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Problem after ground run
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mhilderbrand



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 5:24 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

Today during another ground run to adjust the aerocarb (on the Jab3300A) my father and I noticed a rattling sound. After turning the prop over by hand I noticed a "clonk" sound during compression of the #6 cylinder. Looks like there will be NO first flight anytime soon Sad

I am scared that maybe the # 6 overheated. Even though I kill the engine when the CHT gets close to max, they still seem to creep up past max - delayed response. I am hoping a brief period over 356 F would not cause major damage. Also to note: there is some spotted areas of "crumpling" of the cylinder coating (kind of like painting over an area contaminated by another chemical).

I am debating WHAT the heck to do? Should I tear this down myself or send it back to TN for repairs. Any thought? Here is a link to a Youtube video I made while out there

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22z4HvFkfbc


Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com
 

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Peter H



Joined: 20 Mar 2007
Posts: 197

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:14 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Michael,
I had an incidence of a dropped valve during a very short run at over T. The valve insert was hammered into the cylinder. Luckily there is plenty of space above the top of the piston. It is an easy job to remove the head but first have a look at the tappets to see if there is excess clearance on #6.
Peter

From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Hilderbrand
Sent: Saturday, 24 October 2009 11:23 AM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Problem after ground run


Hi everyone,



Today during another ground run to adjust the aerocarb (on the Jab3300A) my father and I noticed a rattling sound. After turning the prop over by hand I noticed a "clonk" sound during compression of the #6 cylinder. Looks like there will be NO first flight anytime soon Sad



I am scared that maybe the # 6 overheated. Even though I kill the engine when the CHT gets close to max, they still seem to creep up past max - delayed response. I am hoping a brief period over 356 F would not cause major damage. Also to note: there is some spotted areas of "crumpling" of the cylinder coating (kind of like painting over an area contaminated by another chemical).



I am debating WHAT the heck to do? Should I tear this down myself or send it back to TN for repairs. Any thought? Here is a link to a Youtube video I made while out there



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22z4HvFkfbc




Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com




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mhilderbrand



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:34 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

I was wondering how "easy" it would be to remove a jug, or just the head. My father was thinking maybe a circlip, valve, or messed up ring being the culprit (?).  

I plan on calling Pete Monday.


Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com


From: Peter Harris <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 9:13:58 PM
Subject: RE: Problem after ground run


Michael,
I had an incidence of a dropped valve during a very short run at over T. The valve insert was hammered into the cylinder. Luckily there is plenty of space above the top of the piston. It is an easy job to remove the head but first have a look at the tappets to see if there is excess clearance on #6.
Peter

From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Hilderbrand
Sent: Saturday, 24 October 2009 11:23 AM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Problem after ground run


Hi everyone,



Today during another ground run to adjust the aerocarb (on the Jab3300A) my father and I noticed a rattling sound. After turning the prop over by hand I noticed a "clonk" sound during compression of the #6 cylinder. Looks like there will be NO first flight anytime soon Sad



I am scared that maybe the # 6 overheated. Even though I kill the engine when the CHT gets close to max, they still seem to creep up past max - delayed response. I am hoping a brief period over 356 F would not cause major damage. Also to note: there is some spotted areas of "crumpling" of the cylinder coating (kind of like painting over an area contaminated by another chemical).



I am debating WHAT the heck to do? Should I tear this down myself or send it back to TN for repairs. Any thought?  Here is a link to a Youtube video I made while out there



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22z4HvFkfbc




Michael Hilderbrand
Derby , Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com




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No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 270.14.20/2444 - Release Date: 10/23/09 14:09:00
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wypaul



Joined: 08 Jun 2007
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 3:36 am    Post subject: Re: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

It is an easy job to pull the head but check the rocker arm first, that will tell you if it is the valve set as Peter and I suspect.

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Kayberg(at)AOL.COM
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 5:35 am    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Michael, the noise you hear is a valve sticking. It is hanging up momentarily and then snaping down. I have seen it happen before.

Talk to Pete or someone at Shelbyville, but I suspect you may have some fuel contamination issues.

It is not an expensive problem.

Doug Koenigsberg


In a message dated 10/23/2009 11:34:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, m_hilderbrand(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
Quote:
I was wondering how "easy" it would be to remove a jug, or just the head. My father was thinking maybe a circlip, valve, or messed up ring being the culprit (?).

I plan on calling Pete Monday.


Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com



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dons701



Joined: 22 May 2009
Posts: 80
Location: Hershey, PA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
Thanks, Don Burkholder


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:09 am    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Mike,
Pull the valve cover and watch the valves and springs as you rotate the engine.you should not have clearance between the valve and rocker arm.Sounds like a valve sticking.
G.Aman jabiru 2200A





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Kayberg(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:35 am    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

In a message dated 10/24/2009 11:36:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET writes:
Quote:

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
Thanks, Don Burkholder





Use of autofuel with ethanol prompted some problems. There was some kind of unknown crud that showed up as a yellow gunk which seemed to gum up the valves and left deposits in the cylinders. It was bad enough that the lifters stuck and the valves bent. There was no carbon buildup.

When the engine is cold, at least at first, the lifters dont stick and the engine will run fine. But when it is warm or hot, you can get the momentary sticking like you can hear on the video.

I would suggest checking the fuel by removing and dumping the Bing bowl in a clear glass jar, running the fuel pump and letting the fuel in the lines run into another clear jar for a pint or so and then checking your filter (I would replace it, they are cheap). If you have a gascolater, then dump it as well. Let the jars set overnite and see what ends up in the bottom.

It is possible to run really rich and get lifter sticking as well....at least I would think so. I dont know about that.

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the valves. Then you would know for sure what the substance is.

If you are in the early stages of using the engine, I hope you are checking the CHTs carefully.

You should take a good look at the fuel before calling Shelbyville.

Doug
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Kayberg(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:50 am    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Sorry, all, I thought Don was the guy with the problem...but Hilderbrand is in Kansas with the sticking valve.

Please take that into account.

doug koenigsberg


In a message dated 10/24/2009 3:36:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Kayberg(at)aol.com writes:
[quote] In a message dated 10/24/2009 11:36:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET writes:
Quote:

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
Thanks, Don Burkholder





Use of autofuel with ethanol prompted some problems.   There was some kind of unknown crud that showed up as a yellow gunk which seemed to gum up the valves and left deposits in the cylinders.   It was bad enough that the lifters stuck and the valves bent. There was no carbon buildup.

When the engine is cold, at least at first, the lifters dont stick and the engine will run fine. But when it is warm or hot, you can get the momentary sticking like you can hear on the video.

I would suggest checking the fuel by removing and dumping the Bing bowl in a clear glass jar, running the fuel pump and letting the fuel in the lines run into another clear jar for a pint or so and then checking your filter (I would replace it, they are cheap). If you have a gascolater, then dump it as well. Let the jars set overnite and see what ends up in the bottom.

It is possible to run really rich and get lifter sticking as well...at least I would think so. I dont know about that.

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the valves.   Then you would know for sure what the substance is.

If you are in the early stages of using the engine, I hope you are checking the CHTs carefully.

You should take a good look at the fuel before calling Shelbyville.

Doug
[quote][b] ==================================== BLOCKQUOTE>


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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:08 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

You don't even need a valve spring compressor the *remove* the
springs (for installing, you do). Lay the head onto a wadded-up shop
rag. Using a deep socket that is as large around as the outside
diameter of the spring retainer, hold the socket down against the
spring retainer with the "nut" end of the socket against the
retainer, and (with a hammer) whack the "drive" end of the socket
against the retainer. Best to hold the socket with a rag wrapped
around your hand. This will drive the retainer downward, and the
keepers will fall out of their usual position which is wedged against
the valve by the retainer. It takes more time to explain this
procedure than to actually do it. You cannot reinstall them this way,
but it will allow you to remove them and get to the heart of the
matter....inspection. With care, they can be reinstalled with a c-
clamp and a short length of PVC pipe with a notch cut in one side.
The notch is so you can reinsert the keepers into the spring
retainer. This is a much trickier job than the removal, by far.

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 802 hrs
Countdown to 1000 hrs--198 to go
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Oct 24, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Kayberg(at)aol.com wrote:
Quote:

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a
valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the
valves. Then you would know for sure what the substance is.
Doug



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N369LM
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rickofudall



Joined: 19 Sep 2009
Posts: 1392
Location: Udall, KS, USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:53 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Mike, Should you need a valve spring compressor, I have one you're welcome to use. If you need to do any dimensional inspection of the head I have a pretty good array of tools and a small granite slab, too.

