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Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3

 
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JakeTheBosun



Joined: 09 Jun 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Whitehorse, Yukon

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:06 am    Post subject: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 Reply with quote

Thanks so far to those with advice!

It was frustrating to watch the engine gauges overheat and melt while watching 14.2 Volts show on multimeter at gauge. Right now, I turn master on and all gauges light up, but after I start some gauges drop off and fail to power up unless I cycle the Master. Is this from low voltage do you suppose?

-I plan to replace all damaged gauges (Volt, Oil Temp, Manifold)
-I will replace alternator (currently a Nippon Denso internally regulated with standard pulley) despite it testing OK.
-Should I add over-voltage separately?
-Should I switch instrument power to eliminate them being on line during start?

Thanks for ideas...Jake


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Bruce(at)glasair.org
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:32 am    Post subject: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 Reply with quote

I think you're looking in the wrong place. You're drawing to many amps
through the instruments. Hook up an ammeter to the instrument ground and
measure the draw when you start the engine and while running.

Bruce
www.Glasair.org

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JakeTheBosun



Joined: 09 Jun 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Whitehorse, Yukon

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:48 am    Post subject: Re: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 Reply with quote

Thanks Bruce...(will do this tomorrow - child-minding today).
I have a trend ammeter beside voltmeter....it shows nothing alarming but it might not reflect instrument situation.
The instruments are fused at 3 amps...but that is at the buss and I think you are suggesting something different is happening.


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JakeTheBosun



Joined: 09 Jun 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Whitehorse, Yukon

PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:19 am    Post subject: Re: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 Reply with quote

Well I spent some time with the ammeter, with and without engine running. There appeared to be no overheating. There is less than an amp at the instrument buss. There is less than 4 amps overall at the alternator once it recovers from start. I even tried banging on the alternator while it was running. All the grounds and connections have been checked.

....all I am left with is the assumption that the alternator ran away....cooked the resistors in the gauges, and they finished melting when it was producing within limits. Also I think that the "starting" draw down is not good.

I plan to change the alternator and instruments. I wonder if anyone has suggestion about isloating instruments during start cycle?

Thanks!


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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:49 am    Post subject: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 Reply with quote

At 11:19 AM 6/22/2009, you wrote:
Quote:

<george(at)yukonflying.com>

Well I spent some time with the ammeter, with and without engine
running. There appeared to be no overheating. There is less than an
amp at the instrument buss. There is less than 4 amps overall at
the alternator once it recovers from start. I even tried banging on
the alternator while it was running. All the grounds and connections
have been checked.

....all I am left with is the assumption that the alternator ran
away....cooked the resistors in the gauges, and they finished
melting when it was producing within limits. Also I think that the
"starting" draw down is not good.

I plan to change the alternator and instruments. I wonder if anyone
has suggestion about isloating instruments during start cycle?

What alternator/regulator combination are you using?
Do you have any form of OV protection? Any OV
event that is even slightly hazardous to aircraft
electro-whizzies is easily managed by appropriate
protection.
Bob . . .

---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------


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