 |
Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
JHearnsberger
Joined: 22 Dec 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Springhill, LA
|
 Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:24 am Post subject: countersunk too deep |
 |
|
While countersinking below the upper attach bolt holes on the rear spar doubler, I over shot on the first three or four holes. The metal is fairly thick. Is this something I should worry about?
Also, what is a good way to de-bur in between the spaces on the flanges? I have been using #600 sandpaper to try and knock off any rough spots.
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
| Description: |
|
| Filesize: |
620.23 KB |
| Viewed: |
5834 Time(s) |
|
| Description: |
|
| Filesize: |
546.1 KB |
| Viewed: |
5834 Time(s) |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
tsts4
Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 167
Location: Tampa, FL
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:47 am Post subject: Re: countersunk too deep |
|
|
Those CSK's are a problem. You'll have a hard time getting the rivets to set properly. If it were me, I'd replace the doubler. I'd also recommend testing your microstop on scrap before moving to the actual parts. Because I'm lazy by nature, I bought 4 microstops for different cutters. That way once they're "dialed-in" I don't have to mess with them.
For deburring thick stock, I like to start with a vixen file to knock the rough spots off and then finish with my 3M wheel on my bench grinder or, in this case the small 3M wheels in my die grinder (I use the same setup for lightening holes). 600 grit sand paper is way too fine IMO.
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
Todd Stovall
aka "Auburntsts" on EAA and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 6:03 am Post subject: countersunk too deep |
|
|
IIRC those are #4 rivets, get the next size larger 5 or 6's and use them, should be good to go. Btw one of the best pieces of advice I got at this point in the build was to order a supply of extra rivets ( a couple oz each) as well as some OOPS rivets. Unless you live close to a supply source it will make your build go much faster.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 6:43 am Post subject: countersunk too deep |
|
|
As Deems said, easiest fix is to move to the next rivet size. In this
case you probably want the standard rivet, not an oops, so that the
countersink is filled in. Do your deburring with medium scotchbrite
pad if you can't get a scotchbrite wheel on it. You will find that 1",
2" and 6" scotchbrite wheels are the best for deburring and polishing
edges. When you can't get a deburr tool on a hole, scotchbrite pad
works. Also, I've found small diamond files from Harbor Freight in
various shapes work well.
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 6:24 AM, JHearnsberger
<jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> wrote:
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dlm46007(at)cox.net
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 6:44 am Post subject: countersunk too deep |
|
|
I would check the price of a new piece; otherwise you can oversize the rivet to fill the countersink. I also notice from the photo that other visible rivets are under CS. You need to test your counter sink stop on another piece of metal prior to working on the good stuff.
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:44 am Post subject: Re: countersunk too deep |
|
|
You can also use a Whitney Punch to punch a small thin piece of aluminum out then dimple it. Available from Aircraft Spruce. Be careful to check countersink cutter depth after using for a dimpled skin to nest in, as it is set about .005"-.015" deeper(depends on dimpled skin thickness). Then when you use it next time it will cut way too deep for just a rivet to set in. Ask me how I know. Now I always adjust it shallow when I am finished with it. Also be careful countersinking near ends of a flange as there is no support on one side and you can easily go way to deep and oblong. Again, ask me how I know. I now look at countersink foot and flange from the side when doing the last hole and do not let csk foot drop below flange surface. Also use slow speed and Boelube when cutting to improve csk'ing. Have fun. I sure am.
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
Wayne G. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
John Kirkland
Joined: 13 Jan 2006
Posts: 19
Location: South Weber, UT
|
| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:14 am Post subject: Re: countersunk too deep |
|
|
Ah the memories...before I finished section 6 I bought new parts from Vans AND used a few 5/32 rivets...
DO NOT ARCHIVE
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
JHearnsberger
Joined: 22 Dec 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Springhill, LA
|
| Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:10 am Post subject: Re: countersunk too deep |
|
|
thank you
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|
Get Email Distribution Too!
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
