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additional latch for 10 doors

 
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roxianmike(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Has anyone added an additional latching mechanismat the bottom oftheir doors. As I am finishing my door latches I am considering adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted into thebottom doorframe/fuse)that would move aft (attached to the aft rod) through a slot and provide assurance that the door can not move upward C both to improve fit and for safety against door opening. Any thoughts on this? [quote][b]

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ricksked(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 5:50 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Mike,There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency Rick SkedN246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&TFrom: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors

Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism&nbsp=3Bat the bottom of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors.&nbsp=3B As I am finishing my door latches I am consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted into the= &nbsp=3Bbottom door&nbsp=3Bframe/fuse)&nbsp=3Bthat would move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this? = [quote][b]


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Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 6:12 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Here you go Rick….






G’Day all,

I am a 3 time offender (two RV6’s and now a 10). I have about 1400 hrs on RV’s and 2000hrs TT. Never had an incident or accident till about a year ago when my passenger door flew open on T/O!!! I remembered Van’s advice to fly the plane and did a circuit. The passenger managed to grab the door as I turned downwind and applied rudder – the slip helped close the door.

I sent a very detailed report to Van but no comment or reply. The RV10 is a magnificent A/C but the doors are its Achilles’ heal!

Over the past year I put my thinking cap on and came up with a very simple but highly effective solution. I have passed it on to Ken and Richard but still no reply. Thought I might share the solution with this forum as I believe ALL RV10’s should have a similar device. It can only improve A/C safety.

I got to thinking that the bonnet of a car has the same potential to cause total havoc if it were to open during travel. A car bonnet has a safety latch which automatically engages when the bonnet closes.

My door latch works in a similar fashion:

First there is a striker plate that is secured onto the lower cabin frame (as seen below). The fiberglass of the cabin door entry has to be reduced both vertically and on the inside, to accommodate the plate, which is "Z" shaped in cross section, so as to provide some undercut on the inside of the door jamb (which engages the latch on the door). The striker plate is pop riveted and epoxied into place - an easy retro-fit.

http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39472qo0.jpg

The top of the plate is at the same level as the edge of the lower cabin frame.

http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39422fc2.jpg

Next the door latch was made up - I cut a hole in the inner door skin and made the latch as seen below. The latch pivots on a U-shaped bracket secured to the base of the door and there is a powerful hinge spring that ensures that the latch engages the undercut of the Z-plate. The name "Staniforth latch" is to honour the poor victim who was sitting in the plane when the door unexpectedly opened!!!!! I recently asked him to come for a fly (and to see his latches) but strangely, he refused!!

http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39492gw2.jpg

The wire spring can just be seen in the photo below.

http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39462nm1.jpg

As the door closes, the spring loaded latch lifts over the striker plate and then drops down and engages the undercut of the striker plate. Very simple, works every time; it cannot not work!!

http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39442xo6.jpg

Both the striker plate and latch are made of stainless steel.

Note the undercut on the latch in the photo below.

http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39452ip0.jpg

It also has a rod that exits through the outside door skin (sticks out about an inch) so that it can be deactivated when opening the door from outside.

http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39392os9.jpg

The latch has three functions, one expected and two not:

(i) once the door closes, there is an obvious "clunk" as the spring loaded latch engages the striker plate and drops into place, and even if the pilot/passenger fail to close the main door latch (pins), the door cannot open - this function I expected.

Additional (unexpected) functions are:

(ii) once the latch/striker have engaged, it pulls the door inward SO THAT THE DOOR PINS HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO ENGAGE - this overcomes the problem of the opening effect of the gas strut and the door seal pushing the rear of the door outward, and the rear pin failing to engage.

(iii) in-flight, the latch carries load. This means that the doors actually flex outward because of aerodynamic forces, which are carried by the latch! I have tried to open the safety latch in-flight and they become really tight because of the load they are carrying. This reduces the forces that have to be carried by the door pins.