Rick Girard
just down the road in Udall

On Sat, Oct 24, 2009 at 5:08 PM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net (lynnmatt(at)jps.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net (lynnmatt(at)jps.net)>

You don't even need a valve spring compressor the *remove* the springs (for installing, you do). Lay the head onto a wadded-up shop rag. Using a deep socket that is as large around as the outside diameter of the spring retainer, hold the socket down against the spring retainer with the "nut" end of the socket against the retainer, and (with a hammer) whack the "drive" end of the socket against the retainer. Best to hold the socket with a rag wrapped around your hand. This will drive the retainer downward, and the keepers will fall out of their usual position which is wedged against the valve by the retainer. It takes more time to explain this procedure than to actually do it. You cannot reinstall them this way, but it will allow you to remove them and get to the heart of the matter....inspection. With care, they can be reinstalled with a c-clamp and a short length of PVC pipe with a notch cut in one side. The notch is so you can reinsert the keepers into the spring retainer. This is a much trickier job than the removal, by far.

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 802 hrs
Countdown to 1000 hrs--198 to go
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)


On Oct 24, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Kayberg(at)aol.com (Kayberg(at)aol.com) wrote:
Quote:

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the valves.   Then you would know for sure what the substance is.
Doug


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:56 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Gentlemen
Since this sight is new to me I have a question. Who is Pete at Shelbyville and how would I get in touch if necessary?

BOB

--- On Sat, 10/24/09, Kayberg(at)aol.com <Kayberg(at)aol.com> wrote:

Quote:

From: Kayberg(at)aol.com <Kayberg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Problem after ground run
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009, 3:46 PM

Sorry, all, I thought Don was the guy with the problem...but Hilderbrand is in Kansas with the sticking valve.

Please take that into account.

doug koenigsberg


In a message dated 10/24/2009 3:36:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Kayberg(at)aol.com writes:
Quote:
In a message dated 10/24/2009 11:36:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET writes:
Quote:

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
Thanks, Don Burkholder





Use of autofuel with ethanol prompted some problems. There was some kind of unknown crud that showed up as a yellow gunk which seemed to gum up the valves and left deposits in the cylinders. It was bad enough that the lifters stuck and the valves bent. There was no carbon buildup.

When the engine is cold, at least at first, the lifters dont stick and the engine will run fine. But when it is warm or hot, you can get the momentary sticking like you can hear on the video.

I would suggest checking the fuel by removing and dumping the Bing bowl in a clear glass jar, running the fuel pump and letting the fuel in the lines run into another clear jar for a pint or so and then checking your filter (I would replace it, they are cheap). If you have a gascolater, then dump it as well. Let the jars set overnite and see what ends up in the bottom.

It is possible to run really rich and get lifter sticking as well....at least I would think so. I dont know about that.

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the valves. Then you would know for sure what the substance is.

If you are in the early stages of using the engine, I hope you are checking the CHTs carefully.

You should take a good look at the fuel before calling Shelbyville.

Doug
Quote:


BLOCKQUOTE>



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ist" target=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
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mhilderbrand



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 5:03 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

After taking the valve covers off it does not look like a rocker & pushrod slip. The knocking sound is REALLY prominent about 3" out from the crankcase on the cylinder (using the old screwdriver to the ear trick). My father has a hard time believing a sticking valve would be heard so close to the crankcase. I am NOT real mechanical so I refer often to my father's suggestion and ideas. He thinks the sound is probably from a messed up piston ring - at least, that is his latest thoughts.
 
Another question I have: IF this requires replacing the piston and honing the cylinder, where would you guys take it? Is this engine easy enough to disassemble that a seasoned veteran mechanic should be able to perform such a task? Maybe an AP? And, can this task be performed without taking the engine off the mount? The local airport owner was telling me that AP's take jugs off certificated engines independently all the time.... Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com


From: "Kayberg(at)aol.com" <Kayberg(at)aol.com>
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 2:46:02 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Problem after ground run

Sorry, all, I thought Don was the guy with the problem...but Hilderbrand is in Kansas with the sticking valve.

Please take that into account.
 
doug koenigsberg


In a message dated 10/24/2009 3:36:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Kayberg(at)aol.com writes:
Quote:
In a message dated 10/24/2009 11:36:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET writes:
Quote:

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
Thanks, Don Burkholder





Use of autofuel with ethanol prompted some problems. There was some kind of unknown crud that showed up as a yellow gunk which seemed to gum up the valves and left deposits in the cylinders. It was bad enough that the lifters stuck and the valves bent. There was no carbon buildup.

