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Tank Leak Found

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jeff(at)rmmm.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:21 am Post subject: Tank Leak Found

To All that responded... THANKS!

After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I 

have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the 

corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is bonded 

onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as the non 

giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in 

agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed in but 

rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too late for me 

now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to repair it either 

using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.



Options:

1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the 

tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being 

able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it 

sets up thats not necessary. ???

2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a 

better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me 

to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that 

later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank 

after draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to flame treat 

the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into 

the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the filler 

cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are 

welcome.



Best regards and thanks to all!!

Jeff R.

A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

topglock(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:10 am Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Jeff,



If you can't get the Pro Seal to work, my suggestion would be to pull 

the tank.  Once out, you might as well replace it, so the Tap process is 

a non issue.  Don't heat the tank, especially in the A/C.



When installing the new tank, you might try lining the original glass 

layups (if they still exist) with a thin felt.  That way the tank can 

move, slightly.



Jeff - baby Blue



JEFF ROBERTS wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   To All that responded... THANKS!

 After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I 

 have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the corner 

 of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is bonded onto 

 the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as the non giving 

 glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in agreement 

 with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed in but rather 

 fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too late for me now... 

 It is however in an area that I can reach it to repair it either using 

 pro-seal or the tap plastics product.

 

 Options:

 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the 

 tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being 

 able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it sets 

 up thats not necessary. ???

 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a better 

 way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me to cut an 

 additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that later. 

 BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after 

 draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to flame treat the to 

 be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into the tank 

 and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any 

 other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome.

 

 Best regards and thanks to all!!

 

 

 Jeff R.

 A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

 size  color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">

 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List 

 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

acrojim7534(at)YAHOO.COM
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:24 am Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Jeff

  

 The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I was unsure how well the pro seal would work and I felt the need for insurance. 

  

 The tank about three or four years later developed a crack like you have. It had also cracked at the edge of the fiberglass layup in the tunnel. I had to replace the tank and I did NOT glass  it in. Its free standing...

  

 Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original patch.. It was still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried to pull it off, I got it removed, but it was in torn in several pieces by the pliers.

  

 Jim Brown



--- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> wrote:



  	  Quote: 	
		  

From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>

Subject: Tank Leak Found

To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM



 To All that responded... THANKS!

After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is bonded onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as the non giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed in but rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too late for me now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.



Options:

1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it sets up thats not necessary. ???

2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg  sent sounds like a better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to flame treat the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome.



Best regards and thanks to all!!

Jeff R.

A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

	


          [quote][b]

gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcas
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:56 am Post subject: Tank Leak Found

I too, have good things about pro-seal being used (non-poly situations). It certainly seems the safer way to go…  

   

The other route, I would personally run air through the tank, bottom to top, for a minimum of 2 weeks, while the gas and fumes are excised out of the plastic.  

With the fuel issues, time involved, and cutting an access hole, maybe this method is a bit demanding.  

   

Greg  

 _____________________________

 Options:

 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not being able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe once it sets up thats not necessary. ???

 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to flame treat the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome. 

 

 Best regards and thanks to all!!

 

 

 <?fontfamily><?param Helvetica>Jeff R.

 A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

 <?/fontfamily>

 

 <?pre><?b><?font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">  

       [quote][b]

kjburns(at)btinternet.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:10 pm Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Purging petrol fumes, I was told by a welder of petrol tanks that he ran a car exhaust in to the tank to purge it of petrol fumes and also air ! 

The alternative solution would be purge with an inert gas, IE nitrogen,this is done when working on natural gas pipelines.

 Make sure any pockets that could hold inflammable mix is purged,personally I would check the completeness of the purge with a gas detector .. also check adjacent areas for fuel puddles & Fumes



Kevin



--- On Tue, 14/7/09, Jim Brown <acrojim7534(at)YAHOO.COM> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534(at)YAHOO.COM>

 Subject: Re: Tank Leak Found

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

 Date: Tuesday, 14 July, 2009, 8:21 PM

 Jeff

  

 The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I

 was unsure how well the pro seal would work and I felt the

 need for insurance. 

