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Door strut attach fitting

 
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cjhukill(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:01 am    Post subject: Door strut attach fitting Reply with quote

I had completed my installation of the door strut attach fittings to the cabin top. This included welding ears on both sides of the fittings to increase the contact area to the cabin top, and providing two more bolts per fitting. I feel that the amount of force (over 200 lbs) that these struts produce requires more support than the three bolts thru fibre-glass that the stock fitting provides, if this fitting isn't going to become "loose and sloppy" down the road. I had also built up pads under the fittings with epoxy/ cabosil to provide as much contact area as possible with the top. The plans say to position the fittings fore and aft, centered between the hinge bolts and adjust the inboard/outboard position to a "best fit". Unfortunately the step to check the length of the strut isn't done until later. Well my "best fit" position turns out to be too far outboard and the struts would bottom out before the door is fully closed.(thanks to the poster that prompted me to check). The plans are clearly incomplete in this procedure, as the "best fit" should be clarified to a "do not exceed" dimension for the outboard reference. I was prompted to check mine, and found the problem before I had permanently mounted the top. The change then would have been much more difficult working upside down, than while the top was on the workbench. Ain't this site great!
Chris Hukill
[quote][b]


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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:03 am    Post subject: Door strut attach fitting Reply with quote

If you had used the 'jig' as called out in the plans. there shouldn't
have been a problem .... it wasn't for me. I did, however, have to
re-drill one of the strut attach points on the door to get both doors to
open to the same point .... looking symmetrical from the front.
Linn

Chris Hukill wrote:
Quote:
I had completed my installation of the door strut attach fittings to the
cabin top. This included welding ears on both sides of the fittings to
increase the contact area to the cabin top, and providing two more bolts
per fitting. I feel that the amount of force (over 200 lbs) that these
struts produce requires more support than the three bolts thru
fibre-glass that the stock fitting provides, if this fitting isn't going
to become "loose and sloppy" down the road. I had also built up pads
under the fittings with epoxy/ cabosil to provide as much contact area
as possible with the top. The plans say to position the fittings fore
and aft, centered between the hinge bolts and adjust the
inboard/outboard position to a "best fit". Unfortunately the step to
check the length of the strut isn't done until later. Well my "best fit"
position turns out to be too far outboard and the struts would bottom
out before the door is fully closed.(thanks to the poster that prompted
me to check). The plans are clearly incomplete in this procedure, as the
"best fit" should be clarified to a "do not exceed" dimension for the
outboard reference. I was prompted to check mine, and found the problem
before I had permanently mounted the top. The change then would have
been much more difficult working upside down, than while the top was on
the workbench. Ain't this site great!
Chris Hukill

*


*


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bwestfall



Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 131
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Door strut attach fitting Reply with quote

I used the jig and still had a problem in that I wasn't paying much attention to the placement of the strut attach bracket on the canopy. I had them sitting to high above the edge of the canopy thus the door contacted the bracket before closing. The plans are pretty vague in this section. I just sorta moved the bracket around till it "looked best" against the canopy top but in reality you want to place it so that the bracket does not extend very far above/outside the canopy edge. Unfortunately you don't really notice this till after drilling and testing by closing the door. Fortunately I was able to drill new holes in the brackets below the original and cut/smooth a new radius. I sent this to the list w/pictures a while back maybe 6mo to a year ago. It might be in the archives.

-Ben


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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:43 pm    Post subject: Door strut attach fitting Reply with quote

I understand Ben. I found the whole hinge and strut attachment assembly
lacking in info, and prone to 'misalignment' problems. I had to cut
into the cabin top lip to accommodate mounting the strut bracket ....
but now most of the lip is gone to prepare for the McMaster-Carr door seal.
Like you, I bedded the bracket in flox ..... and the hinges too.
Linn
do not archive
bwestfall wrote:
Quote:


I used the jig and still had a problem in that I wasn't paying much
attention to the placement of the strut attach bracket on the canopy.
I had them sitting to high above the edge of the canopy thus the door
contacted the bracket before closing. The plans are pretty vague in
this section. I just sorta moved the bracket around till it "looked
best" against the canopy top but in reality you want to place it so
that the bracket does not extend very far above/outside the canopy
edge. Unfortunately you don't really notice this till after drilling
and testing by closing the door. Fortunately I was able to drill new
holes in the brackets below the original and cut/smooth a new radius.
I sent this to the list w/pictures a while back maybe 6mo to a year
ago. It might be in the archives.

-Ben




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 70820#270820













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Eric_Kallio



Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 149
Location: Baton Rouge, LA

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Door strut attach fitting Reply with quote

I posted my issue a few days ago and got some responses to check the basics, didn't address my problem. Here is what played out for me.

I had the door brackets installed within 1/4" of the edge of the window cut out. I had the canopy bracket installed as far inboard as I could get it. Using the spacer dimensions in the plans did not work for me. I made mine 7.7". My compressed struts measured 7.82". When I installed the first strut the door wouldn't close all the way.

How I fixed mine: I measured the length of the compressed strut and made a new spacer the same length plus a tenth of an inch for good measure. I filled in and glassed over my initial holes from the door brackets and reinstalled the door brackets at the far edge by the window. Then with the door closed, and the spacer attached to the door I marked out new holes on the canopy bracket. Drilled the new holes, trimmed the 'ears' off with the original holes in it...beautiful. Took me 20 minutes to do the second door this way. Don't have pics, but is fairly straight forward. Call me at 225-802-4827 if I can offer any more info about how or why I did it this way.

Eric Kallio
Finishing canopy and door fiberglass


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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:02 pm    Post subject: Door strut attach fitting Reply with quote

While we're on the strut attach fitting ..... I cut a slot towards the
mounting hole on the end next to the strut attach holes. I plan on
floxing over the three screws, and ground flats on either side of the
head to prevent them turning when putting the nuts on. This way I can
remove the cabin top strut fitting if I ever need to.
Linn


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