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Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

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robin1(at)mrmoisture.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:22 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?  

I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.   

(Note: Matco Axel Installed)  

   

Thanks in advance,  

Robin  

      [quote][b]

johngoodman

Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:29 pm Post subject: Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

Robin,

The problem is the castle nut. It's either too tight, or too loose. I've been advised to get it as close to the 25 pounds as possible on the tight side- it will loosen up, I hope.

John

_________________
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011

Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:30 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

I would speak up but you said "proper"



Sent from my iPhone



On Feb 3, 2010, at 20:18, "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com (robin1(at)mrmoisture.com)> wrote:



[quote]    

Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?  

I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.   

(Note: Matco Axel Installed)  

   

Thanks in advance,  

Robin  

       	  Quote: 	
		  

	


[b]

_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:44 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty 

straightforward.  For the nut that holds the forks on,

you torque it until it has over 22? lb-ft of breakout force

to get it to swivel....In practice I'd shoot for 25-35 and

be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first

couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.



Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the

bearing about as tight as you can by hand, and then that sets

the preload.  After that you could tighten the axle bolt nuts

to standard torque for that size nut if you wish, because

the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

do not archive

Robin Marks wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly 

 tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?

 

 I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches 

 but when I tried the results were mediocre.

 

 (Note: Matco Axel Installed)

 

  

 

 Thanks in advance,

 

 Robin

 

 *

dlm46007(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:20 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

Just be certain that the locking bolt that goes through the fork and spacer

and into the axle clears the wheel pant mounting bracket. I pointed the

potential problem to a buddy who was about to drill the locking hole where

the bracket must go. 





--

partner14

Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 540
Location: Granbury Texas

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:42 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

Robin, to properly do this you're probably going to need to drill and additional hole in the shaft for the cotter pin.  With only one hole, to align the cotter pin, each alignment point is 60 degrees apart.  Drill another hole, making sure it's in between the 2 opennings on the hex nut, which will give you the proper alignment every 30 drgrees.  Then follow Tim's procedure.

 See ya in a couple of months.

 Don McDonald



--- On Wed, 2/3/10, Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> wrote:



  	  Quote: 	
		  

From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>

Subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Wednesday, February 3, 2010, 7:18 PM



       

Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?

 

I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches but when I tried the results were mediocre. 

 

(Note: Matco Axel Installed)

 

 

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Robin



 	  Quote: 	
		  



get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com

blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	


	


           [quote][b]

_________________
Don A. McDonald
40636

pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:38 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

I doubt that drilling a new hole would be very successful unless you had 

someway to get the nose strut clamped on your drill press.  Proper use 

of the belleville washers will eliminate the shimmy .... the back and 

forth motion of the nose fork.  My experience comes from the Grumman 

line which has a similar swiveling nose gear.



There are more than one way of stacking the washers that work.  the 

'best' stack seems to be two nested washers facing two nested washers 

face to face (outside edges to outside edges).  You can add motr 

bellevelle washers or another flat washer or both .... this is the 

experimental part.



Proper tension is 25-35 lbs pull on the wheel axle to make it move sideways.



There's a fine balance between being able to easily drag the plane 

around the ramp (or push it back) by the prop and having shimmy problems.



This is all based on the nose fork bushing being vertical and the 

rotation plane of the nose fork parallel to the ground.



Hope this helps.  Someday I will have to address the same issue, I'm sure.

Linn



Don McDonald wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Robin, to properly do this you're probably going to need to drill and 

 additional hole in the shaft for the cotter pin.  With only one hole, to 

 align the cotter pin, each alignment point is 60 degrees apart.  Drill 

 another hole, making sure it's in between the 2 opennings on the hex 

 nut, which will give you the proper alignment every 30 drgrees.  Then 

 follow Tim's procedure.

 See ya in a couple of months.

 Don McDonald

 

 --- On *Wed, 2/3/10, Robin Marks /<robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>/* wrote:

 

 

     From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>

     Subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

     To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

     Date: Wednesday, February 3, 2010, 7:18 PM

 

     Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly

     tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?

 

     I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive

     searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.

 

     (Note: Matco Axel Installed)

 

      

 

     Thanks in advance,

 

     Robin

 

     *

 

     get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

     =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com

     blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 

     *

 

 

 *

 

 

 *

rv10rob(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:42 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

D'oh!  Wish I'd read this before I drilled my hole, 2 days ago.  I just checked and will need to cut the bracket back a little, but shouldn't be a big deal.

