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Anything wrong with using a plier style crimper?

 
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:44 am    Post subject: Anything wrong with using a plier style crimper? Reply with quote

At 10:38 PM 12/27/2008, you wrote:

Quote:
I rounded up some ratcheting style crimping tools from airport folk
and a homebuilder for crimping Red crimp on connectors from Stein
(fast on and ring).

Got hold of a Paladin tool with several sets of dies, and some no
name non adjustable tool.

The die sets for the Paladine:
****Part number said for insulated terminals and had 3 colored dots
including red
****There was a set of dies with no part number but fit tool
(perhaps from Stein??) and looked like for insulated terminals
And a few others, one for uninsulated terminals and other

First off no matter what the adjustment, if using 22 gauge wire,
even with the dies completely bottomed, could not get as much a grip
as i would like. I could semi make it better by splicing more wire
and doubling it over to better fill hole. Problem was it still did
not crimp wire terrific and the portion that was to crimp on the
insulation for strain relief was too far away (too wide a die?)
where it was only partially catching the metal in the terminals. All
the terminals from Stein and Terminal Town and Mcmaster (double
metal) appeared to be too short for tool. I tried all the dies I had
and combinations. Not great success with the no name tool with fixed
dies and is non adjustable.

I could get an OK crimp, probably will work and with heat shrink
support will probably be OK, but insulation was not captured
properly and if i sliced open the crimp on the wire, you could see
it is not as compact as would be nice.

Then I pulled out an old and rusty Whitaker WC2850 tool, looks like
a pair of pliers with several dies on it.

After some practice I can make what I think is a very nice crimp,
far better than what I could do with the other tools.

*First I stripped twice what I need and double up tail to go into terminal
*Then crimp with RARB die about 1/16" from the edge of terminal
*Then use a part of tool called "A" which is kind of a half cylinder
(feel here is important) and put a dimple on top of terminal where I
just crimped. I tried to over crimp this step and if I go crazy
where terminal in stead of being straight begins to bend, I can tear
wire when pulled very hard because wire is mashed too much. I am
pretty confident can repeat this dimple consistently. When I sliced
practice terminals apart had a very compacted crimp without strands
being deformed/mashed. Without dimple, crimp is acceptable in my
mind for automobiles only, and places easy to get at with no moisture present.
*Then use RARB to crimp wire insulation about 1/16" from edge, no
hurting of insulation at all and wire is held pretty good.

Anyone see any problems crimping like I describe? i could have
stripped and crimped a dozen terminals in time it took me to write this.

Ron Parigoris

The physics for making a gas-tight connection between wire
and terminal is process-sensitive. The "ideal" crimped
junction puts sufficient force on the terminal to close
the cross-section of terminal and wire copper just to the
point that the terminal and wire strands become one piece
of metal. Too little mash, and voids in the joint allow
oxygen laden moisture to enter raising risk of failure
due to corrosion. Too much mash and strength of the
strands is weakened by reduction of cross-section thus
raising risk of failure under tension/vibration. See:

http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html

Dimple-crimps are for terminals going onto solid wire
only. See "Solistrand" terminals and tooling from AMP.

You will note that all crimp tools suggested and/or
evaluated in our writing are free of "dimple" punches.
The PIDG style terminal is best applied with uniform
pressure offered by smooth bore dies.

Of secondary concern is molding of the wire-grip to the
conductor just outside the joint. The terminal may have
too little volume in the closed condition for the amount
of plastic in the terminal's wire support insulation.
See:

http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/JST_Samples_2.jpg

These terminals were electrically okay when installed with
our favorite tools . . . but did not become part of our
inventory because we had no tools that would do a professional
looking installation.

Ron, it's not possible to encourage or discourage use of the
tools you've cited without making a first-hand evaluation
of their performance under the guide-lines discussed in
the article above and these additional pieces found on
my website . . .

http://aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf

http://aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf

Finally, on the subject of wire-joining, I'll remind
readers of this article published some years back
in Sport Aviation. The author didn't have a
clue about simple-ideas for the processes in
which he claimed considerable knowledged and skill.

http://aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
Bob . . .


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