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Rotax 912 UL

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Dick Maddux

Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 516
Location: Milton, Fl

Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 3:44 am Post subject: Rotax 912 UL

Roger, Thanks for the great tip! I was hoping you would reply. I will get that tester.

 Kyle, I had the same problem when I reduced my throttle thru about 3-3500 rpm during descent or on approach. The engine would stumble.The problem turned out to be that the throttle cables were sticking a small amount at one spot. One carb would be slightly out of sync until it caught up with the other. Changing the cables did the trick (perhaps lube on yours?) My cables were old and in bad shape. 

  I wish I could take credit for the solution but I called Lockwood and the tech had the answer.

                                           Dick Maddux

                                           Kitfox 4-1200

                                           Rotax 912UL

                                           Pensacola,Fl   



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Kyle

Joined: 13 Jun 2008
Posts: 15
Location: Western Kentucky

Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:44 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 912 UL

Dick,

Thanks for the tip. I have a very small kink in one of my throttle cables. This could very well cause the carbs to get out of synch. when I throttle down. Actually I think the wrong cables have been installed. They are the 1/16th. inch multi stranded cables. Very flexible. I think they need to be the 1/16th. inch 7 strand cables which would stiffen them up a lot and result in a more positive throttle input.

If you find a outlet for the AC probe let me know. The $12.00 investment will pay back big dividends in time savings.

Thanks,

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_________________
Kyle Dunn
Eddyville, Kentucky
Kitfox IV 1200 912 Rotax
1978 Cessna 172 N
American Aero Phoenix II w/582 Rotax
Rotorway Exec.

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 10:41 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 912 UL

Hi Guys,



You should be able to get the AC tester at any electronic shop and maybe a Lowe's or Home Depot.



Depending on the type of throttle setup you have you should normally use .064 or 1.5mm 1x19 cable. The 7 strand is stiffer than the more flexible 19 strand. The 1x19 strand will conform around pulleys and angles much better. If you are using a 912 engine you should have the carb springs set to go wide open in case of a cable or throttle failure. You should also be using the plastic lined throttle cable housing. This helps the cable from hanging up on the cable housing and keeps the rust problem the the cable housing can get away from your actual throttle cable. It makes for a smoother throttle movement. You may be hanging up on the throttle smoothness from a cable that is too big and/or stiff.

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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

kcflys

Joined: 28 Aug 2007
Posts: 33
Location: Rancho Cordova, CA

Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:06 am Post subject: Rotax 912 UL

Roger,



What is your recommended supplier for the throttle cable.  I am considering 

replacing mine.



Keith C.

Mod IV 912 IVO

Mather (MHR) CA

---

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Keith C.
kitfox wannabe
C-150
Rancho Cordova CA

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:27 pm Post subject: Re: Rotax 912 UL

Hi Keith,



The 1x19 cable is pretty common. You can get it from California Power Systems or Aircraft Spruce. This cable and plastic lined cable housing are good combinations for a throttle. Light flexible cable makes a nice smooth throttle setup. You need to make sure your carbs are setup with the carb spring to pull the throttle wide open.

There are a few planes that need stiff cable to push the throttle open and pull it closed then the stiffer heavier cable would be better in that circumstance.

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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

jack.kuehn(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 2:45 pm Post subject: Rotax 912 UL

One thing to add on the throttle cable story:  Once a year I pull the cable out of the housing and spray it with silicone lubricant, and clean it with a clean cloth.  This stuff dries non-sticky and does not hold dirt.  It keeps everything nice and slick!  It is compatible with plastics and with the cable itself.   I don't see any downside to this practice, but I would be glad to hear if someone sees a problem with it!  As an aside, I spray my CV joint boots on my car with this stuff when I change oil, and the boots are still good 8 years later.  

 

Jack



On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>

 

 Hi Keith,

 

 The 1x19 cable is pretty common. You can get it from California Power Systems or Aircraft Spruce. This cable and plastic lined cable housing are good combinations for a throttle. Light flexible cable makes a nice smooth throttle setup. You need to make sure your carbs are setup with the carb spring to pull the throttle wide open.

  There are a few planes that need stiff cable to push the throttle open and pull it closed then the stiffer heavier cable would be better in that circumstance.

 

 --------

 Roger Lee

 Tucson, Az.

 Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated

 Rotax Service Center

 520-574-1080

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196070#196070

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dick Maddux

Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 516
Location: Milton, Fl

Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:03 am Post subject: Rotax 912 UL

I changed out my "P" leads on my 912UL and that seems to have solved the problem with the roughness and bad drop on one mag.The prior "p" lead wiring had both wires (unshielded) running in a blue shielded coax type cable which was grounded on one end only. The manual calls for each "P" lead wire to be shielded and grounded on both ends (which is what I installed) This plane has been running since 2002 with the old set up (I bought the plane) and the problem has just now developed? I couldn't find any breaks that were grounding the wires but then again you can't see or feel inside the cable and the ohm meter check was fine.

  The only other problem I have is now my tach needle sharply spikes upward then back down periodically during the engine run.It was steady as a rock prior to my removal of the starter switch and replacing the "P" leads. The tach gets its' power from the starter switch (the type with L,R,Start) so maybe I have a bad connection there or at the plug connecting to the tach trigger coil. Anyone ever have this problem?

   I am thinking about installing Velcro as fasteners for my cowl. I have had the cowling off so many times to work on this engine that my dzus fasteners are about worn out. I am glad that I am retired and have a hanger to work on the airplane otherwise, I would have to put it on static display in a museum. It is mainly the engine that requires the work. I only have 175 hrs tt on the engine. The airframe has been great. I envy you guys that work very little on your planes and I don't know how you do it. I guess the secret is to buy it new.

   In reality though,I have been doing a lot of improvements to it as it is a mid 90's engine and needed it.(new hoses, proper oil line fittings,carb cables,carb sync,etc.) Sure does run smooth though.However I don't think I will fly it to my cabin in North Carolina as I did my Piper Pacer. I still don't trust the engine as I did my Lyc or Cont on my other aircraft. Again, thanks for all your replies!

                                                   Dick Maddux

                                                   Kitfox 4-1200

                                                   Rotax 912UL

                                                   Pensacola,Fl  

  



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  [quote][b]

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Dick Maddux

Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 516
Location: Milton, Fl

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 4:08 am Post subject: Rotax 912 UL

Rocky and Roger,

    Thanks for your replies. I have replaced the P leads and that seems to have solved the problem with one "mag' running rougher than the other. I pulled the old leads and still can't find any problem with them. Oh well, the new ones are working.

    As too the dieseling I have switched to premium auto fuel for these hot summer months and so far it hasn't happened again. Roger,I thought the timing was fixed on the 912.

    I also removed the Rotax tach and installed the new UMA tach and my "spiking" problem with the Rotax gage stopped. The new tach also has a wire that powers the Hobbs so that it runs only with the engine turning which is a nice feature. (also has internal painted range marks)

                                             Dick Maddux

                                             Kitfox 4-1200

                                             Rotax 912UL

                                             Pensacola,Fl



Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos.

  [quote][b]

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Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: Rotax 912 UL

Hi Dick,



You are right on about too low a grade of fuel and or hot cylinders can cause some dieseling.

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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

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