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rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.N
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 Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:21 pm Post subject: Is this scheme valid to save weight, add flexi |
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Hi Bob Thx. for the reply
My mission is to electrically connect my aft battery to the upfront 914
supplying it sufficient amperage and voltage, while being able to fit
wires neatly under door sill/fuse seam and allow routing required to
connect to battery switch (tight bends).
Old style starter amp draw is stated at I think 60 amps, I have new style
that is a bit less.
If I can save some weight in the process that is a bonus.
Just a quick calculation of one #4 compared to two #8s for 5 meters of
wire would be a savings of a little over a half pound with two #8s.
The larger the diameter of wires, the harder it will be to route under
door sill and allow for door centering pin receptacle to help keep door
from bulging.
#4 Tefzel wire is .310" in diameter
#6 EPDM jacket 259 strand is .332" diameter (#4 406 strand .380")
#6 Chlorinated Polyethylene 660 strand is .370" diameter (#4 1045 strand
.420")
It's true I could lap solder #6 welding wire to #4 Tefzel, but my interior
cover/conduit for wires would need to be larger to accommodate, and the
laps would be in an already tight area. Butt soldering #4 Tefzel to #6
welding would approx. be the same diameter.
I am not sure of the weight of welding cable compared to Tefzel, but I
would think it heavier.
I have a Hobart TRT 250 TIG welder. The ground wire I suspect is EPDM
jacketed. It has cracks and splits and in general the jacketing is in bad
health. True it sees a lot of UV and for a TIG ground strap that is fine.
Are you be happy with using EPDM jacketed welding cable for the full run
to and from engine to aft battery knowing if it smokes, a dozen feet is in
the cockpit (aeroplane is fiberglass)? How about only 1 foot?
Same question with Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed welding cable:
Are you be happy with using Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed welding
cable for the full run to and from engine to aft battery knowing if it
smokes, a dozen feet is in the cockpit (aeroplane is fiberglass)? How
about only 1 foot?
Knowing I need flexibility for routing at battery switch, want the
smallest diameter that is feasible, be able to provide reasonable voltage
and cranking amps, not take unreasonable risks of breathing noxious fumes
if wires smoke, not have much risk that aging wire insulation will crack
and split and be the instigator of smoke and loss of electron flow and be
of a reasonable weight.
What would be your two favorite choices:
****#4 Tefzel with #6 EPDM jacketed butt soldered battery and battery
switch ends?
****#4 Tefzel with #6 Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed butt soldered
battery and battery switch ends?
****All #4 EPDM jacketed wire?
****All #4 Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed wire?
****Two paralleled #8 Tefzel wire that doesn't need twisting?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
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l_luv2_fly(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:13 pm Post subject: Is this scheme valid to save weight, add flexi |
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Hi Ron,
I have been up and down this pole with my Europa. I ended up running the + # 4 welding cable in the duct under the window sill and the - # 4 cable through the wheel tunnel. The battery and contactor are in close proximity under the baggage bay.
With all that said, I can remember when I purchased the cable (25' if I remember) thinking how much the darn stuff weighed. I haven't done the comparisons, but it would be worth seeing if there was a worthwhile saving using CCA cable that Eric sells. For the sake of calculation, I think that I ultimately used about 22' of welding cable. The only downside is that it does have a larger diameter than # 4 welding cable.
Cheers, Paul
--- On Thu, 12/25/08, rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US <rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US> wrote:
| Quote: | From: rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US <rparigor(at)SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US>
Subject: Re: Is this scheme valid to save weight, add flexibility and reduce noise from fat wires?
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, December 25, 2008, 11:16 PM
| Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.usHi Bob Thx. for the replyMy mission is to electrically connect my aft battery to the upfront 914supplying it sufficient amperage and voltage, while being able to fitwires neatly under door sill/fuse seam and allow routing required toconnect to battery switch (tight bends).Old style starter amp draw is stated at I think 60 amps, I have new stylethat is a bit less.If I can save some weight in the process that is a bonus.Just a
quick calculation of one #4 compared to two #8s for 5 meters ofwire would be a savings of a little over a half pound with two #8s.The larger the diameter of wires, the harder it will be to route underdoor sill and allow for door centering pin receptacle to help keep doorfrom bulging.#4 Tefzel wire is .310" in diameter#6 EPDM jacket 259 strand is .332" diameter (#4 406 strand .380")#6 Chlorinated Polyethylene 660 strand is .370" diameter (#4 1045 strand.420")It's true I could lap solder #6 welding wire to #4 Tefzel, but my interiorcover/conduit for wires would need to be larger to accommodate, and thelaps would be in an already tight area. Butt soldering #4 Tefzel to #6welding would approx. be the same diameter.I am not sure of the weight of welding cable compared to Tefzel, but Iwould think it heavier.I have a Hobart TRT 250 TIG welder. The ground wire I suspect is
EPDMjacketed. It has cracks and splits and in general the jacketing is in badhealth. True it sees a lot of UV and for a TIG ground strap that is fine.Are you be happy with using EPDM jacketed welding cable for the full runto and from engine to aft battery knowing if it smokes, a dozen feet is inthe cockpit (aeroplane is fiberglass)? How about only 1 foot?Same question with Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed welding cable:Are you be happy with using Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed weldingcable for the full run to and from engine to aft battery knowing if itsmokes, a dozen feet is in the cockpit (aeroplane is fiberglass)? Howabout only 1 foot?Knowing I need flexibility for routing at battery switch, want thesmallest diameter that is feasible, be able to provide reasonable voltageand cranking amps, not take unreasonable risks of breathing noxious fumesif wires smoke, not have much risk
that aging wire insulation will crackand split and be the instigator of smoke and loss of electron flow and beof a reasonable weight.What would be your two favorite choices:****#4 Tefzel with #6 EPDM jacketed butt soldered battery and batteryswitch ends?****#4 Tefzel with #6 Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed butt solderedbattery and battery switch ends?****All #4 EPDM jacketed wire?****All #4 Chlorinated Polyethylene jacketed wire?****Two paralleled #8 Tefzel wire that doesn't need twisting?Thx.Ron Parigoris |
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