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dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz Guest
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Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 9:59 pm Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Ok guys call me ignorant but I have not yet installed my finished tanks (for
the last time) and filled them with fuel. My access covers came from Van's
with CORK gaskets! Someone on this list mentioned using fuel tank nutplates
with built in O-rings when building their tanks to eliminate the need for
pro-seal on the screw heads. I can't do that because I didn't know about
them when building my tanks BUT, I can use special access cover screws with
O-rings built into the heads to achieve the same goal.
Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws with
the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST OF YOU ARE GOING
THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS COVERS????
By using the pro-seal you have created an obvious DETRIMENT to easy access
and I'm sure that's part of the reason some of you are groaning so loudly.
I know, I know, it'll never leak with the pro-seal but this the SECOND
bulletin in 5 years concerning something INSIDE the tanks (the first being
the anti-rotation bracket). Obviously one cannot count on NEVER having to
take the access cover off so let's find a less painful method than the
pro-seal!!! There has to be a better way!! As I said, I'm ignorant about
how good this will work because I have not experienced it. Those of you who
have used the cork (or synthetic rubber) with gasket seal know the
answer...educate me. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Autocad and Tefzel
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Rick Galati
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 91 Location: Lake St. Louis MO.
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 5:01 am Post subject: Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Dean,
My early 2000 vintage RV-6A slowbuild kit came equipped with cork gaskets for the fuel tanks. I really didn't know about the O-ring deal at the time. I just installed the access covers and cork gaskets with the kit supplied hardware per an Orndorff construction video suggesting the use of medium weight Titeseal as an alternative to proseal. Post-construction pressure tests with a toy balloon indicated no leaks and has to date proven to be troublefree in service. Because of this unexpected development, I went ahead and ordered fresh gaskets to comply with the SB. I should note I recently asked Van's what THEY use on their fleet. I learned that they too use proseal to seal the tank covers. Personally, I intend to go the Titeseal route again. Sold in a 1 pound can, I've got plenty left over, that's for sure.
http://tinyurl.com/nxvz8
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 112 hours
dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz wrote: | ................. My access covers came from Van's with CORK gaskets! ............. use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant) along with some appropriate gasket sealer.....................ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS COVERS????
By using the pro-seal you have created an obvious DETRIMENT to easy access and I'm sure that's part of the reason some of you are groaning so loudly. I know, I know, it'll never leak with the pro-seal but this the SECOND bulletin in 5 years concerning something INSIDE the tanks (the first being the anti-rotation bracket). Obviously one cannot count on NEVER having to take the access cover off so let's find a less painful method than the pro-seal!!! There has to be a better way!! As I said, I'm ignorant about how good this will work because I have not experienced it. Those of you who have used the cork (or synthetic rubber) with gasket seal know the answer...educate me. Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DMAutocad and Tefzel |
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ebbfmm(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 5:04 am Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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I've been watching with interest the comments on the difficulty in removing
tank access covers that had been pro-sealed. When I built my RV6 (completed
9/2002)I used the cork rubber gasket material from NAPA and a product called
Fuel Lube (commonly called peanut butter by A&P's)on both sides of the
gasket and have not seen any leaks in the three plus years since I've been
flying. I have also used it to seal fittings in oil and fuel lines. I have
not removed my tank access covers yet, but based my experience with other
applications I anticipate no problems or destruction of the access covers.
I'll update this E-Mail once I remove the access plates and let you all know
how it turns out.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
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Larry Mersek
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 14 Location: Mountain Ranch, CA. (KCPU)
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:04 am Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Is fuel lube still available and if so, where can you purchase it? Does it
harden like pro-seal or does it remain soft as does the tight seal?
Larry Mersek
N336RV
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_________________ Larry Mersek
Mountain Ranch, CA.
N336RV (KCPU) |
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Bill Schlatterer
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 195
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 2:06 pm Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Aircraft Spruce and goes by Seal Lube. Pliable so far after about 8 months.
