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Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

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mikefapex

Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 70
Location: Colorado

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 1:43 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

Hi AeroElectricteers,



I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum boxes.



Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3" , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the other half that mates together.  



I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, etc)  and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular gauge holes is most appreciated.



Thanks,

Mike

rshannon

Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Posts: 62

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:01 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

Mike,



A "unibit" or "step drill" does a nice job in a drill press. I used one for a dozen switch holes that came out very nice. Start by drilling a 1/8-3/32" pilot hole. Be sure to clamp the work so it doesn't wander. Use a relatively slow speed. The unibit makes a very clean cut.

 

Ron

On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:44 PM, mikef <mikefapex(at)gmail.com (mikefapex(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "mikef" <mikefapex(at)gmail.com (mikefapex(at)gmail.com)>

 

 Hi AeroElectricteers,

 

 I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum boxes.

  

 Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3" , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the other half that mates together.

  

 I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, etc)  and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular gauge holes is most appreciated.

  

 Thanks,

 Mike

 

 [b]

bobf(at)feldtman.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:02 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

a "punch" is better - they are on sale at Harbour freight



bobf



On 6/8/08, mikef <mikefapex(at)gmail.com (mikefapex(at)gmail.com)> wrote:[quote] --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "mikef" <mikefapex(at)gmail.com (mikefapex(at)gmail.com)>



 Hi AeroElectricteers,



 I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum boxes.

 

 Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3" , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the other half that mates together.

 

 I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, etc)  and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular gauge holes is most appreciated.

 

 Thanks,

 Mike





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186861#186861



  [quote][b]

rshannon

Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Posts: 62

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:09 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

A few other details may be worth mentioning. Once I had the pilot holes, I used a piece of 3/4" plywood under the metal. The unibit will cut a big hole in it too, of course. When doing subsequent holes, like up the plywood hole so that the sides of it don't "push" the work to one side, even when clamped. After drilling your pilot holes, bring the unibit in the press right down onto the pilot hole, make sure it's centered, and hold it there with a little pressure while you clamp. That will minimize the possibility of the clamps displacing the work a smidgen.

 

You can see a shot of the bulk of the switch holes I cut this way at http://n254mr.com/node/229. That panel is 8" high.



Ron

On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:57 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon(at)cruzcom.com (rshannon(at)cruzcom.com)> wrote:

 [quote]Mike,



A "unibit" or "step drill" does a nice job in a drill press. I used one for a dozen switch holes that came out very nice. Start by drilling a 1/8-3/32" pilot hole. Be sure to clamp the work so it doesn't wander. Use a relatively slow speed. The unibit makes a very clean cut.

  

Ron[b]

rshannon

Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Posts: 62

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:20 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:59 PM, Robert Feldtman <bobf(at)feldtman.com (bobf(at)feldtman.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   a "punch" is better - they are on sale at Harbour freight



bobf

	


A good punch is great if you can get one with a deep enough throat to reach the locations on your panel and if it will punch a 15/32" hole spec'd for the S700 series switches. The one I got from HF (#91510) has a 3-1/4" throat which wouldn't reach some of the holes in other parts of my layout and only goes up to a 7/16" hole.

 

Ron



  [quote][b]

nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:52 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

At 02:44 PM 6/8/2008 -0700, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  



Hi AeroElectricteers,



I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) 

and finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for 

recommendations about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my 

light aluminum boxes.



Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with 

rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the 

fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 

12"x3"x3" , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. 

I plan to mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches 

into the other half that mates together.



I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of 

drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No 

rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, 

etc)  and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular 

gauge holes is most appreciated.


	


   Getting nice round holes in sheet metal used to be

   a bit problematic. The standard twist drill tends to

   "rip" through the final cuts leaving a somewhat jagged

   and less than round hole in thin materials.