  

 The tank about three or four years later developed a

 crack like you have. It had also cracked at the edge of the

 fiberglass layup in the tunnel. I had to replace the tank

 and I did NOT glass  it in. Its free standing...

  

 Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original

 patch.. It was still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried

 to pull it off, I got it removed, but it was in torn in

 several pieces by the pliers.

  

 Jim Brown

 

 --- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS

 <jeff(at)rmmm..net> wrote:

 

 

 From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>

 Subject: Tank Leak Found

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

 Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM

 

 

 To All that responded... THANKS!

 After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap

 mixture I have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running

 diagonal from the corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel.

 Its where the glass is bonded onto the tank to hold it in.

 It looks like a stress crack as the non giving glass may

 have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in

 agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be

 glassed in but rather fitted in a way that allows some

 movement. Okay too late for me now... It is however in an

 area that I can reach it to repair it either using pro-seal

 or the tap plastics product.

 

 Options:

 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the

 top of the tank a few years back and it works well. I'm

 concerned about not being able to compress a patch around it

 or over it though. Maybe once it sets up thats not

 necessary. ???

 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg

  sent sounds like a better way to go as a permanent patch.

 This one though may require me to cut an additional hole

 behind the access hole and then repair that later. BUT...

 how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after

 draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to

 flame treat the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe

 continuing to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to

 eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to

 help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome.

 

 Best regards and thanks to all!!

 

 

 Jeff R.

 A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for

 repairs.

jeff(at)rmmm.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:46 pm Post subject: Tank Leak Found

I believe I'm going to pro seal the crack and use the patch idea. Maybe  

before I replace the tank in the future the new Europa will come up  

with an alternitive plan for doing this or a new tank. Maybe they  

should consider a metal option.

Thanks again guys. Hoe to see you all at Rough River!!



Jeff R.

A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush

On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:08 PM, Jeff B wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Jeff,



 If you can't get the Pro Seal to work, my suggestion would be to pull  

 the tank.  Once out, you might as well replace it, so the Tap process  

 is a non issue.  Don't heat the tank, especially in the A/C.



 When installing the new tank, you might try lining the original glass  

 layups (if they still exist) with a thin felt.  That way the tank can  

 move, slightly.



 Jeff - baby Blue



 JEFF ROBERTS wrote:

> To All that responded... THANKS!

> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I  

> have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the  

> corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is  

> bonded onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as  

> the non giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm  

> now in agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed  

> in but rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too  

> late for me now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to  

> repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.

> Options:

> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the  

> tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not  

> being able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe  

> once it sets up thats not necessary. ???

> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg sent sounds like a  

> better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me  

> to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that  

> later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank  

> after draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to flame treat  

> the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air  

> into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the  

> filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial  

> hairs are welcome.

> Best regards and thanks to all!!

> Jeff R.

> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

> size  color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">

> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http:// 

> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List  

> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// 

> www.matronics.com/contribution

fklein(at)orcasonline.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:43 pm Post subject: Tank Leak Found

On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:43 PM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   I believe I'm going to pro seal the crack and use the patch idea.  

 Maybe before I replace the tank in the future the new Europa will  

 come up with an alternitive plan for doing this or a new tank.


	


Best of luck to you Jeff...



This thread prompts me to review my build log photos, and I'm noticing  

that I extended Layup #2 all the way to the bottom corners of the tank  

in hopes of preventing a stress concentration where the #2 layup ends  

as shown in Fig. 5 of chapter 16 in the manual. I thank Ron Pagoris  

for that tip, and I also plan to add the foam and bond-break sheet  

between the bottom of the tank and fuselage in order that the tank  

have uniform support across its bottom



At this point of course, I regret having bonded all the FG support  

tapes directly to the tank and not allowing the tank to "float" on the  

support tapes, but I'm hoping that I'll be able to dodge the bullet  

which has caught Jeff and others. What I truly regret is hearing that  

little voice which questioned the notion of rigidly bonding in the  

tank...promptly ignoring it...and essentially going by the book.