At a recent SAAA (Australia) fly-in I had several RV10 builders have a look at my plane and especially the doors, and comments were very favorable. All of the other three RV10's at the meeting, had damage to the fibreglass associated with the rear door pins!!

BTW, I have fitted an air-conditioning unit and this really increases comfort in this very, very hot country - a MUST, I would say! I fitted a FlightLine system and it works as advitised!

Cheers

Andre Viljoen


Follow-up Message:

Went out to the A/P recently and took a few more photos with the latch cover off - hopes this helps with understanding the design.

http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...3120866kx1.jpg

The photo above shows the latch with the cover plate removed and we can see:
* Two stainless steel ‘L’ shaped brackets that have been bolted and epoxied to the base of the door.
* An AN3 bolt goes through a rod welded to the inner edge of the latch to make a hinge.
* On top of the latch is a rod that protrudes through the outer skin of the door.

http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...0296171dk7.jpg

This is a shot from underneath showing the rod that goes through the door for external opening. Also note how the spring goes into the head of the latch. The spring is essential for the latch to work. Also seen are the two countersunk bolts that secure the ‘L’ shaped brackets.

http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp41302gq7.jpg

Here the latch is being held up from the outside – note the powerful spring that pulls the latch downwards and ensures that it engages securely with the striker plate.










From: ricksked(at)cox.net [mailto:ricksked(at)cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:48 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: additional latch for 10 doors



Mike,

There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency

Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

[quote][b]


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gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 6:30 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Phil,

Very clever and simple design.
Wish someone with machining capabilities would make these for others to use!
grumpy
N184JM
On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:12 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
Quote:
Here you go Rick.






GDay all,

I am a 3 time offender (two RV6s and now a 10). I have about 1400 hrs on RVs and 2000hrs TT. Never had an incident or accident till about a year ago when my passenger door flew open on T/O!!! I remembered Vans advice to fly the plane and did a circuit. The passenger managed to grab thedoor as I turned downwind and applied rudder the slip helped close the door.

I sent a very detailed report to Van but no comment or reply. The RV10 is a magnificent A/C but the doors are its Achilles heal!

Over the past year I put my thinking cap on and came up with a very simple but highly effective solution. I have passed it on to Ken and Richard but still no reply. Thought I might share the solution with this forum as I believe ALL RV10s should have a similar device. It can only improve A/C safety.

I got to thinking that the bonnet of a car has the same potential to cause total havoc if it were to open during travel. A car bonnet has a safety latch which automatically engages when the bonnet closes.

My door latch works in a similar fashion:

First there is a striker plate that is secured onto the lower cabin frame (as seen below). The fiberglass of the cabin door entry has to be reduced both vertically and on the inside, to accommodate the plate, which is "Z" shaped in cross section, so as to provide some undercut on the inside of the door jamb (which engages the latch on the door). The striker plate is pop riveted and epoxied into place - an easy retro-fit.

http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39472qo0.jpg

The top of the plate is at the same level as the edge of the lower cabin frame.

http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39422fc2.jpg

Next the doorlatch was made up - I cut a hole in the inner door skin and made the latch as seen below. The latch pivots on a U-shaped bracket secured to the base of the door and there is a powerful hinge spring that ensures that the latch engages the undercut of the Z-plate. The name "Staniforth latch" is to honour the poor victim who was sitting in the plane when the doorunexpectedly opened!!!!! I recently asked him to come for a fly (and to see his latches) but strangely, he refused!!

http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39492gw2.jpg

The wire spring can just be seen in the photo below.

http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?i..gp39462nm1.jpg

As the door closes, the spring loaded latch lifts over the striker plate and then drops down and engages the undercut of the striker plate. Very simple, works every time; it cannot not work!!

http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39442xo6.jpg

Both the striker plate and latch are made of stainless steel.

