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Bob McC
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 258
Location: Toronto, ON
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 Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:12 pm Post subject: re Chemical "nut Busters" |
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Thanks for passing this along Bob.
Great research info.
I'm also happy to see that these test results bear out my own observations over many years as a mechanic restoring antique autos, that WD-40 is practically useless and a waste of money. The other product which is not on the list, but which I've found effective is called "Break Away" made by Cyclo Automotive Inc of Elkhart Indiana. It would have been interesting to see this as well as additional products on the list such as "Mouse Milk", and "Corrosion X" to further the comparisons. The major drawback of the ATF/Acetone mixture is its propensity to immediately remove paint and of course its extreme flammability. Used carefully however it's the "cats a**" so to speak.
Bob McC
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Just got this note from a cousin out in California . . .
---------------------------------------
Penetrating Oils Compared
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as
good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
------------------------------------------
Kool Data! I have a can of Kroil that's
left over from our airport days. Bought it to refurbish
some parts on our tractor/hedge-hogg. But it's
interesting to see that one can do better yet
with some off-the-shelf ingredients. Would
be interested in hearing from members on
the list who have tried the home brew.
Bob . . .
[/b] [quote][b]
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_________________
Bob McC
Falco #908
(just starting) |
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handainc(at)madisoncounty
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:00 pm Post subject: re Chemical "nut Busters" |
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Robert -
I think you are right on - I only use "the brew" on rough old rusty
machinery, or something that I am reconditioning. You can get by with
less "dangerous" solvents on other stuff. I keep various solvents on
hand, as I am sure you do to - this is the "last resort" product where
either the stuff works, or you are going to end up drilling out the
bolts or worse to salvage the parts.
M. Haught
robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca wrote:
| Quote: | *Thanks for passing this along Bob. *
*Great research info.*
*I'm also happy to see that these test results bear out my own
observations over many years as a mechanic restoring antique autos,
that WD-40 is practically useless and a waste of money. The other
product which is not on the list, but which I've found effective is
called "Break Away" made by Cyclo Automotive Inc of Elkhart Indiana.
It would have been interesting to see this as well as additional
products on the list such as "Mouse Milk", and "Corrosion X" to
further the comparisons. The major drawback of the ATF/Acetone mixture
is its propensity to immediately remove paint and of course its
extreme flammability. Used carefully however it's the "cats a**" so to
speak.*
**
*Bob McC*
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Just got this note from a cousin out in California . . .
---------------------------------------
Penetrating Oils Compared
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
about as
good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
------------------------------------------
Kool Data! I have a can of Kroil that's
left over from our airport days. Bought it to refurbish
some parts on our tractor/hedge-hogg. But it's
interesting to see that one can do better yet
with some off-the-shelf ingredients. Would
be interested in hearing from members on
the list who have tried the home brew.
Bob . . .
*
*
|
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ainut(at)hiwaay.net
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:56 pm Post subject: re Chemical "nut Busters" |
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maybe it will work this time. same problem as before.
regarding current thread:
Please do not use the acetone and *anything* in closed quarters. In
fact, if possible, have a fan blowing the fumes away from you while
using. I don't know of ATF will keep acetone from immediately drying
into the air, but don't chance it.
David
Marvin Haught wrote:
| Quote: |
Robert -
I think you are right on - I only use "the brew" on rough old rusty
machinery, or something that I am reconditioning. You can get by with
less "dangerous" solvents on other stuff. I keep various solvents on
hand, as I am sure you do to - this is the "last resort" product where
either the stuff works, or you are going to end up drilling out the
bolts or worse to salvage the parts.
M. Haught
robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca wrote:
> *Thanks for passing this along Bob. *
> *Great research info.*
> *I'm also happy to see that these test results bear out my own
> observations over many years as a mechanic restoring antique autos,
> that WD-40 is practically useless and a waste of money. The other
> product which is not on the list, but which I've found effective is
> called "Break Away" made by Cyclo Automotive Inc of Elkhart Indiana.
