Matronics Email Lists :: View topic

Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists

Get Email Distribution Too! FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Register

Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in

door pins

Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV10-List

View previous topic :: View next topic

Author Message

flywrights(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 6:14 pm Post subject: door pins

I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams.  Each time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out of its happy place and leaves a gap.  Looks like the only solution is to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin in place.  

  

 I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final hole's location in the patch.

  

 Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't then emerge from the door without binding.

  

 Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.

  

 Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out until it works!"

  

 Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and make a huge hole that I don't need or want.

  

 Rob Wright

 #392

 Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...

         [quote][b]

seipel(at)seznam.cz
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:58 am Post subject: door pins

I had that problem originally.  Before you do anything drastic, 

lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go 

through the plastic blocks.  Also, make sure you haven't over bent 

them.  I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the 

rods, that they moved much more smoothly.



PJ Seipel

RV-10 #40032



Robert Wright wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm 

 trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams.  Each 

 time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out 

 of its happy place and leaves a gap.  Looks like the only solution is 

 to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide 

 straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin 

 in place. 

  

 I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final 

 hole's location in the patch.

  

 Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't 

 then emerge from the door without binding.

  

 Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.

  

 Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass 

 stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out 

 until it works!"

  

 Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and 

 make a huge hole that I don't need or want.

  

 Rob Wright

 #392

 Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...



 *

 *

capsteve

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 111
Location: NIAGARA FALLS NY

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:14 am Post subject: door pins

i've found that if i polish the rods with polish/rouge to a nice shine then

dab a bit of boelube on them they will slide verry smoothly. i'd avoid

anything that may attract dirt later. even a silicone dry lube would be

good.  on the extreme end i did have one plactic block that was way too

tight. i chucked the door rod in my cordless drill and ran the rod in the

block till it got warm, let everything cool, and it tested much better. of

coarse ymmv....

steven dinieri

iflyrv10.com



---

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:23 am Post subject: Re: door pins

I reamed my delrin blocks 1/64" oversize(reamer available from Grainger). That was enough clearance to account for the slight angle the door pins have relative to the blocks, but not so much as to have any slop when the door is locked shut.



Jim Berry

40482

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:57 am Post subject: door pins

FWIW, I just finished fitting the doors with the Rivethead pin and block set (similar perhaps to Steve DiNieri's).  Though I did a lot of 'heming and 'hawing trying to figure out how to best fit them, it ended up being very easy to get a great fit.  The bullet shaped rod end and the matching pin blocks really work nicely to 'rack' then lock the door in place.  See the Youtube video:

 http://youtube.com/watch?v=UMJ5ZLT8OTo

 

 I can't easily describe the installation procedure I used but it worked much more easily than I could have imagined.  And seemed a lot more straight forward than the Van's design.  Only tip I can easily give is that the nylon blocks on the doors need to fit as far back into their recesses on the door as possible.  That is, they need to more recessed than just flush with the edge of the recess - another 1/16 to 1/8" seemed critical.

 

 Robert Wright wrote: [quote]         I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams.  Each time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out of its happy place and leaves a gap.  Looks like the only solution is to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin in place.  

    

   I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final hole's location in the patch.

    

   Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't then emerge from the door without binding.

    

   Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.

    

   Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out until it works!"

    

   Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and make a huge hole that I don't need or want.

    

   Rob Wright

   #392

   Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...

   

   

    	  Quote: 	
		  



 href="3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 href="3D%22http://forums.matronics.com%22">http://forums.matronics.com

 href="3D%22http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	
 [b]

billderou(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:46 am Post subject: door pins

My door building memory dump (or revisiting bad dreams):



Life is good, the birds are singing and the lion sleeps with the lamb until you drill the hole through the aluminum frame. Quickly thereafter dark clouds begin to form.



I adjusted my door fit, using various techniques, before starting the rod assembly, after the latch mechanism was installed, and after the seal was installed. It would have been much better, mentally, for me to visualize this process as successive approximations rather than three final trims.



Make sure there is always a gap between the door and the return lip of the cabin fiberglass. I trimed this lip many times as I worked the door into place. Letting this lip push against the door at the upper part of the door will cause the door lower lip to move up. If you trim the bottom of the door with the lip interfering near the top - well ...



To fine tune my door fit I purchased a block of nylon and machined (chop saw and drill press and dremel grinder) the guides on the door, not the cabin frame. This kept the aluminum hole intact. Keep the screw holes in the same location and move the rod hole around.



Make the bends near the middle of the rod and "aim" the rod through the hole to minimize drag. Using sandpaper you can lightly smooth up the last 3" of the rod and it will slip through the hole easier. Light weight grease helps greatly.