Note the undercut on thelatch in the photo below.

http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39452ip0.jpg

It also has a rod that exits through the outside door skin (sticks out about an inch) so that it can be deactivated when opening thedoor from outside.

http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39392os9.jpg

The latch has three functions, one expected and two not:

(i) once the doorcloses, there is an obvious "clunk" as the spring loaded latch engages the striker plate and drops into place, and even if the pilot/passenger fail to close the main door latch(pins), the doorcannot open - this function I expected.

Additional (unexpected) functions are:

(ii) once the latch/striker have engaged, it pulls the door inward SO THAT THE DOOR PINS HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO ENGAGE - this overcomes the problem of the opening effect of the gas strut and thedoor seal pushing the rear of the door outward, and the rear pin failing to engage.

(iii) in-flight, the latch carries load. This means that the doors actually flex outward because of aerodynamic forces, which are carried by the latch! I have tried to open the safety latch in-flight and they become really tight because of the load they are carrying. This reduces the forces that have to be carried by the door pins.

At a recent SAAA (Australia) fly-in I had several RV10 builders have a look at my plane and especially the doors, and comments were very favorable. All of the other three RV10's at the meeting, had damage to the fibreglass associated with the rear door pins!!

BTW, I have fitted an air-conditioning unit and this really increases comfort in this very, very hot country - a MUST, I would say! I fitted a FlightLine system and it works as advitised!

Cheers

Andre Viljoen


Follow-up Message:

Went out to the A/P recently and took a few more photos with the latch cover off - hopes this helps with understanding the design.

http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...3120866kx1.jpg

The photo above shows the latch with the cover plate removed and we can see:
* Two stainless steel L shaped brackets that have been bolted and epoxied to the base of thedoor.
* An AN3 bolt goes through a rod welded to the inner edge of the latch to make a hinge.
* On top of the latch is a rod that protrudes through the outer skin of the door.

http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...0296171dk7.jpg

This is a shot from underneath showing the rod that goes through the door for external opening. Also note how the spring goes into the head of the latch. The spring is essential for the latch to work. Also seen are the two countersunk bolts that secure the L shaped brackets.

http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp41302gq7.jpg

Here the latch is being held up from the outside note the powerful spring that pulls the latchdownwards and ensures that it engages securely with the striker plate.










From: ricksked(at)cox.net (ricksked(at)cox.net) [mailto:ricksked(at)cox.net (ricksked(at)cox.net)]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:48 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors

Mike,

There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency

Rick Sked
N246RS

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

Quote:


====================================
yle="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
====================================
e; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
====================================
color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
====================================



= [quote][b]


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roxianmike(at)msn.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 6:40 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod so it wouldopen from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked(at)cox.net
Date: Mon C 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000

.ExternalClass .ecxhmmessage P {;} .ExternalClass body.ecxhmmessage {font-size:10pt=3B font-family:Verdana;} Mike C

There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch C I will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency

Rick Sked
N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sun C 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: additional latch for 10 doors


Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism=3Bat the bottom of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors.=3B As I am finishing my door latches I am consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted into the= =3Bbottom door=3Bframe/fuse)=3Bthat would move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this? =
Quote:


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Strasnuts



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 7:01 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After reading a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been looking at a third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in my father's machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in flight and he has worked on several different ways to make a third pin or latch that actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful making some test models that would work. So as time went on we have had the opportunity to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job with his plane and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He also installed the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched. After my dad and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with Scott we decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the door is not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my doors don't come out as good as Scott's did, I may add one. One good thing about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the handle to avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches don't have this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up with a fix for this also.
If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
[quote] ---


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RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 7:20 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Sean,
Regardless of the door handles, I'd like to enter my vote as to
you being crazy. Definitely a "Yeah" vote to that one.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
definitely do not archive
Seano wrote:
[quote] Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After reading
a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been looking at a
third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in my father's
machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in flight and he
has worked on several different ways to make a third pin or latch that
actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful making some test
models that would work. So as time went on we have had the opportunity
to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job with his plane
and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He also installed
the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched. After my dad
and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with Scott we
decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the door is
not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my doors
don't come out as good as Scott's did, I may add one. One good thing
about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the handle to
avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches don't have
this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up with a fix for
this also.
If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the
third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.