Bill S
7a wiring
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rv6n6r(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 2:41 pm Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
Quote: | Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
COVERS????
|
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...?
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal. A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way, but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
COVERS????
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...?
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal. A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way, but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
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chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.c Guest
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:15 pm Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Randall,
I too used Proseal because I've personally seen leaks from cork & fuel-lube. I have had to remove my inspection/access plates from my fuel tanks. And I KNOW it was one helluva' BIG DEAL ! (obviously .... YMMV).
I bent the plates, and made new ones, and then Prosealed 'em back on when I was done; but only because I didn'y know a better way. Now that I've heard of the correct type of RTV, I will try that if there's a next time. * I sure hope when/if I open her up again I have the luck you had, 'cuz the last time was absolute sheer misery.
Chuck
rv6n6r(at)comcast.net wrote:
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
Quote: | Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
COVERS????
|
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...?
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal. A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way, but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
COVERS????
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...?
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal. A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way, but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
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rv6n6r(at)comcast.net Guest
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ptrotter
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 28 Location: Westchester County, NY
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 6:56 pm Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Dean,
The problem with the cork gasket comes in a couple of places. Many times
leaks can occur through the threads in the screws and out under the heads.
Also, many people over tighten the screws which deforms the panel enough to
cause a leak between the screws. Screws should be tightened down evenly
with enough torque to hold the plate firmly against the cork gasket without
deforming it.
On my tank, I used self-sealing nutplates which prevent any fuel from
entering the screw threads. I also went overboard and used screws with
o-rings under the head. I used this with the cork gasket. I have not
filled my tanks yet, but they hold air pressure just fine. If I were to do
it again, I probably would have used an access panel sealant and skipped the
gasket. If you go with o-ring screws, make sure they have viton o-rings as
the normal o-ring is not resistant to fuel and will deteriorate.
The biggest complaint I have with the SB is that it will make it very
difficult to replace the flop tube if necessary without going through the
entire process again.
Paul
---
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_________________ Paul Trotter
RV-8 82080 Fuselage Kit
N801PT (reserved) |
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dcw(at)mnwing.org Guest
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:33 pm Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Fellow Listers:
Seems like the access tank sealing issue is getting rather complex. Here is
my proven solution (no leaks after 10 years in my previous RV-4).:
1. Use the cork gasket.
2. Apply Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket to both sides of the cork gasket.
3. Use capscrews and washers to attach cover.
4. Do not over tighten.
5. Apply small fillet of Pro Seal around the edges of screws.
6. Done - no leaks
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4
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Vanremog(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 9:43 pm Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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In a message dated 3/3/2006 7:33:48 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dcw(at)mnwing.org writes:
Seems like the access tank sealing issue is getting rather complex. Here is
my proven solution (no leaks after 10 years in my previous RV-4).:
1. Use the cork gasket.
2. Apply Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket to both sides of the cork gasket.
3. Use capscrews and washers to attach cover.
4. Do not over tighten.
5. Apply small fillet of Pro Seal around the edges of screws.
6. Done - no leaks
=====================================
This is essentially what I did, only I used O-ring equipped screws (from
McMaster) for the cover fasteners (hence no need for washers and Proseal) and 8
yrs later have had no leaks.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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dfischer(at)iserv.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 8:52 am Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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When installing the sender (Warner float-type), has everybody used the
rubber gasket? I pro-sealed mine (no leaks) but If I need to remove the
sender to remove the access plate I am wondering if to just use the rubber
gaskets or pro-seal 'em again. Thanks for any feedback.
Doug Fischer
RV-9A Jenison, MI
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chaztuna(at)adelphia.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 6:50 am Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Paul & Listers,
I may be wrong here, but it seems to me that most folks seem to think that the problem is with the cork gaskets. It is not! The cork gaskets will seal. The PROBLEM is with Vans use of standard nutplates, in a location where NAS 1473 fuel tank nutplates are called for. The leak occurs because the fuel is able to work it's way between the threads of the nutplates and the threads of the cover screws. The fuel then leaks out from under the heads of the screws. This is not a fault with the gaskets. Personally, I've found that you can re-use the cork gaskets several times, providing they are not torn or damaged.