When the engine is cold, at least at first, the lifters dont stick and the engine will run fine. But when it is warm or hot, you can get the momentary sticking like you can hear on the video.

I would suggest checking the fuel by removing and dumping the Bing bowl in a clear glass jar, running the fuel pump and letting the fuel in the lines run into another clear jar for a pint or so and then checking your filter (I would replace it, they are cheap).   If you have a gascolater, then dump it as well. Let the jars set overnite and see what ends up in the bottom.

It is possible to run really rich and get lifter sticking as well....at least I would think so. I dont know about that.

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the valves. Then you would know for sure what the substance is.

If you are in the early stages of using the engine, I hope you are checking the CHTs carefully.

You should take a good look at the fuel before calling Shelbyville.

Doug
Quote:
=========== BLOCKQUOTE>



Quote:
[b]
Quote:
Quote:

[quote][b]


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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 6:38 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

I'd keep it right at home and bring a "seasoned mechanic" over for
supper and a pretty simple job....unless it's under warranty, and
that would complicate things.

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 802 hrs
Countdown to 1000 hrs--198 to go
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Oct 24, 2009, at 9:00 PM, Michael Hilderbrand wrote:

Quote:
After taking the valve covers off it does not look like a rocker &
pushrod slip. The knocking sound is REALLY prominent about 3" out
from the crankcase on the cylinder (using the old screwdriver to
the ear trick). My father has a hard time believing a sticking
valve would be heard so close to the crankcase. I am NOT real
mechanical so I refer often to my father's suggestion and ideas. He
thinks the sound is probably from a messed up piston ring - at
least, that is his latest thoughts.

Another question I have: IF this requires replacing the piston and
honing the cylinder, where would you guys take it? Is this engine
easy enough to disassemble that a seasoned veteran mechanic should
be able to perform such a task? Maybe an AP? And, can this task be
performed without taking the engine off the mount? The local
airport owner was telling me that AP's take jugs off certificated
engines independently all the time.... Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com
From: "Kayberg(at)aol.com" <Kayberg(at)aol.com>
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 2:46:02 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Problem after ground run

Sorry, all, I thought Don was the guy with the problem...but
Hilderbrand is in Kansas with the sticking valve.

Please take that into account.

doug koenigsberg
In a message dated 10/24/2009 3:36:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Kayberg(at)aol.com writes:
In a message dated 10/24/2009 11:36:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET writes:

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to
stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking
lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
Thanks, Don Burkholder

Use of autofuel with ethanol prompted some problems. There was
some kind of unknown crud that showed up as a yellow gunk which
seemed to gum up the valves and left deposits in the cylinders.
It was bad enough that the lifters stuck and the valves bent.
There was no carbon buildup.

When the engine is cold, at least at first, the lifters dont stick
and the engine will run fine. But when it is warm or hot, you can
get the momentary sticking like you can hear on the video.

I would suggest checking the fuel by removing and dumping the Bing
bowl in a clear glass jar, running the fuel pump and letting the
fuel in the lines run into another clear jar for a pint or so and
then checking your filter (I would replace it, they are cheap).
If you have a gascolater, then dump it as well. Let the jars set
overnite and see what ends up in the bottom.

It is possible to run really rich and get lifter sticking as
well....at least I would think so. I dont know about that.

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a
valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the
valves. Then you would know for sure what the substance is.

If you are in the early stages of using the engine, I hope you are
checking the CHTs carefully.

You should take a good look at the fuel before calling Shelbyville.

Doug
=========== BLOCKQUOTE>

============================================================ _-
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contribution_-
============================================================



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rickofudall



Joined: 19 Sep 2009
Posts: 1392
Location: Udall, KS, USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 7:32 pm    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Mike, Well the 3 inch dimension corresponds to the engines 74 mm stroke, but wouldn't a ring problem that makes a sound at the bottom of the stoke also make one at the top when the piston reverses direction again? When you say "not look like a rocker & pushrod slip" does that mean you've tested for rocker arm pushrod clearance all the way through the full cycle of the engine? Have you drained the oil and run a magnet through it looking for iron bits? Taken the oil filter off and pulled it apart to look for debris caught in the filter element? What kind of noise are you getting when you rock the crank shaft back and forth at the "clunk" point? Do you know anyone who has a bore scope to look at the cylinder walls for evidence of damage and the top of the piston to see if there are marks from the valve hitting the piston? Was #6 the only head that exceeded CHT limits?
I've got a regular medical stethoscope if you want to have a bit better listen to the sounds the engine is making.