Fred

A194

-- 

This message has been scanned for viruses and

dangerous content by MailScanner, and is

believed to be clean.

jeff(at)rmmm.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 3:43 pm Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Jim, and all,

I'm going to use the pro seal approach and keep an eye on it. I would 

like to use the patch but have no material. Question... Since it is a 

patch why not just use a local piece of fuel can material. I thought 

Id' follow your advice and and rough it up with 80 grit on both the 

patch and the tank plus clean them with acetone before application. 

Sound okay to you all?

Thanks,



Jeff R.

A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush



On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:21 PM, Jim Brown wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Jeff

  

 The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I was unsure how well the pro 

 seal would work and I felt the need for insurance.

  

 The tank about three or four years later developed a crack like you 

 have. It had also cracked at the edge of the fiberglass layup in the 

 tunnel. I had to replace the tank and I did NOT glass  it in. Its free 

 standing...

  

 Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original patch.. It was 

 still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried to pull it off, I got it 

 removed, but it was in torn in several pieces by the pliers.

  

 Jim Brown



 --- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm..net> wrote:

>

> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>

> Subject: Tank Leak Found

> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

> Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM

>

> To All that responded... THANKS!

> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I 

> have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the 

> corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is 

> bonded onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as 

> the non giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm 

> now in agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed 

> in but rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too 

> late for me now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to 

> repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.

>

> Options:

> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the 

> tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not 

> being able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe 

> once it sets up thats not necessary. ???

> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg  sent sounds like a 

> better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me 

> to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that 

> later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank 

> after draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to flame treat 

> the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air 

> into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the 

> filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial 

> hairs are welcome.

>

> Best regards and thanks to all!!

> Jeff R.

> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

paul.the.aviator(at)gmail
Guest

Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:05 pm Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Hi Jeff,  



I don't know if this is a dumb idea or not, but I was wondering is it is practical to seal up the tank, put Proseal on the leak and then connect a vacuum pump to the tank to suck the sealant into the crack.

 

Proseal is awfully messy stuff, but is it has a good track record for blocking up leaks in petrol tanks/



Paul

  [quote][b]

jeff(at)rmmm.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:11 am Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Paul,

Sounds like a good Idea. John Lawton gave me the Idea to drill the ends 

of the crack to stop it and maybe the vac could pull a little in the 

ends of the crack... Couldn't hurt I guess. It's a very thin crack so 

I'm not sure if the vac could pull the thick goo into the crack itself.

Thanks,



Jeff R.

A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush

On Jul 14, 2009, at 10:01 PM, Paul McAllister wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Hi Jeff, 



 I don't know if this is a dumb idea or not, but I was wondering is it 

 is practical to seal up the tank, put Proseal on the leak and then 

 connect a vacuum pump to the tank to suck the sealant into the crack.



 Proseal is awfully messy stuff, but is it has a good track record for 

 blocking up leaks in petrol tanks/



 Paul

rampil

Joined: 04 May 2007
Posts: 870

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:45 am Post subject: Re: Tank Leak Found

Hi All!



I don't think you will get much traction by sucking down the tank to pull

proseal through a crack - it is fairly viscous stuff.  I would just scuff sand

the  area around the crack and lay it on thick.



Ira

_________________
Ira N224XS

topglock(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 10:36 am Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Jeff, use a patch of some sort, even if it's just milk carton material. 

  Encase it in Pro Seal.



Jeff - Baby Blue



JEFF ROBERTS wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Jim, and all,

 I'm going to use the pro seal approach and keep an eye on it. I would 

 like to use the patch but have no material. Question... Since it is a 

 patch why not just use a local piece of fuel can material. I thought Id' 

 follow your advice and and rough it up with 80 grit on both the patch 

 and the tank plus clean them with acetone before application. Sound okay 

 to you all?

