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Access panel and wing lockers...

 
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allenricks(at)verizon.net
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:43 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Dear fellow listers...

I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.

1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
and file, or any other
great method.

2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any great
advice here. I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other advice or tips.

I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point. They are ready to
rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.

Thanks.

Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR.


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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:43 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Allen,
Don't use any power equipment. These are best done by hand. If you
need to cut a circle type
hole for inspection, drill a quarter inch hole at center of it with a
drill. Then put a sharp tool in your
fly-cutter with the vertical side of the cutting tool to the outside,
manually pull the tool like a compass
in a circle with very light pressure to remove material until the disk
virtually drops into your hand. This
is a fool-proof method where using a drill can be easily pressing your
luck. Takes about 10 minutes.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif

On the luggage wing opening, carefully ink mark your opening. Drill a
hole with a step drill a couple of
inches inside of the line. Cut the skin away with your best Weiss hand
shears, right or left hand and work
the hole down to an inch from the ink mark. Then cut to leave an eighth
inch. Then proceed to cut on the
inside edge of the ink mark with the shears. Afterward, carefully file
the edge to smooth it and keep it straight.
This method removes material in a way that will least likely bend any
outside the perimeter of the hole you
intend to make. Takes a little time, but it is a sure way to get a good
job. See links below.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/baggage-door-rear.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/luggageopenrear.gif

If you have further questions, just ask.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Allen Ricks wrote:

Quote:


Dear fellow listers...

I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.

1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
and file, or any other
great method.

2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any great
advice here. I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other advice or tips.

I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point. They are ready to
rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.

Thanks.

Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR.




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pilotdna(at)hotmail.com
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:11 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Hi Allen,

I have not yet made any inspection holes and can't help you there. However,
I do cut everything using a die grinder with a 3" cutting wheel as you
mentioned. It works extremely well, and the thinnest style wheels
(depending on vendor, they range from paper thin to almost 1/8" thick) slice
through .032 and thinner sheet so fast it only gets slightly warm to the
touch. The wheel will not distort the edges as hand shears do, and it
allows "plunge cuts" like you need to do for the locker openings.

After using the cutting wheel to cut close to your intended line, a 90
degree die grinder with a small 50 grit sanding disk allows very
controllable final trimming, although if you need to trim more than an
eighth inch or so you may have to pause to allow cooling since the sanding
disk does heat the metal up quickly.

This is the technique I have used for all rib, horn, fitting, and skin
blanks for the H. Stab and elevator. However, that is all I have built so
take it for what it's worth.

Do not Archive

Douglas Eatman
601XL/Corvair scratch builder


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bill_dom(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:11 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Two words.. Olfa Knife
http://www.ch601.org/tools/olfa.htm

It is the best thing for straight cuts like the one
needed for the wing lockers.

William Dominguez
Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
--- Allen Ricks <allenricks(at)verizon.net> wrote:

Quote:

<allenricks(at)verizon.net>

Dear fellow listers...

I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins.
Two questions.

1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice
for cutting the
inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck
with a hole saw vs. drill
and file, or any other
great method.

2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker
option. Again, any great
advice here. I do have a hand held high speed
air cutting wheel.
Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the
metal
too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other
advice or tips.

I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point.
They are ready to
rivet in place once I have accomplished the above
two tasks.

Thanks.

Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR.





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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:18 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

---

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frank.hinde(at)hp.com
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:55 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

For the baggage holes I had rapid success with a jigsaw...Tape the skins
with masking tape so the foot of the saw won't scratch...Then let it
rip...Now don't try to cut up to the edges of the hole with a saw,
grinding wheel or anything else that is "hi speed"...simply cut to
within 3/8ths" minimum and finish off with tin snips.

This mthod has them cut in no time flat!

Frank

601HDS 395 hours...fresh BFR



--


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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:19 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Hi Allen,

It seems like there are as many ways to cut holes in wing skins as
there are builders doing it. Let me add my method to the list of alternatives.

