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Dale Ensing
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC
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 Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 5:34 am Post subject: Fuel tank SB |
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How was it working in the crack? Were you able to get the fuel probe out.?
Working between the fuse and the wing wasn't too bad while taking it apart.
(I had used Allen head cap screws.) For the 6 wing the fuel level sender
must be removed first. Then the plate.
Putting it all back togather was another story. It was a b****! Hard not to
make a mess with the sealant. Much easier to insert and turn the plate and
pick-up tube into position with the tank removed.Drilling the B nut was done
with a little tool from Avery for drilling bolts for safty wire. It went
easily.
Will be removing the right tank when I to it.
Dale
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Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
Weddington NC |
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Steve Glasgow
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 674
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| Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 4:41 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank SB |
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A bitch but doable without removing the tank. All total, 10-12 man hours
to do the left tank. Experience will help when Cappy does the right one.
Start by getting all the parts you need from Van's. Cork gaskets for the
big hole, rubber gaskets for the fuel sender, 2 small jars or peo-seal
(really nice and just enough) and whatever screws you want to use. Ground
the plane. I have a grounding wire I made and one ground bar if anyone
wants to borrow them.
Next, I siphoned as much 100LL out as I could, then I un-screwed the drain
valve and drained the remainder into a fuel can. Next, I vented the tank by
holding a vacuum set to blow in the fuel cap hole for about 5 minutes.
After the tank was vented I started to remove the old pro-seal before I even
tried to open the tank which kept the trash out as much as possible. I had
used way to much pro-seal the first time so I had a pain removing it. I
found a 1/2 and 1/4 wood chisel worked the best. Also a razor blade helped
with the heavy stuff. You will find it is easier to work from under the
plane. After getting as much off as possible I started with the drimel with
a wire brush and cleaned all the rest off I could. Next I took the wire
to the fuel sending unit off and took out the 5 screws that hold the fuel
sender and removed it with no problem. Again I vented the tank. Next you
want to remove the fuel line and tape it. I needs to be removed at the fuel
valve and the tank and pushed into the plane so as to give you more room.
Next I taped the fuel sender hole and started on the access cover screws. I
should have spent more time with the drimel and taken a pick to the heads of
the screws because I stripped two screws that were loaded with pro-seal. Oh
well live and learn. That was enough for the first day (4 hours).
The next day Tonto came to the rescue (Dale Ensing) and we were able to
remove the stripped screws with his needle nose vice grip pliers. Thanks
Dale! Kudos, Kudos, Kudos.
After the screws were out we managed to release the plate with a heavy duty
sharpened putty knife and hammer. Next Dale cleaned the hole with MKE
while I used the wire brush on the electric motor to clean the covers. Yes
MEK softens the goo and will clean it off. Still lots of rubbing but it
works.
We canted the pick up tube about 1 1/2 inches outboard to make for an easier
instillation of the cover plate, drilled the hole in the B nut with Dale's
little jig and safeted it with 0.32 wire. All no problem .
Don't forget to clean any trash out of the tank. We used the vacuum with a
small hose fitted to the vacuum hose.
Now it became a two man job. We buttered the cover plate with pro-seal laid
the gasket in the goo and buttered it again, we added 3 screws to hold it in
place while we both installed it together. He was on the top and I was on
the bottom, of the wing that is. Really a two man job here to get it in
place without dislodging all the goo and making a bigger mess. Don't
forget to tape the edge of the wing on the top and the bottom to prevent
getting goo on your paint. Next we dipped each screw into the goo and
screwed the cover plate down, installed the fuel pick up with only a rubber
gasket (no goo on the gasket just the screws).
Re-install the fuel line, let it cure for at least 4 days add fuel and say a
prayer that it doesn't leak!!!!!!!
Don't you just want to kill Van.
Call me if you want to know more or have questions. As always Cappy is
available ever Saturday to help.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
704-362-0005
704-281-7884
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Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG |
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Larry Bowen
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 802
Location: NC, USA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 8:00 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank SB |
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So the b-nuts were found to be tight from the original installation?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
[quote] --
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Larry Bowen
RV-8 SOLD,
RV-7QB in progress... |
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sportav8r(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 8:31 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank SB |
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My tanks have been off before. If I ever get around to this SB, I'll pull 'em again, after reading what you went through!
-Stormy
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Steve Glasgow
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 674
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| Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 3:24 am Post subject: Fuel Tank SB |
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Yes B nut was tight.
---
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Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG |
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N136CH(at)webtv.net (Char
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 10:08 am Post subject: Fuel Tank SB |
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What is this fuel tank SB. I checked Van's site and checked with
several RV owners at EAA chapter meeting yesterday. We are familiar
with the one securing the pickup tube to avoid rotation but that was
several years ago.
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Larry Bowen
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 802
Location: NC, USA
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rwayne(at)gamewood.net
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| Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 5:04 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank SB |
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This is a real concern of mine that Vans expects us to learn this stuff on
our own. When I had my Cardinal SBs were mailed to all registered owners.
One could easily argue they never heard of the SB.--- There. I feel better.
Wayne
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