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Installing cabin top plastic

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craig(at)craigandjean.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 2:00 pm Post subject: Installing cabin top plastic

Does anyone have any advice on, or photos of installing the top Lexan window

(7F19-1)? The plans are pretty light in this area and I don't see anything

in the photo guide.



The plans indicate that the Lexan is just riveted to the cabin frame. Will

it crack? What about the rivets through the top longeron gusset 7F3-3SP

(what does the "SP" suffix mean anyway?). Do those rivets pass through the

Lexan and the gusset (unlikely) or does the window just rest on top of the

rivets in this area?



-- Craig

kmccune

Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 577
Location: Wisconsin, USA

Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject: Re: Installing cabin top plastic

I'm not that far, but lexan will not crack.  Acrylic will crack when most inconvenient to you however.. They are not the same.....FYI.

..

Kevin

_________________
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Dorothy McCune

moorecomp

Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 32

Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 7:49 pm Post subject: Re: Installing cabin top plastic

[quote="craig(at)craigandjean.com"]Does anyone have any advice on, or photos of installing the top Lexan window

(7F19-1)? The plans are pretty light in this area and I don't see anything

in the photo guide.



The plans indicate that the Lexan is just riveted to the cabin frame. Will

it crack? What about the rivets through the top longeron gusset 7F3-3SP

(what does the "SP" suffix mean anyway?). Do those rivets pass through the

Lexan and the gusset (unlikely) or does the window just rest on top of the

rivets in this area?



-- Craig[/quote]



Craig,



According to drawing 7-G-2, suffix "SP" designates new parts or modified parts to comply with the 1100lb. gross weight increase.



Best regards,



Craig Moore A&P

Mancelona, MI

701 builder wannabe



do not archive

challgren(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 8:15 pm Post subject: Installing cabin top plastic

On Jun 6, 2008, at 3:59 PM, Craig Payne wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 >



 Does anyone have any advice on, or photos of installing the top  

 Lexan window

 (7F19-1)? The plans are pretty light in this area and I don't see  

 anything

 in the photo guide.



 The plans indicate that the Lexan is just riveted to the cabin  

 frame. Will

 it crack? What about the rivets through the top longeron gusset  

 7F3-3SP

 (what does the "SP" suffix mean anyway?). Do those rivets pass  

 through the

 Lexan and the gusset (unlikely) or does the window just rest on top  

 of the

 rivets in this area?



Craig:
	




You are having the same problem I had for about two months.  I was so  

confused about the two different door instructions they were talking  

about I finally called Caleb at Zenair.  I have the all lexan door (a  

third type door) and I found there were no plans for that door.  If  

you have the same one, call me and I think I can explain what to do as  

we did about 90% of the pilot side door today.



If you have the door with the metal bottom I can explain which plans  

you have to follow.



Your questions: The Lexan will not crack.  I used a 3/32" bit first  

and then expanded it to 3/16" with a bit designed for plexiglass  

work.  Try it on a piece of scrap first.  I used the scrap from what I  

had to cut off the top of the door.



If you have more questions send me a message at <challgren(at)mac.com>  

and I will respond.



Stan

Mike Hoffman

Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 54

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 2:08 am Post subject: Re: Installing cabin top plastic

When I installed my Lexan top, I tried to score the edge and snap it over the side of my table. When it snapped, it broke and did not follow the line. I had to buy another piece ($75.00) from a local source.



The second piece was cut with a cut off wheel and filed smooth.



Mike H

txpilot

Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 87
Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 7:26 am Post subject: Re: Installing cabin top plastic

I just installed my top window.  A couple tips I've learned:



Aircraft Spruce sells a special drill bit for Lexan and Plexiglass.  Here's the link:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/plexidrill.php



I've used the 1/8"  bit to start and enlarged using a #1 step drill bit (unibit) when necessary.  As long as you don't force it, it works great!



For cutting Lexan, I try cutting it like drywall.  Hold a straight edge along your cut, score it a few times using a utility knife, and then gently fold it along the cut line.  A little filing may be necessary, but it works well and leaves a straight edge.



Regarding riveting, I did rivet the top window to the top longeron gusset, 7F3-3SP.  I think it was only one rivet drilled.  It leads to a nice transition from the top tube to the top fuselage skin.



BTW - the 'SP' stands for 'sport pilot'.  Before the 'SP' parts, the CH701 was limited to a Max t/o weight of 960 pounds.  With the addition of heavier and/or thicker parts in critical structural areas, ZAC increased the weight to 1100 pounds.