First I mark exactly the shape I want in the finished hole with a
felt tip (permanent) marker. This often requires making a pattern
from 1/8 inch plywood or similar material and just tracing the
outline. In the case of an inspection hole, I mark the centerline
and endpoints of the oval shape on the wing and then use my full size
pattern with matching centerline marks to locate and draw the outline
on the skin.

To get the actual hole I use what I call my "Sneaking up"
method. This method works for everything from forming nearly perfect
inspection holes to machining parts on a lathe or shoving dirt and
gravel around with a tractor. In the wing skin case, I start by
making a nice hole with a step drill somewhere inside the marked
pattern. This hole winds up being 3/4 inch or so and is large enough
to allow tin snips to start cutting toward the final outline. Next I
make as many repeated passes as necessary with the snips removing
metal from the hole. Depending on the shape needed, I stop using the
snips when I am around 1/4 inch from the final mark to right on the
line for a straight portion of the outline. Then I move to hand
files and sometimes a Dremel tool with a triangular (conical?) rotary
file to work ever closer to the final line. I like the triangular
shape because I can choose to use the small radius portion for slow
cutting or move to larger radius portion for faster metal removal. A
rat tail file is great for forming relatively small radius areas like
a rounded inside corner.

For an actual inspection plate, I start by making the plate
itself. I drill pilot holes where the final screws will go. After
finding the correct position for the plate, I attach it to the skin
with duct tape and drill through the holes to get perfect matches for
the holes in the skin. Clecos are handy for this process too. The
actual inspection hole is then marked inside the screw holes and the
metal is removed. Meanwhile the screw holes are opened up to the
required size for the screws and nut plates installed on the
inspection plate. (I set the solid rivets using a 1 ton arbor press
I have had around the shop for a long time.) After creating the
inspection hole, the screw holes are enlarged. To install the
inspection plate I like to attach a temporary handle with duct tape
rolled into a circle to make double stick duct tape. That is used to
hold a block of wood onto the plate to position it for the
screws. After the screws are installed the temporary handle comes right off.

After reaching the marked outline, it is time to finish the edge of
metal. I do this with smooth files of appropriate shape. The half
round shape seems to be the best for most uses. Final finish can be
done with the files or a few passes with extra fine grit sandpaper or
emery cloth will make a very smooth edge that won't cut you or one of
your many girlfriends while they are stowing baggage for the weekend
in the wilderness.

Good luck,

Paul
XL wings
At 04:28 PM 4/12/2006, you wrote:
Quote:
Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
and file, or any other
great method.


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hrs1(at)frontiernet.net
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:36 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

How about cutting the outline with Jillson snips - slow, sure, and easy.
Touch up with a file. Robert Schoenberger do not archive

---


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jeffrey_davidson(at)earth
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 7:46 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Allen Ricks wrote:
I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.
Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill and file, or any other
great method.

Allen,
FWIW I used a unibit to drill out the four corners of the opening.
Then I enlarged the openings with a hand nibbler enough to use simple
straight hand snips with a non-serrated edge. Then I filed the cut edges
smooth. It is a manual process, but I felt that I had a lot more control
this way. They came out fine.

Jeff Davidson
Do not archive


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Gig Giacona



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1416
Location: El Dorado Arkansas USA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 6:32 am    Post subject: Re: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Two questions for you Larry.

First, Could you take some closeup photos of the installed fasteners on your wing lockers? Or point me somewhere I can get instructions on how to install them. I've put off their installation and I'm goinfg to have to install them sooner or later and I'm not really sure how they are installed.

Second, did you make those inspection point springy things or did you buy them and if so where?

