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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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 Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:26 pm Post subject: Ouch |
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Sorry to hear of your problem. I have a couple plexiglass scrapers from
the last time I worked on my Mooney fuel tanks. Be glad to assist if you
want. There is a Mooney shop that sells a solvent for PRC sealant that
can make that part of the work easier. I can get you contact info. A
more aggressive method is to use a stainless steel wire brush cup in an
air drill...but I don't like what that does to the tank skins.
My annual on my Mooney is turning into a lot more work than I
anticipated when I started it. Just typical stuff that shows up when
parts get old, but takes time and $$.
Kelly
Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
| Quote: | Had one of the worst screw ups in my building career tonight......and
of course the fact that was 103 and humid didn't soothe my termperment
either. While match drilling the bottom skins on my wings, one of the
spar ends fell and damaged the forward nose rib and skin pretty bad.
The number one reason I bought QB wings was to avoid building those
fuel tanks, and now it looks like I have to drill one apart and reskin
it. Any shortcuts?..........(he asks, knowing there is likely only
alot of elbow grease to look forward to)
Mike Lefever
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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD |
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EFDsteve(at)AOL.COM
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| Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:21 pm Post subject: Ouch |
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This problem happened to me as well. The fix wasn't too bad.
The end of the fuel tank was bent in, and the end bulkhead was deformed to the point that there was a gap between it and the skin. So I ordered a new T-1003C from Van's, and I drilled out all of the rivets from the old, deformed T-1003C. I then drilled a large hole in the center of it and began removing it with a small vice grip pliers. The old bulkhead basically broke into small pieces when I did this, but it eventually did all come out. I removed the old pro-seal from the skin and the T-1005 bracket with a plastic scraper and a serrated plastic knife and cleaned the surfaces with MEK.
When I received the new part, I traced it out on a piece of 2x4 and cut out a piece of wood of the same shape. I inserted the wood into the fuel tank and used it as a backer as I gently tapped the skin back into shape with a hammer. I then removed the wood, applied a generous amount of pro-seal, and riveted the new T-1003C in place.
Good luck. I thought at the time that I probably wasn't the only one that would have this problem. Needed to clamp the wing spar to the wing cradle better.
Steve Weinstock
40230 Fuse
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