Dan Ginty

N787DG

90% complete

Expected completion date:  June 32nd

ronlee

Joined: 25 Dec 2006
Posts: 141

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:24 am Post subject: Re: Installing cabin top plastic

If I had it to do again I would not install the Lexan on the cabin top. If you ever have to replace it it is going to be a major job. Much easier to put on aluminum and a small window that could be replaced without removing the wings. Also, I fly in the desert an the solar gain is impressive, I had to install very dark film to the inside of my plane ceiling to block the heat and glare. One other things to consider is that it is very difficult if not impossible to seal the ceiling( Lexan) against water leakage. Everyone here with 701s has the problem. Thee ceiling will  leak while sitting out in the rain. I seems every thing in the cabin gets wet.

Ron Lee

_________________
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona

NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 10:15 am Post subject: Installing cabin top plastic

I like mine, I used a thin self stick weather strip 3/4" wide along the  entire perimeter under the Lexan and have no leaks. I like my Lexan top, great  visibility for seeing traffic and things above you. I don't think that it would  be hard at all to replace. No different than a piece of aluminum. Punch the  stems of the rivets, drill off the heads and pull off the Lexan. 

  

 Just my opinion.

  

 Bob Spudis

 N701ZX/912S/155hrs

  

  

  

  

  

 In a message dated 6/8/2008 11:24:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  rlee468(at)comcast.net writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  If I had    it to do again I would not install the Lexan on the cabin top. If you ever    have to replace it it is going to be a major job. Much easier to put on    aluminum and a small window that could be replaced without removing the wings.    Also, I fly in the desert an the solar gain is impressive, I had to install    very dark film to the inside of my plane ceiling to block the heat and glare.    One other things to consider is that it is very difficult if not impossible to    seal the ceiling( Lexan) against water leakage. Everyone here with 701s has    the problem. Thee ceiling will  leak while sitting out in the rain. I    seems every thing in the cabin gets wet.

Ron Lee



--------

Ron    Lee

	


 

  



Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.

  [quote][b]

ronlee

Joined: 25 Dec 2006
Posts: 141

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:37 am Post subject: Re: Installing cabin top plastic

You WILL need to take the wings off to replace the plastic on the roof. Lots of the top plastic is covered by the aluminum that blends the wing to the top. Install a window between these to pieces. Change it in an hour when need be. You can't see through aluminum anyway so any plastic under it is useless as a window and there is lots of it. I found it quite a chore to fit these pieces snug, nicely, to the plastic without great care of not scratching it. Believe me if I had it to do again it would be an aluminum top with a window installed between the slopes.

Ron Lee

_________________
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona

ruruny(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:34 am Post subject: Installing cabin top plastic

Craig,

 

 The plans are light. Not alot of info at all.

 Leave the protective cover on.

 I layed it on top of the fuse and traced out sides, I cut to the inside of this line for a perfect fit.

 I cut the rear for good rivet clearance and edge distances.

 The front edge will overlap the frame so you will have a decent edge distance for riveting.Do not drill 

 front untill you install windshield.

 I did all cuts on the workbench using a straight edge and scoring it a few times with a utility knife.

 I then folded down the cut for a clean break. If it doesn't fold fairly easy, score it again.

 Once cut, I started drilling in place. I taped it so it wouldn't move, marked a line and drilled

 using a fan as used in the pictures.

 

 If you search the archives in the old zenith list for ruruny, you will find lots of advice from other

 builders on this install, windshield etc.

 

 One question that was never answered and never in the plans was the rivets on the gusset, and the tube connections

 at the front of the frame. Whether to drill and rivet thru these. I just let the lexan lay on top of these rivets as I felt the

 lexan is not part of the structure(see pics again).

 

 http://www.701builder.com/00fuselagehome.htm

 

 The brace goes on the diagonal by drilling to diagonal first using a right angle drill. I trimed the bottom of the brace even with

 diagonal. Clecoed it on to diagonal, took covering off lexan, clecoed lexan down and drilled down thru lexan thru brace.

 

 Brian Unruh

 Long Island, NY

 

 

 

 ....Does anyone have any advice on, or photos of installing the top Lexan window

 

 

 

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  [quote][b]

Geoff Heap

Joined: 12 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Lindenwold, New Jersey

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:45 am Post subject: Re: Installing cabin top plastic

A tip for cutting the  lexan. Don't use a regular knife. Use an Olfa knife. I just cut mine and it cuts like butter compared to aluminun. It cuts through easily and then there is nothing to break off. Actually the paper is still holding it together.......Geoff

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