 Thanks,

 

 Jeff R.

 A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush

 

 On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:21 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

 

> Jeff

>  

> The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I was unsure how well the pro 

> seal would work and I felt the need for insurance.

>  

> The tank about three or four years later developed a crack like you 

> have. It had also cracked at the edge of the fiberglass layup in the 

> tunnel. I had to replace the tank and I did NOT glass  it in. Its free 

> standing...

>  

> Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original patch.. It was 

> still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried to pull it off, I got it 

> removed, but it was in torn in several pieces by the pliers.

>  

> Jim Brown

>

> --- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm..net> wrote:

>>

>> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>

>> Subject: Tank Leak Found

>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

>> Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM

>>

>> To All that responded... THANKS!

>> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture I 

>> have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the 

>> corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is 

>> bonded onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as 

>> the non giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm 

>> now in agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be glassed 

>> in but rather fitted in a way that allows some movement. Okay too 

>> late for me now... It is however in an area that I can reach it to 

>> repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics product.

>>

>> Options:

>> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of the 

>> tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about not 

>> being able to compress a patch around it or over it though. Maybe 

>> once it sets up thats not necessary. ???

>> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg  sent sounds like a 

>> better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require me 

>> to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair that 

>> later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank 

>> after draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to flame treat 

>> the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing to pump air 

>> into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually evaporate thru the 

>> filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid burning off any facial 

>> hairs are welcome.

>>

>> Best regards and thanks to all!!

>>

>>

>> Jeff R.

>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

jeff(at)rmmm.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:05 pm Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Roger that... Just waiting for my ACS order of the expensive goo!!  

Probably won't get here till Friday. I also had my Whelen power supply  

go down to, and a few other things to change while the bird is in the  

nest. So I'll keep busy while I'm waiting.  Id rather be flying ;o(



Thanks,



Jeff R.

A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush

On Jul 15, 2009, at 1:32 PM, Jeff B wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Jeff, use a patch of some sort, even if it's just milk carton  

 material.  Encase it in Pro Seal.



 Jeff - Baby Blue



 JEFF ROBERTS wrote:

> 

> Jim, and all,

> I'm going to use the pro seal approach and keep an eye on it. I would  

> like to use the patch but have no material. Question... Since it is a  

> patch why not just use a local piece of fuel can material. I thought  

> Id' follow your advice and and rough it up with 80 grit on both the  

> patch and the tank plus clean them with acetone before application.  

> Sound okay to you all?

> Thanks,

> Jeff R.

> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush

> On Jul 14, 2009, at 2:21 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

>> Jeff

>>  The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I was unsure how well the  

>> pro seal would work and I felt the need for insurance.

>>  The tank about three or four years later developed a crack like you  

>> have. It had also cracked at the edge of the fiberglass layup in the  

>> tunnel. I had to replace the tank and I did NOT glass  it in. Its  

>> free standing...

>>  Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original patch.. It was  

>> still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried to pull it off, I got it  

>> removed, but it was in torn in several pieces by the pliers.

>>  Jim Brown

>>

>> --- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm..net> wrote:

>>>

>>> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>

>>> Subject: Tank Leak Found

>>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

>>> Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM

>>>

>>> To All that responded... THANKS!

>>> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap mixture  

>>> I have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running diagonal from the  

>>> corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel. Its where the glass is  

>>> bonded onto the tank to hold it in. It looks like a stress crack as  

>>> the non giving glass may have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm  

>>> now in agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be  

>>> glassed in but rather fitted in a way that allows some movement.  

>>> Okay too late for me now... It is however in an area that I can  

>>> reach it to repair it either using pro-seal or the tap plastics  

>>> product.

>>>

>>> Options:

>>> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the top of  

>>> the tank a few years back and it works well. I'm concerned about  

>>> not being able to compress a patch around it or over it though.  

>>> Maybe once it sets up thats not necessary. ???

