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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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 Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:12 pm Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Hi
It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I mated the tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I must say, the completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made my wife forget that she had to park outside for the winter…
Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the canopy. It took a couple of wood/drywall blades to complete the job but it did it nicely. I found that it was easy to control the cut line and get a very precise & straight cut. I don’t think a normal reciprocating saw would have done as neat a job. Given that it cost under $100 CDN (about $80US), it was well worth the investment.
The other observation is that the tail cone really does attach quite easily. It took my friend Larry and I only about an hour or so to get everything lined up and clecoed.
I do have a question regarding the canopy fit. I plan to call Van’s tomorrow but thought I would ask the list first. After fitting the doors square, I notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16” above the skins (that is the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the top of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks like I would have to take too much depth off the bottom of the door.
Cheers
Les
#40643 – Some assembly required (but less than yesterday)
[quote][b]
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rv10rob(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 9:01 pm Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Hey, Les... sounds like we're at about the same point in the build. I
actually found that the gap between the top of the skin and the joggle was
slightly bigger on the forward side (near the door opening). 3/16" sounds
like a lot, though. Ours is probably 1/16 or maybe 3/32 at its biggest
point. Even with that gap, we had to trim the bottoms of the door openings
very thin, pretty much eliminating that 1/16" the plans call for.
We clecoed on the tailcone forward top skin, and it fit nice and snug
against the cabin top. The canopy joggle gap was huge on the sides, but a
call to Van's confirmed that is okay, given there's plenty of edge
distance. I'm curious if you encounter the same thing.
-Rob
On Sun, May 3, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> wrote:
[quote] Hi
It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I mated the
tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I must say, the
completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made my wife forget that
she had to park outside for the winter…
Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the canopy
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johngoodman
Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA
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partner14
Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 540
Location: Granbury Texas
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 5:48 am Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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John, you got it done after only 15 fittings.... you're my new idol!
Don
--- On Mon, 5/4/09, johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, May 4, 2009, 6:11 AM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)>
Unless you've pulled the canopy and sanded it at least 15 times, it sounds like you need a little more work on where the door part sits. 
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopsp; --> http://foru - List Contribution We -Matt Dralle, List m/contribution" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[quote][b]
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Don A. McDonald
40636 |
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 5:53 am Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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The guys at Dave Saylor's (Aircrafters) did it with only two fittings.
I have a few more iterations...
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 4-May-09, at 7:11 AM, johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
>
Unless you've pulled the canopy and sanded it at least 15 times, it
sounds like you need a little more work on where the door part
sits.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 42618#242618
|
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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 7:04 am Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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I had to take mine down to 1/16" in a spot or two.
After watching Dave's team do it, I only required 20 or so fittings. I
think I could get it down to 15 on my 2nd or 3rd try. Maybe.
Les Kearney wrote:
| Quote: |
The guys at Dave Saylor's (Aircrafters) did it with only two fittings.
I have a few more iterations...
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 4-May-09, at 7:11 AM, johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
>
> Unless you've pulled the canopy and sanded it at least 15 times, it
> sounds like you need a little more work on where the door part sits.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 42618#242618
>
>
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jeff(at)westcottpress.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:44 am Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Hi Les,
The height the joggle sits above the side skins is determined by the canopy thickness at the door sill (something you can control) and as you move aft by the distance from the tailcone forward top skin down to the joggle (something you can't control). If the gap is even all the way across or gets bigger as you move aft, you've probably done all you can do.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 3, 2009, at 9:10 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
| Quote: | Hi
It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I mated the tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I must say, the completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made my wife forget that she had to park outside for the winter…
Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the canopy. It took a couple of wood/drywall blades to complete the job but it did it nicely. I found that it was easy to control the cut line and get a very precise & straight cut. I don’t think a normal reciprocating saw would have done as neat a job. Given that it cost under $100 CDN (about $80US), it was well worth the investment.
The other observation is that the tail cone really does attach quite easily. It took my friend Larry and I only about an hour or so to get everything lined up and clecoed.
I do have a question regarding the canopy fit. I plan to call Van’s tomorrow but thought I would ask the list first. After fitting the doors square, I notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16” above the skins (that is the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the top of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks like I would have to take too much depth off the bottom of the door.
Cheers
Les
#40643 – Some assembly required (but less than yesterday)
| Quote: | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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Lenny Iszak
Joined: 23 Mar 2008
Posts: 270
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 9:01 am Post subject: Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Les,
3/16 is about where mine is. I didn't want to make the door sill that much thinner...
