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Yet another priming question

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cs(at)charlesstringham.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:31 am Post subject: Yet another priming question

Hi Fellow RVers,

Does anyone have experience with Tempo zinc phosphate aerosol primer for internal priming? Tempo's zinc chromate aerosol primer is listed in the RV-8 construction manual as being an acceptable priming option. Apparently Tempo no longer makes the chromate, and says that phosphate is the new equivalent. It sounded like a great way to go, given that I can prime my parts individually with a can primer. I tested it first on some scrap 2024 T3. I scuffed the surface with Scotch Bright, then cleaned with MEK. Then I applied a light coat of Tempo. But, 48 hours later, I was able to remove the primer by lightly running my finger nail over the surface; there was almost no adhesion. Did I do something wrong?  I don't need to use Alumiprep if I use Scotch Bright, do I? What about SEM self-etching aerosol primer? Does anyone know anything about that?

Thanks, Chet Stringham

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colm.oreilly(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 5:41 am Post subject: Yet another priming question

I had a similar issue with using a non  self-etch aerosol primer.

I would recommend alumiprep, then alodine, then the primer, the  

alodine is the conversion coating that gives you better adhesion.

Alternatively, you may get good results with your scotch-briting and  

then an aerosol 'self-etch' primer.

Even with scotch briting, you may want either alumi or metal prep or a  

'self-etch' to take care of any traces of oil/grease on the surface.

Colm

On Jan 3, 2010, at 12:30, "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com 

 > wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 >

 Hi Fellow RVers,

 Does anyone have experience with Tempo zinc phosphate aerosol primer  

 for internal priming? Tempo's zinc chromate aerosol primer is listed  

 in the RV-8 construction manual as being an acceptable priming  

 option. Apparently Tempo no longer makes the chromate, and says that  

 phosphate is the new equivalent. It sounded like a great way to go,  

 given that I can prime my parts individually with a can primer. I  

 tested it first on some scrap 2024 T3. I scuffed the surface with  

 Scotch Bright, then cleaned with MEK. Then I applied a light coat of  

 Tempo. But, 48 hours later, I was able to remove the primer by  

 lightly running my finger nail over the surface; there was almost no  

 adhesion. Did I do something wrong?  I don't need to use Alumiprep  

 if I use Scotch Bright, do I? What about SEM self-etching aerosol  

 primer? Does anyone know anything about that?

 Thanks, Chet Stringham

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Speedy11(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:00 pm Post subject: Yet another priming question

OH - good fun - another primer war!

  

 Chet, I used several primers.  I sprayed primer on the entire inside  of the fuselage using several brands of self-etching primers.  I sprayed  the fuselage using a spray gun and a gallon of self-etching primer.  I used  a fresh air ventilator while doing it.  Then I primed other parts using  rattle can self-etching primers.  The SEM worked fine and is readily  available.  I scuffed first with scotchbrite then cleaned the metal with  Dupont 210 cleaner or with MEK.  In one case I did not get good adhesion so  I stripped the parts and scotchbrited them again and reprimed.  The second  time held.

 There is a lot of opinion about whether to prime and how much and what type  primer.  So, I'm just telling you what I did.  We'll know in 35 or 40  years whether or not my efforts were worthwhile.  By that time, the  internet will have been replaced by mental telepathy - so send me your thoughts  at that time.

 I recommend priming any unprimed parts with self etching primer after  cleaning with some type of metal cleaner to remove body oils and other  contaminants.

 You may want to check with the paint shop you plan to use (or a  professional painter) to make sure the primer you use is compatible with the  planned top coat paint.

 Good luck and thanks for starting the primer wars again.  They're  entertaining.

 Stan Sutterfield

 www.rv-8a.net

 Do not archive

  	  Quote: 	
		  Hi    Fellow RVers,

Does anyone have experience with Tempo zinc phosphate aerosol    primer for internal

priming? Tempo's zinc chromate aerosol primer is listed    in the RV-8 construction

manual as being an acceptable priming option.    Apparently Tempo no longer

makes the chromate, and says that phosphate is    the new equivalent. It sounded

like a great way to go, given that I can    prime my parts individually with a can

primer. I tested it first on some    scrap 2024 T3. I scuffed the surface with

Scotch Bright, then cleaned with    MEK. Then I applied a light coat of Tempo. But,

48 hours later, I was able    to remove the primer by lightly running my finger

nail over the surface;    there was almost no adhesion. Did I do something wrong?

I don't need to use    Alumiprep if I use Scotch Bright, do I? What about SEM

self-etching aerosol    primer? Does anyone know anything about that?

Thanks, Chet  Stringham 	


 

  

  [quote][b]

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Jerry Grimmonpre'

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 144
Location: Huntley, Illinois 60142

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:39 am Post subject: Yet another priming question

Dear Listers ...

  

 "For What It's Worth Dept",

  

 Two years ago my son zero timed a straight tail Cessna 172 built in  1956.  Cessna blew NO paint, on the inside of that critter, when  built.  The protection Cessna relied on was Alclad.  There was NO  corrosion on the inside of the empanage, wings or tail feathers.  There was  a bit of surface corrosion on the cockpit side of the root rib and  that was it.  The airplane had been owned by a group of United pilots who  never hangared the airplane for years.  

  

 Regards ... Jerry

 [quote]   ---

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dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:43 pm Post subject: Yet another priming question

Hi All:More re priming from the "for-what-it's-worth" department:

My RV-7A has been flying since early August 09 after 6 1/2 years of construction time.  I primed all aluminum surfaces not destined for finish painting with Sherwin - Williams industrial wash primer.  I worked all surfaces over thoroughly with Scotch Brite pads and cleaned them with lacquer thinner prior to 

 spraying with an el cheapo spray gun.  I used a good quality 3M respirator and plenty of fresh air ventilation with box fans.  (If I ever build another airplane I'll buy myself a fresh air respirator.)   For occasional spraying of small and odd parts I used the same prep technique and a Sherwin Williams rattle can primer.  It worked fine.  I'm glad I primed and would do it again, but I'll be the first to admit, it was a lot of work and drudgery.  How effective is it in preventing/delaying corrosion?  I don't honestly know and will let others debate the issue.

 



Dan Bergeron

RV-7A - N307TB

76 hours since 08/04/09 and flying beautifully   



On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Jerry Grimmonpre <jerry(at)mc.net (jerry(at)mc.net)> wrote:

 [quote]       Dear Listers ...

  

 "For What It's Worth Dept",

  

 Two years ago my son zero timed a straight tail Cessna 172 built in  1956.  Cessna blew NO paint, on the inside of that critter, when  built.  The protection Cessna relied on was Alclad.  There was NO  corrosion on the inside of the empanage, wings or tail feathers.  There was  a bit of surface corrosion on the cockpit side of the root rib and  that was it.  The airplane had been owned by a group of United pilots who  never hangared the airplane for years.  

  

 Regards ... Jerry

 [quote]   ---

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