> It would have been interesting to see this as well as additional
> products on the list such as "Mouse Milk", and "Corrosion X" to
> further the comparisons. The major drawback of the ATF/Acetone mixture
> is its propensity to immediately remove paint and of course its
> extreme flammability. Used carefully however it's the "cats a**" so to
> speak.*
> **
> *Bob McC*
>
>
> <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>
> Just got this note from a cousin out in California . . .
> ---------------------------------------
> Penetrating Oils Compared
> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
> out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
> test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
> required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
> Penetrating oil Average load
> None ..................... 516 pounds
> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
> PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
> Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
> ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
> transmission fluid and acetone.
> Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
> one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
> use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
> about as
> good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
> ------------------------------------------
> Kool Data! I have a can of Kroil that's
> left over from our airport days. Bought it to refurbish
> some parts on our tractor/hedge-hogg. But it's
> interesting to see that one can do better yet
> with some off-the-shelf ingredients. Would
> be interested in hearing from members on
> the list who have tried the home brew.
> Bob . . .
>
>
> *
> *
>
|
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handainc(at)madisoncounty
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:16 am Post subject: re Chemical "nut Busters" |
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Very good point, and why I call it a "dangerous" mix, both to health and
what you are working on if it is painted. The good thing is the acetone
is so volatile that it evaporates quickly, but also why it is a threat
in close quarters.
M. Haught
David wrote:
| Quote: |
maybe it will work this time. same problem as before.
regarding current thread:
Please do not use the acetone and *anything* in closed quarters. In
fact, if possible, have a fan blowing the fumes away from you while
using. I don't know of ATF will keep acetone from immediately drying
into the air, but don't chance it.
David
Marvin Haught wrote:
>
> <handainc(at)madisoncounty.net>
>
> Robert -
>
> I think you are right on - I only use "the brew" on rough old rusty
> machinery, or something that I am reconditioning. You can get by with
> less "dangerous" solvents on other stuff. I keep various solvents on
> hand, as I am sure you do to - this is the "last resort" product where
> either the stuff works, or you are going to end up drilling out the
> bolts or worse to salvage the parts.
>
> M. Haught
> robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca wrote:
>
>> *Thanks for passing this along Bob. *
>> *Great research info.*
>> *I'm also happy to see that these test results bear out my own
>> observations over many years as a mechanic restoring antique autos,
>> that WD-40 is practically useless and a waste of money. The other
>> product which is not on the list, but which I've found effective is
>> called "Break Away" made by Cyclo Automotive Inc of Elkhart Indiana.
>> It would have been interesting to see this as well as additional
>> products on the list such as "Mouse Milk", and "Corrosion X" to
>> further the comparisons. The major drawback of the ATF/Acetone mixture
>> is its propensity to immediately remove paint and of course its
>> extreme flammability. Used carefully however it's the "cats a**" so to
>> speak.*
>> **
>> *Bob McC*
>>
>>
>> <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> Just got this note from a cousin out in California . . .
>> ---------------------------------------
>> Penetrating Oils Compared
>> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
>> out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a
>> subjective
>> test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
>> required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
>> Penetrating oil Average load
>> None ..................... 516 pounds
>> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
>> PB Blaster ..............214 pounds
>> Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
>> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
>> ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds
>> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
>> transmission fluid and acetone.
>> Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
>> one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and
>> all now
>> use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
>> about as
>> good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
>> ------------------------------------------
>> Kool Data! I have a can of Kroil that's
>> left over from our airport days. Bought it to refurbish
>> some parts on our tractor/hedge-hogg. But it's
>> interesting to see that one can do better yet
>> with some off-the-shelf ingredients. Would
>> be interested in hearing from members on
>> the list who have tried the home brew.
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
|
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mrspudandcompany(at)veriz
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:26 am Post subject: re Chemical "nut Busters" |
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The good thing is the acetone
is so volatile that it evaporates quickly, but also why it is a threat
in close quarters.
M. Haught
Two reasons it is a threat in close quarters: 1. It is very
flammable. 2. It is absorbed into your body very readily through the skin
and also through the lungs. Small amounts are not considered very harmful
but continued exposure can be. Read the MSDS.
Roger
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