Lenny
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Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 11:59 am Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Les,
>> After fitting the doors square, I notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16” above the skins (that is the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the top of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks like I would have to take too much depth off the bottom of the door. <<
The thing to look for in the seam under the windows is to make sure you have good edge distance on the fiberglass for the rivets along that horizontal line. As long as you have that, the width of the gap left over by the joggle isn't too important. 3/16" seems like a bit on the large side, but as you remove material from the bottom of the door frame, you also might start interfering along the lower side of the joggle. So you have to balance how thick you want the bottom of the door frame with how much you can afford to remove from downward-pointing leg of the joggle. My plane has ALL of the lower door frame removed in one tiny area. For the most part, you'll see the lower outboard edge of the frame thinner than 1/8".
Any questions just call.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
[quote][b]
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 6:13 pm Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Hi Guys
Many thanks for all the canopy responses. I plan to relook at my canopy tomorrow and then call Van’s. I was delayed today due to a tunnel access I was installing and missed the tech support window.
Cheers
Les
#40643 – some assembly required
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: May-04-09 1:52 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Canopy Question / Observation
Les,
>> After fitting the doors square, I notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16” above the skins (that is the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the top of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks like I would have to take too much depth off the bottom of the door. <<
The thing to look for in the seam under the windows is to make sure you have good edge distance on the fiberglass for the rivets along that horizontal line. As long as you have that, the width of the gap left over by the joggle isn't too important. 3/16" seems like a bit on the large side, but as you remove material from the bottom of the door frame, you also might start interfering along the lower side of the joggle. So you have to balance how thick you want the bottom of the door frame with how much you can afford to remove from downward-pointing leg of the joggle. My plane has ALL of the lower door frame removed in one tiny area. For the most part, you'll see the lower outboard edge of the frame thinner than 1/8".
Any questions just call.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com | Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
0123456789
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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nukeflyboy
Joined: 05 Jan 2008
Posts: 162
Location: Granbury, TX
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| Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 9:57 am Post subject: Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Les,
Here is another way of looking at what the above have said in different ways. Look at the horizontal joggle along the full length (fore-aft) relative to the side skin. The front portion (joggle) should fit closely to the skin. It can be brought down by trimming the door sill. There was not much door sill left on mine when I was done. The aft joggle is really dictated by the attachment to the bulkhead/top skin. You can't do much about it except fill it in later. Mine was about 1/8 inch. Last, make sure that you trim excess off the joggle flange to make sure it clears the longeron (no interference).
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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_________________
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying |
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nukeflyboy
Joined: 05 Jan 2008
Posts: 162
Location: Granbury, TX
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| Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 9:57 am Post subject: Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Les,
Here is another way of looking at what the above have said in different ways. Look at the horizontal joggle along the full length (fore-aft) relative to the side skin. The front portion (joggle) should fit closely to the skin. It can be brought down by trimming the door sill. There was not much door sill left on mine when I was done. The aft joggle is really dictated by the attachment to the bulkhead/top skin. You can't do much about it except fill it in later. Mine was about 1/8 inch. Last, make sure that you trim excess off the joggle flange to make sure it clears the longeron (no interference).
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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_________________
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying |
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 6:53 am Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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Hi
I have been late in posting this....
I spoke to Ken Scott of Vans on Tuesday who advised that the door sill
should be no thinner than 1/8" (perhaps slightly thinner is okay). He also
advised that a 3/32" gap between the canopy joggle and mid fuse skin at the
door frame was acceptable.
It is good to have this info so now I know that standard to work with...
Cheers
Les
#40643 - some assembly required.
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 8:20 am Post subject: Canopy Question / Observation |
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As stated before the important point is that there is enough material for the pop rivets to hang onto and that the intersection with the rear aluminum on the top mates correctly.
One more thing to remember is that the thinner you make the door sill fiberglass C notice that it tapers inward toward the part that is on the outside of the sill(expososed side). So the more you thin it C the further inside the sill sits inside the aluminum fuse opening which then affect the way the doors interface with the structures when the door is closed.
John 409
[quote] From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
Date: Thu C 7 May 2009 08:51:11 -0600
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Hi
I have been late in posting this....
I spoke to Ken Scott of Vans on Tuesday who advised that the door sill
should be no thinner than 1/8" (perhaps slightly thinner is okay). He also
advised that a 3/32" gap between the canopy joggle and mid fuse skin at the
door frame was acceptable.
It is good to have this info so now I know that standard to work with...
Cheers
Les
#40643 - some assembly required.
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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