 |
Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
jconnell(at)fmwildblue.co
Guest
|
 Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:36 am Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
 |
|
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
sportav8r(at)gmail.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:10 am Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
It's been 12 years since the build, but I recall sanding the hinge pins for a long time before they slid in easily enough - 400, 600 grit carbide paper and then emery cloth - lengthwise, by hand. No need to chuck it in a lathe and maintain perfect roundness - probably a good way to lose a body part. I think I crowned the openings of some of the troublesome hinge eyes with a small abrasive Dremel burr, too.
Bill B
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com (jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com)> wrote:
[quote] Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
| Quote: |
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
bell
Joined: 26 Aug 2009
Posts: 17
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:18 am Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
Why don’t you try putting some coarse valve lapping compound on each of the eyes and running the .090 through them with a drill with the halves in position…say a minute or so…then clean all the coarse off …which will take a while …then repeat with fine compound…get hinges and .090 good and clean…and lube everything and see if that doesn’t help…I found that it took very very little misalignement to cause a big problem…plus it cleaned out the epoxy that somehow found its way onto the hinges…
The coarse alone leaves a matte finish and they will still be a little stiff..the fine polishes it up…I suspect that a third reaming with rubbing compound would make them slicker but I didn’t find that to be necessary…
I haven’t heard of anyone else doing this so there may be some reason not to..but I didn’t see anything wrong with it..
Of course I wouldn’t do this untl I was absolutely sure/positive/convinced that the eyes were as aligned as I could get them…
I never considered this to be a short cut…just the final finish to eliminate “high spots”
ner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe & Jan Connell
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 11:33 AM
To: RV-List
Subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
| Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
0123456789
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
bell
Joined: 26 Aug 2009
Posts: 17
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:19 am Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
Just add to my previous post that I also crowned them with my dremel and the carbide burr that I bought at OSH this year..i just had to get that in..
Btw the compound reduced the pin dia by less than .002
Bell
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 1:10 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
It's been 12 years since the build, but I recall sanding the hinge pins for a long time before they slid in easily enough - 400, 600 grit carbide paper and then emery cloth - lengthwise, by hand. No need to chuck it in a lathe and maintain perfect roundness - probably a good way to lose a body part. I think I crowned the openings of some of the troublesome hinge eyes with a small abrasive Dremel burr, too.
Bill B
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com (jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com)> wrote:
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
| Quote: | | t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Listtp://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution |
0123456789 | Quote: | | t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
0 | Quote: | | t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
1 | Quote: | | t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
2 | Quote: | | t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
3 | Quote: | | t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
4 | Quote: | | t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
5
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:24 pm Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
Is this a flying plane or are you still building? If you are still building and you can get it together, I would not do anything until you have flown the plane for a good month or so. The heat cycles on the cowl fiberglass really help align things and it makes the pins much easier to remove. I had the same issue on my -4 and a -10 and after a few flights I was able to get them in and out by hand.
YMMV
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 28, 2010, at 12:33 PM, "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com (jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com)> wrote:
[quote] Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Deerlake(at)bresnan.net
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 4:28 pm Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
Joe,
If you don't mind a "blast from the past" (retired RV builder), I like
the idea of reducing the diameter and smoothing the hinge pin. My main
interest was always to make sure the aluminum hinge material lasted as
long as possible because it would be such a mess to replace. You can
always buy some new hinge pin with the cad plating intact if things get
sloppy. That never happened on my RV6 in 475 hours.
On my RV6 and the ones I helped others build, I chucked the hinge pin in
an air drill, removed all of the cad plating, polished with red and gray
Scotchbrite, degreased the pins and lubed with "MolyCoat "G" a
*Molybdenum disulfide* product---very lightly,less than a "match head's"
worth for both pins. I then ran the pin in with a drill to transfer the
moly to the aluminum loops. I thought this would be much better than
oil as having oil drain on a surface to be painted would be bad. Avoid
silicon for the same reason. After a few runs with the drill, I was
able to easily install and remove the pins by hand. (This is with RV6's
only. I have no experience with the nine.)
Make sure you haven't grabbed the pins anywhere along the length and
raised "burrs" as this will do a job on the interior of the soft
aluminum hinge loops.