Cork gaskets have been used to seal the fuel tank sending units on automobiles for decades. I've removed the fuel tanks on 20 year old cars where the original cork gasket was still doing it's job.
As Paul & others have pointed out, an alternative (and cheaper) solution is to use #8 self sealing screws (with Viton O-rings) in lieu of the NAS 1473 nutplates (which all certified aircraft use). Make life easy on yourself. Forget the ProSeal and use the cork gaskets with the self sealing access cover screws.
Charlie Kuss
---- Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> wrote:
[quote]
Dean,
The problem with the cork gasket comes in a couple of places. Many times
leaks can occur through the threads in the screws and out under the heads.
Also, many people over tighten the screws which deforms the panel enough to
cause a leak between the screws. Screws should be tightened down evenly
with enough torque to hold the plate firmly against the cork gasket without
deforming it.
On my tank, I used self-sealing nutplates which prevent any fuel from
entering the screw threads. I also went overboard and used screws with
o-rings under the head. I used this with the cork gasket. I have not
filled my tanks yet, but they hold air pressure just fine. If I were to do
it again, I probably would have used an access panel sealant and skipped the
gasket. If you go with o-ring screws, make sure they have viton o-rings as
the normal o-ring is not resistant to fuel and will deteriorate.
The biggest complaint I have with the SB is that it will make it very
difficult to replace the flop tube if necessary without going through the
entire process again.
Paul
---
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rv8ch
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 250 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 8:46 am Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Quote: | ... Make life easy on yourself. Forget the ProSeal and use
the cork gaskets with the self sealing access cover screws.
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Do you know if these are available in either torx or allen head?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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_________________ Mickey Coggins
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chaztuna(at)adelphia.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 10:51 am Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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Mickey,
I don't know. One of my RV gurus pointed out that certified aircraft all use the NAS1473 sealed nutplates (available from Wicks) in the fuel tanks. Therefore I purchased and installed these. I realize that doesn't help those of you that have completed tanks.
Recently, local RV-9A builder Peter Laurence found a source for SS self sealing screws which come WITH the needed Viton O-rings (McMaster-Carr sells theirs with Silicone O-rings. You have to buy the Viton units as an additional purchase). He bailed on the RV List last year. Below is the content of a post he recently sent me. Perhaps you can contact the vendor and ask if they are available with Torx heads?
Charlie Kuss
POST RECEIVED FROM PETER L
Charlie,
Here is the info for Robin.
Part # 8-32 UNC-2A
$.65 in SS. Minimum of 50
Peerless Electronics Inc.
9600 West Sample Road
Ste 506
Coral Springs, Fl 33065
(800)327-4993
Ask for Mike.
---- Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> wrote:
Quote: |
> ... Make life easy on yourself. Forget the ProSeal and use
> the cork gaskets with the self sealing access cover screws.
Do you know if these are available in either torx or allen head?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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ptrotter
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 28 Location: Westchester County, NY
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Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 11:55 am Post subject: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
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At Charlie's suggestion, I used the NAS1473 sealed nutplates and used o-ring
screws as well just for kicks. I got the screws from McMaster but had a
very hard time getting the right viton o-rings. The o-rings on screws were
a non-standard size and I could not match them perfectly. I ended up using
a metric sized o-rings as the closest fit. When I do the SB, I will
probably replace the o-ring screws with torx head screws since I don't
really need the o-rings. If I had not used the self-sealing nutplates, I
would skip the cork gasket and use access panel sealant on the plate.
Access panel sealant is designed for this purpose. It seals like fuel tank
sealant, but is not as adhesive and can be remove easier.
Paul
---
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_________________ Paul Trotter
RV-8 82080 Fuselage Kit
N801PT (reserved) |
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