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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009 Posts: 792
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 1:56 am Post subject: Are home grown temperature probes feasable? |
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Not quite sure if I really want to fly my Europa or just keep finding projects to keep on adding to build time?Anyway I have a Ilec SC-7 variometer. It comes with a momentary switch to view temperature and comes with one sender. The sender is 3/16" diameter cylinder with a flat and 3/16" long. I forget exactly what the sender is called, but essentially it is a Zener diode. There is 3 legs of the sender but they cut off 1 leg and only use 2 legs. The third leg they cut off is for calibrating. You see since this was for gliders to measure outside air temperature they have a calibration inside unit. I figure could calibrate several senders so they are the same then use a rotary switch to select different locations. Senders are about a buck each. I plan to use a rotary switch with gold contacts. OK so somehow I figure it would be nice to have OAT, temperature under panel by radios to see if my mini fans help, and 3 specific under cowl temperatures. Then I got to thinking it would be nice to monitor airbox temperature on my 914 turbocharged Rotax with intercooler to make sure there are not any sour spots during operation that could be conducive carb ice like high airspeed, fine pitch and very low throttle setting, and even though I plan to start with Evans as a coolant, might as well increase the build time somemore and have ability to monitor coolant temperature. What I propose to make is an airbox probe that would begin life with a slug of hex stock brass, then machineh NPT thread to screw in an aux hole in existing airbox, make a .045" wall blind hole in center bout 1.5" long with a .1875" ID (3/16"). BTW close to dimensions of UMA sender they sell except 1/2" longer. I would insert temperature sender then fill with high temperature JB Weld. I figure that the thin wall tube would not conduct too much heat to the airbox, yet the tip would have sufficient contact area with sender to conduct airbox temperature to it. Similar probe for water temperature. Thoughts on feasability? Or not only is there something that will not work well, but I am going to send a nice chunk of brass and semiconductor through a hot running motor because the coolant sender breached and leaked out all my flamable coolant directing it right onto the hot exhaust, probably precisely towards the beyond red hot turbo housing of the turbo?All comments welcome.Thx.Ron Parigoris [quote][b]
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rampil
Joined: 04 May 2007 Posts: 870
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:38 am Post subject: Re: Are home grown temperature probes feasable? |
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Hi Ron,
Now come on, we all know you want to keep building
Dump that Evans coolant for real water!
Yes, you can make all the TC sensors you want with a small spot
welder. Performance will be highly variable until you can make the
welds perfectly uniform (for the metal-metal interface).
The best choice in your situation is to use ic temp sensors which are
factory calibrated and voltage compensated and run into a factory
built temp gauge. These sensors put out 0-5 volt so there are no issues
about microvolt voltage drops on dirty rotary switch contacts.
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_________________ Ira N224XS |
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009 Posts: 792
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:55 am Post subject: Re: Are home grown temperature probes feasable? |
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Hi Ira
The sender I want to use is I think the IC you describe,
not make my own thermocouple (have done that though with great success, see
below). JB Weld is a two part epoxy you can get from Aviation Isle at Home
Depot or most Hardware stores. TG from memory is like 550F and
it is probably as immune to fuel/alcohol as is Redux, just with a much
higher TG. I want to use the JB Weld Epoxy to mount my IC sender to the
tip of my turned brass blind holed hex. JB also makes a product called JB
KWIK and it is called 4 minute epoxy. TG perhaps is 350F going by memory
and strength is down perhaps 15% from JB Weld that has an 8 hour cure
time. It is probably fine for what I need in probe as far as strength and
TG, but it is far more viscous compared to JB Weld. If you warm JB Weld it
gets plenty runny to get it where I want it. JB KWIK has been invaluable
in build thus far.
BTW I have repaired many a thermocouple with using
my Hobart TRT 250 round wave TIG welder! My business is copiers and older
machines used thermocouples that were two dissimilar wires welded together
where the tip was pretty spherical. Anyway they were close to 8" long
and the tips would get brittle and a paper jam could break them. I used to
cut off an inch, jig together and go after with my TIG torch. If a nice
spherical ball happened it was then was good to go again. If the
ball was not nice just redid it till it was nice. I measured against a new
one and if ball was close to what i call nice (using my Mk 1 calibrated
"Eyechrometer") it was dead on compared to new unit. Used
same technique for other thermocouples, and where I needed longer wire
just bought same material and made a new one in desired length. >
Now come on, we all know you want to keep building <<You have my
number now don't you!>> <You>The best choice in your situation is to use ic temp sensors
which are factory calibrated and voltage compensated and run into a
factory built temp gauge. These sensors put out 0-5 volt so there are no
issues about microvolt voltage drops on dirty rotary switch
contacts.< I am pretty certain this is the sender that Ilec uses to
drive their digital readout, it is just a Zener diode. It has 3 wires and
one allows you to calibrate, or in my case match 6 of them. I imagine that
someone selling a sender could precalibrate it for their gauge, but Ilec
cuts off third leg and allows for internal calibration in their
unit. I will buy for a buck each and match calibrations for 6
senders, then calibrate Ilec to the now same values. Using a rotary switch
with gold contacts for such a flea sized amount of electrons flowing
through contacts, I am hopeful it will not cause problems of switching
thermocoulpe wires.