Rick Girard

On Sat, Oct 24, 2009 at 8:00 PM, Michael Hilderbrand <m_hilderbrand(at)sbcglobal.net (m_hilderbrand(at)sbcglobal.net)> wrote:
[quote]
After taking the valve covers off it does not look like a rocker & pushrod slip. The knocking sound is REALLY prominent about 3" out from the crankcase on the cylinder (using the old screwdriver to the ear trick). My father has a hard time believing a sticking valve would be heard so close to the crankcase.  I am NOT real mechanical so I refer often to my father's suggestion and ideas. He thinks the sound is probably from a messed up piston ring - at least, that is his latest thoughts.
 
Another question I have:  IF this requires replacing the piston and honing the cylinder, where would you guys take it?  Is this engine easy enough to disassemble that a seasoned veteran mechanic should be able to perform such a task? Maybe an AP?  And, can this task be performed without taking the engine off the mount?   The local airport owner was telling me that AP's take jugs off certificated engines independently all the time....   Any suggestions?  
 
Thanks!
 
Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com


From: "Kayberg(at)aol.com (Kayberg(at)aol.com)" <Kayberg(at)aol.com (Kayberg(at)aol.com)>
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com (jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 2:46:02 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Problem after ground run

Sorry, all,  I thought Don was the guy with the problem...but Hilderbrand is in Kansas with the sticking valve.
 
Please take that into account.
 
doug koenigsberg
 
 
In a message dated 10/24/2009 3:36:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Kayberg(at)aol.com (Kayberg(at)aol.com) writes:
Quote:
In a message dated 10/24/2009 11:36:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET (burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET) writes:
Quote:

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
    Thanks, Don Burkholder



 
 
Use of autofuel with ethanol prompted some problems.   There was some kind of unknown crud that showed up as a yellow gunk which seemed to gum up the valves and left deposits in the cylinders.   It was bad enough that the lifters stuck and the valves bent.  There was no carbon buildup.
 
When the engine is cold, at least at first, the lifters dont stick and the engine will run fine.  But when it is warm or hot, you can get the momentary sticking like you can hear on the video.  
 
I would suggest checking the fuel by removing and dumping the Bing bowl in a clear glass jar, running the fuel pump and letting the fuel in the lines run into another clear jar for a pint or so and then checking your filter (I would replace it, they are cheap).   If you have a gascolater, then dump it as well.    Let the jars set overnite and see what ends up in the bottom.
 
It is possible to run really rich and get lifter sticking as well....at least I would think so.  I dont know about that.
 
The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the valves.   Then you would know for sure what the substance is.
 
If you are in the early stages of using the engine,  I hope you are checking the CHTs carefully.  
 
You should take a good look at the fuel before calling Shelbyville.
 
Doug
Quote:
=========== BLOCKQUOTE>


 
Quote:


ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



[b]


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Clive J



Joined: 03 Nov 2007
Posts: 340
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:49 am    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

I took a cylinder off my Jab myself, not rocket science and no more complicated than a car strip down or a motorcycle cylinder. I just talked it though with a Jab mechanic to get the tips as to what made it easy. Get your seasoned mechanic to have a chat with a Jab mechanic, will save a little time.

It takes very little metal loss to give the clonk noise, I was surprised with what was found after the oil problem on my 3300. The amount of metal missing from the piston was very small but the noise was very loud.

For me 'ticking' is valves and clonking is pistons.

Good luck with the repairs, Regards, Clive

From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Hilderbrand
Sent: 25 October 2009 01:01
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: Problem after ground run


After taking the valve covers off it does not look like a rocker & pushrod slip. The knocking sound is REALLY prominent about 3" out from the crankcase on the cylinder (using the old screwdriver to the ear trick). My father has a hard time believing a sticking valve would be heard so close to the crankcase. I am NOT real mechanical so I refer often to my father's suggestion and ideas. He thinks the sound is probably from a messed up piston ring - at least, that is his latest thoughts.

Another question I have: IF this requires replacing the piston and honing the cylinder, where would you guys take it? Is this engine easy enough to disassemble that a seasoned veteran mechanic should be able to perform such a task? Maybe an AP? And, can this task be performed without taking the engine off the mount? The local airport owner was telling me that AP's take jugs off certificated engines independently all the time.... Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com


From: "Kayberg(at)aol.com" <Kayberg(at)aol.com>
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 2:46:02 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Problem after ground run

Sorry, all, I thought Don was the guy with the problem...but Hilderbrand is in Kansas with the sticking valve.

