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rv10rob(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:35 am Post subject: Door fit (another thread!) |
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I'm doing the initial fitting of my first door. It actually fits reasonably well; however, the forward edge at the top of the door sits 2-3 32nds proud of the cabin cover surface between the door edge and the forward latch. The door isn't touching the canopy there; rather, the curve of the door isn't sharp enough. Attaching the hinges should pull it down somewhat, but definitely won't be flush.
For you grizzled door veterans, is this something I should be able to fix by a combination of sanding the door surface and building up the canopy, or would that end up looking bad? I could slide the door down a little, but that makes the lower sides look bad.
BTW, thanks to Les for the heads up on avoiding gaps when bonding the halves together. I used a ton of epoxy/flox around where the final cut would be and don't have any gaps.
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
[quote][b]
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:06 am Post subject: Re: Door fit (another thread!) |
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Hey Rob,
A picture would help understand your issue, but I would hold off on sanding the door as a last resort -- you don't want that to be too thin.
Without seeing it and if I understand you correctly, a 32nd or two can be pulled down by the hinge, and even fine tuned by sanding the hinge seat. If the hinge installs with no binding, etc. and you still need perfect flush, I'd recommend building up the cabin surface with epoxy/flox, then sanding that to the door surface, rather than sanding the door. Just make sure you feather out a wide enough area so that it disappears when you prime later.
You might want to check out the archives here for Deems way of doing his door gap rather than the Van's 45 degree approach. That would also help smooth out any level differences.
Also, many are temporarily adding the weather strip of your choice before final tuning of your flush fit, since it can change. Ours didn't, but that's a lot of obsessive futzing around only to have to change it later!
Later, - Lew
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jeff(at)westcottpress.com
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| Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:23 am Post subject: Door fit (another thread!) |
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You can build up the canopy with some structural epoxy in that spot.
On Nov 16, 2009, at 9:34 AM, Rob Kochman wrote:
[quote]I'm doing the initial fitting of my first door. It actually fits reasonably well; however, the forward edge at the top of the door sits 2-3 32nds proud of the cabin cover surface between the door edge and the forward latch. The door isn't touching the canopy there; rather, the curve of the door isn't sharp enough. Attaching the hinges should pull it down somewhat, but definitely won't be flush.
For you grizzled door veterans, is this something I should be able to fix by a combination of sanding the door surface and building up the canopy, or would that end up looking bad? I could slide the door down a little, but that makes the lower sides look bad.
BTW, thanks to Les for the heads up on avoiding gaps when bonding the halves together. I used a ton of epoxy/flox around where the final cut would be and don't have any gaps.
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 11:13 am Post subject: Door fit (another thread!) |
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Rob
Based on what I did, and others may differ, but I wouldn’t do any levelling, sanding etc until:
- The hinges are on
- The door hardware is installed
- The door seals are on (if you are using the McMaster Carr seals – I can’t speak to the Van’s seals – no experience with them)
After the doors open / close as you want them to, I would then start looking at high/low spots. Until then there are just too many variables that can impact the door geometry. For example, the door pins can “suck” the door in slightly and that may correct part of your problem. Small high / low spots can be easily handled with flox / cabosil or Superfil.
Get the door operating first and then deal with the cosmetics (otherwise you get to do it twice).
Cheers
Les
#40643 – The mains went on today (Yippee)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: November-16-09 10:35 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Door fit (another thread!)
I'm doing the initial fitting of my first door. It actually fits reasonably well; however, the forward edge at the top of the door sits 2-3 32nds proud of the cabin cover surface between the door edge and the forward latch. The door isn't touching the canopy there; rather, the curve of the door isn't sharp enough. Attaching the hinges should pull it down somewhat, but definitely won't be flush.
For you grizzled door veterans, is this something I should be able to fix by a combination of sanding the door surface and building up the canopy, or would that end up looking bad? I could slide the door down a little, but that makes the lower sides look bad.
BTW, thanks to Les for the heads up on avoiding gaps when bonding the halves together. I used a ton of epoxy/flox around where the final cut would be and don't have any gaps.
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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0123456789012345678
[quote][b]
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rv10rob(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 12:02 pm Post subject: Door fit (another thread!) |
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Thanks, guys... my main concern at this point is whether to keep going with mounting the door to the hinges, given this proud spot. I'm sure I'll have to deal with high/low spots, but wasn't sure if 2-3 32nds was too much to deal with with sanding/filling. I suppose worst case I could always fill and re-drill the holes in the door if it doesn't work out.
Thanks again...
-Rob
On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 11:12 AM, Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca (kearney(at)shaw.ca)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Rob
Based on what I did, and others may differ, but I wouldn’t do any levelling, sanding etc until:
- The hinges are on
- The door hardware is installed
- The door seals are on (if you are using the McMaster Carr seals – I can’t speak to the Van’s seals – no experience with them)
After the doors open / close as you want them to, I would then start looking at high/low spots. Until then there are just too many variables that can impact the door geometry. For example, the door pins can “suck” the door in slightly and that may correct part of your problem. Small high / low spots can be easily handled with flox / cabosil or Superfil.
Get the door operating first and then deal with the cosmetics (otherwise you get to do it twice).
Cheers
Les
#40643 – The mains went on today (Yippee)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: November-16-09 10:35 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Door fit (another thread!)
I'm doing the initial fitting of my first door. It actually fits reasonably well; however, the forward edge at the top of the door sits 2-3 32nds proud of the cabin cover surface between the door edge and the forward latch. The door isn't touching the canopy there; rather, the curve of the door isn't sharp enough. Attaching the hinges should pull it down somewhat, but definitely won't be flush.
For you grizzled door veterans, is this something I should be able to fix by a combination of sanding the door surface and building up the canopy, or would that end up looking bad? I could slide the door down a little, but that makes the lower sides look bad.
BTW, thanks to Les for the heads up on avoiding gaps when bonding the halves together. I used a ton of epoxy/flox around where the final cut would be and don't have any gaps.
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
0 12 34 5
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--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
[quote][b]
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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| Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 12:47 pm Post subject: Door fit (another thread!) |
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Rob, when it came time to install the hinges, where it says to use
washers to shim the hinge ..... I used milled fiber as a bed for the
hinges .... tightened just enough to get the doors nearly 'flush'. Did
the same thing with the gas spring mount to the cabin top.
Linn
Rob Kochman wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks, guys... my main concern at this point is whether to keep going
with mounting the door to the hinges, given this proud spot. I'm sure
I'll have to deal with high/low spots, but wasn't sure if 2-3 32nds was
too much to deal with with sanding/filling. I suppose worst case I
could always fill and re-drill the holes in the door if it doesn't work out.
Thanks again...
-Rob
|
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