Ron Parigoris
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rampil
Joined: 04 May 2007 Posts: 870
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 9:17 am Post subject: Re: Are home grown temperature probes feasable? |
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Dont waste your time dinking with zeners!
Nice for an experiment to demonstrate principles but insane for
production use. Especially in your case where you want several, all
needing to be matched!
As I suggested for OAT, use a temp chip like for example:
http://www.analog.com/en/temperature-sensing-and-thermal-management/analog-temperature-sensors/tmp36/products/product.html
It's $0.45 in quantity! why would you even think about zeners. Jim's
spent too much time in the classroom teaching EE techs. Feasible yes,
best choice? not a chance.
PS I have 13 temp probes on my Europa
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_________________ Ira N224XS |
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009 Posts: 792
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:11 pm Post subject: Re: Are home grown temperature probes feasable? |
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Hi Ira
Wayne explained to me the devise I speak of operates or is based on a Zener, I am not exactly sure which one. It is not just an ordinary Zener but a a precision mapped thermal temperature sender and sold as such with accuracy in mapping from one to the other of perhaps 2 or 3 degrees F, and by using the trim feature you can adjust a lot closer than that. I apreciate your advise about not using a Zener. The reason for selecting this specific device is that is what the Mfg of the Ilec SC-7 vario uses to drive their thermal display.
Would you mind listing the 13 locations you have placed sensors and comment if they would be worthy of installing if you were to do it again.
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
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rampil
Joined: 04 May 2007 Posts: 870
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mcculleyja(at)starpower.n Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:06 pm Post subject: Are home grown temperature probes feasable? |
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Ron,
I'm operating a very inexpensive, minimum labor system I put together to
monitor 18 under-cowl temperatures during some 500 hours of flight
operation over the past 7 years. The cost was less than about $25 and
the accuracy is +/- 2 degrees F for temperatures less than 300F. Nothing
under the cowl aside from CHT and EGT should ever be higher than that!
Contact me directly if you want more detail.
Jim McCulley
mcculleyja(at)starpower.net
===============================================================================
rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
Quote: | Not quite sure if I really want to fly my Europa or just keep finding
projects to keep on adding to build time?
Anyway I have a Ilec SC-7 variometer. It comes with a momentary switch
to view temperature and comes with one sender. The sender is 3/16"
diameter cylinder with a flat and 3/16" long. I forget exactly what the
sender is called, but essentially it is a Zener diode. There is 3 legs
of the sender but they cut off 1 leg and only use 2 legs. The third leg
they cut off is for calibrating. You see since this was for gliders to
measure outside air temperature they have a calibration inside unit. I
figure could calibrate several senders so they are the same then use a
rotary switch to select different locations. Senders are about a buck
each. I plan to use a rotary switch with gold contacts. OK so somehow I
figure it would be nice to have OAT, temperature under panel by radios
to see if my mini fans help, and 3 specific under cowl temperatures.
Then I got to thinking it would be nice to monitor airbox temperature on
my 914 turbocharged Rotax with intercooler to make sure there are not
any sour spots during operation that could be conducive carb ice like
high airspeed, fine pitch and very low throttle setting, and even though
I plan to start with Evans as a coolant, might as well increase the
build time somemore and have ability to monitor coolant temperature.
What I propose to make is an airbox probe that would begin life with a
slug of hex stock brass, then machineh NPT thread to screw in an aux
hole in existing airbox, make a .045" wall blind hole in center bout
1.5" long with a .1875" ID (3/16"). BTW close to dimensions of UMA
sender they sell except 1/2" longer. I would insert temperature sender
then fill with high temperature JB Weld. I figure that the thin wall
tube would not conduct too much heat to the airbox, yet the tip would
have sufficient contact area with sender to conduct airbox temperature
to it. Similar probe for water temperature. Thoughts on feasability? Or
not only is there something that will not work well, but I am going to
send a nice chunk of brass and semiconductor through a hot running motor
because the coolant sender breached and leaked out all my flamable
coolant directing it right onto the hot exhaust, probably precisely
towards the beyond red hot turbo housing of the turbo?
All comments welcome.
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
===================================================================================
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