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D-sub connections

 
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trumanst(at)neitel.net
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:01 pm    Post subject: D-sub connections Reply with quote

Bob,Is there a comic book that explains how to make a d-sub crimp.
How to use the tool, etc.
I have looked over your site, no joy.
Thanks,

Kevin Boddicker
Tri Q 200 N7868B 115.3 hours
Luana, IA.

[quote][b]


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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:27 am    Post subject: D-sub connections Reply with quote

At 03:58 PM 1/17/2009, you wrote:
Quote:
Bob,
Is there a comic book that explains how to make a d-sub crimp.
How to use the tool, etc.
I have looked over your site, no joy.

Never considered adding one. The use of the
tool is pretty easy to dope out by inspection.
If you have the right tool, there are no variables
of process or technique. This is about as artless
an activity as you can find in the field of
fabrication skills for building an airplane.

If you study the pins . . .

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Socket.jpg

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Pin.jpg

You can mate a couple of them as if they were
inside housings. In all cases, the smallest
diameter on a pin is gripped by springy
contacts within the socket. The open ends
of a mated pair always look the same, may have
an identifying set if color bands and
usually have an inspection hole.

Strip a piece of wire and insert the stripped
end into the wire grip end of a pin or socket.
Note whether the wire bottoms out in the pin
before the insulation hits. If the gap between
pin an insulation is more than say 0.050" (tiny)
then you've stripped off too much wire. If the
insulation touches, you've not stripped off
enough. Get that one piece of the "art" figured
out first.

I like to hold a stripped wire up, perch a pin
on the end and lower the tool over it. When fully
seated in the tool, squeeze.

When you've finished, the job looks something
like this:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-quad-crimp.jpg

The punches in the tool should compress the
barrel right about mid-ships. Some of the lower
cost tools place the crimp too far back toward
the wire-grip opening. It CAN be pretty close
but never so close that you loose the bell-mouth
opening. You should be able to see strands in
the inspection hole . . . this assures you that
the strands extend all the way through the wire
grip and that internally, there's another
bell-mouth opening from which the strands
protrude.
Bob . . .

----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------


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trumanst(at)neitel.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:59 am    Post subject: D-sub connections Reply with quote

Thanks Bob, for all you do!!!
Kevin Boddicker
Tri Q 200 N7868B 
Luana, IA.

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On Jan 18, 2009, at 8:24 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
[quote] [quote][b]


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