GigG
www.peoamerica.net/N601WR

larry(at)macsmachine.com wrote:
Allen,
Don't use any power equipment. These are best done by hand. If you
need to cut a circle type
hole for inspection, drill a quarter inch hole at center of it with a
drill. Then put a sharp tool in your
fly-cutter with the vertical side of the cutting tool to the outside,
manually pull the tool like a compass
in a circle with very light pressure to remove material until the disk
virtually drops into your hand. This
is a fool-proof method where using a drill can be easily pressing your
luck. Takes about 10 minutes.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif

On the luggage wing opening, carefully ink mark your opening. Drill a
hole with a step drill a couple of
inches inside of the line. Cut the skin away with your best Weiss hand
shears, right or left hand and work
the hole down to an inch from the ink mark. Then cut to leave an eighth
inch. Then proceed to cut on the
inside edge of the ink mark with the shears. Afterward, carefully file
the edge to smooth it and keep it straight.
This method removes material in a way that will least likely bend any
outside the perimeter of the hole you
intend to make. Takes a little time, but it is a sure way to get a good
job. See links below.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/baggage-door-rear.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/luggageopenrear.gif

If you have further questions, just ask.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Allen Ricks wrote:

Quote:


Dear fellow listers...

I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.

1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
and file, or any other
great method.

2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any great
advice here. I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other advice or tips.

I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point. They are ready to
rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.

Thanks.

Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR.



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_________________
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 10:17 am    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... Reply with quote

Gig,
I used Dzus fasteners have been illustrated for the installation in the
2006 Aircraft Spruce Catalog
on page 105. The problem with Dzus components is picking the right
sizes. See the following links.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzustools.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzusdimples.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzusspring.gif
The links show a Dzus tool set, the dimpled set of holes that are needed
and the back side
of the installed Dzus spring. I use A4 rivets to secure the springs.
Dimple the material for the head
and use the flat surface on the pop riveter to secure. Dzus springs are
S4-225s. The Dzus studs are
S4 (1/4-inch) and are -50 length. The Dzus grommets are GB4B.
You need a set of dimpling dies that can be pulled with your pop riveter.
I had to make a similar dimpler for the large stud holes to dimple them too.
You need to make a steel drill template to allow marking and drilling
accurate holes
for the springs and Dzus studs. The holes for the studs should be
5/16-inch and the
holes for the rivets are 1/8-inch. You need to make a shim to adjust
the springs to the correct
height from a smooth surface for uniformity. The installed spring needs
to be centered across
the stud hole accurately and can be done visually. All spring height
and centering adjustments can be
made by hand with two pair of pliers.
Also, you want to install the springs in a manner that leaves the slot
aligned with the wind or uniform to
the rest of the installed studs.
Now, as you progress in making or obtaining these parts and making the
tools, don't just start on your
airplane. Make a test sample installation on one or two sample patches
of aluminum. When you're satisfied
that the installed Dzus pieces are done correctly, then start on your
luggage area. I prefer the Dzus fasteners
to the newer components because they're simpler. If you aren't
satisfied with the fit, you drill out the rivets as
you would for any other redo and salvage the springs. You might need to
tighten the spring for the rivet or not
but I've not had any come loose since they were installed.

The spiders for the inspection plates are of my own design. The spiders
have half an inch overlap on the inspection
holes. The centers are held by an 8-32 screw in a rivnut. The .040
inspection plates were spun in a lathe to remove half an inch
of material thickness or .015 so the plate stays centered in the hole
and the spider is adjusted to a consistent
height that snugs the plate and won't let go. You should try making
one. They're not really hard to do. If you need
to put one forward of the spar underneath, I recommend you add a leading
edge screw and tinnerman for security.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/spiders.jpg
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif

Good luck,

Larry McFarland- 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com

Gig Giacona wrote:

Quote:


Two questions for you Larry.

First, Could you take some closeup photos of the installed fasteners on your wing lockers? Or point me somewhere I can get instructions on how to install them. I've put off their installation and I'm goinfg to have to install them sooner or later and I'm not really sure how they are installed.

Second, did you make those inspection point springy things or did you buy them and if so where?

GigG





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