---


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robin1(at)mrmoisture.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:55 pm    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Thanks Sean,
            I would not call my patch a “fix” but rather “another thing to get in the way of inadvertent unlatching.” My “add on” gives me much greater security but they are not the solution. I think the third pin concept has a lot of merit and I saw someone’s design that seemed like a slam dunk with minor redesign to the pivoting part of the handle (lousy description). HOWEVER the "Staniforth latch" solves a problem the third pin can never solve. Inadvertent unlatching. There is mechanism failure and inadvertent unlatching I bet the WHOOPS especially from the PAX side is a real possibility. If someone accidently unlatches… that’s goodbye gull wing. I guess I have to give a shout out to Jessie’s strap, that will hold the door in place too and probably the easiest retrofit. That is why I like the Staniforth latch. Problem solved. Thanks for the write up Andre.  

My non-solution, solution.

Note: these same mechanisms with the latch handle in the proper orientation (arm pointing out) are an accident waiting to happen by just catching on a sleeve. Turned pointing in reduces the chances significantly. Adding the leaver lock gets you even further down the road.
[img]cid:image001.jpg(at)01CA8CBA.ACBCF1F0[/img]
[img]cid:image002.jpg(at)01CA8CBA.ACBCF1F0[/img]


Robin


From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:00 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors



Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After reading a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been looking at a third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in my father's machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in flight and he has worked on several different ways to make a third pin or latch that actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful making some test models that would work. So as time went on we have had theopportunity to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job with his plane and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He also installed the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched. After my dad and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with Scott we decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the door is not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my doors don't come out as good as Scott's did,I may add one. One good thing about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the handle to avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches don't have this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up with a fix for this also.

If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
Quote:

----- Original Message ----- .

From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever (roxianmike(at)msn.com)

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:38 PM

Subject: RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors



Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod so it wouldopen from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.


To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked(at)cox.net (ricksked(at)cox.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000

Mike,

There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency

Rick Sked
N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700

To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors



Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism=3Bat the bottom of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors.=3B As I am finishing my door latches I am consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted into the= =3Bbottom door=3Bframe/fuse)=3Bthat would move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this? =
Quote:
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Strasnuts



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 5:54 am    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

Thanks I-Tim,

I already new the answer to that part of the question.

While we are on the subject of doors, I think I am ready to hinge my left
door. I haven't sanded it down to fit all the way in the canopy but it's
really close. The top is flush but the bottom still sits outside the
canopy. Can I hinge the top now and work on the lower section until it fits
in the canopy? I was thinking if I could barely sand enough to get the top
hinges in, I could remove the canopy and install the overhead and blend it
then permenantly mount the canopy and final fit the doors. Does this sound
logical? A lot of weird sequencing here and thats not including paint!
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Strasnuts



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:22 am    Post subject: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

There are some important factors for the door mechanism:

Lightweight
Emergency exit - if the plane is on fire you want the pax to easily open the door
Strong - there is some mechanical leverage on the main handle
Ease of use for passengers to close the doors without a long explanation on how they work - part of the breifing
Be maintainable

The third pin we designed is a little heavy. It would add a little weight to the doors and might require a stronger gas strut. It is also expensive. It would cost about 200 bucks for materials alone from Vans' price sheet do fit both doors.



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Jim Berry



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:00 am    Post subject: Re: additional latch for 10 doors Reply with quote

There is a modification to the Staniforth or Oz latch that will be available very soon from a reliable source. It can be opened from the outside. As a beta tester I just finished installing them on my doors, and I think builders are going to find them a good solution. It took about 8-10 hours to fabricate the parts and install in both doors. No problem retrofitting the latches to finished and painted doors. I have been sworn to secrecy for another 1-2 weeks, so please don't ask for more info at this time.

Jim Berry
40482
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