If you need to repurchase the rods buy 2024-T3 raw stock with thick walls. A die grinder with a thin abrasive wheel easily cuts the end slot and you can decrease the pointy end angle to increase metal through the  aluminum frame.



The pointy side of the rod is inboard to catch the hole with the tip and pull the door  inward. The sharp edges of the rod end function more like a sword than a velvet finger and chop up the receiving plastic. Sand (or fair) down these outer edges to help the rod slide and not stab.



Rod length adjustment starts with making sure the door handle swings 110 degrees or greater. Fully retract the rods. The rod end tip should be exactly flush with the door frame. If its pulled further into the door then the rod end may not pass through the aluminum frame when closed. The greater the circumference of the rod end passing through the aluminum frame the stronger the door. If the rod point is outside the door frame with the door handle fully open then it will decimate the cabin jam.



The last check is to assess how much of the rod circumference passes through the aluminum hole with the door closed.  If this measurement is small, say .125" , then only the plastic guide is holding the door and the door is likely to open in flight as the outer edge of the guide weakens when the rod pointy end chops it up. Adding aluminum to this joint is a very good case for purchasing the aluminum guides. 



 No passengers move the  handle to close  the door - only you. The passengers that abused this and made unsightly gashes in my outer skin were other pilots that already "knew" everything.

 

Good Luck,

Bill DeRouchey

N939SB, flying

 



--- On Sat, 6/14/08, PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> wrote:

[quote]From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>

Subject: Re: door pins

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Saturday, June 14, 2008, 5:54 AM



[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>



I had that problem originally.  Before you do anything drastic, 

lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go 

through the plastic blocks.  Also, make sure you haven't over bent 

them.  I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the 

rods, that they moved much more smoothly.



PJ Seipel

RV-10 #40032



Robert Wright wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and  now

I'm 
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   trying to fit them in the

 7/16" holes drill in the door jams.  Each 
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out 

 of its happy place and leaves a gap.  Looks like the only solution is 

 to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide 

 straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin 

 in place. 

  

 I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final 

 hole's location in the patch.

  

 Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't


	


[quote] then emerge from the door without binding.

  

 Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.

  

 Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass 

 stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out 

 until it [quote][b]

AirMike

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:52 pm Post subject: door pins

Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty slick when it is finished.

_________________
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:59 am Post subject: door pins

AirMike wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty slick when it is finished.

   

I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.  
	


There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite 

well.  A few tips based on my experience:

- install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses as 

possible.  Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape it so 

it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.

- Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily 

penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)

- use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just 

dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating 

the latch.  Do one block at a time

- fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it.  Screw them into 

the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a 

mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.

- With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in 

the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position 

you want, tighten the bolt.  Them unlatch the door, move it out of the 

way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.



That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.  Very 

nice pins and blocks.

drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 5:27 am Post subject: door pins

MauleDriver:

Did you have your seal on the door?  

Dr Fred

40515. 

MauleDriver wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 AirMike wrote:

> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that 

> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so 

> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The 

> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty 

> slick when it is finished.

>   

 I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.  

 There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite 

 well.  A few tips based on my experience:

 - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses 

 as possible.  Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape 

 it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.

 - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily 

 penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)

 - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just 

 dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating 

 the latch.  Do one block at a time

 - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it.  Screw them into 

 the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a 

 mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.

 - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in 

 the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position 

 you want, tighten the bolt.  Them unlatch the door, move it out of the 

 way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.

 That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.  

 Very nice pins and blocks.

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:22 am Post subject: door pins

Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   MauleDriver:



 Did you have your seal on the door? 

 Dr Fred

 40515.

Nope.
	


 	  Quote: 	
		  > <snippety snip>

> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway. 

>

Bill Watson
	


40605

roadmaps

Joined: 08 Nov 2007
Posts: 49

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:11 pm Post subject: door pins

Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's design, I

would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins going

completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed in a

way that allows the pins to go all the way in?

John Testement

jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com

40321

Richmond, VA

Painting and final assembly

do not archive

MauleDriver wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 AirMike wrote:

> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that 

> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so 

> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The 

> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty 

> slick when it is finished.

>   

 I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.  

 There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite 

 well.  A few tips based on my experience:

 - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses 

 as possible.  Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape 

 it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.

 - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily 

 penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)

 - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just 

 dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating 

 the latch.  Do one block at a time

 - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it.  Screw them into 

 the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a 

 mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.

 - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in 

 the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position 

 you want, tighten the bolt.  Them unlatch the door, move it out of the 

 way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.