Please take that into account.

doug koenigsberg


In a message dated 10/24/2009 3:36:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Kayberg(at)aol.com writes:
Quote:
In a message dated 10/24/2009 11:36:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, burdon1(at)COMCAST.NET writes:
Quote:

Hi Doug, are you talking about carbon buildup causing the lifter to stick ? What typically has been seen as the cause of sticking lifters when found on 2200 and 3300's ? Anyone ?
Thanks, Don Burkholder





Use of autofuel with ethanol prompted some problems. There was some kind of unknown crud that showed up as a yellow gunk which seemed to gum up the valves and left deposits in the cylinders. It was bad enough that the lifters stuck and the valves bent. There was no carbon buildup.

When the engine is cold, at least at first, the lifters dont stick and the engine will run fine. But when it is warm or hot, you can get the momentary sticking like you can hear on the video.

I would suggest checking the fuel by removing and dumping the Bing bowl in a clear glass jar, running the fuel pump and letting the fuel in the lines run into another clear jar for a pint or so and then checking your filter (I would replace it, they are cheap). If you have a gascolater, then dump it as well. Let the jars set overnite and see what ends up in the bottom.

It is possible to run really rich and get lifter sticking as well....at least I would think so. I dont know about that.

The heads do come off quite easily and if you have access to a valve spring compressor of some sort, it is easy to remove the valves. Then you would know for sure what the substance is.

If you are in the early stages of using the engine, I hope you are checking the CHTs carefully.

You should take a good look at the fuel before calling Shelbyville.

Doug
Quote:
=========== BLOCKQUOTE>



Quote:
[b] ========================
[/b]
Quote:
Quote:

Quote:


href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[/b]
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wypaul



Joined: 08 Jun 2007
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 5:29 am    Post subject: Re: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

Michael,

It is a simple job but it does require a special wrench to torq up the cylinder which you can buy from Proto for 5 or so bucks. Talk to Pete first, sounds like it may be warranty work.


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wypaul



Joined: 08 Jun 2007
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 6:50 am    Post subject: Re: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

The torque adaptor is Proto J 5114 or if you want to pay more Snap On FRDH 141 that is used to torque the cylinder base nut.

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Kayberg(at)aol.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:44 am    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

In a message dated 10/24/2009 6:57:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bw12345(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
Quote:
Gentlemen
Since this sight is new to me I have a question. Who is Pete at Shelbyville and how would I get in touch if necessary?

BOB



Sorry, Pete Krotje is the main man at US Jabiru and a personal friend. They are located in Shelbyville, Tennessee, USA. They are the largest seller of Jabiru products....possibly in the world.

You would contact him as below:

Sales Info: 1-800-JABIRU1 (1-800-522-4781)
Service & Support: 931-680-2800 | Fax: 931-680-1817 | info(at)usjabiru.com (info(at)usjabiru.com)

Hope that helps.

Doug Koenigsberg
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:56 am    Post subject: Problem after ground run Reply with quote

First, I would talk to the US Jabiru guys. Call them tomorrow.

Second, I would do what they suggest, not your local A & P. The engine is a little jewel, but it is not a Lycoming or a Continental. You could easily UPS them the parts if necessary.

Very unlikely it is a piston ring. They dont make that noise when they break!

You wont have to take the engine off the mount to fix it.

Doug


In a message dated 10/24/2009 9:03:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, m_hilderbrand(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
Quote:
After taking the valve covers off it does not look like a rocker & pushrod slip. The knocking sound is REALLY prominent about 3" out from the crankcase on the cylinder (using the old screwdriver to the ear trick). My father has a hard time believing a sticking valve would be heard so close to the crankcase. I am NOT real mechanical so I refer often to my father's suggestion and ideas. He thinks the sound is probably from a messed up piston ring - at least, that is his latest thoughts.

Another question I have: IF this requires replacing the piston and honing the cylinder, where would you guys take it?  Is this engine easy enough to disassemble that a seasoned veteran mechanic should be able to perform such a task? Maybe an AP? And, can this task be performed without taking the engine off the mount? The local airport owner was telling me that AP's take jugs off certificated engines independently all the time.... Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com



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