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76papa(at)dishmail.net
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Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:05 am Post subject: electrics

Another question:  If I decide to go to 28VDC for whatever reason. my  

20A switches would then be 10A switches. Right?



Al

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galinhdz(at)gmail.com
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Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:54 am Post subject: electrics

Maybe.

  

 Switches are actually rated based on the power (Watts) they can handle. This is governed by Ohms Law which states that Voltage * Amps = Watts. 12V * 20A = 240W. At 28V the same switch can only handle 8.57A (240W / 28V = 8.57A). Check the switch you want to use at what voltage and amps it is rated for. If it is rated for 20A at 14V then you are basically correct. If rated for 20A at 28V then you still have a 20A switch.

    

 Also, switches are designed with a maximum voltage. Above that the internal "dielectric" may short out.

  

 Galin

 N819PR

 On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 6:58 AM, Alfred Rosa <76papa(at)dishmail.net (76papa(at)dishmail.net)> wrote:

 [quote]--> KIS-List message posted by: Alfred Rosa <76papa(at)dishmail.net (76papa(at)dishmail.net)>

  

Another question:  If I decide to go to 28VDC for whatever reason. myur Lists This Month --

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Flyinisfun(at)aol.com
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Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:18 pm Post subject: electrics

I've been watching your communication and thought I would add a thought or  two.  You might consider putting in one switch handle type breaker that  feeds what you would think of as a avionics bus.  In this case you can kill  all radios with one switch handle.  Course if you do this kind of breakdown  you would feed from the master breaker for the avionics to smaller size breakers  to feed the com radio, transponder, auto pilot or any units that you want off  when you crank the engine.  Once the engine starts all you have to do is  move one breaker handle and power is fed to all these units.  Also in that  case you would go from each breaker directly to the item without a switch of any  sort in between.  The switch on the device will be available if you need to  shut that particular unit off.  I have a transponder that has a  recommendation to be fused at 4 amps.  The com is recommended to be fused  at 3 amps, etc.  You can line up three or four rows of pop out fuses on the  upper right panel area and feed them for what ever use from master switched  breakers located in the lower area of the panel just to the right of the engine  controls.  Usually there is a utility bus that feeds power to rows of  proper size breakers as well as the avionics master.  The Utility of course  is fed from a master relay located at the battery, controlled by a red handled  rocker switch located around the starter switches.  Lighting circuits etc  are fed off the utility bus through appreciate sized breakers as well as the  starter relay.  Fuel gages can come off either, however it is easier to  have them activated with the utility bus, that way you don't have to flip more  breakers and switches to read your tanks.  "Nothing should go to a device  without first going through a fuse of some sort.  Like I said I used the  little pop-out fuses and wound up with about 10 of them.  Use the regular  switches for controlling landing lights, cabin lights, pitot hear etc. that  don't have their own built in switch controls.

  

     Hope this makes sense,

          Jesse 

  [quote][b]

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76papa(at)dishmail.net
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Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:44 pm Post subject: electrics

Yep, makes a lot of sense and is exactly what I had in mind to do.  Thanks.



Al



On Nov 1, 2009, at 6:59 PM, Flyinisfun(at)aol.com (Flyinisfun(at)aol.com) wrote:

[quote]  I've been watching your communication and thought I would add a thought or two.  You might consider putting in one switch handle type breaker that feeds what you would think of as a avionics bus.  In this case you can kill all radios with one switch handle.  Course if you do this kind of breakdown you would feed from the master breaker for the avionics to smaller size breakers to feed the com radio, transponder, auto pilot or any units that you want off when you crank the engine.  Once the engine starts all you have to do is move one breaker handle and power is fed to all these units.  Also in that case you would go from each breaker directly to the item without a switch of any sort in between.  The switch on the device will be available if you need to shut that particular unit off.  I have a transponder that has a recommendation to be fused at 4 amps.  The com is recommended to be fused at 3 amps, etc.  You can line up three or four rows of pop out fuses on the upper right panel area and feed them for what ever use from master switched breakers located in the lower area of the panel just to the right of the engine controls.  Usually there is a utility bus that feeds power to rows of proper size breakers as well as the avionics master.  The Utility of course is fed from a master relay located at the battery, controlled by a red handled rocker switch located around the starter switches.  Lighting circuits etc are fed off the utility bus through appreciate sized breakers as well as the starter relay.  Fuel gages can come off either, however it is easier to have them activated with the utility bus, that way you don't have to flip more breakers and switches to read your tanks.  "Nothing should go to a device without first going through a fuse of some sort.  Like I said I used the little pop-out fuses and wound up with about 10 of them.  Use the regular switches for controlling landing lights, cabin lights, pitot hear etc. that don't have their own built in switch controls.

