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ron.mcgann(at)baesystems. Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 3:21 am Post subject: Rear floor pans |
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Hi all,
Listers have previously reported some issues with 'impossible rivets' on the rear floor pans - but I can't even get to that point. I am having some trouble fitting the F-1016C rear floor pans. It seems a fair bit of force is required to insert these panels to get the flanges past the seat belt attachand point. Once they are in place, there does not appear to be any way that they will come out - especially if there are any shop heads on the F1005A assembly. Has anyone else had trouble here? Is there a trick to inserting/removing these?
thanks in advance
Ron
#187
fuse, finishing on the way.
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 3:39 am Post subject: Rear floor pans |
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I can only tell you that I had the same problems. It has been long
and I remember that I had to man-handle the thing to get it in. I
can't tell you the installtion sequence since I was piXXed at the
time!
Do not archive
On 4/19/06, McGANN, Ron <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> wrote:
Quote: | Hi all,
Listers have previously reported some issues with 'impossible rivets' on the rear floor pans - but I can't even get to that point. I am having some trouble fitting the F-1016C rear floor pans. It seems a fair bit of force is required to insert these panels to get the flanges past the seat belt attachand point. Once they are in place, there does not appear to be any way that they will come out - especially if there are any shop heads on the F1005A assembly. Has anyone else had trouble here? Is there a trick to inserting/removing these?
thanks in advance
Ron
#187
fuse, finishing on the way.
|
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seipel(at)seznam.cz Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:10 am Post subject: Rear floor pans |
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Just did those the other day. The key is to go slowly to avoid bending
them. If possible, have a helper to force apart the side ribs so you
can get the floor pans past the seatbelt anchors. To get them out, I
put cleco's into the #19 nutplate holes, and lifted it up enough to get
several into the #30 holes. I took some popsicle sticks and ground the
ends to make little wedges and used them along the sides and back to
help get the floor pan past the rivets and ribs.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
McGANN wrote:
Quote: | Hi all,
Listers have previously reported some issues with 'impossible rivets' on the rear floor pans - but I can't even get to that point. I am having some trouble fitting the F-1016C rear floor pans. It seems a fair bit of force is required to insert these panels to get the flanges past the seat belt attachand point. Once they are in place, there does not appear to be any way that they will come out - especially if there are any shop heads on the F1005A assembly. Has anyone else had trouble here? Is there a trick to inserting/removing these?
thanks in advance
Ron
#187
fuse, finishing on the way.
|
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dlm46007(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:40 am Post subject: Rear floor pans |
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they lift out with difficulty from the rear; use several pieces of .020
aluminum strips so that the rear flange slip over the rear spar forward
edge. Make sure you pop the holes for the forward flange through the main
spar web before removing them now; that way you will be able to clean and
deburr before final rear floor installation.
---
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jesse(at)itecusa.org Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:10 am Post subject: Rear floor pans |
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For those who aren't there yet, it wouldn't hurt to plan ahead on these. We
put them in and drilled the holes when we were clecoing the bottom skins, so
it was easy to get them out by taking the bottom skin off. Then, when you
get to the point where you need to put them in, you won't have to take them
out again, just drop (read - carefully force) them in and rivet them.
--
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