   Years ago, the tool of choice was a thing called a

   spot-facer. Intended for preparing the surface around

   a bolt hole, it also served as a very well behaved

   "mill" for shaving the surface around a pilot hole

   and if use long enough, produced a clean cut hole

   in thin materials. Here's a link for a 15/32" diameter

   cutter that's appropriate to mounting toggle switches.



http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/36261/nm/4_Flute_Aircraft_Counterbores_Spot_Facers



   There's no pilot shown, that's a separate item. In this

   case, the pilot can be replaced with a 1/8" drill bit

   (grind a flat on the drill for the setscrew to grip).

   This makes for a one-piece pilot drill/hole-cutter.



   Another option are a thing call step-drills. Harbor

   freight sells these . . .



http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/HF91616_Step_Drills.jpg



   Really handy in that a few "drills" will cut many

   sizes of hole. The single-flute cut is not prone

   to chatter.



   The down side of these critters is the need to pay

   attention. As you "thunk"through each step, make sure

   you don't thunk one or more times too many . . . it's

   REALLY hard to make those oversized holes get smaller.



   Sounds like you're working with a electronics project

   box. These tend to be bent of soft aluminum that is but

   one step above peanut butter for hardness. You may

   find that both the tools cited above leave less than

   a clean, square-edged hole. If you can drill from

   both sides, start on the back and go half-way through,

   then come around to the front to finish the hole.



   Finally, the super clean way to make both round and

   square holes is with a punch. See:



http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/Greenlee_Punches.JPG



   These are not available in as many sizes as drills

   but they do a better job on bigger holes than do drills

   and you can get square or rectangular punches too.



   However, they're not cheap. For a one-shot project,

   start your square holes with as large a round hole

   as practical and finish with a nibbler and/or files.



http://www.directron.com/nibbletool.html



   Some of the hog-out work that precedes fine

   filing to the finish can be aided by a Dremel tool

   with a router bit in it.



http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/Dremmel_300.jpg

http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/8th_Inch_Router.jpg



   This is not a job for one of those battery powered

   butter slicers you find in the hobby shops. Get

   a boss-hogg Dremmel 300 or equal.



   Finally, practice all these techniques on a piece

   of scrap. You'd be surprised how easy it is to coin

   new curse words when the next to the last hole you

   need to cut is suddenly too big.



   Bob . . .

mikefapex

Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 70
Location: Colorado

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:49 pm Post subject: Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

Gentlemen,



Thank you one and all for the tool suggestions and techniques. I've ordered a couple of these and will practice on some scrap pieces to see which give the best result.



Fly Safe,



Mike

mlas(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:42 am Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

Mike,



Another option is to use a water jet machine.  You can download Turbo

CAD and learn to do holes on it in about an hour or two.  Save to a DXF

file format and then bring the file and metal to your local water jet

guy and have it cut.  Cost of program for 30 days - free, cost for 10

switch holes in 2024 less then $20, cost of learning basic CAD -

priceless (you can use it more then once).



Mike



--

dale.r(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:54 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

Ron,



   Wrong kind of "punch".  Take a lot at the Harbor Freight # 91201 

punch set:



[ http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201 ]



One drills a center/pilot hole for the through-bolt, which pulls the two 

halves of the punch together through the panel.  No throat size to worry 

about.



Dale R.

COZY MkIV #0497

Ch. 13



Ron Shannon wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:59 PM, Robert Feldtman <bobf(at)feldtman.com 

 <mailto:bobf(at)feldtman.com>> wrote:



     a "punch" is better - they are on sale at Harbour freight



     bobf

 A good punch is great if you can get one with a deep enough throat to 

 reach the locations on your panel and if it will punch a 15/32" hole 

 spec'd for the S700 series switches. The one I got from HF (#91510) 

 has a 3-1/4" throat which wouldn't reach some of the holes in other 

 parts of my layout and only goes up to a 7/16" hole.