 That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.  

 Very nice pins and blocks.

Checked by AVG. 

7:20 AM

bcondrey

Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 580

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:19 pm Post subject: door pins

Not sure why folks think the Rivethead and IFLYRV10 pins/guides don't go

all the way through.  The pins stick out the back side of the frame just

like the stock aluminum rods. 



Bob

N442PM (flying)



--

rene(at)felker.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:39 pm Post subject: door pins

If you follow the directions for the rivethead pins....or was it a

video.....the pins and blocks were designed to NOT go past the door frame so

that you would not damage the skin if the door was closed with the pins

extended.  They only hit the block.  I installed mime that way and thus my

pins do not go through the frame.  



I see no reason why you could not make the rods longer and have them go

through the frame.  They would still work the same way, but if the pins were

extended and you attempt to close the door you would hit the skin of the

airplane.



Rene' Felker

RV-10 N423CF Flying

801-721-6080

--

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:42 pm Post subject: door pins

Yes they can.  The disadvantage of doing so is that the door remains subject to banging up the skin.  That is, the door could be slammed shut with the pins extended.  I still have the option but haven't drilled the holes yet.  I"m thinking I'll work ahead  for a bit and see what the door seal deal is.

 

 So, the question with the rivet head pins seems to be, is the shear strength of 2 AN3 bolts enough?  And is the block itself strong enough to serve as the sole restraint of the pins?  Or is it better to risk a few dings and use belts and suspenders?

 

 John Testement wrote: [quote]    	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)



Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's design, I

would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins going

completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed in a

way that allows the pins to go all the way in?



John Testement

jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)

40321

Richmond, VA

Painting and final assembly

do not archive



MauleDriver wrote:

        	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> (MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com)



AirMike wrote:

            	  Quote: 	
		  Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that 

I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so 

inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The 

Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty 

slick when it is finished.

  

      	
     I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.  

There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite 

well.  A few tips based on my experience:

- install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses 

as possible.  Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape 

it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.

- Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily 

penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)

- use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just 

dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating 

the latch.  Do one block at a time

- fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it.  Screw them into 

the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a 

mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.

- With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in 

the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position 

you want, tighten the bolt.  Them unlatch the door, move it out of the 

way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.



That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.  

Very nice pins and blocks.



    	
   

Checked by AVG. 

7:20 AM

 



  	
 [b]

bcondrey

Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 580

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:49 pm Post subject: door pins

I understand now!  Interestingly I didn't get any instructions or video,

just a set of wrapped up parts.



BTW, I have looked at the IFLYRV10.com version of the guides and like

them better (no affiliation with either).  Big difference in design is

that Steve's (IFLYRV10.com) have holes all the way through for mounting

to make it easier.  Other difference is that Steve ships them out within

a day of the order using USPS Priority Mail:)



Bob



--

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:13 pm Post subject: door pins

I don't think anyone got any directions.  The Youtube video cleared up a few things and is a great sales pitch.

 

 I thought I'd prefer Steve's too... but after doing it I found that the blind drilling was actually quite simple.

 

 I have Steve's billet handles which are going in fine so far.  I am missing the nylon guides (anyone else get them).  I'm beginning to think that I don't need them but don't know.  Steve?  Anyone with installation experience?

 

 Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: [quote]   [quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> (bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com)  I understand now!  Interestingly I didn't get any instructions or video, just a set of wrapped up parts.  BTW, I have looked at the IFLYRV10.com version of the guides and like them better (no affiliation with either).  Big difference in design is that Steve's (IFLYRV10.com) have holes all the way through for mounting to make it easier.  Other difference is that Steve ships them out within a day of the order using USPS Priority Mail:)  Bob  --

robin1(at)mrmoisture.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:29 pm Post subject: door pins

As part of our build we plan to imbed a polished metal strike plate on the exterior where the rods WILL hit when the door is closed with the lock engaged. I will not be painting this plate and view the polished metal as a feature. Sure beats seeing those chips on a brand new paint job.   

My Tip Up 6A has two and basically only two blemishes on the entire plane. Both are where the rear band of the tip up could potentially slide under the metal body trim. I know how to open & close the canopy but A&P’s and others don’t and WHAMO… a scar on each side that I see each and every time I get in the plane. Bummer.   

   

On another note I just had a close up look at the “Cessna” 400. Cessna had a demo day at my airport so I strolled around the bird for some time. I have seen them before and always admired the Columbia but I really got to poke around to observe it in detail. That plane is an absolutely a work of art. Expensive art at $640K a copy but definitely art. Don’t get me wrong I love the -10 and think it’s the best plane for me and my mission (and wallet) but the Columbia exquisite.  