  

     Hope this makes sense,

         Jesse 

 [b]

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galinhdz(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:13 pm Post subject: electrics

If you go with fuses, look into the ones that light up when they blow. These have a small LED built in so it makes it very easy to see and change a blown fuse. I have these in my airplane and they work great. I had one fuse blow in flight, still can't figure out why, and I knew immediately which one it was.

    

 There are several places to buy them but I used:

  

 http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M37/140/350/100/1/ATO/ATC%20Fuses-Light%20When%20Blown/Blade%20Fuses%20And%20Accessories/Circuit%20Protection/

    

 Galin

 N819PR

 On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 5:59 PM, <Flyinisfun(at)aol.com (Flyinisfun(at)aol.com)> wrote:

 [quote]  I've been watching your communication and thought I would add a thought or two.  You might consider putting in one switch handle type breaker that feeds what you would think of as a avionics bus.  In this case you can kill all radios with one switch handle.  Course if you do this kind of breakdown you would feed from the master breaker for the avionics to smaller size breakers to feed the com radio, transponder, auto pilot or any units that you want off when you crank the engine.  Once the engine starts all you have to do is move one breaker handle and power is fed to all these units.  Also in that case you would go from each breaker directly to the item without a switch of any sort in between.  The switch on the device will be available if you need to shut that particular unit off.  I have a transponder that has a recommendation to be fused at 4 amps.  The com is recommended to be fused at 3 amps, etc.  You can line up three or four rows of pop out fuses on the upper right panel area and feed them for what ever use from master switched breakers located in the lower area of the panel just to the right of the engine controls.  Usually there is a utility bus that feeds power to rows of proper size breakers as well as the avionics master.  The Utility of course is fed from a master relay located at the battery, controlled by a red handled rocker switch located around the starter switches.  Lighting circuits etc are fed off the utility bus through appreciate sized breakers as well as the starter relay.  Fuel gages can come off either, however it is easier to have them activated with the utility bus, that way you don't have to flip more breakers and switches to read your tanks.  "Nothing should go to a device without first going through a fuse of some sort.  Like I said I used the little pop-out fuses and wound up with about 10 of them.  Use the regular switches for controlling landing lights, cabin lights, pitot hear etc. that don't have their own built in switch controls.

    

     Hope this makes sense,

         Jesse 

  	  Quote: 	
		  



"_blank">www.aeroelectric.com

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et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List

ttp://forums.matronics.com



	




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76papa(at)dishmail.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:43 pm Post subject: electrics

On Nov 1, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Galin Hernandez wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  If you go with fuses, look into the ones that light up when they blow. These have a small LED built in so it makes it very easy to see and change a blown fuse. I have these in my airplane and they work great. I had one fuse blow in flight, still can't figure out why, and I knew immediately which one it was.

  

 There are several places to buy them but I used:

  

 http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M37/140/350/100/1/ATO/ATC%20Fuses-Light%20When%20Blown/Blade%20Fuses%20And%20Accessories/Circuit%20Protection/

  

 Galin

 N

	




Several years ago I bought the little pop-out breakers (didn't have lighted ones then).  If the new ones fit the same holes I may go that way.  Also bought Honeywell rocker switches (very expensive) and had Aircraft Engravers engrave custom lettering (TAXI LIGHTS, ETC.).   Above each rocker switch on my panel I installed a tiny green LED that comes on when the switch is passing current.  Also the switches are lighted when the panel lights are on.

Al

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