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kearney(at)shaw.ca
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 Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 6:52 pm Post subject: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends |
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Hi All
After returning from KOSH and seeing what great RV10s are out there, I was energized to start building again.To that end, I decided to see if I could turn my newly received rod end replacement parts into something usable.
Having some "spare" parts, I did a little riveting experimentation before trying the real things. Pix P1010016.JPG shows what happens when you try to put a AN470AD4-11 rivet in a piece of tubing without the rod end installed. I tried this several times and always got the same result. It appears that the rod end provides enough structure that the rivets don't bend too much inside the rod end tube.
As I had already ruined a some installed rod ends, I used these parts to practise the techniques suggested by Carl and others until I was certain I could get good results.
Here is what I did to get 4 perfect rod ends: - First I made a V channel holder (see P1010015.JPG) as suggested by Carl. This I aligned on my drill press so that the drilled would always go through the centerline of a tube and clamped in place.
- Drill the #40 pilot hole with the rod end in place. Care must be taken to ensure that the rod end does not "wander" out of the tube when drilling. Prevent this by holding the rod end in place by hand when drilling. I also clamped the tube in the V channel to ensure it did not move.
- Insert a #40 drill bit in the drilled hole (see P1010019.JPG) and then drill the next hole. Re-drill this hole with the #30 bit then rotate and re-drill the first hole #30 - use a #30 drill bit in the first hole to keep everything aligned.
- After a bit of experimenting, I found that if I used a "fence" (See P100024.JPG) to help align parts, I could easily get great results using the back riveting method to install the ANAD4704-11 rivets.
- P1010023.JPG shows how I aligned the parts for riveting.
- I used several very short, light bursts on the rivet gun to get the results shown in pix P1010026.JPG. The shop heads are round and meet spec dead on. When riveting keep an eye on how the shop head on the rivet is moving - you may have to slightly rotate the tube etc if to keep the the shop head square to the back rivet plate.
Many thanks to those who passed on advice as to how to do these rod ends. The instructions in the plans are not very specific as to how to do these rivets. If you mess up - especially in riveting, you will be going back to the House of Vans for extra parts.
I have a couple of suggestions for those who are doing this for the first time. DO NOT cut the 21 11/32" rods from the stock. The stock rod is a few inches longer than required and so there is a little "forgiveness" available if you have a problem. I suggest installing a rod end first and then cutting the rod to the required length. You can waste about 5" before you need to order a new rod. As well, when cutting the rod, cut it about 1/16" too long and then use a disk sander with a table to square the end down to the exact length required.
This step seems quite simple in the plans but is deceptively difficult if you are doing it for the first time. For me, I found it impossible to drill out the -11 rivets without buggering the piece.
Cheers
Les "some assembly required" Kearney
#40643
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daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 5:43 am Post subject: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends |
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Nice job.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
do not archive
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