than normal riveted nutplates and thus they can spin in a small space. If the nutplate location is not accessable, you have to cut through panels to get to it.
2. If (when) a nutplate comes loose and frees itself from the screw (or falls off while removing a screw), it can become FOD inside the airplane to get jammed in (you name it) controls, cables, etc.
Ask me how I've learned these things.
Personally, I threw away my $100 worth of Click-Bond products. I didn't give them to anyone because I didn't want anyone else to suffer the same aggravations and fears I did. I use only normal nutplates or screws with nuts.
Perhaps others have had better results with Click-Bond, but I am not satisfied with them and cannot recommend them.
Stan Sutterfield
Do not archive
Quote: |
I'll take a look at the Click Bond website. I see you have to register (Grrrrrrr!!!!)
to look at their products. Thanks for the tip. I have a hunch I'll wish
I'd known about them about 3,000 hours of airplane-building ago. |
Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos.
Quote: | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List | 0123456789
[quote][b]
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bakerocb
Joined: 15 Jan 2006 Posts: 727 Location: FAIRFAX VA
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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:00 am Post subject: Mechanical question |
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4/27/2008
Hello Stan, Take a look at Perforated Base Binding Nuts and Studs on page
3120 of the
http://www.mcmaster.com/
online catalog as alternatives to both Click Bond and EZ-Point hardware.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
--------------------------------------------------------
Time: 07:30:10 PM PST US
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Mechanical question
Besides the aggravation of having to register to view their products, I
find
their products not suitable for aviation. I have used their nutplates and
ty wrap anchors and found both to be unsuitable for use in my airplane.
Their
adhesive does not adhere well. For example, of the nutplates I installed
(about 40), half came loose. Perhaps I didn't do a good job of applying
the
adhesive, but I doubt I would have screwed up 20 of them. The reasons I
don't
like using Click-Bond nutplates is because:
1. Nutplates are typically used in locations that are otherwise difficult
to
access. When the nutplate comes unglued (it's a matter of time) you cannot
remove the screw to replace it because the nutplate spins with the screw.
The nutplates are shorter than normal riveted nutplates and thus they can
spin
in a small space. If the nutplate location is not accessable, you have to
cut through panels to get to it.
2. If (when) a nutplate comes loose and frees itself from the screw (or
falls off while removing a screw), it can become FOD inside the airplane to
get
jammed in (you name it) controls, cables, etc.
Ask me how I've learned these things.
Personally, I threw away my $100 worth of Click-Bond products. I didn't
give them to anyone because I didn't want anyone else to suffer the same
aggravations and fears I did. I use only normal nutplates or screws with
nuts.
Perhaps others have had better results with Click-Bond, but I am not
satisfied with them and cannot recommend them.
Stan Sutterfield
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Speedy11(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:07 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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Very Cool! Thanks for pointing them out to me.
Stan
Do not archive
Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos.
[quote][b]
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Speedy11(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:18 pm Post subject: Mechanical question |
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Considering how many people have had success with them, the fault obviously lies with me.
I was adhering to bare aluminum.
I have already switched to all normal riveted nutplates and I'm very happy with them.
Stan Sutterfield
Quote: | I add my data point on them. Not to be contrary, but I have never had one
come off and indeed when I have misplaced one I found it very difficult to
remove. I wonder Stan, what kind of surface you were adhering to? Boeing,
Lockheed and Airbus use them, can't be all that bad.
Tim Andres |
Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos.
[quote][b]
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