 Ron

rshannon

Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Posts: 62

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:56 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 3:51 PM, Dale Rogers <dale.r(at)cox.net (dale.r(at)cox.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dale Rogers <dale.r(at)cox.net (dale.r(at)cox.net)>

 

 Ron,

 

   Wrong kind of "punch".  Take a lot at the Harbor Freight # 91201 punch set:

 

 [ http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201 ]

 

 One drills a center/pilot hole for the through-bolt, which pulls the two halves of the punch together through the panel.  No throat size to worry about.

 

 Dale R.

 COZY MkIV #0497

 Ch. 13 	




Yes, of course, but... still no 15/32" for the S700's.



Ron





  [quote][b]

bobf(at)feldtman.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:06 am Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

wouldn't the 1/2 inch do? 15/32 is only slightly smaller, I bet it would work fine.



agree with dale's suggestion



bobf



On 6/10/08, Ron Shannon <rshannon(at)cruzcom.com (rshannon(at)cruzcom.com)> wrote:[quote] 



On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 3:51 PM, Dale Rogers <dale.r(at)cox.net (dale.r(at)cox.net)> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dale Rogers <dale.r(at)cox.net (dale.r(at)cox.net)>

 

 Ron,



   Wrong kind of "punch".  Take a lot at the Harbor Freight # 91201 punch set:



 [ http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201 ]

 

 One drills a center/pilot hole for the through-bolt, which pulls the two halves of the punch together through the panel.  No throat size to worry about.



 Dale R.

 COZY MkIV #0497

 Ch. 13 	
 



Yes, of course, but... still no 15/32" for the S700's.



Ron





 	  Quote: 	
		  http://www.matronics.com/Navigat="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http:/> http://www.matronics==================  	
 

[b]

rshannon

Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Posts: 62

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:42 am Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM, Robert Feldtman <bobf(at)feldtman.com (bobf(at)feldtman.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   wouldn't the 1/2 inch do? 15/32 is only slightly smaller, I bet it would work fine. 	
.... 

Actually, the S700 series switches are already a bit loose in the mfgr.'s recommended 15/32" hole. Consequently, I would prefer to follow the vendor's recommendation and not mount them even more loosely.



So to respond to your query, no, I don't think 1/2" holes are a good idea for these switches.

 

 Ron 

  [quote][b]

khorton01(at)rogers.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 4:40 pm Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

On 11 Jun 2008, at 14:38, Ron Shannon wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM, Robert Feldtman <bobf(at)feldtman.com (bobf(at)feldtman.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   wouldn't the 1/2 inch do? 15/32 is only slightly smaller, I bet it would work fine.  	
.... 

Actually, the S700 series switches are already a bit loose in the mfgr.'s recommended 15/32" hole. Consequently, I would prefer to follow the vendor's recommendation and not mount them even more loosely.



	




I used a Unibit step drill that had a 15/32 step.  It did an excellent job - the switches fit very well.



 --

Kevin Horton

RV-8 (FInal Assembly)

Ottawa, Canada

http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8



 



 [quote][b]

n801bh(at)NetZero.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:46 am Post subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?

I also used a unibit.. Worked perfect for me. 

do not archive

Ben Haas

N801BH

www.haaspowerair.com



-- Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> wrote:

  On 11 Jun 2008, at 14:38, Ron Shannon wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM, Robert Feldtman <bobf(at)feldtman.com (bobf(at)feldtman.com)> wrote:

   	  Quote: 	
		  wouldn't the 1/2 inch do? 15/32 is only slightly smaller, I bet it would work fine.  	
 .... 



 

Actually, the S700 series switches are already a bit loose in the mfgr.'s recommended 15/32" hole. Consequently, I would prefer to follow the vendor's recommendation and not mount them even more loosely.



	




 I used a Unibit step drill that had a 15/32 step.  It did an excellent job - the switches fit very well.



  --

 Kevin Horton

 RV-8 (FInal Assembly)

 Ottawa, Canada

 http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8

 

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