>>> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg  sent sounds like a  

>>> better way to go as a permanent patch. This one though may require  

>>> me to cut an additional hole behind the access hole and then repair  

>>> that later. BUT... how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the  

>>> tank after draining it so I don't blow myself up ( trying to  

>>> flame treat the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe continuing  

>>> to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to eventually  

>>> evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to help me avoid  

>>> burning off any facial hairs are welcome.

>>>

>>> Best regards and thanks to all!!

>>>

>>>

>>> Jeff R.

>>> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for repairs.

>>

>>

> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 

> --

> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:20 pm Post subject: Tank Leak Found

Hi Jeff



Good luck on your repair.



May I suggest a few things:

**Get hold of an "old" tank and try a practice repair. Motorcycle or snowmobile or old gas can

**I know that Lyc case repairs are done pulling a vacuum with thick windshield polyurethane that actual gets sucked in, try it on your practice piece

**For hahas, try a practice repair with Proseal and also one with Redux

**Don't know if you could get to tunnel, but if you can reinforcing with BID like I did, would probably layup 1 BID with Redux/peelply, then 2 BID with Aeropoxy/BID after cure. This would be to prevent further cracking. I would drive in some wedges to raise front of tank before glassing

**With wedges driven to lift tank in front, I would use low expansion foam and fill between fuse and tank to help support tank instead of having a 18 gallon cantelever on aft BID supports

**I like the idea of using a patch with Proseal that is somewhat flexible, this way if crack moves a little, it will not point load bond. McMaster sells plenty of rubber. I purchased some fuel pump diaphragm repair rubber with cloth reinforcement I used for fuel sensor gasket I kinda like, perhaps get hold of a piece and try it on your test sample



See album for some pics:

http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album233&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php



Ron Parigoris



from [Neville Eyre]	[Permanent Link]

Subject: 	Re: Fuel Tank Cleaning before Soldering Iron

Date: 	Fri, 14 Mar 2003 09:11:04 



Hi All,

After ALL the fuel has been drained, purge the fumes out with Carbon Dioxide, 

either

from a MIG welding plant, or from a brewery bottle. A bottle can be hired

from most drink supply depots for not a lot of money.

Leave the gas running until all smell of fuel has gone, and let a little trickle

all the while you are working on the tank.

Ensure the tip of the iron is clean.

Nev.



Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw> 03/11/03 11:52am >>>



Gidday,

I am wondering after reading Paul McAllisters website about the

recommendations for preping the fuel tank before I attack it with my

soldering iron to install the Europa fuel probe (magnetic). The question is

that I was only going to drain it of fuel and wash it out with water, but I

now fear that I need to do more than that. Does the plastic absorb some of

the fuel that would make things dangerous for me if I keep to my original

plan? 

Reg

Tony Renshaw



And if you must "gut"her: 



A)  Curious question, if you needed to replace tank in XS, how would you  do



it?        Remove upholstery, cut up  seatback from the kink,cut across the 



front at the kink, over the top,  and down the baggage bay,and across just 



above the tunnel,lift top  off. Spread in front and behind the top with auto 



scissor jacks / lumber  to open the fuselage out, do this with heat on it and over 



a full day, [  softly, softly ] and the tank will come out. I have done this a 



few   times, only once did I have to saw the tank up as it had swollen [ 



After the  first 50 or so tanks suplied, they don't swell now ] To repair the 



joint of  the cut off top, you need to cut away the outer skin, dig out the foam, 



5 min'  back in place, do a 2 Bid lay up onto the outer face of the INNER 



skin, micro  some foam onto the wet lay up, allow to cure. Sand the foam to flush 



and do a  two Bid lay up over the foam onto the outer skin. Usual scuffing 



practises  apply.



B) If a leak developed in tank, could it be repaired in  place?           



Kingsley  summed it up about right, I have done this 3 times [ all to tanks that 



had  been drilled by the owners ! ] I prefer to use tank sealing ''goo '', use 



 the 2 hour one, the 1/2 hour sets too fast. On small holes, I have used  



AN525 screws and AN970-3 washers with the goo  on.

Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org

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