Although I still read the list, I don't post because I haven't kept up
on the "latest & greatest". I think I've helped on around 8 or 9 RVs
and a couple of Glastars, the latest being a RV6A over in Spearfish,
S.D. which was finished a year or so ago.
Bob Skinner
Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
| Quote: | Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join
the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive
efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable
binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out
of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still
use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've
considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the
hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened
a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain
the pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
*
*
|
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
peterlaurence6(at)gmail.c
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:20 pm Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
I had the same problem on my 9A even though I was very careful in the installation. I took each hinge segment and opened them slightly where need. It took a while but it worked out well.
Peter
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com (jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com)> wrote:
[quote] Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
| Quote: |
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ianxbrown
Joined: 16 May 2009
Posts: 80
|
| Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:15 am Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Joe,
My RV-9A gave me exactly the same grief and still does, putting in the cowl hinge pins. Four tips that I seem to have eased the situation a lot for me without changing the diameter of the pins are:
1. If you make a hardwood stick, about 12" long with a hole in one end to receive the bent over end of the hinge pin, you can get much better purchase on a sticky hinge pin by holding the pin against the stick. It also helps when removing it too. I'm assuming you bent over the last 1/2" per the plans.
2. Do a visual check of exactly where it's binding and try to gently ease those hinge segments over in the right direction. Don't use something that will crush the inner diameter of the hinge (my experience), or maybe fill the hole with a piece of pin before you start trying to move it. It's time consuming, checking, removing the cowl, bending, blah blah.
3. Taper the starting end of the pin off centre, then when you're trying to find the hole in the next segment you can rotate the pin to fish for the hole.
4. On my 9A it works best to put the side pins half way in, then align and only start the firewall pins, and then finish off inserting the side pins. My pins on the firewall also benefit from a push with my pusher stick.
After 55 hours removing and replacing the cowl is getting easier and quicker. The pins do seem to loosen a bit, but developing a routine that works for you helps too, especially if, like me, you usually have to do it on your own.
Ian Brown, Bromont, QC, C-GOHM RV-9A
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
wroe1(at)dbtech.net
Guest
|
| Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:53 am Post subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
|
|
Gentleman,
I just completed the cowling on my 7 and encountered the same issue (slight misalignment/epoxy interference). My solution was to take a long piece of the .090 pin material and flute one end like a drill bit. I did this by hand on my bench grinding. This doesn’t need to perfect just a semi-sharp helix. I then matched up the top and bottom cowl as if I were going to assemble with the hinge pin. Then I chucked my .090 fluted pin in my cordless drill and ran it in and out through the hinge eyes of my cowling. Continue cycle full depth until the desired fit is achieved. A drop or two of oil goes a long way.  Fine lapping compound could also be used if needed.
Hope this helps!
Wade Roe  Â
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 11:07 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Joe,
My RV-9A gave me exactly the same grief and still does, putting in the cowl hinge pins. Four tips that I seem to have eased the situation a lot for me without changing the diameter of the pins are:
1. If you make a hardwood stick, about 12" long with a hole in one end to receive the bent over end of the hinge pin, you can get much better purchase on a sticky hinge pin by holding the pin against the stick. It also helps when removing it too. I'm assuming you bent over the last 1/2" per the plans.
2. Do a visual check of exactly where it's binding and try to gently ease those hinge segments over in the right direction. Don't use something that will crush the inner diameter of the hinge (my experience), or maybe fill the hole with a piece of pin before you start trying to move it. It's time consuming, checking, removing the cowl, bending, blah blah.
3. Taper the starting end of the pin off centre, then when you're trying to find the hole in the next segment you can rotate the pin to fish for the hole.
4. On my 9A it works best to put the side pins half way in, then align and only start the firewall pins, and then finish off inserting the side pins. My pins on the firewall also benefit from a push with my pusher stick.
After 55 hours removing and replacing the cowl is getting easier and quicker. The pins do seem to loosen a bit, but developing a routine that works for you helps too, especially if, like me, you usually have to do it on your own.
Ian Brown, Bromont, QC, C-GOHM RV-9A
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|
Get Email Distribution Too!
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