  

 For archive purposes, for those installing the Matco axle before the wheel pants, read ahead to Page 48-17 Step 2 to ensure the U-1013C bracket will clear the hole you drill.

  

 -Rob

 On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 8:17 PM, DLM <dlm46007(at)cox.net (dlm46007(at)cox.net)> wrote:

 [quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net (dlm46007(at)cox.net)>

 



Just be certain that the locking bolt that goes through the fork and spacer

and into the axle clears the wheel pant mounting bracket. I pointed the

potential problem to a buddy who was about to drill the locking hole where

 the bracket must go.

  

 



--

robin1(at)mrmoisture.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 10:07 pm Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

Thanks all. I think I have a little Goldilocks syndrome. First too

loose, then too tight that eventually became too lose. I never felt

comfortable with accurately measuring the break out force and the lack

to refining the nut cotter hole location just adds to the issue. The

only RV I have ever owned that didn't some form of shimmy was my -4. It

would be nice to have a consistent landings and decelerations with no

vibration. 

BTW for those that have yet to land their -10 it's pure Vans. I

regularly touch N110EE down where the only sensation is the spinning of

the mains followed by a comfortable wheelie till all authority is lost.

I'm not that good, credit Vans design. 



Robin

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 4:35 am Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

It gets better after the first 2 or 3 re-torques over 200-300  

hrs...it's a break-in process from the feel of it.

Definitely right on the landings....the plane makes you look good.

Tim



On Feb 4, 2010, at 12:06 AM, "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>  

wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Thanks all. I think I have a little Goldilocks syndrome. First too

 loose, then too tight that eventually became too lose. I never felt

 comfortable with accurately measuring the break out force and the lack

 to refining the nut cotter hole location just adds to the issue. The

 only RV I have ever owned that didn't some form of shimmy was my -4.  

 It

 would be nice to have a consistent landings and decelerations with no

 vibration.

 BTW for those that have yet to land their -10 it's pure Vans. I

 regularly touch N110EE down where the only sensation is the spinning  

 of

 the mains followed by a comfortable wheelie till all authority is  

 lost.

 I'm not that good, credit Vans design.



 Robin

gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:54 am Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

My problem with the Matco Axle is getting the Matco parts tight  

enough.  Their instructions say to tighten until the seal doesn't  

rotate, which I haven't been able to do by hand, then back off just  

enough to get the set screw in place.

Anyone got an idea on how to tighten these parts without using large  

channel locks and scarring up the finish?

grumpy

On Feb 3, 2010, at 9:40 PM, Tim Olson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty  

 straightforward.  For the nut that holds the forks on,

 you torque it until it has over 22? lb-ft of breakout force

 to get it to swivel....In practice I'd shoot for 25-35 and

 be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first

 couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.

 Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the

 bearing about as tight as you can by hand, and then that sets

 the preload.  After that you could tighten the axle bolt nuts

 to standard torque for that size nut if you wish, because

 the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.

 Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

 do not archive

 Robin Marks wrote:

> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly  

> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?

> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive  

> searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.

> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)

> Thanks in advance,

> Robin

> *

scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.co
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:32 am Post subject: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

Make sure you balance the front wheel.  After I balanced mine, which took about 1.5 oz. of lead, I had no more shimmy in my front wheel.  

Before I did the wheel balancing I tried to tighten and loosen the fork and it never made a difference.  

Scott Schmidtscottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com

From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 8:30:06 AM

Subject: Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork

 --> RV10-List message posted by: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com (gengrumpy(at)aol.com)>

My problem with the Matco Axle is getting the Matco parts tight enough.  Their instructions say to tighten until the seal doesn't rotate, which I haven't been able to do by hand, then back off just enough to get the set screw in place.

Anyone got an idea on how to tighten these parts without using large channel locks and scarring up the finish?

grumpy

On Feb 3, 2010, at 9:40 PM, Tim Olson wrote:

[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>

 I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty straightforward.  For the nut that holds the forks on,

 you torque it until it has over 22? lb-ft of breakout force

 to get it to swivel....In  practice I'd shoot for 25-35 and

 be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first

 couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.

 Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the

 bearing about as tight as you can by hand, and then that sets

 the preload.  After that you could tighten the axle bolt nuts

 to standard torque for that size nut if you wish, because

 the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.

 Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

 do not archive

 Robin Marks wrote:

> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?

> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.

> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)

> Thanks in advance,

>  

  	  Quote: 	
		  [b]

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