   

Robin  

Getting closer all the time. Will just miss flying to OSH but I will be there for a couple of days sans the 10.  

SJ Plenum in place. SJ Cowl almost on. Sure wish there was an after marked air box for the Cold Air Induction engine.  

   

Do Not Archive  

      [quote][b]

partner14

Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 540
Location: Granbury Texas

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 11:44 pm Post subject: door pins

Robin, I will also be going to Osh.... without my 10 too.  So close....   will be there from Wednesday on.  Hopefully we'll find each other.  Fiberglass plenum done, scoop for cold air done, (used an F1 Rocket and modified it extensively) wings on and torqued, aelerons set, flaps set, elevators set, trim working from stick, most of the panel finished, and trying to get the fiberglass ready for paint.  Thanks again for the ducting for the oil cooler, works great. 

Don McDonald 

#40636 

Still finishing



--- On Tue, 6/17/08, Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>

Subject: RE: Re: door pins

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Tuesday, June 17, 2008, 10:26 PM



       

As part of our build we plan to imbed a polished metal strike plate on the exterior where the rods WILL hit when the door is closed with the lock engaged. I will not be painting this plate and view the polished metal as a feature. Sure beats seeing those chips on a brand new paint job.  

My Tip Up 6A has two and basically only two blemishes on the entire plane. Both are where the rear band of the tip up could potentially slide under the metal body trim. I know how to open & close the canopy but A&P’s and others don’t and WHAMO… a scar on each side that I see each and every time I get in the plane. Bummer.  

  

On another note I just had a close up look at the “Cessna” 400. Cessna had a demo day at my airport so I strolled around the bird for some time. I have seen them before and always admired the Columbia but I really got to poke around to observe it in detail. That plane is an absolutely a work of art. Expensive art at $640K a copy but definitely art. Don’t get me wrong I love the -10 and think it’s the best plane for me and my mission (and wallet) but the Columbia exquisite. 

  

Robin 

Getting closer all the time. Will just miss flying to OSH but I will be there for a couple of days sans the 10. 

SJ Plenum in place. SJ Cowl almost on. Sure wish there was an after marked air box for the Cold Air Induction engine. 

  

Do Not Archive

 	  Quote: 	
		  



get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com

blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	


	


           [quote][b]

_________________
Don A. McDonald
40636

wayne.e(at)grandecom.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:44 am Post subject: door pins

John,

  

 Mine go all the way the door frame and I didn't do  anything special when I installed them. The only difficulty I ran into when  installing them was getting the door open magnet sensor out of the push rod,  since it was glued in. 

  

 Wayne N602WT

  

  

  

             Time:      01:11:52 PM PST  US            From:      "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)>            Subject:      Re: door    pins       

      

      Although  the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's design,  I

      would still be very worried about a design  that did not have the pins going

      completely  through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed in  a

      way that allows the pins to go all the way  in?

      

      John  Testement

      jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com (jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com)

       40321

      Richmond,  VA

      Painting and final  assembly

      do not archive



  

   [quote][b]

capsteve

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 111
Location: NIAGARA FALLS NY

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:02 am Post subject: door pins

Bill,

     the plastic guide blocks are primarily used to  help keep the long door rod from flexing from any angular force applied from the  billet handles. although not required it certainly helps remove any "spongy"  feeling when operating the handle.

 sorry you were shorted, i'll send a set out today. it seems  the DiNieri munchkins lost count.     Can i use my kids as  an excuse...yeah, why not...

 steve dinieri

 iflyrv10.com



 [quote]         From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com    [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of    MauleDriver

Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:10 PM

To:    rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Re: door    pins

   

I don't think anyone got any directions.  The Youtube video    cleared up a few things and is a great sales pitch.



I thought I'd    prefer Steve's too... but after doing it I found that the blind drilling was    actually quite simple.



I have Steve's billet handles which are going in    fine so far.  I am missing the nylon guides (anyone else get them).     I'm beginning to think that I don't need them but don't know.     Steve?  Anyone with installation experience?



Condrey, Bob (US SSA)    wrote:    [quote][quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> (bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com)  I understand now!  Interestingly I didn't get any instructions or video, just a set of wrapped up parts.  BTW, I have looked at the IFLYRV10.com version of the guides and like them better (no affiliation with either).  Big difference in design is that Steve's (IFLYRV10.com) have holes all the way through for mounting to make it easier.  Other difference is that Steve ships them out within a day of the order using USPS Priority Mail:)  Bob  --

Display posts from previous:

	Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV10-List	All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

Jump to:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum